What did you mod today?

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Haukkeli
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Pacolux wrote:
Haukkeli wrote:
Yes, that one.
How weird, I changed the detection resistance to 0.05 Ohm (R010 + R010) and there was no difference. the resistors may not have made good contact.

Maybe too much above specs of the components on the driver. Most likely not contact, because you should see some difference.

Pacolux
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Facepalm I don’t understand electronics
Pacolux
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I will try R010 from stock + R020

Sidney Stratton
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As Freeman stated in post #10548, the converter is close to its limit. Haukkeli piggybacked a 20 mOhm but got 5.32 Amps. You will have to go the XHP35 modded driver (post #10555).

I get the pain of not having readily available parts that fit. It is part of the challenge.

Pacolux
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i use simon’s 6v driver with sst70, i just need a little more current

Haukkeli
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Sidney Stratton wrote:
You are above the driver’s current capability.

Yes, that’s true. Most likely it’s possible to go little above the specs, but not that much.
Haukkeli
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With 10mOhm and 20mOhm piggyback and battery at ~4 volts it draw 8,9A from battery. So still within 10A switching limit. With lower voltages it might be a problem. 4V*8,9A=35,6W.

3,5V*X=35,6W —>

X=35,6W/3,5V —>

X=10,2A of current draw at 3,5V and that is about the boost converters maximum.

If anybody knows how it behaves after that, I’m happy to know.

Sidney Stratton
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Got a dud notification. I suppose someone deleted their post. It’s better to strikethrough as others may wish to follow the conversation. However, the Simple Post Editor has a bug in strikethrough shorthand as only valid within a single line, not an entire paragraph. A line break somehow confuses the mark-up. Never tried the Advanced Post Editor as too ‘fancy’ for my needs.
However, maybe the poster didn’t want to have his mistake be known – that’s fair. No big deal, just an annoyance.

Lotus_Darkrose
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Haven’t done much with flashlights lately, but decided to mod a Thrunite Ti3 V2 AAA with a 90+ CRI Nichia 219C. I like it a lot better now.

Pacolux
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Has anyone tried this driver?https://a.aliexpress.com/_vC7og0 Maybe this manta ray can go higher. I have this other manta ray driverhttps://a.aliexpress.com/_uJQ8Tm pushing a sft40 over 10A and it is a blast

Pacolux
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I think these are the best c8 size hosts to handle heat, there is a lot of material underneath the mcpcb. one sft40 and one sst70 with convoy drivers
€ 10,18 | Controlador 8A para KW CULPM1.TG
https://a.aliexpress.com/_vEGcY0
€ 9,87 | Controlador XHP70.2 para una celda
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uGOqG0

JaredM
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Nice builds Pacolux. I always looked the look of that MR c8.2. I just never carry lights that size. Your mod reminds me that I need to get my hands on some more SFT40s, stat. Hoping the mystery YINDING round emitters perform well and show up quickly. I’ve been denoting them in my build plans as YDpi..

Haukkeli
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I built MR C8.2 with Fet driver and dedomed XHP70.2. Almost 15A from tail at 6V is quite a number. Big Smile

Haukkeli
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I did same test rig for Kaidomain B70 boost driver. M4 bin XHP70.2 and Molicel P42 at 4,1V.

First with stock 10mOhm current sense resistor.

Then with 10 and 20 mOhm parallel

22% increase in output. Also stock driver performs better than Convoy’s one.

ArtieT59
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after a month of trying to get a nice center even beam on my FT03 sft40, i did it! its really good!

the TLDR - 

I reamed the original large centering ring of the ft03 to just under 9mm, and snapped in the square 4040 centering ring simon sells ( i had extra) and what he uses in the L21a sft40. Now, its really good! 

 

 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

ArtieT59
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A good day of mods! See the link, here's the run down:

 

https://imgur.com/a/RlprI7L

 

Left to right:

Gt Micro- Installed cslpm1, brighter and centered

Sofirn sc31T- installed CULPM1- much better

Reylight Pineapple- installed sw30, so much better

FT03- finally perfectly centered the sft40, took a month of tinkering, ended up being easy

Ft03- sfn55.2 - swapped in the smooth reflector, rhe throw is massively better! Will test it

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

Light Veteran
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ArtieT59 wrote:

after a month of trying to get a nice center even beam on my FT03 sft40, i did it! its really good!


the TLDR


I reamed the original large centering ring of the ft03 to just under 9mm, and snapped in the square 4040 centering ring simon sells ( i had extra) and what he uses in the L21a sft40. Now, its really good! 


 





 

I mod this one month ago with SFT like you. Try one week ago in the night and in this moment for me is the best thrower for Best Money/Meter/Beautiful/NO parasitic drain torch
I am so happy

Flashlight addicted

thefreeman
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Firelight2 wrote:
Got my second shipment of FD2 bin SST20s last night.

Immediately installed half of them into my DQG Tiny IV triple and my modded Emisar D4 with lighted metal switch.

I love this emitter! Blows away all other SST-20s I’ve seen. Creamy rosy tint even at low power settings. Makes even the SST-20s that came with my FWAA look like crap. Much rosier than even XPL HI 5D.

I think I should order more.

Do you have a link to this metal switch mod ? I’d really like to see how you did it.

ArtieT59
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Light Veteran wrote:
ArtieT59 wrote:

after a month of trying to get a nice center even beam on my FT03 sft40, i did it! its really good!

the TLDR - 

I reamed the original large centering ring of the ft03 to just under 9mm, and snapped in the square 4040 centering ring simon sells ( i had extra) and what he uses in the L21a sft40. Now, its really good! 

 

 

I mod this one month ago with SFT like you. Try one week ago in the night and in this moment for me is the best thrower for Best Money/Meter/Beautiful/NO parasitic drain torch I am so happy

 

honestly, me too! Now that I have the beam centered and dialed in this is probably my favorite thrower. For size, ease-of-use, throw, and heat management plus battery life, I don't think this can be beat. price to, because I want to put one in a K-1 but that is twice as much money. I'll be interested to see if Astrolux has the beam centered well or if they use that stock centering ring which will not work properly

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

Firelight2
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thefreeman wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Got my second shipment of FD2 bin SST20s last night.

Immediately installed half of them into my … my modded Emisar D4 with lighted metal switch.

Do you have a link to this metal switch mod ? I’d really like to see how you did it.

Here you go:
1. My first Emisar D4 lighted metal switch mod

2. Updated Emisar lighted metal switch with better lighting

Here’s a post that provides extra detail on how to make the metal button. This one is not lighted, but the process is the same. For the lighted version use a slightly smaller button so the silicone has a gap at the edge. And it is necessary to add a raised switchboot retaining ring since the stock ring is too flat:

3. Metal switch mod with no light, but more detailed instructions

Note that if you have the raised-ring Emisar D4v2 you may be out of luck. You can shave the boot down and glue a metal disk on top as-is, but at least on mine, I found that retaining ring impossible to remove.

thefreeman
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Thanks for the links Firelight2 Thumbs Up

Pacolux
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I am not clear about the firmware of this driver. There are two, one cannot be turned off from the rear switch and the other cannot be turned on from the rear switch? isn’t there one that can be turned on and off from the back switch?
https://www.mtnelectronics.com

Scallywag
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Pacolux wrote:
I am not clear about the firmware of this driver. There are two, one cannot be turned off from the rear switch and the other cannot be turned on from the rear switch? isn’t there one that can be turned on and off from the back switch? https://www.mtnelectronics.com

One basically ignores the rear switch. When the rear switch is on, the light has power. You can turn it off and on, whatever. Turn the rear switch off and power is physically disconnected. Light goes off no matter what.

The “turbo on” option just tells the driver “when you receive power the first time, go straight to turbo”. Then you can turn the light “off” with the e-switch and use it like normal. But if you turn the tail off, the light is still off no matter what else is going on, because it still disrupts power physically.

Pacolux
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good explanation thank you very much, I think I would choose the “turbo-on”

Pacolux
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the standard firmware is like that of fx30 convoy? if you turn off and on again the rear switch turns on in the last mode where did you leave it?

Tom E
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Pacolux wrote:
I am not clear about the firmware of this driver. There are two, one cannot be turned off from the rear switch and the other cannot be turned on from the rear switch? isn't there one that can be turned on and off from the back switch? "https://www.mtnelectronics.com":https://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_i...

Both get turned off from the rear switch - turning off the rear switch cuts power completely off, so no power to the driver, no power to the LED.

The only difference between the two options is how the light behaves in turning it on from the rear switch - as he says:

  1. Standard.  In this revision, when the light is powered on by clicking the rear tailcap switch, the light defaults to the "off" position.  The tailcap simply serves as a power lockout. 
  2. Turbo-On.  In this revision, when the light is powered on by clicking the rear tailcap switch, the light defaults to the "TURBO" or highest mode level.  The front momentary switch must be pressed to ramp down or turn off the light.   
Pacolux
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understood, thank you very much! yes I will definitely ask for “turbo-on”

NeutralFan
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I was having problems with my quad E17A S8 with a Convoy SST40 driver. Every once and awhile the driver would reset to mode group 1 and memory mode.

I was thinking the driver was the issue and was planning on replacing it, though not looking forward to taking the head apart. Then I thought to swap the tail out with a non-lighted switch and sure enough that resolved the issue.

The driver says it works with lighted switches and all my others (10 in total) work perfectly fine with them. But it appears that since this was a green lighted switch, the 0.03 mA current was too low.

So I dropped the resistors a level which raised the current to 0.10 mA. And to reduce the brightness, I put some blue permanent marker on the 0805 SMD LEDs. It worked!

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

Scallywag
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Swapped 219B sw30 into my 2019 RRT-01. Super easy swap, and I already had a good Kaidomain reflector and gasket prepared in advance thanks to some helpful threads around here. No pictures; the head came right open since I’d defeated the thread locker in a previous swap. I ordered some 12mm MCPCBs at some point (they came with XP-G2s installed on them) for both of these mods. The reflows were routine.

My VR 10 Ti+ was more challenging. To begin with, it required significantly more disassembly – not just the bezel, but the next piece down had to come off. I referenced this thread for disassembly. I was worried about the reflector. The Kaidomain model for the RRT01 does not fit. There’s possibly an alternate but it would require heavy physical modification to even try it, and I don’t have it on hand. However, I test-fit the reflector and the focus looks okay – that is, I don’t think it can be worse than the stock focus with the XM-L2 (horrible, ringy beam, and like 6000K if I had to guess). I had to fashion a centering gasket adapter – I took a simple ring-style gasket and filed the outside slightly and reamed the inside significantly such that it fit inside the bottom end of the existing gasket, and sat around the 219B sw45k. Next was the grease – since I was at the point of disassembly where I could simply lift the control ring off the head, I stripped the existing grease out. The light was beginning to bind if it was left for more than a few days without use – I had to be careful to put it away at a “middle” setting so I could twist the ring without unscrewing the head instead. I replaced it with a thicker synthetic lube which I hope holds up – but if it doesn’t, I’ll order some of that Nyogel that JonSlider seems to like so much. The beam looked good in the reflector when I was done – for about 5 seconds before I let the smoke out . So I guess that’s my next pressing project… driver repair. Worst case I’ll have to scrounge up a used aluminum model (V10R or V11R or something) for a donor driver.

djozz
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Today I made an EDC to fit the new F14 18350 battery from Vapcell.

Since the F14 retains its great capacity up to 3A but not higher (1300mAh@3A, HKJ’s test here), a 8×7135 current regulated driver is needed, while all my current 18350 EDC’s have direct drivers (mostly BLF-A6 versions). So a new mod was required.

I used a Jaxman E2L host, the latest 8×7135 driver from Simon (link), three oldschool Nichia 219B V1 SW40 R9080 D200 leds from Clemence, a ring-shaped tail-PCP from Oshpark slightly sanded smaller to fit the tail cavity (a pilotdog68 design, this one) with 6 cyan 485nm 0603 leds (each led with a 1.5 kOhm resistor in series).

The driver is set to mode group 1.2 : 0.1%-1%-10%-35%-100%, no memory.

The output on 100% (3.04 A) is 560 lumen, the tint is 3900K and very close to the BBL, visually it looks very neutral with no hints of green or yellow. CRI is as expected above 95 on all brightness settings, with R9 between 80 and 90. The tail leds are not ultra-bright but well visible in dim surroundings and they draw 0.18mA current which should be good for over 300 days on a battery charge. The emitted wavelength is exactly 500nm (cyan leds emit a higher than listed wavelength when at very low currents).

One remark about using a lighted switch in combination with this driver: Simon mentions on his website that this driver supports a lighted switch, without having to add a bleeder resistor. Although this is correct, and the user interface is stable with tail leds functioning, the driver struggles to provide enough voltage to light up blue or even green tail leds, red is fine. You can compensate some of this with lower than usual value resistors in the tail but blue never becomes bright. I think that some battery voltage is eaten on the driver before feeding the tail leds.

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