What did you mod today?

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Scallywag
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Scallywag wrote:
Swapped 219B sw30 into my 2019 RRT-01. Super easy swap, and I already had a good Kaidomain reflector and gasket prepared in advance thanks to some helpful threads around here. No pictures; the head came right open since I’d defeated the thread locker in a previous swap. I ordered some 12mm MCPCBs at some point (they came with XP-G2s installed on them) for both of these mods. The reflows were routine.

My V10R Ti+ was more challenging. To begin with, it required significantly more disassembly – not just the bezel, but the next piece down had to come off. I referenced this thread for disassembly. I was worried about the reflector. The Kaidomain model for the RRT01 does not fit. There’s possibly an alternate but it would require heavy physical modification to even try it, and I don’t have it on hand. However, I test-fit the reflector and the focus looks okay – that is, I don’t think it can be worse than the stock focus with the XM-L2 (horrible, ringy beam, and like 6000K if I had to guess). I had to fashion a centering gasket adapter – I took a simple ring-style gasket and filed the outside slightly and reamed the inside significantly such that it fit inside the bottom end of the existing gasket, and sat around the 219B sw45k. Next was the grease – since I was at the point of disassembly where I could simply lift the control ring off the head, I stripped the existing grease out. The light was beginning to bind if it was left for more than a few days without use – I had to be careful to put it away at a “middle” setting so I could twist the ring without unscrewing the head instead. I replaced it with a thicker synthetic lube which I hope holds up – but if it doesn’t, I’ll order some of that Nyogel that JonSlider seems to like so much. The beam looked good in the reflector when I was done – for about 5 seconds before I let the smoke out . So I guess that’s my next pressing project… driver repair. Worst case I’ll have to scrounge up a used aluminum model (V10R or V11R or something) for a donor driver.


I repaired the driver today. Beamshots of the two:

V10R Ti+ sw45k on the left, RRT01 sw30 on the right. As you can see, the beams are pretty good. The RRT-01 has a wider beam, and overall it’s slightly better. The VR10 has a bit of a bright ring at the very edge of the spill, but that’s really the only “flaw” in the beam as far as I can tell – and I don’t mind it in real use.

The V10R Ti+ is as low as it’ll go (which is plenty low), but the RRT01 is already dimmer and has more room to go. I can get it dim enough that I can only tell it’s on if I’m not looking directly at it.
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ArtieT59 wrote:

Did two fun mods today!


Convoy C8 with sbt90.2
https://imgur.com/a/hYKzcAx
WildTrail WT1M with “W2.2” CULPM1
https://imgur.com/a/OAiMo1k
Enjoying them both, but need to dial in the C8 beam better. Probably remove the centering ring.

Is the off-center 90.2 noticeable in the beam?
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Scallywag wrote:
ArtieT59 wrote:

Did two fun mods today!

Convoy C8 with sbt90.2 https://imgur.com/a/hYKzcAx WildTrail WT1M with "W2.2" CULPM1 https://imgur.com/a/OAiMo1k Enjoying them both, but need to dial in the C8 beam better. Probably remove the centering ring.

Is the off-center 90.2 noticeable in the beam?

lol, thanks for pointing that out. 

 

YES, yes it is. The beam is.. well.. bleh. not good, right now! ive put all of 45 minutes into the light so far though, non of which has been working on the reflector location. I need to drop it. and center the reflector of course. i just wanted to get it together to try it out tonight. lol.

 

But yes, the off center led makes the beam not have a hotpsot essentially. at 20m you see the hotspot, but its not defined. 

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Before removing you could try sanding the bottom of the centering ring and see if that helps

You probably already know to be very careful of reflector shorts with the centering ring out

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Scallywag wrote:
Before removing you could try sanding the bottom of the centering ring and see if that helps You probably already know to be very careful of reflector shorts with the centering ring out

 

thank you, I will try that. I think I already did it on this one but I don't remember because I might have a couple lights yesterday and on some of them I sanded the centering ring really thin. So I may have done it on this already but I will try if I did not.

 

and absolutely about the short possibility. I surrounded this sbt90.2 with kapton tape, which I always do when I Delens them, just to be extra cautious . So this one is insulated pretty well. This is the first time I noticed a green tint coming from the delensed sbt90.2, though. At least on lower levels.

I got it from Simon at convoy I wonder if it's just the particular batch..

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Haukkeli
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Today I changed XHP50.3 4000K 90cri from Digikey to my Convoy S16. It has 6V 5A driver and OP reflector. Original emitter was XHP50.2 4000K 70cri from Convoy flashlight store. Here are some white wall comparisons with color balance of 4600K and about 2,5 metres distance.
First with 10% mode:


Then with 100% mode:

New one is throwier, dimmer and ugly greenish yellow.

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I would think the dimmer is expected - you always get less lumens for higher CRI? I can't see the ugly greenish compared to the 50.2 in these shots, maybe just me. The hotspot is definitely smaller though - would expect better throw.

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 I would also expect dimmer and greener tint for HI CRI (im thinking sst20 here, greener at 4000k Hi Cri compared to xpl-hi 4000k) i would actually prefer the 50.3 NOT be in Hi CRI, i have never understood the need for a Hi CRI throwing LED? If one can barely see the target at 300m, why does the color rendition mater? 

 

On to- why are so many ppl interested in SFT40 in 4000k & Hi CRI? i would be happy with 5700k. Actually, i would be happy to just be able to buy some of them! my god... this is getting painful! C'mon Luminus! LOL

 

Anyway, i guess good tint doesn't matter at 300m either. lol.

 

Either way, im excited! that 50.3 should be awesome. Just wish there was a 3volt version, i dont care what color or cri. just 3v.

 

 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

Haukkeli
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Tom E wrote:

I would think the dimmer is expected – you always get less lumens for higher CRI? I can’t see the ugly greenish compared to the 50.2 in these shots, maybe just me. The hotspot is definitely smaller though – would expect better throw.

Yes, it was not a surprise it is dimmer. It is easily the greenest led I have ever seen. Picture won’t show the difference. Even my wife asked why have I built green light. Big Smile

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Warmer tints for throwers is reported to have advantages in less reflection with moisture in the air, could result in better range in real outdoors. Plus throwers aren't used solely for long distance, least in many use cases. If you got a light in your hand, you are gonna use it for anything that's needed at the moment.

Interesting about the green...

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ArtieT59 wrote:

 I would also expect dimmer and greener tint for HI CRI (im thinking sst20 here, greener at 4000k Hi Cri compared to xpl-hi 4000k) i would actually prefer the 50.3 NOT be in Hi CRI, i have never understood the need for a Hi CRI throwing LED? If one can barely see the target at 300m, why does the color rendition mater? 


 


On to- why are so many ppl interested in SFT40 in 4000k & Hi CRI? i would be happy with 5700k. Actually, i would be happy to just be able to buy some of them! my god… this is getting painful! C’mon Luminus! LOL


 


Anyway, i guess good tint doesn’t matter at 300m either. lol.


 


Either way, im excited! that 50.3 should be awesome. Just wish there was a 3volt version, i dont care what color or cri. just 3v.


 


 

This isn’t the domeless version. So this is not the smallest led. Probably not a good choice for a thrower.

Haukkeli
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Tom E wrote:

Warmer tints for throwers is reported to have advantages in less reflection with moisture in the air, could result in better range in real outdoors. Plus throwers aren’t used solely for long distance, least in many use cases. If you got a light in your hand, you are gonna use it for anything that’s needed at the moment.


Interesting about the green…

I bought few different new XHP’s when I ordered components from Digikey.

80cri version of 4000K is not so green, but not neutral either.

I also have XHP50.3 in 5000K 80cri and 90 cri versions. Interestingly I couldn’t find the 90cri version in the datasheet. Binning label that came with the led tells this is one flux bin higher than highest flux bin in the datasheet.

I haven’t tried 5000K versions yet.

I also ordered 70.3 in 6000K. Haven’t tried that either.

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Nice! Just Digikey here (US) and found 58 listings in stock for the XHP50.3 but all were listed at 11.2V, 11.2V also done at 6V.

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So this one is green but does it at least have better color uniformity than .2s ?

Haukkeli
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thefreeman wrote:
So this one is green but does it at least have better color uniformity than .2s ?

Some tint shift on lower power levels, not so bad with more power but still there. Blue area in the middle of the beam from the cross section of four diodes. With this Convoy M1 reflector I liked XHP50.2 more.

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EDIT: I almsot didn't post this, because the camera makes the emitter look green and it is really aggravating. it is actually rosy and looks really nice. and no, i am not color blind lol. Anyway,

 

Another s2r2 baton. the pics make the xpl-hi 4000k 5d look green, but this came out of one of my newly acquired D1's and it is the rosiest and nicest xpl-hi 5d i have ever come across. In Real Life it is beautiful, in these photos, the emitter looks green. Go figure, take my words for it, its really nice.

 

both xpl-hi 4000k, but the s2r2 green has the nicer tint. The Copper warrior has a nice tint too, just not as nice.

 

The whole set, this s2r2 was the last one i needed to swap the horrible stock emitter out of. 

Again, the green baton actually has a REALLY nice tint, rosy and clean. But this pic makes it look green. its NOT, i cant figure out why the camera does this. only seems to happen to the xpl-hi 4000k which is weird.

 

Also, i know the last two (copper and green) look like they would be different emitters, but they are not. i verified before i did the mods. The camera is making them look much different than they actually are (they look more similar to each other IRL), but also there is such a variation of tints in the xpl-hi 4000k line i have noticed, from having dozens of this one emitter. 

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Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

m47mu74nt
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Ghetto reflow with tealight candle of 3 Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI on different MCPCB :
It really works great (I was extremely surprised how easy it went!), the hardest part is to get rid of the carbon deposition on the back of the MCPCB after the soldering is complete

Sofirn HS05 :

HD20 and SP40 got their swap too. … and I also reflowed an Osram flat green in plae of the Osram flat white of a Convoy C8+

from left to right :

Wurkkos HD20 (stock flood : LH351D 500k, modded spot : LH351D 2700K 90CRI)
Manker E03HII (stock)
Convoy S2+ (modded, Osram flat white)
Sofirn SP40 (modded, Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI)
Sofirn SP40 (modded, Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI + diffuser film)
Sofirn HS05 (modded, Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI + diffuser film)

bottom :
Convoy C8+ (modded, Osram flat green)

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Haukkeli wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
So this one is green but does it at least have better color uniformity than .2s ?
Some tint shift on lower power levels, not so bad with more power but still there. Blue area in the middle of the beam from the cross section of four diodes. With this Convoy M1 reflector I liked XHP50.2 more.
 

 

M1 is way too small for this emitter. Like with all tiny reflectors (compared to the size of the emitter) it will show all negative in LED.

Try it in C8+ or some bigger model and you will see it in true colors.

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

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id30209 wrote:

Haukkeli wrote:
thefreeman wrote:
So this one is green but does it at least have better color uniformity than .2s ?
Some tint shift on lower power levels, not so bad with more power but still there. Blue area in the middle of the beam from the cross section of four diodes. With this Convoy M1 reflector I liked XHP50.2 more.
 

 


M1 is way too small for this emitter. Like with all tiny reflectors (compared to the size of the emitter) it will show all negative in LED.


Try it in C8+ or some bigger model and you will see it in true colors.

Simon himself offers M21B with Xhp50.2. M1 has same reflector and it is fine with XHP50.2. The beam itself isn’t that bad with XHP50.3. It is just ugly green.

I have four different XHP50.3’s and I have tried two of them. 4000K, 90cri and 80cri and both very green. Their tint isn’t, in my opinion, improvement over Xhp50.2. I have tried C chromaticity binned 4000K 80cri Xhp50.2 from Kaidomain and it is much more pleasurable tint.

It is usually quite easy to get rid of blue center or at least get it less noticeable. Just need to do some adjusting to reflector height. Different gaskets etc.

M21B/M1 reflector also works fine with XHP70.2. Just don’t expect much throw.

Yes, I like to experiment on my spare time. Smile

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m47mu74nt wrote:
Ghetto reflow with tealight candle of 3 Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI on different MCPCB : It really works great (I was extremely surprised how easy it went!), the hardest part is to get rid of the carbon deposition on the back of the MCPCB after the soldering is complete

Nice job m47mu74nt! Just goes to show how easy it is to reflow LEDs.

To make sure MCPCBs are flat, I put some fine grit sandpaper on a small mirror and sand it down. That would also remove the carbon deposit. I’m always surprised when it appears the MCPCB is flat, sanding it down will usually show some spots that aren’t.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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V10R w 3000K 219B
.

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ArtieT59 wrote:
I would also expect dimmer and greener tint for HI CRI (im thinking sst20 here, greener at 4000k Hi Cri compared to xpl-hi 4000k) i would actually prefer the 50.3 NOT be in Hi CRI, i have never understood the need for a Hi CRI throwing LED? If one can barely see the target at 300m, why does the color rendition mater?

I have built many throwers with high CRI LEDs for hiking on trails at night. I am rarely looking at objects 300m away. Nature looks much nicer in high CRI.

ArtieT59 wrote:
Again, the green baton actually has a REALLY nice tint, rosy and clean. But this pic makes it look green. its NOT, i cant figure out why the camera does this. only seems to happen to the xpl-hi 4000k which is weird.

I’ve experienced this with XP-L HI 4000K as well. I picked up a few from Mouser a while back and they are easily some of the rosiest 4000K LEDs I’ve ever seen. However, when I try to photograph them they always come out looking extremely green.

It must have something to do with the spectrum that Cree’s phosphors are emitting and the sensitivity of the digital camera sensor to different wavelengths.

m47mu74nt
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NeutralFan wrote:
m47mu74nt wrote:
Ghetto reflow with tealight candle of 3 Samsung LH351D 2700K 90CRI on different MCPCB : It really works great (I was extremely surprised how easy it went!), the hardest part is to get rid of the carbon deposition on the back of the MCPCB after the soldering is complete

Nice job m47mu74nt! Just goes to show how easy it is to reflow LEDs.

To make sure MCPCBs are flat, I put some fine grit sandpaper on a small mirror and sand it down. That would also remove the carbon deposit. I’m always surprised when it appears the MCPCB is flat, sanding it down will usually show some spots that aren’t.

Thank you for the tip ! sanding solves both things at once ! (although I am not that concerned of the MCPCB not being perfectly flat : the NT-H1 is more than enough for the small amount of heat dissipated, and I did not have issues with emitter centering yet)

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Rayoui wrote:
ArtieT59 wrote:
I would also expect dimmer and greener tint for HI CRI (im thinking sst20 here, greener at 4000k Hi Cri compared to xpl-hi 4000k) i would actually prefer the 50.3 NOT be in Hi CRI, i have never understood the need for a Hi CRI throwing LED? If one can barely see the target at 300m, why does the color rendition mater?
I have built many throwers with high CRI LEDs for hiking on trails at night. I am rarely looking at objects 300m away. Nature looks much nicer in high CRI.
ArtieT59 wrote:
Again, the green baton actually has a REALLY nice tint, rosy and clean. But this pic makes it look green. its NOT, i cant figure out why the camera does this. only seems to happen to the xpl-hi 4000k which is weird.
I’ve experienced this with XP-L HI 4000K as well. I picked up a few from Mouser a while back and they are easily some of the rosiest 4000K LEDs I’ve ever seen. However, when I try to photograph them they always come out looking extremely green. It must have something to do with the spectrum that Cree’s phosphors are emitting and the sensitivity of the digital camera sensor to different wavelengths.

 

Regarding hi cri thrower- good to know LOL I just get angry sometimes lol. 

regarding xpl-hi 4000k - THANK YOU. It is literally the only led that this happens to when I photograph it! And I thought I was going crazy. It's like sst20 4000k looks ROSIER when I photo it. Other 4000k like nichia look accurate, but xpl-hi just looks awful, even tho in real life they are some of the nicest leds I have.

also, I wonder if mouser still has that bin? I have come to understand that (I think) 5d-1 abd 5d-4 are the nicest tinted xpl-hi 4000k (rosiest I mean, also maybe cooler than) while 5d2 and 5d3 are more yellow, and warmer.

same with 5a.

 

habk recently had told me in an email he has (had?) 5d2... yellowish I can confirm. 

the Nicest xpl-hi 5d I ever got was from Hank this past February, Perfect rosiness. By the time I got the light, I ordered another with the same xpl-hi and they were yellow. The buns obviously change often. Or hIs do. 

I got some pretty nice ones in my dt8 and bare ones for my E07x from Hank this July. 

both of which I didn't know to ask if it were 5d1, 5d2, 5d3, 5d4. .. 

 

does mouser distinguish which it has like this? Thanks!

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

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> I didn’t know to ask if it were 5d1, 5d2, 5d3, 5d4

you might enjoy owning a tool that can actually measure the Tint DUV of your LEDs

Im finding it very useful.. here is one example, that shows me the Tint DUV of 219b 3500k, which I have always found lacking in pinkness.. now I have a number to show that the Tint DUV is not below the BBL, and it all makes better sense:
.

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I’d like to swap (again) my HD20 spotlight emitter, this time I want a green emitter : as I’d want to reuse the HD20 original MCPCB (that is not standard 16mm) I need a 3535 LED.
Does anybody know where I can find a decent 3535 Green LED that could replace the XPL-HD (or the LH351D I just put there) ?
3030 Osram is a no go as I can’t put it on the original MCPCB Sad

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> Does anybody know where I can find a decent 3535 Green LED

XP-E2 Green

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jon_slider wrote:
> Does anybody know where I can find a decent 3535 Green LED

XP-E2 Green

Not sure it will survive being pushed by the HD20 driver? (that driver should push more than an amp to get the actual XPL-HD at 1300lm)

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Hm…

My latest batch of SST-20s arrived from Kaidomain. These are supposed to be FD2 like my last 2 batches, but the tint on the first one I tried is noticeably greener. Looks more like the SST-20s that came with FWAA. And definitely not FD2.

I’ll have to try some of the other emitters from this order, but I hope all 15 aren’t as bad.

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jon_slider wrote:
> I didn’t know to ask if it were 5d1, 5d2, 5d3, 5d4

you might enjoy owning a tool that can actually measure the Tint DUV of your LEDs

Im finding it very useful.. here is one example, that shows me the Tint DUV of 219b 3500k, which I have always found lacking in pinkness.. now I have a number to show that the Tint DUV is not below the BBL, and it all makes better sense:
.


Have considered slicing it?
DUV should decrease, but you have to do 3 Leds Tired

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