What did you mod today?

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pinkpanda3310
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I never heard of anyone buffing the anodising before… Depending on usage I’m guessing the wax would wear off pretty easily?? Kinda defeats the purpose of using titanium Big Smile

Josh77
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Rdubya18 wrote:
I modded this …

into this

!{width:77%}https://i.imgur.com/8G3QniD.jpg!

That’s insane, like how you came up with this idea

If you can`t change the situation - change your reaction.

e1000
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A few years ago, I started down the journey of learning to mod flashlights not just as a flashlight hobby, but also to develop my soldering and small electronics skills.

Not a flashlight, but all of those skills have recently helped me complete a very fun mod. The recent Game and Watch only comes with 3 embedded games, one of which simulates a simple LCD juggling game. Very limited from the factory, it only comes with a 1MB storage flash and no external connectivity, the USB-C port isn’t even connected to data.

For the mod below, you have to solder debugging pin headers, use an external flash board similar to what we use for flashlight MCU’s, and finally, de-solder the existing 1MB flash storage and replace it with something larger, in my case I used a 16MB chip. After it’s all complete, I now have over 50 NES and GameBoy games in addition to the factory firmware.

gchart
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Good work on that! I don’t really get into gaming too much… I didn’t even know these existed. I’m guessing Nintendo is just continuing to ride their trend of releasing limited retro stuff like the mini NES and SNES. Reminds me of a portable version of my RetroPie setup.

e1000
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gchart wrote:
Good work on that! I don’t really get into gaming too much… I didn’t even know these existed. I’m guessing Nintendo is just continuing to ride their trend of releasing limited retro stuff like the mini NES and SNES. Reminds me of a portable version of my RetroPie setup.

Absolutely, they’re incredibly good at milking every penny out of their successful franchises, but here I am buying into it. LOL! Grossly overpriced compared to the small army of portable emulation handhelds out of China these days, but there was something about a N branded device i couldn’t resist. Add to it that almost immediately there was a challenge factor of a fairly difficult mod and I was hooked.

Artiet59
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Put 3 x XPL-Hi 4000k from kaidoman in my brass fw3a. Theyre a little greener then the 5d xpl-hi, but they are rosier then JA3 sst20 4000k. Defintely very happy with them since it had 6500k xpl-hi bc it was all i could get at NG, because i wanted the brass.

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Okay, so I didn’t mod it today, but a long time ago – however I finally own a luxmeter. It’s a LX1330B so it shouldn’t bee too inaccurate.

I measured 157(*100) at 5m, which according to my math comes out to 392,500 cd? From searching for my post on the mod, I saw someone mention Z1s with W1s get 375-400kcd so that seems about right. I’m quite pleased with myself!

Anyway it’s a good start. But, I will have to go outdoors if my next build goes as planned, because the meter maxes out at below 2.5mcd…

agTac D25C TiL6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special |

djozz
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I live in a small city appartment but there is one line (from the windowsill in the living room through the hall onto the front door) that allows a measurement at 13.35 meter, so up to 36 Mcd I’m good Big Smile

Scallywag
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djozz wrote:
I live in a small city appartment but there is one line (from the windowsill in the living room through the hall onto the front door) that allows a measurement at 13.35 meter, so up to 36 Mcd I’m good Big Smile

Hmm I can get 8.28m in my house, so just over 6.8Mcd. Still have to go outside for the next build… My meter will only read to 999*100, I think…

Okay I got it out and I was incorrect. It will read to 200,000. So at 5m I can measure 5Mcd and at 8.28m, 13Mcd. Hopefully my next build (well, build series, I have a few sizes of fresnel lens) will still send me outside but we will see!

agTac D25C TiL6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special |

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I couldn’t resist and made another triple Optisolis S2+, this time in 4000K. My other 2 are 6500K and 5000K.

Same set-up as the others, host from Kaidomain, driver from Convoy, LED board from Adventure Sport Flashlights, spacer from Mountain Electronics, and Nichias from Virence.

Reflowing the Optisolis LEDs onto the board was very easy and they centered right up. I used a little more than usual soldering paste due to the big pads.

The driver needed a 470 ohm bleeder resister due to the lighted tailcap. I made a light purple tailcap by combining pink and warm white 0805 SMD LEDs. The driver retaining ring needed to be grinded down in the middle to make room for the 7135 chips.

And again I used a Carclo 10511 frosted narrow spot optic and frosted 1 side of the lens.

There are plenty of lumens, it has some throw, the beam is excellent, the tint is very good, and of course the CRI is amazing.

I also got a little creative with my Optisolis flashlights and matched the lighted tailcaps to the color of the hosts. And in case you are wondering, here are the measurements for the switches at 4.1 volts: blue = 0.15 milliamps (2.7 years), light orange = 0.33 milliamps (1.2 years), and light purple = 0.15 milliamps.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Scallywag
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NeutralFan wrote:
I couldn’t resist and made another triple Optisolis S2+, this time in 4000K. My other 2 are 6500K and 5000K.

Same set-up as the others, host from Kaidomain, driver from Convoy, LED board from Adventure Sport Flashlights, spacer from Mountain Electronics, and Nichias from Virence.

Reflowing the Optisolis LEDs onto the board was very easy and they centered right up. I used a little more than usual soldering paste due to the big pads.

The driver needed a 470 ohm bleeder resister due to the lighted tailcap. I made a light purple tailcap by combining pink and warm white 0805 SMD LEDs. The driver retaining ring needed to be grinded down in the middle to make room for the 7135 chips.

And again I used a Carclo 10511 frosted narrow spot optic and frosted 1 side of the lens.

There are plenty of lumens, it has some throw, the beam is excellent, the tint is very good, and of course the CRI is amazing.

I also got a little creative with my Optisolis flashlights and matched the lighted tailcaps to the color of the hosts. And in case you are wondering, here are the measurements for the switches at 4.1 volts: blue = 0.15 milliamps (2.7 years), light orange = 0.33 milliamps (1.2 years), and light purple = 0.15 milliamps.


Note to self: copy this man. I would like, but don’t have, both an Optisolis light and a purple tail cap… The more purple, the better.

agTac D25C TiL6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special |

pinkpanda3310
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Nice mod NuetralFan Thumbs Up

djozz
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Beautiful lights, NeutralLights!

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NeutralFan, I’ll say it: I envy your clean works!!! Silly

Besides getting a beautiful result, it is clean!! Well done Wink

NeutralFan
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Thanks for all the nice comments! Blushing

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

e1000
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wow great work on the S2+‘s they look excellent

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Sofirn IF25A with XPL-HI V2 5D 4000K.

It looks warmer compared to a D4V2 with the same emitters.

Sofirn IF25A with XPL-HI V2 5D 4000K
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Sofirn C01S Blue with Cree XP-E2 Royal Blue

Sofirn C01S Blue with Cree XP-E2 Royal Blue
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Jabe1
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Just a little reflow. Installed a Lh351d 4000k into a foursevens quark. The only challenge was getting the head apart. Too much thread locker.

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Modded a "D10" headlamp, summary:

  • LH351D 3500K, 95 CRI, from Simon, on a 20 mm SinkPAD II
  • used a Quadrupel custom driver FET+1 PCB, reflowed the parts
  • the Quadrupel driver include 2 added switch LED's that light up behind the green rubber which lets just enough light through
  • used a Carlco ~30 deg frosted wide spot bought from LEDSupply (part #10140) - it's a perfect fit height wise, needed some sanding down on the outer edge to fit

Parts, stock and new:

Sanded down the shelf, removed most of the anodizing, smooth to 2000 GRIT:

Stock driver:

New driver, used a SIR404DP FET (no need to go any better). The resistor marked 103 is the 10K resistor for the switch LED's:

I got a ton of these switches in various heights, so found one matching the stock switch height. The LED's are white - figured the green boot would make it green anyway:

This is the charging board. Quadrupel did a great job designing this driver for a perfect fit, and retaining the stock charging circuit:

Backside of the charging circuit board is the batt+ spring, leaving it stock:

The Carclo frosted wide spot, though it's XM size, the tight fit of the optic (sanded down to snugly fit), and the tight fit of the MCPCB should get the LED centered well.

The assembled driver. Just had to solder the 2 stock wires from the charging board to the driver. Again, Quadrupel did a great job accommodating the charging: 

Fitting worked out about perfect:

MX-4 and sanded the SinkPAD II smooth (it needed it), dremel'ed down the corners of the MCPCB slightly to fit tight. All cleaned up:

All assembled and working, in OFF with switch LED's on max:

Moon level, switch LED's on low (visible in the dark):

The Wurkkos HD20 strap fits this perfectly, and can adjust the tilt angle. Much better than the stock strap:

On a 35E, it does 5.75 amps on turbo, which is fine - I don't need lots of power for using this on the bench. Standby drain is 180 uA with the switch LED's on max.

 

Ohhh - of course it's running Anduril 2 wink

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Tom E wrote:

Modded a “D10” headlamp, summary:

    …….

I will let The Beatles say it for me: “It’s a clean machine”.
Yep, very clean indeed Thumbs Up

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

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Perfection Smile

Hint: To remove “anodizing “ use a drain cleaner and cotton stick
Tom E
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Thanks! Didn't get a chance for beam shots but the beam and tint are about perfect for using for bench work. The beam has a center spot but is wide and blends softly with the flood area. The 351D 3500K doesn't look as warm as it does in a SMO reflector light. There seems to a difference in the tint when looking at the beams of this light vs. a modified NE01 with the same LED - the NE01 has more yellow. 

I gotta buy more of these:  351D 3500K at Simon's

 

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You inspired me to start working on my D10 Tom. I have the zoomie version with led-lenser style zoom-TIR, so it looks a bit different, with a mini-MCPCP on a short pillar. The aim is just swapping the ugly purple 10kK XP-G2 knock-off with also a 3500K LH351D, the user interface and limited output is pretty ok for me. Will likely also stick to the stock mini-MCPCB but I may go for copper (but that is real work: adapting the size and thickness of a 10mm VoB board).

Opening up the front was quite a task, the TIR scews in and out but is secured by a press-fit aluminium ring that took quite some heating up with a blowtorch (careful not to melt the TIR) before it gave in.

Tom E
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Wow, that's a small MCPCB. Are you gonna slice the 351D? I didn't do mine because I want a wide hot spot.

Sounds like you were lucky with the blowtorch.

Quadrupel's custom driver made all the difference. In my original D25 mod, I wired in a ATTiny85, but now seeing how smoothly this went, I'm gonna replace that mod with Quadrupel driver. I got a bunch of the bare PCB's and one more D25 (Sofirn) and another D10 on order for like $14 shipped from Ali. I don't have the zoomie version though.

djozz
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Unsliced, the stock led gave slight artifacts, my guess is that with a large die that becomes less, hopefully. And indeed, a headlamp needs a good flood, the throw is a helpful bonus but extreme throw is not needed (got extreme throw covered already with other lights).

I’m not a driver guru, not in skills but also not in my needs, as long as the driver has some useful modes and does not have horrible pwm, I’m fine.

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djozz wrote:
You inspired me to start working on my D10 Tom. I have the zoomie version with led-lenser style zoom-TIR, so it looks a bit different, with a mini-MCPCP on a short pillar. The aim is just swapping the ugly purple 10kK XP-G2 knock-off with also a 3500K LH351D, the user interface and limited output is pretty ok for me. Will likely also stick to the stock mini-MCPCB but I may go for copper (but that is real work: adapting the size and thickness of a 10mm VoB board).

Opening up the front was quite a task, the TIR scews in and out but is secured by a press-fit aluminium ring that took quite some heating up with a blowtorch (careful not to melt the TIR) before it gave in.

!{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/vaE86nV.jpg!


That may be why I couldn’t open mine. Facepalm
djozz
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Finished the mod, just swapped led with a 3500K LH351D, glued the PCB back in place with AAA and pressed the alu ring in again. The beam is still far from perfect, not in flood, not in spot. But the tint makes this now a very pleasant headlamp for someone who is not a snob, also because of the charging port. I have some protected NCR18650B cells somewhere, with these it is a nice gift for a camper.

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