What did you mod today?

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jon_slider
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thefreeman wrote:
It’ll just be a white picture Big Smile

this is a beamshot taken indoors during the day:

(if you cannot see my photos on BLF? here is a direct link https://i.imgur.com/5MXB2ZR.jpg)
thefreeman
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Haukkeli’s monster mod is probably more than 30 000lm, so I’m joking about the resulting picture being simply white if taken indoors.

Like Zeroair’s beamshots that are done with fixed exposure/aperture for comparison.

MascaratumB
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jon_slider wrote:

1. outdoors at night

I guess the problem is more the “night” thing, since in the Nordic countries by this time of the year there is light almost “day” and “night”, so there is no complete darkness Oops

But I’d say that a “close to dark” environment will allow and even better photo and will still portray how good it lights the “non-darkness” Wink

g_damian
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Unicorn 4000K 519a 10° TIR

Opple data:

Original MCPCB is pretty small:

Beam comparison:

Sunny TIR pattern visible on the wall:

LunaLoves
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Copper S2+ with 15A Convoy driver and three Osram CSLNM1 and Astrolux S1 lighted switch

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Nice one Luna Thumbs Up

  

VrestoTaylor
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Hallo to modders here.Please-i try to open the head of Sofirn SC32.New model out now..But its glued..Any idea how to open a glued head?Thanks a lot!!

EDC-Sofirn SC32,Mezzol X8R-L xhp70 nw, Astrolux ST01 xhp50,WildTrail WT3M

Headlamp-Thrunite TH30 nw

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I use 3M Safety walk tape. This is very stick grey rubber grip tape that removes cleanly and completely when done.

  • Tear off a couple pieces and wrap one around the bezel and other around the head. This allows for much better grip.
  • Still not enough? … apply plastic-jawed pliers on top of the grip tape.
  • Don’t have plastic jawed pliers? Cut a piece of 0.032” sheet aluminum and bend it into a U shape, then wrap it around your light above the grip tape. Apply regular pliers on top of the sheet aluminum.
  • Apply muscles to unscrew.
  • Once open use a metal pick to remove the threadlocker from the threads.
  • Do mod, reassemble, remove grip tape.

I’ve generally found that this technique is sufficient to break most threadlocker used in lights. The only brand I’ve tried this doesn’t work on is Fenix. They seem to squeeze a whole tube of red threadlocker into their threads.

For lights where mechanical pressure does’t work you may need a blowtorch or oven to loosen the threadlocker. Then I’m guessing silicone or leather gloves to insulate the hot metal as you unscrew. I’ve never tried this method so do not know the best technique when applying heat.

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Heating helps even if it isn’t blazing hot when you unscrew. I think it breaks it down a little each time.

jon_slider
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VrestoTaylor wrote:
Any idea how to open a glued head?
To heat the light, put it in the sun for an hour or two. or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minute…

then use leather wrap and vise grips
.

or use strap wrenches:
.

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Also important to note to NOT use a plain vise or anything that would squish either head or body out-of-round, because then you’ll never get it off.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

MascaratumB
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jon_slider wrote:
VrestoTaylor wrote:
Any idea how to open a glued head?
[…]or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minute…

then use leather wrap and vise grips […]

I would not advise to dip it into water! I’d say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.

Just my perspective of course Wink

Haukkeli
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MascaratumB wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
VrestoTaylor wrote:
Any idea how to open a glued head?
[…]or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minute…

then use leather wrap and vise grips […]

I would not advise to dip it into water! I’d say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.

Just my perspective of course Wink

He only dips the bezel part. That’s my method also. First whole head of light to freezer to shrink. Then just quick dip of bezel to boiling water. Bezel expanses when rest of the head is still shrinken.

MascaratumB
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Haukkeli wrote:
MascaratumB wrote:
jon_slider wrote:
VrestoTaylor wrote:
Any idea how to open a glued head?
[…]or, dip flashlight bezel in hot boiled water for a minute…

then use leather wrap and vise grips […]

I would not advise to dip it into water! I’d say that it is more risky than heating it with sun heat or even a lighter.
If there is any leak into the driver, it may result in damage when turning the flashlight ON.
Heat and force (vise, leather wraps) = YES; Hot water = NOT so much.

Just my perspective of course Wink

He only dips the bezel part. That’s my method also. First whole head of light to freezer to shrink. Then just quick dip of bezel to boiling water. Bezel expanses when rest of the head is still shrinken.

Ok, I was just being cautious with that, because for someone unexperienced, it may result in failure. Thumbs Up

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I also use the boiling water method but the parts are in a plastic bag when they are dipped in the water. I’m pretty sure jon_slider also uses this method.

VrestoTaylor
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I will try it today.But the usb port is there…Need to be carefull,..

EDC-Sofirn SC32,Mezzol X8R-L xhp70 nw, Astrolux ST01 xhp50,WildTrail WT3M

Headlamp-Thrunite TH30 nw

jon_slider
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VrestoTaylor wrote:
I will try it today.But the usb port is there…Need to be carefull,..
Just Dip the Tip… or use protection Innocent
MascaratumB
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jon_slider wrote:
VrestoTaylor wrote:
I will try it today.But the usb port is there…Need to be carefull,..
Just Dip the Tip… or use protection Innocent

Big Smile Evil
LunaLoves
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Tried out a weird Osram emitter (S2WN) in my S2+

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Swapped Convoy 519A 4500Ks into my Jaxman i2, YLP Unicorn, and Lumzoo GH10

VrestoTaylor
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So its done.Sofirn Sc32 reflowed with xhp50.2.Its a little pocket rocket.Interesting that the optic is fit with xhp as it was fit with the original sst40.And the size is pretty different.Shines brutally good.Hot on turbo after 15 seconds but its the smallest xhp50 torch i know about..Maybe any Eagletac model.But this is pretty small.10 cm..Nice model really small and bright.Now a hot rod.Sadly i dont know how to post pics here.Iam in the forest.And its briiight

EDC-Sofirn SC32,Mezzol X8R-L xhp70 nw, Astrolux ST01 xhp50,WildTrail WT3M

Headlamp-Thrunite TH30 nw

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I did my first spring bypass on a BLF Q8. The soldering isn’t the prettiest, but all of the joints are solid enough. I scraped some of the solder mask off the traces on the bottom board near the screw holes and soldered the bypass wires to those.

Scallywag
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Kakapo wrote:

I did my first spring bypass on a BLF Q8. The soldering isn’t the prettiest, but all of the joints are solid enough. I scraped some of the solder mask off the traces on the bottom board near the screw holes and soldered the bypass wires to those.


Looks great! I believe the next step is brass screws for the board, if you can find them.

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