What did you mod today?

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CNCman
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Nothing like a Successful mod ‘Skylight’ Thumbs Up Well planned and executed. Wink

Rayoui
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Today I swapped some 219b sw40 into an older D4v2 that had some pretty green SST20’s in it prior. It was sitting around for quite a while because I really didn’t want to mess with those tiny little aux wires. Well, I’m not embarrassed to admit that this task was definitely beyond my comfortable soldering skill level.

I made a decent mess of the wires but miraculously everything seems to be working (for now). We’ll see how long it lasts before the damaged wire insulators give up the ghost and the whole thing shorts and explodes.

Oh and I flashed the 219 version of Anduril 2 while I was at it.

tamadedan
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Only pushing 5.6v versus the expected 14.4v off bench power. Same issue off 8xM35A 4S2P. Cells test good. Wires test good. Only leaves the PCB as the issue…

TimMc
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Skilhunt M150 V2 with Nichia 219B sw45k D220 R9080

Skilhunt M150 V2 with Nichia 219B sw45k D220 R9080

Pre-swap:

View post on imgur.com

Skilhunt M150 V2 LH351D (level 2), ReyLight Pineapple Mini 219B D220 (2%), Wurkkos WK01 219B D200 (low)
Sari33
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Any know how transform led switch on a Classic On/off without any parasitic current?
.

gchart
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You can remove (de-solder) the resistors, the LEDs, or both (on each side). You’ll be left with a “normal” (non-illuminated) switch with no parasitic drain.

Sari33
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gchart wrote:
You can remove (de-solder) the resistors, the LEDs, or both (on each side). You’ll be left with a “normal” (non-illuminated) switch with no parasitic drain.

Thanks
I will try to desolder only the Leds on each side
What Happen if remains a solder bridge on Leds contacts?
Flashlight (S2+ AMC 7135 driver)
Rat
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Nothing because I do not know what I am doing Facepalm HELP

thx

gchart
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Sari33 wrote:

Thanks
I will try to desolder only the Leds on each side
What Happen if remains a solder bridge on Leds contacts?
Flashlight (S2+ AMC 7135 driver)

Bad parasitic drain. You’ll have power flowing through the resistors that are left. You’re just looking to destroy that current path.
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Why do it the hard way? Rather than desoldering anything, why not just take a razor or Xacto blade and cut the bridge between LED and resistor?

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

gchart
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Also very possible. I’m a bit more deft with a soldering iron. I’m liable to draw blood with a razor blade!

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Nah. If it’s just the trace, it’s an easy cut. If there’s a huge blob of solder bridging the components right over it, it takes a bit more effort but still pretty easy. Way easier than risking cooking a switch by hitting it with a soldering iron.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

Yokiamy
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With my Tool i did remove the LEDs next to the switch by applying some brute force with a small screwdriver Innocent

id30209
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Tryed swapping emitter on Zebralight SC5w II but one of inductors peeled off. Thx to Loneocean i found exact one and this night surgery was succesfull.

New emitter is dedommed 351D 5000K and beam improved drastically (stock was XPL2)

 


WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

gchart
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Good save on the ZL! That’s got to be one of the most haphazard driver layouts I’ve ever seen.

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gchart wrote:
Good save on the ZL! That's got to be one of the most haphazard driver layouts I've ever seen.

Thx gchart!

Although ZL driver layout is a modder nightmare it’s still a joy working on it.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Clayson
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Hello, I finally made the first modification to my BLF Q8.

Simple thing, I just went around the springs. I thought it was going to improve 10 or 15% but I didn’t notice any difference.

Is it the batteries? I use 3000 mah Sofirn batteries but I don’t know what the discharge is. I’m hoping to get Samsung 20A Q30 batteries. I imagine the result will be visible.

Could someone tell me the next simple change I could make?

Generic Zoomie Xml LED
Nitecore NU 17
Thorfire Q8

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Been modding some magnetic ring lights in recent weeks. None of these are pocket rockets compared to modern lights but they are fun to mod:

  • Sunwayman V11R camo – currently modded into a triple using Carclo 10507 optic and 3x LH351D Dog Farts (2× 4000K and 1× 5000K). Soooo floody and not very bright. Thinking of dedoming one or more of the emitters for a bit more punch. Or maybe going back to a single emitter. The ring was loose so I fixed it by adding a thin plastic spacer and relubing the ring with high vacuum grease. Also replaced the stock switch with metal titanium one. Switch electronics replaced with Steve Ku electronic switch module. Also added extra spring and tuned the switch so it won’t switch on accidentally.
  • Jetbeam TCR-01 – now sporting 5000K neutral white LH351D Dog Farts. Also added Lee Zircon minus-green 805 filter. Beam looks decent. Nice tint, but still cooler than what I’m used to.
  • Nitecore SRT-3 Defender – picked one of these up on sale. Fantastic build quality, but as an 8-year old relatively low-powered light it lacks some modern features. For example, the star is relatively thin and small and is aluminum. Stock cool-white XML2 emitter was too dim and too cool for me. I replaced it with a 5000K neutral white SST-40 reflowed onto the stock star. This one was tricky to reflow since the red-blue aux LED was mounted on a separate donut shaped board that sat on top of the main star. There are 4 or 5 tiny wires connecting the underside of the aux board to the driver and those wires did not seem long enough to remove the aux board. There was no way I wanted to try desoldering those tiny wires. I ended up tilting up the aux board then reaching through the center of the donut with my iron to desolder the main LED wires.

Build quality of the SRT-3 feels excellent. It feels great in the hand and works well with a cigar grip. Feels higher quality than the Sunwayman or aluminum Jetbeam. Downside is its huge. Even though it uses a 16340 it is actually bigger than a number of 18650 lights I own.

  • Sunwayman V11R black. Picked this up from Amazon last year on clearance. Replaced the stock rubber switch boot with the stock steel switch button that came with the light. Also swapped out the cool white XML2 for a neutral white SST-40.
Scallywag
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Clayson wrote:
Hello, I finally made the first modification to my BLF Q8. Simple thing, I just went around the springs. I thought it was going to improve 10 or 15% but I didn't notice any difference. Is it the batteries? I use 3000 mah Sofirn batteries but I don't know what the discharge is. I'm hoping to get Samsung 20A Q30 batteries. I imagine the result will be visible. Could someone tell me the next simple change I could make?

 

From what I can recall, replacing the screws with brass (or maybe brass-coated? I can't recall for sure) screws shows some improvement. I'm referring to the screws that attach the tail-spring board.

JaredM
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Scallywag wrote:

Clayson wrote:
Hello, I finally made the first modification to my BLF Q8. Simple thing, I just went around the springs. I thought it was going to improve 10 or 15% but I didn’t notice any difference. Is it the batteries? I use 3000 mah Sofirn batteries but I don’t know what the discharge is. I’m hoping to get Samsung 20A Q30 batteries. I imagine the result will be visible. Could someone tell me the next simple change I could make?

 


From what I can recall, replacing the screws with brass (or maybe brass-coated? I can’t recall for sure) screws shows some improvement. I’m referring to the screws that attach the tail-spring board.

Because of how Clayson soldered the bypasses to the contact area of the pcb, brass screws likely won’t provide a measurable improvement. I would still recommend them however in conjunction with a slight adjustment of your mod.

I’d recommend moving your solder point slightly towards the center by scraping off some of the masking and allowing the pcb to sit flush with the body tube again. Contact resistance is now likely your largest ohmic contributor at this point. Other things to improve that would be adding Ag/Au plated contact pads to the springs. Anything over 50% IACS and flat should be better/more stable in the long run vs a solder blob, especially if there is lingering flux residue on the contact points. I’ll often take a fine flat file and smooth out solder in cases that I don’t add an additional interface material.

The biggest easy improvement I think you could get in terms of output would be using a 25S/H26 cell.

I don’t know what emitters you have in your Q8 (XPL?), but a swap to something low Vf like XPL2, SST40, Luxeon V, XHP50.2 3V could really bump the current up.

Overall though, I think it’s important to realize that the visual differences between 4000 and 5000 lumens is so small, that it’s hard to tell except in back to back comparisons.

mountainair26
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I was making a convoy s2+ triple with some SST-20-DR's with Mtn triple mcpcb soldered to one of kiribaru's copper spacer and pill combos. After relflow, I was soldering the leads from the Convoy 5A driver, (this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32989372464.html) and accidentally touched one of the SST-20 domes with my iron apparently because 2/3 of it was hazy. It was the top center one in the picture below.

Well, when I touched the dome with an alcohol covered q-tip just to see if it would "buff out" somehow, the dome came right off cleanly. This is unlike what I've heard happens with hot dedoming white sst-20's, which need to be sliced instead of de-domed. I tested with multimeter and it lit up just like the two still left with domes intact, so I heated up the pill again slightly, not enough to flow solder, and then the other two domes just came off easily with tweezers.

Anyway, I tested all the LEDs with the multimeter again, finished building the pill, cleaned everything etc, and the de-domed red sst-20's worked fine. I don't have a domed version to compare to in terms of beam or increased throw/decreased lumens. It's still very floody with carclo narrow spot optics as a small triple. But, FYI, I found out by accident that red SST-20's can be completely de-domed with heat apparently.

I had to remove tiny bits of dome around the sides of the emitter surface with tweezers, toothpicks and compressed air after I took this picture being careful not go near the bond wires: 

sst-20-dr red accidental dedome

But, it was relatively simple once I realized my accident turned out to be non-fatal to the leds and potentially (?) increased throw a little. I mean, it has to since the surface of the led is smaller, right? I compared to a couple photo red xp-e2 lights I built and the red color was exactly the same to the eye, so I don't think it messed with that.

Also, at the tail on a rested but fully charged cell with that convoy driver, I got around 7.5A draw, so definitely pushing it to the limit on turbo.

I have one click set at 1%, second mode around 1.5 A, and third mode is full out 7.5, but I won't push it on third mode often because I know that's a lot of amps for red leds in a small light, and it's kind of overkill. 

Nice thing about that driver is you can ramp it up to whatever you want, so I'll probably make the third and highest level something like 5A eventually or 60-70% of max because 7.5A is probably passed the point of diminishing returns. Also, I tried the hot de-dome a white sst-20 shortly after for a t20 zoomie, and the dome wouldn't budge at all like the red ones did so easily. So, I sliced it with a razor lubed with silicone and a washer:

 

Also good to know, the Sofirn 19mm mcpcb fits the T20 pill almost perfectly so you don't have to use a 16mm or sand down a 20mm.

Pill after soldering in driver and coloring everything black with sharpie as best I could for now, still purple where sharpie hadn't dried yet. Might go back and do matte thermal paint because the beam still has small artifacts or sand the surface of the led with 5000 grit. Any suggestions on perfecting an aspheric beam would be appreciated:

Sharpie Hadn't Completely dried yet and looks purple, I went back over the light parts, but still not a perfect beam yet.

Firelight2
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Repaired my broken modded DQQ Tiny III 18650.

I had converted it to a 3 amp triple emitter light 4 or 5 years ago. But then a couple years ago I decided to replace the driver I had in it with one with Emisar D4 ramping IOS firmware from Mountain Electronics.

Unfortunately, the mod failed to work properly. Even when the light was off, the LEDs stayed lit at a very low level. I finally gave up and put the mod aside for the last couple years.

Last night I took another stab at it. Remembered that the symptom I was experiencing of the light not quite turning off could be that the 7135 chip was bad. I swapped in a new one and now it works fine.

Nice light. A true pocket rocket with enormous punch on turbo and smaller than an FW3A. It’s so tiny! It’s just a bit bigger than a Sunwayman V11R (though it is heavier with battery installed due to heavier battery and steel bezel). With the new driver I no longer have to worry about the light overheating and desoldering the leadwires from the star.

Back when I started this mod, the best firmware I could get on a driver was RampingIOS. But things have moved on. Now I prefer Anduril. Cool Next mod might be to disassemble it and reflash the star.

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Some classic modding is happening in this thread, even a T20 mod, haven’t seen that one modded for years! Thumbs Up

Today I modded my GT Nano with a new led. In fact I ruined what the Nano is famous for: the throw went down from 21 kcd to 7 kcd after the mod. Still this is how I want my Nano to be. I ordered a 10440 tube for the Nano (was shipped out today Party ), so that will complete the mod.

I have plenty cool lights with amazing throw that have the Osram KW CSLNM1-TG, so although the Nano does amaze, I have always wanted a throwy AAA size light with a great tint. So the led was swapped with a sliced 4000K SST-20 ( it had supposedly a JA3 tint bin before the slicing).

This was not straightforward because the SST-20 is 3535 size while the stock led is 3030 size. I decided on a new MCPCB, a 10mm DTP copper board that I bought long ago from vestureofblood’s shop. The edge needed trimming slightly to 9.5mm diameter with the disc-sander to fit in the slot in the shelf in the flashlight head. The board is a bit thicker than stock but I needed that extra height because the reflector hole was reamed and the reflector became a tiny bit shorter because of that.

As said I reamed the reflector to fit a 3535 center piece for 6.5mm hole. The reaming was not strictly needed because the stock reflector did fit a “butterfly” type of 3535 center piece but it had a bit of wiggle room so the led would not be really centered and I hate that. So I went for the gamble of reaming and hoping the 6.5mm center piece would fit before too much of the reflector was removed and it became too short with the led out of focus. I was lucky, the reflector was kept long enough and the focusing of the led appeared perfect, the hotspot is as crisp as it gets LOL

The outer edge of the center piece was trimmed a bit to make room for the solder blobs of the led wires.

Although everything was rather tiny, I did not destroy any crucial parts luckily and the mod was succesfully finished. The light is still pleasantly throwy, although it has not the same wow-factor of the stock light, and the tint turned out as nice as I hoped: the CCT is around 3750K, at medium setting CRI is 98, with 0.0005 duv it is right on the BBL, at turbo the CRI is still 95, with duv -0.0011.

Now wait for the 10440 tube to finish it, not only will it make the light look much better, the 10440 battery will get a bit more lumens out of the SST20 too, the 220 lumen it does now corresponds to about 1A, the 10440 battery will definitely do better than that.

NeutralFan
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mountainair26 wrote:

Sharpie Hadn't Completely dried yet and looks purple, I went back over the light parts, but still not a perfect beam yet.

Dang, that is nasty looking! Glad that it was a Sharpie and not an over cooked MCPCB.

And interesting how easy it is to de-dome a red SST-20.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

mountainair26
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Yeah, Neutralfan, the pic looks a lot worse than real life since it's un-dried black sharpie ink right after I tried to color the board black. I probably didn't get it right since there are still wrings and weird tint shifts in the beam possibly from reflections. 

 

@Djozz, my t20 mod isn't exactly perfect so far. Any suggestions are appreciated, here's the problem:

I first had an XPL-HI in there, and there was some weird tint shift across zoom and flood. Fully zoomed in the center of the LED die was white hot, while the outside of the spot-beam had the weird cree tint shift and warmer tint. Then I tried 90 CRI 4000k XP-G3 in there (not sliced) and the classic cree green/weird tint shift in full zoom mode came out again with a weird, much cooler tint center. I tried this led because of some of your old posts from 5 years ago:

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/983941#comment-983941

https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/981473#comment-981473

Now, with the sliced SST-20 in there, I have a weird beam that my phone camera can't really capture. Zoomed in, it looks like there is a white hot center beam, a small circle around the center where no light is present, and then some weird off-colored corona and rings around the led-shaped center. The center of the beam, which I crudely outlined in the photo below, is a perfect shaped of the led surface, like in most zoomies, but the tint is much colder than it should be, with rings all around it. Here are some pictures, but like I said, the camera does not at all capture what the eye sees in real life:

 

Any clue how to correct this, anyone? I don't know if it's an issue of stray reflections inside the lens from MCPCB and pill etc. I believe the led board is at the correct height and focus, since it's sitting on the same shelf as the original led in the same spot, only with a 3mm wider board. Should covering the led and painting everything else with matte black paint solve it? Maybe I have a bad T20 lens since three different leds gave me similar bad results?

 

Here's another where I drew a line indicting the space with not light at all, again the center is shaped like the emitter, which the picture does not show at all. I tried different modes and all sorts of things but nothing would capture the real beam as seen in person.

 

 

Basically, my goal is a T20 with a warm tint that doesn't have a white hot center or crazy rings around it. I prefer 3535 footprint since I soldered that mcpcb in, but I could easily get it out if there's better emitter for zoomies. CRI doesn't really matter as long as the tint is on the warmer side, 4k or a little less. I know there are much better hosts or completed lights out there for $30, but I have trouble getting rid of old hosts and prefer to mod them even though getting a convoy z1 or something like that is probably a better idea. Anyway, thanks for any suggestions.

 

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Simple mod by BLF standards. Added GITD accents to an IF25A. Need to add more though, fades pretty quickly, but doesn’t go completely dim. Nice with night adapted vision.

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Swapped a 2700k LH351D into a cheap zoomie my parents have because my mom doesn’t like cool “blue” tints. I did it more to play around with my new iron than anything. The light is fed off 3 aaas but I changed one of the aaas for a 10440 so the light is running 6v+ instead of the usual 4v Evil Dunno what the driver is because it’s soldered to the pill. These aaas probably can’t provide enough current and dip far below 6v when the current is requested

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Sunnysunsun wrote:
Swapped a 2700k LH351D into a cheap zoomie my parents have because my mom doesn’t like cool “blue” tints. I did it more to play around with my new iron than anything. The light is fed off 3 aaas but I changed one of the aaas for a 10440 so the light is running 6v+ instead of the usual 4v Evil Dunno what the driver is because it’s soldered to the pill. These aaas probably can’t provide enough current and dip far below 6v when the current is requested

Don’t mix chemistries like that. It’s going to run your AAA’s super low and could cause them to leak or bulge.

id30209
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haven’t post anything for a while.

Been busy with all kind of mods.

So, first one...

ZL SC5w II, XPL emitter swapped with sliced dogfart 5000K. 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

Scallywag
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id30209 wrote:

haven’t post anything for a while.


Been busy with all kind of mods.


So, first one…


ZL SC5w II, XPL emitter swapped with sliced dogfart 5000K. 







I may have seen your reddit post Wink
Looks great!

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