What did you mod today?

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Xandre
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djozz
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Thanks Xandre, that sounds good. Nice beam, it looks like it will be a bit of a rainbow around the focus, like I had with my XM-L2 36cm fresnel box, but I hope it will still be a good spot Smile

Haukkeli
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I’ve been trying to get Convoy 12V boost driver with current sense resistor value halved to work with XHP70.2 on 12V MCPCB. Well, not a success. It lits up and is quite bright, but I can’t change modes. Few taps and nothing happens, few more and it flickers. 20 taps and I can get to config mode and change groups. If I use GT-FC40, the driver works just fine. Can’t really tell is it brighter than with stock driver. At least it works. So partially success?

thefreeman
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Half the value will double the current, was that what you wanted to do ? It might hit the switch current limit and some components might be undersized for it.
Which driver is it, is it originally for 6V or 12V?

Haukkeli
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Yes, that was what I tried to do. It is meant for GT-FC40 and is 12V boost driver. I was trying to use it as a 12V 5A driver for XHP70.2. Didn’t work. For GT-FC40 it did work. Molicel P42 is the battery I used.

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Convoy S21A with GT-FC40 and S2+ clip.


id30209
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Haukkeli wrote:
Convoy S21A with GT-FC40 and S2+ clip. !https://abload.de/img/img_20210721_1504002xkksv.jpg! !https://abload.de/img/img_20210721_15033723zkdb.jpg! !https://abload.de/img/img_20210721_1503012kkj9t.jpg![/quote] 

 

I see you had to drill the reflector...How's the beam?

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

MoreLumens
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id30209 wrote:

Haukkeli wrote:
Convoy S21A with GT-FC40 and S2+ clip. !https://abload.de/img/img_20210721_1503012kkj9t.jpg!
 

 


I see you had to drill the reflector…How’s the beam?

Cool. How it throws? Cool

Haukkeli
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Very floody. Big Smile

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Haukkeli wrote:
Very floody. :D

 

I know, i have XHP70.2 in my S21B but I didn't drill the reflector.

Any beamshots? 

 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

MoreLumens
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id30209 wrote:

Haukkeli wrote:
Very floody. Big Smile

 


I know, i have XHP70.2 in my S21B but I didn’t drill the reflector.


Any beamshots? 


 

100 meters? 150 meters?

Haukkeli
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Probably 100m is closer. Hadn’t had opportunity to try it in dark conditions. Only indoors. I have one extra OP reflector for S21A with 11mm hole, if you ever need one.

Haukkeli
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id30209 wrote:

Haukkeli wrote:
Very floody. Big Smile

 


I know, i have XHP70.2 in my S21B but I didn’t drill the reflector.


Any beamshots? 


 


Sorry, no beamshots. There really isn’t darkness before 1AM and even then you still can see around quite well.
will34
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I have an old C8+ build with FET + XPL-HI, works fine but I want to upgrade it. Which would you use?

CSLPM1 or SFT40?

Convoy ramping driver or 5A 17mm “SST40” driver? Does anyone know if these drivers accept convoy lighted switch?

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I would go with SFT40 and FET or LD-A4 7 – 9Amp driver

Haukkeli
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will34 wrote:
I have an old C8+ build with FET + XPL-HI, works fine but I want to upgrade it. Which would you use?

CSLPM1 or SFT40?

Convoy ramping driver or 5A 17mm “SST40” driver? Does anyone know if these drivers accept convoy lighted switch?


Sst-40 driver works with lighted switch. As does Led4Power drivers, if you choose bleeder option.
MoreLumens
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Swapped C8F XP-L’s to sliced 5000k LH351D’s and added SS bezel:

Compared to unsliced stock 5000k’s:

Difference is small, but oh it’s good.

Haukkeli
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MoreLumens wrote:
Swapped C8F XP-L’s to sliced 5000k LH351D’s and added SS bezel:

Compared to unsliced stock 5000k’s:

Difference is small, but oh it’s good.

Nice one! Thumbs Up

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I think it's maybe not so small - looks really good!

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Today I swapped the three secondary red 5mm LEDs in my SF A2 Aviator with some warm white high CRI LEDs from Ebay (Sophia?).

I filed off the lip on the bottom of the LEDs so they would fit properly in the reflector holes.

I didn’t want to try to remove the leaf spring contact ring from the bottom of the LED board to properly desolder the red LEDs so I opted to just snip them off and solder the new ones right on top. This worked out great.



The LEDs in this light are powered directly by the cells with just a resistor in series. I left the original resistors for the red LEDs (100ohm I believe) since I’m going to use 16340 cells with this light rather than CR123 primaries. That’s a perfect value for the white LEDs with the higher voltage cells.

The incandescent lamp is actually driven by a buck converter (4.5v I believe?) with a “soft start” feature to extend lamp life. Pretty advanced for a light of its time.

CCT of the LEDs matches perfectly with the incandescent lamp. The LED beam is a bit weird when you shine it on a white wall but it’s so wide it isn’t really noticeable in actual use. Here it is next to the incandescent beam which has a very tight hotspot.

And here’s some measurements of the LEDs along with the incandescent lamp just for fun.

Haukkeli
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Haukkeli wrote:
Convoy S21A with GT-FC40 and S2+ clip.


!https://abload.de/img/img_20210721_1503012kkj9t.jpg!

Those wanting to do this mod I recommend Convoy S21B. I just found out, not in a nice way, that it takes 22mm driver. So Convoys 22mm boost driver is direct match. With 21A I had to do all kinds of tricks to get it to fit.
Sari33
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First time tried to dedome a Led dipped for entire night on petroleum 1268(naptha for cigarette lighters).
part of the dome was almost detached,tried to removed it by lifting with a blade then half was broke.
The residual remained attached on the bond wire with result of a bizarre difference tint shift and artifacts between the two parts .

Does I used wrong solvent or had to wait longer to melt dome completely?
I would also find a method to remove the residuals dome.

MoreLumens
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Sari33 wrote:
First time tried to dedome a Led dipped for entire night on petroleum 1268(naptha for cigarette lighters). half dome was almost detached,tried to removed it by lifting with a blade half was broke. With the residual remained attached on the bond wire with the result of a bizarre difference in color between the two parts . Does I used wrong solvent or had to wait longer to melt dome completely?

Did same with my first dedome. Got ugly green XM-L2 in process. Dome didn’t come completely off either so had to carefully remove it with blade, toothpick etc. Bond wires stayed intact with pure luck.

Sari33
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Yeah,before tint was better,just slight cool/purple and now it’s greenish
Lesson learn with old Cree Leds.
Now need magnifier and patience for remove residuals,what about use compressed air?
Next I would try dedome a greenish SST-20 4K to improve tint and throw
but I’m hesitating,considering these results…

MoreLumens
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Sari33 wrote:
Yeah,before tint was better and now it’s greenish. Lesson learn with old Cree Leds. Now I need magnifier and patience for remove residuals,what about use compressed air?

Well you can try to put it in solvent for some time. Dome should become all crumply and come off just by pushing it a bit with toothpick. Felt like phosphor won’t budge or come off easily, but bond wires break off so easily. Maybe trying to cut around them with razor would work, but those wires won’t tolerate any movement.

Sari33
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Now that half part is uncovered, there is a risk that the phosphors will be damaged when on contact with the solvent?
Thanks for support.

MoreLumens
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I don’t think it will damage that, mine swam few days in solvent with partial dome, but I’m not an expert. It didn’t remove any phosphor, but did it make it more green, not sure.

nottawhackjob
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Sari33 wrote:
Yeah,before tint was better,just slight cool/purple and now it’s greenish Lesson learn with old Cree Leds. Now need magnifier and patience for remove residuals,what about use compressed air? Next I would try dedome a greenish SST-20 4K to improve tint and throw but I’m hesitating,considering these results…

Hit it with electronic contact spray. You’re not gonna hurt anything. The force of the spray will tend to knock off the remaining already weakened/crumbly silicone. If that doesn’t work right off the bat soak it in “Goof Off!” for 4 hours.

Then spray it again. Let dry which will be pretty fast. You should end up with just a pristine phosphor pad and its wires.

Home Depot sells CRC QD Contact Cleaner and “Goof Off!” at a good price.

Grad

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

MoreLumens
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I doubt there is Goof Off! around Europe, so what about CRC Brakleen? Brake cleaner, removes all kind of grease easily, not sure about leds, maybe too effective?

nottawhackjob
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MoreLumens wrote:
I doubt there is Goof Off! around Europe, so what about CRC Brakleen? Brake cleaner, removes all kind of grease easily, not sure about leds, maybe too effective?

Some folks use gasoline. Comparable to Goof Off! essentially. Just a lot more vapor-flammable.

The stuff ya mention could be too harsh.

Ya know I’ve never tried kerosene which is relatively mild. I’ll give it a shot someday.

The contact cleaner should be fast drying and leaves zero residue. Essential in the process.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

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