What did you mod today?

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mattlward
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NeutralFan wrote:
I modded my dad’s cheapo 2 AA wood flashlight. Nothing fancy, but made a big improvement.

First the bluish LED was replaced with a Samsung 4000K 90+ CRI LH351D. Since the entire aluminum head (under the wood) was 1 piece, I had to hammer the driver through the head towards the plastic lens in order to get to the LED. The MTN 16mm MCPCB pressed perfectly into the hollow pill. I also replaced the dental floss sized driver wires with 24 AWGs, but probably didn’t matter since the 1 mode flashlight only draws 0.6 amps.

I have one just like it and have always wanted to do something with it. It really is a nice looking single mode muggle light. Great work!

EDC rotation:
KR4, SST-20 FA3 4000k (favorite!)
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (second favorite)
FW1A, LH351D 3500k (third favorite)
FW1A, XP-L Hi 3A
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
Emisar D4V2, brass E21A 3500k (night light of choice)

Lightbringer
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I made a dog ramp.

Forget the bulldog on a skateboard… I wanna see a poodle on a dirt-bike!

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

bobvoeh
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I made a dog ramp.

Nice job! I prefer ramping up over steps as well.

XXX-Man
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Not today, but did some work last 2 days.

Convoy S2+ copper
3*XP-L HI 5000K
5A Convoy driver
Kiriba copper spacer
orange lighted metal switch

BLF D80
Yinding 30W CW
FET+1 driver

BLF D80
3*XP-L HI 5000K
FET+1 driver

Convoy C8
3*Nichia 219B 4500K
6A Convoy driver
C8TT head
blue lighted metal switch

“The saddest aspect of life right now is that science gathers knowledge faster than society gathers wisdom.” - Isaac Asimov

 

"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censured...the first thought forbidden...the first freedom denied – chains us all, irrevocably."

 

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pinkpanda3310
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Lightbringer wrote:
pinkpanda3310 wrote:
I made a dog ramp.

Forget the bulldog on a skateboard… I wanna see a poodle on a dirt-bike!


I was puzzled at your train of thought but i think i get it now… that’s a bit of a leap… LOL Big Smile Cool

  

Ryley
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Convert the FW21 Pro triple XHP50.2 to quad Luxeon V2 using Noctigon 4XP 33mm and Ledil Angie-S. Really like the beam produced by this optic.

Haukkeli
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Today I modded Emisar D1(v2) Nothing too hard. I wanted to try new gen XP-L Hi(V3 5A) against the old gen(V2 5D).

First I modified regulated driver max current to 7A.

Then I measured tailcap amps with clamp meter using full Sanyo GA 3500mAh battery.

Old gen drew 5,26A with turbo.
Here are Opple measurements of old gen:

Then I swapped in new gen XP-L Hi. It drew 6,94A with turbo so it achieved max regulation. If checking from old V2 1A test it achieves ~1600 led lumens.
Opple readings taken from excactly the same distance for lux comparison (start up ~14 500 lux) :

CCT starts to get colder, that indicates 7A is nearing emitters limit. At 5A it was~4900K. So old gen 5D bin was 4200K@5A and new gen 5A bin was 4900K@5A. Makes sense. Cri is better with new gen and it achieves 8%+ more lux’s.

I think the beam itself was better with this new gen. Better focused and good spill.

That’s all for now
Edit:fixed typo

djozz
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^ nice upgrade of your D1 !

Today I modded a knife, my new Esee Xancudo.

Two days ago I changed the colour of the scales to a less alarming colour with RIT-die:

And today I made a new leather sheath for it because the knife comes with a functional but IMO not so attractive plastic sheath (pic from Bladeq):

I made no pictures of the proces of making the sheath but I basically followed the process in this youtube video showing Bob Dozier making one (but without his amazing workshop and tools)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdGeVGJ_jYY
All I used was scrap pieces of leather, a sharp utility knife, glue (Bison Kit) and two rivets, and for the threading a 2mm punch, some thin rope and an old needle for repairing socks that just fits the rope (made a saddle-stitch). I used a Sharpie to blacken the side of the sheath. As this is my first attempt at it I did not focus on a tidy job, I made it as a proof of concept, but it still looks and works pretty good. I followed Bob’s way of contouring the leather spacer on the inside in the shape of the knife so that the finger guard of the knife snaps into a dent when the knife is inserted, thus fixing the knife in place, and it really works well and feels very satisfying. I was able to make the sheath fairly deep because the hole in the knife allows for easy removal.

jon_slider
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djozz wrote:


Beautiful work!
congrats on your new knife
Geuzzz
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Way better sheath Djozz. Nice work.

Haukkeli
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I don’t have any “cool” knives. Only utilitarian ones. That doesn’t mean I don’t like them. Area that I live in Finland is known for traditional Finnish knife making. I would like to buy one of these one day. Sorry, that Wiki article is only in Finnish, maybe Google translate can help.

djozz
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Haukkeli wrote:
I don’t have any “cool” knives. Only utilitarian ones. That doesn’t mean I don’t like them. Area that I live in Finland is known for traditional Finnish knife making. I would like to buy one of these one day. Sorry, that Wiki article is only in Finnish, maybe Google translate can help.

Those are nice knives!
I get a bit carried away with knives, although not nearly as bad as it went with flashlights: I stick to knives that I think are somehow useful for me, while with flashlights I passed that phase many many years ago! Facepalm .
TimMc
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I dedomed a 519a sm573 5700K and swapped it into an RRT01:
https://timmcmahon.com.au/posts/jetbeam-rrt01-519a-sm573-emitter-swap/

CCT dropped to 4000K and the duv is slightly rosy.

jon_slider
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TimMc,
congrats on your RRT-01 mod and
thanks for the link to your photo tutorial

absolutely excellent info, including the great beam profile photo, and the duv data

Beer
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Thank you jon_slider!

NeutralFan
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mattlward wrote:
NeutralFan wrote:
I modded my dad’s cheapo 2 AA wood flashlight. Nothing fancy, but made a big improvement.

First the bluish LED was replaced with a Samsung 4000K 90+ CRI LH351D. Since the entire aluminum head (under the wood) was 1 piece, I had to hammer the driver through the head towards the plastic lens in order to get to the LED. The MTN 16mm MCPCB pressed perfectly into the hollow pill. I also replaced the dental floss sized driver wires with 24 AWGs, but probably didn’t matter since the 1 mode flashlight only draws 0.6 amps.

I have one just like it and have always wanted to do something with it. It really is a nice looking single mode muggle light. Great work!

Thanks mattlward!

Curious how the tail spring looks in yours. Is mine missing a part holding the spring, or is that just how the Menards woody flashlights were built?

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

TimMc
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A torch enthusiast in Australia asked if I could swap a dedomed Nichia 519A sm353 3500K emitter into their ReyLight Pineapple Copper.

I asked Rey, the man behind ReyLight, if removing the MCPCB would be difficult due to thermal compound. Rey kindly replied and assured me that it is easier to remove compared to the MCPCB in the Pineapple Mini.

I have swapped the emitter in my own Pineapple Mini so I agreed to swapping one in the Pineapple.

https://timmcmahon.com.au/posts/reylight-pineapple-519a-sm353-emitter-swap/

bobvoeh
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I soldered spacers into the pills for 3 Convoy S2+ triple builds I’m working on. Nothing picture worthy. Emitters will be 219b SW35k, 219b SW27k and Cree XP-E2 660nm Deep Red.

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Last week I had some free time, so these things came out Wink

S2+ with triple SST-20 660 nm:

Also recently I got package from mouser with two different XHP50.3.
- XHP50D-H0-0000-0D0UH245G – 90+ CRI 4500K, HI version
- XHP50D-00-0000-0D0HH445G – 80+ CRI 4500K, domed version.

First one went into M21B with Convoy 6V 3A driver, OP reflector and clear glass.

Second one was first sliced, then installed into C8S, H1-A 3A driver, OP reflector and green AR coated glass.

Measured data with Opple Light Master (flashlights were somewhere on medium level) and UNI-T UT383:

I do like sliced 80 CRI, Opple says its 4057K now. Even with slicing, lux are still higher than XHP50.3 90 CRI version. Almost 50 KCD is not bad. However, beams from both of these leds are not as perfect as XHP35 in Zebralight. It’s not visible in pictures, and tbh only slightly visible in real life, but coronas have a bit more positive duv than hotspot.

Album link

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[quote=Haukkeli]I don't have any "cool" knives. Only utilitarian ones. That doesn't mean I don't like them. Area that I live in Finland is known for traditional Finnish knife making. I would like to buy one of "these":https://fi.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tommi-puukko one day. Sorry, that Wiki article is only in Finnish, maybe Google translate can help.[/quote

 

 Yep ...very pretty indeed 

                 υμεις εστε το φως του κοσμου ου δυναται πολις κρυβηναι επανω ορους κειμενη

                            Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

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Vintage Vendome atomizer, mid-century mod ice blue & silver brushed metal perfume (1stopretroshop.com)

 Stumbled across these pics on the internet ... and now I want one .

                 υμεις εστε το φως του κοσμου ου δυναται πολις κρυβηναι επανω ορους κειμενη

                            Dc-fix diffuser film  >…  http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42208

DB Custom
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Djozz, I hear ya brother! Knives and flashlights take up so much space, lol.

I remember, years ago, showing a new light to my neighbor. His wife asked, kind of in awe, “How many flashlights do you have?” I said 30. She freaked, “How many flashlights does one person NEED?” I told her, 31! Big Smile It was always about the next one! I have sold a great many lights, and still have a couple hundred.

Looking through these mods of late, I see stuff like I used to do! Copper plates bearing quads, fuel rail heavy gauge leads running to multiple emitters like a true hot rod engine…. Keep up the good work guys!

Thumbs Up

NeutralFan
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The last lighted switch order I got from Convoy was disappointing.

The Omten switches were very off center!

Just for the fun of it, I tried to install one in an S2+ but I wasn’t able to since I couldn’t tighten the retaining ring. I’ve never had this issue before with the many, many orders I’ve received previously. The worker must’ve been very tired (or drunk)?

Rather than contacting Simon and waiting for replacements (which I’m sure Simon would’ve honored), I took 2 soldering irons, added some flux, and quickly moved the switches to the center.

Not sure what kind of plastic the switches are made of, but is very easily melted. Apparently I didn’t move one of switches quick enough since it felt kind of weird afterwards, so I had to replace it.

I also added spring bypasses and changed the SMD LEDs to make custom colors.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

DB Custom
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Very risky heating both sides at once! The metal tabs conduct that heat to the inside snd can quickly melt down the housing. I usually hold the tab with tweezers or hemostats to act as a heat sink, lift one tab then address the other. Remove the switch entirely to swap the tint leds.

NeutralFan
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Good advice DB Custom.

In the past I had a supply of new switches rather than trying to resolder them. Installing them 1 tab at a time (and still quickly) is pretty easy.

Fortunately I have plenty of back-ups nowadays. Big Smile

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

James C
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Did a few mods to my Sofirn IF25A.
- Sliced the LEDs. I don’t have any way to measure, but seems like more throw, slightly lower DUV / CCT.
- Added some minus green. The tint is now to my liking but I have some 519A LEDs I may swap for instead.
- Modified an Emisar KR4 pocket clip for it. I think this light is a little chunky for pocket carry but at least the clip stops the light from rolling away. If you want to use the same clip it will take some sanding to enlarge the opening by about 1mm. It does become quite thin but I don’t think it will be a problem. The clip is a little too thick for the tailcap to make contact. You’ll either need to sand down the clip slightly or add a spacer in the tailcap. If you add a spacer, make sure it’s no so thick that the o-ring no longer does its job.

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The pocket clip looks really good James C! Looks like it can still tail stand too. Thumbs Up

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

James C
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Quote:
The pocket clip looks really good James C! Looks like it can still tail stand too. Thumbs Up

Thanks! The clip extends past the tailcap by about 2mm, but it can still tailstand (angled and a little wobbly). I think a magnet epoxied on there would be the perfect fix…

Correllux
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NeutralFan wrote:
The last lighted switch order I got from Convoy was disappointing.

The Omten switches were very off center!

Just for the fun of it, I tried to install one in an S2+ but I wasn’t able to since I couldn’t tighten the retaining ring. I’ve never had this issue before with the many, many orders I’ve received previously. The worker must’ve been very tired (or drunk)?

Rather than contacting Simon and waiting for replacements (which I’m sure Simon would’ve honored), I took 2 soldering irons, added some flux, and quickly moved the switches to the center.

Not sure what kind of plastic the switches are made of, but is very easily melted. Apparently I didn’t move one of switches quick enough since it felt kind of weird afterwards, so I had to replace it.

I also added spring bypasses and changed the SMD LEDs to make custom colors.

I wonder if the assembly workers actually have to bend the contacts when they install the switches? I haven’t handled a ton of them but they always seem pretty uniform in the bends and dimensions…never been sure exactly which switch it is because they only say 1288 on them and there are several submodels for that footprint. Looking at their page, lots of details are missing on most items but in the pics you can see that some models have a bend that is very close to the switch body while others are the usual 1.2mm or so, giving a little space. I’ll have to snoop through my switches to look at this. It might be worth letting Simon know. Maybe they had to accept a substitute model and the workers need to adjust when they install compared to the usual, or something like that.

I kind of thought these were polypropylene but they could be an acetal variety, too…they’re not nylon.

Category page: https://www.omten.net/pbs1288-push-button-switch/

Yokiamy
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TimMc wrote:
A torch enthusiast in Australia asked if I could swap a dedomed Nichia 519A sm353 3500K emitter into their ReyLight Pineapple Copper.

I asked Rey, the man behind ReyLight, if removing the MCPCB would be difficult due to thermal compound. Rey kindly replied and assured me that it is easier to remove compared to the MCPCB in the Pineapple Mini.

I have swapped the emitter in my own Pineapple Mini so I agreed to swapping one in the Pineapple.

https://timmcmahon.com.au/posts/reylight-pineapple-519a-sm353-emitter-swap/

Not a very difficult job, removing the pill of my Lan/pineapple was the most difficult part for me.

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