What did you mod today?

10596 posts / 0 new
Last post
texas shooter
Offline
Last seen: 43 min 25 sec ago
Joined: 08/26/2012 - 02:14
Posts: 1765
Location: Texas
ArtieT59 wrote:

So far, i got the xhp35 HI 4000k in the M2r warrior, and i got the D1s done! 3.5 hours later! heres some pics. sorry for the link, dont have time to upload pics, but wanted to share!


https://imgur.com/a/Dm7jSnC


Highlights: 


Emisar D1s


7.5amp KR4 driver, Anduril 1 


Lighted Cyan Switch


SFT40 LED (still needs to be tuned properly, height adjustments)



 




Looking good.

ArtieT59
ArtieT59's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2020 - 17:55
Posts: 3027
Location: CT, USA

thefreeman wrote:
And to modify Vsense you can change R3 : R3 = R4 x (VCC-Vsense) / Vsense With VCC = 2.8V and R4 = 3.3k For 50mV you get 181.5k (180k is used), for 75mV 119.9k (probably 120k is used, check the code on the resistor), for 90mV 99.4k (100k is used).


thank you! And JaredM for this info! Of course I already installed everything and before I came back to look at these comments.. but I still have the second driver for the D1 to try this with. Thank you!

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

ArtieT59
ArtieT59's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2020 - 17:55
Posts: 3027
Location: CT, USA

JaredM wrote:
TMaxxJJ wrote:
JaredM wrote:
D1s from what I remember hearing had a flawed reflector. I believe the GT mini reflector fits it however.. but maybe I have that backwards.
Flawed reflector, or just tuned perfectly for a XPL-HI? IIRC nothing with that LED throws as well in its size class. Artie - Have you got yourself a light meter yet so you can measure some numbers? Also for the tuning, or are you doing that by eye?
As I said, I may have had that backwards. D1 definitely had a bad beam, and I remember some folks swapping reflectors between D1s and GT mini. I can't remember which was better and never had either personally.

 

even with the xpl-hi the beam was nasty. It's interesting because I see all of these posts about simons osram lights lately with people complaining about the beams, one of the biggest reasons I even figured I would switch the leds out during the d1 & D1s driver swaps was because the beams were already so poor anyway, just fuzziness around the hotspot, not impressive for what I come to expect from Hank. I would love to have a convoy sft40 quality beam on my d1s right about now! I know Hank didn't design this reflector for this led or even this size led.

I put a kr1 reflector in the d1s a while back and it improved it greatly! The kr1 reflector has made every emitter I've used it in (over a dozen) look really good! It's one of the best all around reflector I have ever used.

 

the d1s reflector- I wouldn't be surprised if you had it correct JaredM, and that it was flawed. I'm going to work on getting a gt mini reflector as when I had one of those i remember the beam was nice, maybe I'm wrong. but worth a try. I found a very similarly sized reflector on kaidoman, but it had a slight op which was disappointing..

 

Tmaxxjj - I have a lux meter for measuring throw. 

when I say tune the beam (I am probably saying it wrong), I mean to eliminate the rings and artifacts, not optimize the throw Perse, although I feel they're probably hand in hand to an extent. I just want it to look better than this picture below.. it's very aggravating. The reflector is very thick at its emitter opening, and also wide. And with a small mcpcb it makes the options you have for lowering it without hitting the +/- terminals very difficult. If I had a lathe, this thing would already be either fixed or destroyed! 

what are you implying/asking tmaxxjj? To measure while adjusting to see what works better? I'm using my eyes to determine the beam has terrible rings in it, yes. I don't need equipment for that lol. I don't care about total throw so much, I've recently felt like it is whatever the battery, led, and driver will let it be (total Lm  & cd). I am way more concerned about how the beam looks. It's kind of all that matters, within reason. 

D1s with a well fitting centering ring and the sft40 led.NOTE: the led is sits VERY low in the reflector open8ng with this centering ring, without the centering ring it's better than this pic but still not good by any means. I'm going to start reaming until someth8ng happens, good or bad. I've reamed before so I have experience of how not to mess that up. The beam on the other hand, who knows...

 

 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

Haukkeli
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 06/24/2021 - 05:27
Posts: 105
Location: Suomi

Today I finally built Convoy S21A quad using LD-A4 driver, Nichia 219b’s from Convoy flashlight store, lighted tailswitch and Kaidomain quad mcpcb and tir with self made spacer. Driver runs at 10A and leds are mix of 4500K and 3500K. Spacer is ~22mmx5mm copper piece with small machined groove for pcb. Kaidomain quad tir fits S21A perfectly.




Beamshot from 1,5m distance with color balance of 4600K

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 6883
Location: Portugal

Haukkeli wrote:
Today I finally built Convoy S21A quad using LD-A4 driver, Nichia 219b’s from Convoy flashlight store, lighted tailswitch and Kaidomain quad mcpcb and tir with self made spacer. Driver runs at 10A and leds are mix of 4500K and 3500K. Spacer is ~22mmx5mm copper piece with small machined groove for pcb. Kaidomain quad tir fits S21A perfectly.


[…]
Beamshot from 1,5m distance with color balance of 4600K


Cool Cool
I guess it will run hot AF, no? Evil
TMaxxJJ
Online
Last seen: 12 sec ago
Joined: 02/01/2018 - 03:18
Posts: 416
Location: England

ArtieT59 wrote:
even with the xpl-hi the beam was nasty. It’s interesting because I see all of these posts about simons osram lights lately with people complaining about the beams, one of the biggest reasons I even figured I would switch the leds out during the d1 & D1s driver swaps was because the beams were already so poor anyway, just fuzziness around the hotspot, not impressive for what I come to expect from Hank.

what are you implying/asking tmaxxjj? To measure while adjusting to see what works better? I’m using my eyes to determine the beam has terrible rings in it, yes. I don’t need equipment for that lol.


I’m guessing you must have had a bad one. My D1S’s beam and focus is just perfect. Even with its age it’s still one of my favourite torches, and with them being discontinued they’re very sort after.

To tune the reflector means to get the best focus and thus in turn optimal throw, so that’s where the meter would come in. But as you say, you’re just looking for a pleasant beam that looks good. Which is fair enough!

Once you’ve finished and you’re happy, I’d still be very interested as to what numbers you’re getting from it with the SFT40 Smile

Haukkeli
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 06/24/2021 - 05:27
Posts: 105
Location: Suomi

MascaratumB wrote:
Haukkeli wrote:
Today I finally built Convoy S21A quad using LD-A4 driver, Nichia 219b’s from Convoy flashlight store, lighted tailswitch and Kaidomain quad mcpcb and tir with self made spacer. Driver runs at 10A and leds are mix of 4500K and 3500K. Spacer is ~22mmx5mm copper piece with small machined groove for pcb. Kaidomain quad tir fits S21A perfectly.


[…]
Beamshot from 1,5m distance with color balance of 4600K


Cool Cool
I guess it will run hot AF, no? Evil

Not much different compared to S2+ triples that use Fet-driver.
MoreLumens
MoreLumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2019 - 07:08
Posts: 1663
Location: Finland

Opened up my Acebeam H30 for a led swap. Just main emitter from 5000k to XHP70.2 6V 4000k which I ordered from Simon at Convoy store:

I would like to swap those aux-leds too for 219b 4500k and 660 nm red, but looks complicated. Two-sided mcpcb which has some stuff right behind leds too. Question, how would you swap those?

But yeah main emitter was easy and 4000k sure is “perfect” tint for me. Also I like the results, because now when comparing low mode to Nichia aux it’s not almost exactly same brightness which it was with stock 5000k one.

Some beamshots:

There is even some red in beam?

Compared to SST20 4000k’s.

Compared to 219b 4500k.

It’s not as rosy, but nice yellowish tone. Doesn’t look green at all when using eyes instead of camera. When comparing with eyes to SST20’s I even prefer this tone more when looking at white wall. SST20’s even seems greenish if compared, but camera shows opposite. Shocked

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3644
Location: US
MoreLumens wrote:
Two-sided mcpcb which has some stuff right behind leds too. Question, how would you swap those?

Kapton tape on the bottom side. Hot air (low volume) on top/sides with flux paste around the LED to help liquify solder.

To put new component on you will want to clean the pads very well and use more flux between LED and pad combined with the smallest possible amount of lead free solder paste.

MoreLumens
MoreLumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2019 - 07:08
Posts: 1663
Location: Finland
contactcr wrote:
MoreLumens wrote:
Two-sided mcpcb which has some stuff right behind leds too. Question, how would you swap those?

Kapton tape on the bottom side. Hot air (low volume) on top/sides with flux paste around the LED to help liquify solder.

To put new component on you will want to clean the pads very well and use more flux between LED and pad combined with the smallest possible amount of lead free solder paste.

So kapton tape the whole bottom so components won’t come off?

Not sure if I try this project. First I should get hot air gun and also some tape + flux. Last two cheap, but hot air gun little bit more. No idea if I need it elsewhere either. Also I could make a mess and break my lovely headlamp.

Would here be anyone who would offer their skills and help me out? Not free of course.
Maybe first I should find out if Acebeam sells those boards as spares if worst case scenario happens.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 878
Location: France

Kapton tape shouldn’t be needed, I reflow double sided PCB and back side components falling off hasn’t happened to me (yet at least).

How powerfull are those aux channel LEDs ? Likely low power I guess, maybe soldering the thermal pad is not necessary. Do the anode and cathode pads extend past the footprint ? (Usually for the solder to overflow) If so you could try soldering the pads by putting your iron with a solder blob there. For desoldering, take a knife and remove the dome and phosphor, then apply directly your iron on the led’s substrate.

Edit : they don’t

You could try scrapping the soldermask next to the pads so you can put your iron there.

MoreLumens
MoreLumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2019 - 07:08
Posts: 1663
Location: Finland

thefreeman wrote:
Kapton tape shouldn’t be needed, I reflow double sided PCB and back side components falling off hasn’t happened to me (yet at least).

How powerfull are those aux channel LEDs ? Likely low power I guess, maybe soldering the thermal pad is not necessary. Do the anode and cathode pads extends past the footprint ? (Usually for the solder to overflow) If so you could try soldering the pads by putting your iron with a solder blob there. For desoldering, take a knife and remove dome and phosphor, then apply directly your iron on the led’s substrate.

I think aux-Nichia was about 120 lumens.
Here is picture of those from Lumeniac’s review :
https://s2.gifyu.com/images/H30_21.jpg

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 878
Location: France

Yeah I went for the same review for pictures.

So what I would do without hot air is desoldering as described in my previous comment, I’ve already done it that way, it works well (albeit with the led destroyed).

Then I would remove the soldermask (Green markings) so that the exposed copper areas connects to the pads.
Clean the lead free solder, add a generous amount of flux (which you should have in any case) and place the LED.
Apply the iron to exposed copper with a solder blob (preferably SnPb) and wait until it spreads under the LED, repeat for all pads.

MoreLumens
MoreLumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2019 - 07:08
Posts: 1663
Location: Finland

thefreeman wrote:
Yeah I went for the same review for pictures.

So what I would do without hot air is desoldering as described in my previous comment, I’ve already done it that way, it works well (albeit with the led destroyed).

Then I would remove the soldermask (Green markings) so that the exposed copper areas connects to the pads.
Clean the lead free solder, add a generous amount of flux (which you should have in any case) and place the LED.
Apply the iron to exposed copper with a solder blob (preferably SnPb) and wait until it spreads under the LED, repeat for all pads.

This starts to seem easier now. No need to remove wires either, especially those three small ones. Leds get destroyed, but no need for 630 nm red or Nichia 219c 5000k anyway.

I see the needed steps now. Doesn’t seem that hard at all. Thanks for explaining, but one more question. How do remove that solder mask? Does it peel off easily with some technique?

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 878
Location: France

I don’t know of an easy technique to remove the solder mask, usually I scratch it with a scalpel or a chisel.

MoreLumens
MoreLumens's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 10/25/2019 - 07:08
Posts: 1663
Location: Finland

Also question about that flux. I have soldering paste for reflows, melts at 183 celsius, so do I need to add some extra flux too under those leds?

If so, which one would be better, both are available at local shop:

Liquid
or
Grease

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 38 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 15736
Location: nyc

I always use liquid flux, the blue stuff that looks like washer fluid.

Might very well be, for all I know.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 59 min ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 878
Location: France

MoreLumens wrote:
Also question about that flux. I have soldering paste for reflows, melts at 183 celsius, so do I need to add some extra flux too under those leds?

If so, which one would be better, both are available at local shop:

Liquid
or
Grease

Not any of those, i.e. zink chloride flux, an agressive water based flux, often used for plumbing, it will corrode the joints. For electronics you need a ”no clean” kind, generally rosin based, also exists in liquid (pen, bottle) and grease form (”tacky flux”, or thicker variants in pot)

But the solder paste will do, it contains flux already.

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3644
Location: US

Get the paste:

https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/soldering-supplies/soldering-flux/s...

The liquid stuff might as well be isopropyl. The paste will stick around longer for when you have a stubborn joint. (granted you will have to clean the sticky residue off after)

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4632
Location: California

A few simple mods last night:

Swapped the clip on my Zebralight SC52w triple. Previous clip is a custom deep-carry titanium. New clip is titanium from a Jetbeam TCR-01. Testing to see which one I like better.

Previous clip:

New clip:

I also did a couple mods on my Sofirn SC21, including changing the stock clip to the black one in the last picture.

I also swapped out the 5000K LH351D, for a 4000K SST-20, 95 CRI, FD2 bin. The result is a more concentrated brighter hotspot, more throw, warmer tint and better CRI (especially R9).

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 34 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 5056
Location: Central North America

> New clip is titanium from a Jetbeam TCR-01

the clip looks nice… Im still speechless over your Triple Zebra.. congrats!

for others who dont have access to that clip…

here are a couple other options available for purchase direct from info (at) jetbeamlight.com

The long one, I think costs $2 + ship… they also sell the short version for $1 iirc.. (they come with the screws and wrench). Same hole pattern as the Ti clip for TCR-1.

it helps if you provide Jetbeam a photo of the clip you want.. feel free to use this image if you like:

.

I do not know if they still have the TCR-1 clip available (identical to McGizmo clip, but the jetbeam version is half as thick). I prefer the short clips myself.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 12 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4632
Location: California

Nice! I was running low on those Jetbeam clips. Looks like I should contact them to order some more, plus some new RRT-01 drivers for my old lights.

I’m quite pleased with the modded Zebralight. So far it is working great. No issues. Heat sinking is excellent and the output is very high. On a fresh Vapcell H10, maximum output is actually brighter than my FW3As with SST-20s and 18650 cells inside.

I think I lucked out with this batch of emitters. These FD2 bin SST20s also have the best tint I’ve seen in any SST-20. I thought the tint in some of my FW3As was good, but this is much rosier.

Getkong
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 09/01/2020 - 22:50
Posts: 10

Swapped some emitters in a couple FWAAs this week. Aluminum got 219b sw35, and Ti got 219 sw45k from Simon. Also cut out some glow gaskets out of glow tape.

jon_slider
jon_slider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 34 min ago
Joined: 09/08/2015 - 12:20
Posts: 5056
Location: Central North America

Getkong wrote:
Swapped some emitters in a couple FWAAs this week. Aluminum got 219b sw35, and Ti got 219 sw45k from Simon. Also cut out some glow gaskets out of glow tape.

Very nice Pairing…
thanks for the great photos!
Pacolux
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 08/14/2021 - 12:12
Posts: 41
Location: España

Hello, I show you a small but effective modification, a trustfire t70 that had 1860lm and 220,000CD from stock. Now after stacking a resistor R091 on top of the stock R020 it is giving 2100lm and 250,000CD. The measurements in the tail with the current clamp changed from the 3.7A of stock to the current 4.8A; I don’t know how many will get to the led, maybe half? also I also gave the MCPCB some sandpaper and put new thermal paste

the color and the projection of the led is very good, I think the tint is warmer than what I have seen in other reviews

Pacolux
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 08/14/2021 - 12:12
Posts: 41
Location: España

since I show the olight m3xs-ut javelot I tell you the modification that I made, very similar to that of the t70. I stacked two R500 + R100 resistors on top of the stock R030, I measured on the tail with the stock 2.04A clamp meter, and after the modification I measure 2.82A. This javelot is one of the latest, it has an xpl-hi, I think V3 because before the modification it gave me almost 1400lm and now almost 1800lm

Sirius9
Sirius9's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 5 days ago
Joined: 03/04/2012 - 19:23
Posts: 4648
Location: South Europe

Pacolux wrote:
since I show the olight m3xs-ut javelot I tell you the modification that I made, very similar to that of the t70. I stacked two R500 + R100 resistors on top of the stock R030, I measured on the tail with the stock 2.04A clamp meter, and after the modification I measure 2.82A. This javelot is one of the latest, it has an xpl-hi, I think V3 because before the modification it gave me almost 1400lm and now almost 1800lm

I would be careful with this Olight.
It’s a very popular model locally and I often get it for a repair, models with older driver (2 board version) hardly ever had a driver issue, in 90% of cases it was an issue with the LED (easy fix).
Opposite to this, I had about 5 light with this new driver sent for a repair and it was alway an driver issue + I only managed to repair one of them.

 

Pacolux
Offline
Last seen: 16 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 08/14/2021 - 12:12
Posts: 41
Location: España

Thanks I will take it into account although I can do little, the day it explodes I will put another driver and an sft40. by the way do you know what version of xplhi it has?

ArtieT59
ArtieT59's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2020 - 17:55
Posts: 3027
Location: CT, USA

The modded pair are complete! D1s (sft40, 7.5a driver) D1 (CULPM1, 7.5a driver) . Also attached is the before and after of the D1s beam, I modified a 4040 centering ring and the beam is nearly perfect now! 

sorry for the huge pictures, did this on the phone..

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

contactcr
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 05/19/2017 - 18:52
Posts: 3644
Location: US

Good work on the focusing. The result looks good. If you take a bit over exposed picture you can see even better that your new beam is very parallel lines on the edge of the main hot spot.

Pages