What did you mod today?

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forsh
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contactcr wrote:
FW3A w/ 1x Osram Red Flat (as secondary) and 2x Samsung LH351D (as primary) flashed with Anduril 2

Not sure what to think of this one. I don’t like the Mountain PCB with the XQ-E pads for secondary because it makes a hideous looking rorschach test beam (I think it’s a bat). This is definitely better. The Osram beam is pretty even, albeit a little square up close. This is with 10511. The white LH351D is fine with only two, looks round except for the usual spikey edges all triples have. Also wanted to give Anduril 2 a try since I had to reflash this thing anyways, two birds one stone. May try XP-E2 far red to see what a domed beam looks like if I ever take it apart again.


Hideous test setup. 18650 battery holder, separate e switch, alligator clips, etc.

1×7135 trace cut and negative secondary wire (in orange):

MCPCB mods. 2x traces cut and LEDs reversed to create a second negative pad for Osram and common positive for everything else. (keep in mind this will be different for ALL other boards besides LED4Power)

Always clean up

Wired

Hex file with new ramp table and latest (as of today) Anduril 2: google drive link



special thanks to staticx57(?)

my next project, this is a perfect walktrough!!!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/163189738353433/?ref=share
Join my Facebook FW3/4/1 selling and buying group guys

gchart
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Scallywag wrote:
… Wuben and Skilhunt keep getting it wrong, although I think Skilhunt is finally getting better on some recent models. Wuben even has two-switch models they couldn’t get right!

I hate to derail this thread into a UI discuss, but as much as I love my Wuben TO50R, I don’t pick it up as much as I should because it always takes me a while to remember how to use it. Hold down this button? Nope. Click that one? Nope. Double click the first one? Nope. Argh!

WallKiller
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I made custom driver for EDC05. It offers linear 3.2A, Anduril2, RGB switch.

contactcr
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3.2A linear in a AA sized host w/ Anduril2 is not something you just post a video about. This is straight up the pinnacle of modding for this light/size and needs more details Smile

edit; I left it unspoken but lets just put it out there. WELL DONE!

gchart
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Very nice!

Reminds me… I should go back and redo my Utorch UT01 3 amp linear driver to use the attiny1616 so I can load Anduril2 on it.

WallKiller
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Oh, so you made ut1 with anduril? Can you give me some link on PM?

MascaratumB
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You guys are making me jealous Crying

I have a Manker E11 that could get one of those drivers Innocent
Love that light, but the UI is not what I’d desire. But I have no skills to do something similar or whatsoever… Facepalm

WallKiller: pretty cool Cool

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It is possible to get hex file to fw3a from you (Contactcr)? I can’t send you PM (some BLF problems).
And i’ve got some attiny question to you (gchart) can you write me an email, because of this problems?

This is my email: adrian.gwis@gmail.com

gchart
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The text of that post is a link to the detailed post including an Oshpark link. Hit me up on PM if you want.

Honestly, now that I modded the Sofirn SP10S with Anduril2 and it still retains AA boost functionality, it’s become my go-to AA/14500 light.

MascaratumB
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gchart wrote:
The text of that post is a link to the detailed post including an Oshpark link. Hit me up on PM if you want.

Honestly, now that I modded the Sofirn SP10S with Anduril2 and it still retains AA boost functionality, it’s become my go-to AA/14500 light.


Hopefully it will revert in favour of the SP10S BLF Edition, which I thank Hat Party
contactcr
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The hex file link was in the post between the video and the last pic! Here: google drive link

Or if you want to compile it yourself, the ramp tables: https://pastebin.com/0Uw2134S

WallKiller
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Thank you so much.

Geuzzz
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jon_slider wrote:
Geuzzz wrote:
Jetbeam TCR-1

Triple 219b sw35 9080.



inspired by you..
triple mod done by moderator007, my favorite SuperHero

Look what Kal-El just flew in with, from Smallville:

Jetbeam TCR-1 triple dedome LH351D 3500k
400 lumens on 16340

Love it!:-)

Looks just like the golden hour at sunset.

Wow, nice one. And nice job moderator007. I use it every day as my bedside light. Awesome light.

Bourbon Guy
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Fet+1 into a Wuben E05 with a 4000k SST20. I sanded down a Mountain Electronics e-switch board and 3D printed a spacer that supports the switch. The switch board is then epoxied to the spacer. Really liking this one. I’ll be building a couple more.

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Now there’s thinking outside the box on tricky switch situations! Nice job. I might have to employ that trick sometime.

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Geuzzz wrote:
Wow, nice one. And nice job moderator007. I use it every day as my bedside light. Awesome light.

loving the warm floody stepless rotary

lubricated control ring, and did lots of twists
got the dial turning nice and smooth, no more gritty Ti

added CRX glow gasket

added Sapphire Lens Love
(no blue AR coating)

great Golden Hour light!

Bourbon Guy
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I got a attiny 412 swapped on to one of the convoy t2 boost drivers I have been messing with. Huge thanks to gchart for sharing his clicky firmware. I tweaked it to pwm on pin PA2 to match the layout of the convoy driver and I increased the PWM frequency as that allows for a lower low mode on these drivers. The OTC is across pins 7 and 8.

After the pic was taken I put a jumper across the 0.2 ohm resistor that sits between the fet and led -.

With the resistor jumper in place I took current measurements at the LED (nichia 319) and got 1.8 mA on low and 1.01 A on high. I used a cheap meter with standard leads so actual current in normal use is probably slightly higher. Freshly charged energizer NiMH.

gchart
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Awesome!! Nice job Beer

Welcome to the AVR 1-Series club. Glad to have a another member on board. May I ask, which programmer did you use? And let me know if you think there is anything I should add to my guide thread.

Bourbon Guy
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I used the 416 xplained nano board.

Bourbon Guy
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Swapped to a LH351D 5000k 90 cri. Measured at the led with the same crappy setup I get 2 mA on low and 1.2 A on high but drops quickly. I’ll do some torture testing to see if the bypassed resistor becomes a problem but I think it’s excellent output for a single AA boost driver.

gchart wrote:
Awesome!! Nice job Beer

Welcome to the AVR 1-Series club. Glad to have a another member on board. May I ask, which programmer did you use? And let me know if you think there is anything I should add to my guide thread.

I have some suggestions and questions. I’ll be PMing you when I have some more time. Thanks again!

Unheard
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Something simple:

Convoy C8, Kaidomain 5A driver H17A, Osram KW CSLNM1.TG 6N-ebzB46-65 White 5600K – 6000K

I took measurements:

Astrolux FT03/SST40@5000K/HLY-26650/5000 mAh – 15940 lx @4m – 255040 cd – 1010 m

Convoy C8/Sofirn unprotected 18650/3000 mAh – 15000 lx @4m – 240000 cd – 980 m

Springs are not bridged (tho the Astrolux has double springs) and I cannot measure current.

Both values appear a little high. Measured distance precisely and intensity with a Benetech GM1020.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

Bourbon Guy
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I just did a Wuben E05 with a fet+1, but I’ve been on a real boost driver kick lately. This is a E05 with one of the red convoy T2 boost drivers I have been experimenting with recently. A lot of the basic boost drivers you can buy are based on the PAM 2803 boost controller which lists a quiescent current of 1-3 mA. I measured a couple myself and they were both right at 2 mA. That’s a bit to high for a AA e-switch light IMO. The convoy driver uses a different boost controller and what I discovered is that ~5 seconds after power is applied the parasitic current drops to ~0.1 mA with a 14500 and around .45 mA with a NiMH. That’s not incredibly low but it’s actually lower than some production lights I’ve seen measured, and plenty good enough for me. Fully charged to fully discharged eneloop would take around 6 months if my math is right.

I recycled my filed switch board with 3d printed spacer technique for this one. I used a attiny85 rotated 180 degrees with the PWM trace cut and a jumper to the PWM pin on the attiny85. Switch connections were made directly to the legs on the attiny. I used Narsil, green switch LED’s and a LH351D 5000k 90cri.

MascaratumB
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You’re “killing” me with these AA lights mods Shocked
I’am an AA/14500 fan, but there is no single “stock” UI that makes my day yet (well, the Skilhunt M150 V2, eventually), and you getting all these done Shocked

Sofirn gotta worry up that SP10S BLF special Innocent

id30209
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I have swaped emitter and optic in Olight Warrior Mini.

Now using 219C 5700K 90CRI on Sofirn C10S MCPCB and Yaijamei 10deg optic

 

Too tired to post photos so here’s the link to the gallery

https://imgur.com/a/Ll5ZUc0

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Chatika vas Paus
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Nice! I am always impressed with the modified Olights. My only Olight is in parts for almost a year. Good job!

But… you replaced copper mcpcb with aluminum? Why?

Btw.
It’s lh351d not 219c.

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Chatika vas Paus wrote:
Nice! I am always impressed with the modified Olights. My only Olight is in parts for almost a year. Good job! But... you replaced copper mcpcb with aluminum? Why? Btw. It's lh351d not 219c.

 

I didn’t took photos before assembly.

Long story short, board in photos and 351 were testbed. When emitter turned angry blue on turbo i realized it needs Cu board.

So i took one from SP10S which is perfect fit BTW and after test with 351D i went with 219C. 
Warrior Mini has 0.7A on high and around 3A on turbo so big fat 351D beam loose a lot on 0.7A. That’s the reason i choose narrower 219C

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

gchart
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An update on my Sofirn SP10S with Anduril2 via an attiny1616 swap. My original board used an airwire because I wasn’t paying attention when I picked the pins and I used and ADC1 pin instead of an ADC0 pin (and coding around it would have been a pain). So… new board with no airwires. I also went with the 0.8mm Oshpark service. It seems like the castellations rip off a bit easier, so you’ve gotta be careful with that.

Disassembled

Put back together again

Microa
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Do you mean that we should use PB0, PB1 or PB4, PB5 for TCA0 ?

gchart
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I was talking more about which ADC pins to use. The attiny1616 has two ADC peripherals: ADC0 and ADC1. The temperature sensor is built into ADC0 and FSM (Anduril’s base) is designed to use just the one ADC. So if you need an ADC pin for reading voltage, I’d pick one on ADC0.

If there’s to be such a thing as a “standard” attiny1616 layout for Anduril, I’ve proposed this, at least for easily replacing the t85 on existing drivers. Deviations are fine, but these should work well:

  • eSwitch: PA5
  • Aux LED: PB5
  • PWM FET: PB0 (TCA0 WO0)
  • PWM 1×7135: PB1 (TCA0 WO1)
  • Voltage: VCC (or an ADC0 pin)

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First mod today was to build my long awaited S2+ triple. I bought a copper pill many years ago from a fellow BLF member. The pill came from Russia. Have had this a long time and forgot all about it, but found it before Christmas. So I order up a triple 20mm noctigon from Hank at the Int’l Outdoor store, complete with some 4000k 95CRI SST-20’s. And the optic.

Also decided to go for the BLF A6/DD17 driver and a new grey S2+ host.

First snag, at some point Convoy must have changed the threads in the S2+ as the copper pill would not screw into the new S2+, so I stripped down a very early red S2+ and used that instead.

Quite pleased with the result.

I have a triple XP-G2 in my BLF Ti, although that is running a Qlite driver. The tint on the SST-20’s is nice, but when you compare to the XP-G2’s you can see how blue the 4000k is.

The DD17 driver works well with the SST-20’s and Samsung 30Q. Despite offering a bigger hotspot than the XP-G2’s, the higher output modes give the SST-20’s more throw and output.

Also modded a Convoy C8. This is an old host with the removable pill. It was running a Nichia219B direct drive. But replaced with an Osram W1 and 5 amp 4 mode driver. I only have an OP reflector, but the beam and throw still look pretty impressive. Need to test it a bit more though.

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