What did you mod today?

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vwpieces
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giorgoskok wrote:
Vwpieces what did you use for the final polish ?

Wet sanded up to 2000 grit and Mothers mag aluminum polish on a paper towel.

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vwpieces wrote:
S2+ “Color” triple got a face lift and a magnet

very nice.

did you strip off anodize and polish to get it shinny?

Nico -.-

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djozz wrote:
For the Ti version, I understand the cooler tint.

(is it flashoholism in an advanced detoriated stage to match the led tint to the flashlight instead of the owner’s preference?)


I think so, but I totally agrre with you…
My S1 alu is equipped with a “T6”-6C from FT and find it too warm…on the other hand my CNQG brass beauty got some XP-G2 R4 7A that totally fit the sweet brass host…
We might have a problem

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Flashy Mike wrote:
EasyB wrote:
I had trouble dedoming this particular XPL V6 1A. I have dedomed 6 others and the dome came off easily after 30-60 minutes of soaking in warm gas. With this one an “outer dome” came off easily but there was a large piece of silicone stuck to the die that would not separate easily. I ended up taking it out of the gas and carefully scraping the silicone off with a blade. Has anyone experienced this behavior with dedoming XPLs?
Yes, me, but not with 1A:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1000859#comment-1000859

Are all your 1A from the same shipment? I ordered new ones and hope I will still be able to dedome them in aceton. I’m not good in scraping at all.

Thanks for linking that discussion; I thought I remember reading someone having this problem but could not find it again.

The V6 1As that dedomed well I ordered a month ago from MTN as bare LEDs flowed onto XP32s. The recent V6 1A I ordered from MTN a few days ago on a 20mm MCPCB. So it’s possible that they came from different times or batches or something.

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Nicolicous wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
S2+ “Color” triple got a face lift and a magnet

very nice.

did you strip off anodize and polish to get it shinny?

Yes, was blue. Wanted the metal switch cap and thought blue was something I could get used to. Nope. I used a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye) with warm water. Works well but wear gloves. Some oven cleaners contain Lye also.

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vwpieces wrote:
Yes, was blue. Wanted the metal switch cap and thought blue was something I could get used to. Nope. I used a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye) with warm water. Works well but wear gloves. Some oven cleaners contain Lye also.

Did you have to take it out and scrub at all, or did the lye do all the work for you? How long did it take?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I wonder how patient are those who are taking off stock anodozing. Have anybody tried to contact Simon to get some bare hosts without anodizing? It shouldn`t be hard for him.

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It’s very easy to remove anodizing.
It’s done with a chemical way , some members will tell you the exact name (liquid used to unclog pipes , i used “tuboflo” in water , that can be found here).

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pilotdog68 wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
Yes, was blue. Wanted the metal switch cap and thought blue was something I could get used to. Nope. I used a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye) with warm water. Works well but wear gloves. Some oven cleaners contain Lye also.
Did you have to take it out and scrub at all, or did the lye do all the work for you? How long did it take?

Clean the grease and oils from threads etc. Or those areas take longer. Time depends on the strength of solution and temp of it. Can ‘ve done in 10 to 15 minutes. Definitely wash and brush it clean after to help stop the future corrosion. Too harsh or too long the aluminum will blacken. The black can be cleaned off with wire brush but its effecting the aluminum at that point. I guess a light acid like vinegar would also help neutralize the Base, Lye. I just wash it with dish detergent with an old toothbrush.

Some other harsh, Base cleaners would work too. Ex

Zep industrial purple, or another called Red Devil. Etching type of mag wheel cleaners may work too. All these are strong Base. Also read on here someone using household bleach. Just do not leave it unattended and do not mix your own solution. Strong base are just as dangerous as Acid.

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I used concentrated Greased Lightning cleaner on my S8 (link in signature), but it took hours, I had to take it out and use a wire brush every 30min or so, and it still didn’t get all the ano out of the fins and crevices.

I’ll have to try lye if I do it again. I’m thinking maybe an EE X6

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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If you use lye (sodium hydroxide) there are a few things to be very aware of. If you have the dry type of the chemical ALWAYS add it to water. NEVER the other way around. Also start with cold water. Dissolving sodium hydroxide in water causes an exothermic reaction; heat is produced. Water into dry can create a steam explosion the exothermic reaction is that strong. There are also fumes released that are not good to breathe. The sodium hydroxide solution will burn skin on contact; very bad for the eyes. I use sodium hydroxide in making bar soap. I wear heavy duty rubber gloves and eye protection. I always mix outside and let it cool before bringing it into the shop. Do not mix in an aluminum container; therewill be a chemical reaction. Use glass or stainless steel. FYI, crystaline forms of drain cleaners that foam and bubble usually contain aluminum fines just to make the bubbles so the consumer thinks it’s working good. Pure marketing, the bubbles serve no useful purpose.

Strange how something so nasty makes great soap when combined with the proper amounts of fats or oils.

If you leave the aluminum light in the solution too long the aluminum will be eaten away. In fact I think when used for removing anodization it will leave the aluminum with an etched surface. Not shiny in other words. I am not sure on that. I have never removed anodizing on a light but was curious once about how caustic it was and tried soaking a piece of bronze anodized aluminum window frame. Yup, it works and the aluminium was dullish. I don’t recall if it was pitted, satin, or whatever.

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If you clean the flashlight very well beforehand and keep the flashlight or lye solution in motion, the anodising layer is removed very evenly, and there is a quite distinct moment that all the ano is gone and the aluminium is not being eaten away yet. If you rinse the flashlight/parts (last time I dunked the complete flashlight in the lye) at this moment, the surface can be quite smooth and be polished fairly fast. The longer you wait the more etched the surface is.

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djozz wrote:
If you clean the flashlight very well beforehand and keep the flashlight or lye solution in motion, the anodising layer is removed very evenly, and there is a quite distinct moment that all the ano is gone and the aluminium is not being eaten away yet. If you rinse the flashlight/parts (last time I dunked the complete flashlight in the lye) at this moment, the surface can be quite smooth and be polished fairly fast. The longer you wait the more etched the surface is.

So it’s best to watch over it the whole time, not just put it in and let it go?

Good info from all of you, thanks. I always wanted a shiny X6, but didn’t want black remnants in the grooves.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
I used concentrated Greased Lightning cleaner on my S8 (link in signature), but it took hours, I had to take it out and use a wire brush every 30min or so, and it still didn’t get all the ano out of the fins and crevices.

I’ll have to try lye if I do it again. I’m thinking maybe an EE X6

Last I checked one could buy Sodium Hydroxide crystals on Amazon.

Also been having thoughts on an EE X6. The Lye solution will get into the deep fins on the X6. HMMM again… I have an Ultrasonic cleaner with a heater, bet that will make short order of de-anodisation. As you can see in this pic, same S2+, de-anodised, but with a brushed finish, before I polished it. Brushed look really showed scratches easily.

There are still darkened areas, kinda yellow, in the knurling. I think that a second dip in the ultrasonic with some dish detergent and touch of Lemi Shine (citric acid) may be a no touch, strip and clean. Should get any discoloration out of the X6 fins because Dish detergents have metal brighteners and the citric acid does the same. Will neutralize the Lye also.

Another thought I have for the X6 was to only sand the high or flat surface areas, leaving the flat black in the fins and knurling. May look cool and if I FUD it up I’ll just strip it clean. I have a couple more X6 hosts on the way, we’ll see what happens when they arrive. Plans for both were XP-L HI single and triple.

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Thanks MtnDon. You did a good job explaining the hazards and how to avoid injury. Better than I could. Be careful.

With the solution I started with one tablespoon to a Quart of water. I have a 1/2 gallon that I have been reusing for some time and not only on flashlight anodize removal. Strengthen the solution 1/4 Tbs at a time if your not satisfied. Warming the solution makes a huge difference in its effectiveness. I have been using an old ceramic coffee cup as it holds the dismantled parts of the lights I have done. I can also just heat that cup of solution in the microwave for a minute to warm it before using. Keep your solution in a plastic milk jug or glass jar. You can reuse it Many times.

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Did some more tweaking of the Atom triple XP-L HI today, now the momentary tail switch can be activated while the light is in the magnetic keyring holder, which is handy.

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That looks more like an EDC ring than a key ring.

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Don’t show your keys on the internet Wink

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vwpieces wrote:
Nicolicous wrote:
vwpieces wrote:
S2+ “Color” triple got a face lift and a magnet

very nice.

did you strip off anodize and polish to get it shinny?

Yes, was blue. Wanted the metal switch cap and thought blue was something I could get used to. Nope. I used a solution of Sodium Hydroxide (lye) with warm water. Works well but wear gloves. Some oven cleaners contain Lye also.

Thanks vwpieces

I have tried oven cleaners but didnt work well and the chemical reaction is too slow.

Will try Sodium Hydroxide but im scare i might do it wrong and it could be harmful

Nico -.-

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most oven cleaners dont clean ovens very well either. This solution would do that better too.

do a cheap ebay light first. Just keep water pan near to rinse the light. Dont use your bare fingers to fish out the parts from the solution. Solution cold is relatively mild and is slow to react. Warming it makes all the difference. So if a cold solution works its too strong, add water.

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Not much of a mod had a x6 host laying around so I cooked it (my first cook)
then fitted a xml u3 on noctigon with blf driver.

the bezel and tailcap changed quite a bit the body and head about halfway.
strange but looks better then the pic.

sorry all images down
thanks photobucket

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For hard to roast anodizing I’ve put parts directly on an electric stove element for different results.

 

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khas
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Today I put together my Jaxman X1 host :

BLF X6v2 Jaxman X1

With a XHP35 HI D4 1A and a 22 mm boostdriver

Jaxman X1 XHP35 HI 1A (left) BLF X6v2 XP-L HI 3D (right)

I don’t have way to measure lumens/lux but the throw is at least 700 M.

Edit : Beamshots


Dawn shot

Control

Imalent HR20 Nichia 219C D320 5000K

X1 XHP35 1A

EasyB
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Both the X6 and the Jaxman X1 have the same emitter? It’s interesting that their hotspots are so close in size.

Edit: oh now I see they probably don’t. The X6 has an XPL HI?

khas
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Sorry Facepalm yes the BLF X6v2 is a XP-L HI 3D edited my post

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vwpieces wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:
I used concentrated Greased Lightning cleaner on my S8 (link in signature), but it took hours, I had to take it out and use a wire brush every 30min or so, and it still didn’t get all the ano out of the fins and crevices.

I’ll have to try lye if I do it again. I’m thinking maybe an EE X6

Last I checked one could buy Sodium Hydroxide crystals on Amazon.


Anywhere to get it locally?

I wonder how well THIS would do, it says it’s 30-50% lye

Edit: This is cheaper and 100% Lye , so I’ll just do that

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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You can also mask areas to keep the ano and colors are removed more easily than black.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Hey PD… in an XM-L2 I love the 4C, but in the XP-L I am really liking 5A3 and in the XP-L Hi I really like the 5A2. I have finally really found the sweet spot for me, when not using a 219B SW40.

pilotdog68 wrote:
Rufusbduck wrote:
… Or get/make a longer tube and use an XHP-50 3D with a couple 18500’s.

I’d rather it be less floody if I can, and I actually plan to use an 18350 tube with it sometimes

I actually just ordered on of the 4B HI’s from KD, so hopefully they aren’t green. I’ll probably put the 4000k XPG3 back in it for now, the “3A” XPG3 is way too cool for me. I’ll probably use it to try a dedoming idea I have.

edit:
just got home, put the 5a XP-L in it aaaaaand… its perfect. No way is this emitter leaving this light. My L2 will just have to wait for the 4b when it get’s here.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

EasyB
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Modded Convoy L2.

OK, I guess this one is not quite finished and this is a teaser. There will be 7x dedomed XPL V6 1A emitters behind narrow TIR optics. I estimate there will be 8000+ lumens OTF and 130+Kcd.

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For a second I thought it was going to a be a single LED Big Smile

Can’t wait for the result.

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