What did you mod today?

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pilotdog68
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So today I soaked a host in lye to get the ano off. I was really worried for awhile because I left the biggest part in too long and it started turning much darker than the other pieces. I though it was all going to be a mismatch. But then I discovered vinegar and some rubbing washed away the dark coating and brought back the nice bright aluminum.

1. Lye and wire brush
2. White wine vinegar
3. 1000grit sandpaper
4. 000 steel wool
5. Buffing wheel and mother’s mag
6. fast orange and water

Sorry, no pics until the rest of the light is done.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

vwpieces
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OH, come on PD. Be a good Dog. I want pics now!

Anyway, I warmed up this ice cold 99cent ebay score with a 219c 5000K. Its the 18650 version.


Just swapped emitter on another one of these. Used XP-L V6 3C 4700-5000K this time. I like it.
Pic of 3 lights

giorgoskok
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Any link to this light vwpieces ? thanks

vwpieces
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giorgoskok wrote:
Any link to this light vwpieces ? thanks

Saw a few a while back put up on ebay as 99 cent auctions. I ended up with 4 total and didn’t pay more than $2.50 for any one.
Got 3 got Gold with UltraFire branding and this VastFire in Black. All are 18650. Did get one 14500 slipped in there too, and I Finally ordered some 14500 batts from MtnE on my last order. Got the Windy ones.

I frequently check “LED” auctions that are “ending soon”. Just gotta get lucky.
Got a few wall chargers with a plug for $1.00 shipped for these lights too on Auction. Gave a couple lights and chargers away with a good laptop pull batt. Nice gift for about $3.50 or less.

Edit: found these on Ali for $3.50
2000LM 3-Modes Rechargeable Mini Cree LED Flashlight Torch With Clip (18650 Battery Not Included) Black Brown Golden 3 Colors
also found a charger for $1
110V 220v Power Rechargeable Flashlight Charger 18650 Lithium Battery 4.2V Charger US EU Plug
These chartgers start Red when charging and Green when done.
The flashlights I have use a 20mm MCPCB. Black Vastfire one I put the 219c into had some 3mm junk emitter ant I had to hog out the reflector centering ring. I think the UF brands have the 3.5mm emitters.

mattlward
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Really basic, but installed an XM-L2 4C in my Olight S1R. I will use it more often now. Next is the S1A… will either be a 4C or 5A.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

pilotdog68
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I’m really frustrated right now.

I’m finally getting to work on my L2, and the driver build went so smoothly I was practically dancing in my office. I tried dedoming and XM-L2 U3 by mixing a few methods, and the emitter came out incredibly clean. I get it all built turn it on, and it works perfectly. I pull the tail off and hook up my clamp meter to get a reading, tap the button to get to turbo, measure 5.25A and… pop. Angry

So I assume the bond wires must have been invisibly damaged with my special dedome method. A bit annoying, but whatever. I reflow a new emitter, and just drop it in gas to let it go the old fashioned way. It comes out not perfect, but good enough. Work s great on the power supply, so I get to rebuilding the L2. I have a short somewhere and I can’t figure it out. 45min later it seems it’s finally good. I fire it up, it works great. Turbo is even brighter than before LOL So I take the tail off to see what I’m getting with the clamp, tap the button to get to turbo, measure 5.4A and… pop. Angry Angry Oops

I’ve never had this happen. Never. Tired

I’m using a Basen cell with a Sir800dp for the first time. I haven’t bypassed the tail spring yet. I can only assume that the resistance of the tail spring kept it from popping in the light, then my thick wire I use with the clamp was just too much.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

EasyB
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That sounds really frustrating. I have heard of some XML2s tending to fail. Here is a thread with some other’s experiences.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36839

pilotdog68
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EasyB wrote:
That sounds really frustrating. I have heard of some XML2s tending to fail. Here is a thread with some other’s experiences.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36839

Hmm thanks for that, didn’t pay attention to it before. I guess now I’m waiting for a new emitter on the slow boat from China.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

Flashy Mike
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I have a couple of XM-L2 U2 on order to replace fake XM-Ls in a 7x SRK. Hope I won’t hear pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop with FET+1 and 30Q …

kiriba-ru
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Flashy Mike wrote:
I have a couple of XM-L2 U2 on order to replace fake XM-Ls in a 7x SRK. Hope I won’t hear pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop with FET+1 and 30Q …

I dont think you will reach more than 5A/led. One 26650 to one led is much more than 4×18650 to 7 leds.
giorgoskok
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pilotdog68 wrote:
EasyB wrote:
That sounds really frustrating. I have heard of some XML2s tending to fail. Here is a thread with some other’s experiences. http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36839
Hmm thanks for that, didn’t pay attention to it before. I guess now I’m waiting for a new emitter on the slow boat from China.

Pd it has to do something with U3’s…
Burned 2 in my C8 , running at 4.9 amps… Perfectly clean dedone

pilotdog68
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I need some opinions guys, or maybe even some data Grad

How much power can I continuously run through a red XP-E with no heatsinking without damaging the emitter?

I mean aluminum MCPCB just floating in mid air in a pill. Can I get away with 350ma? I tested a white XP-E2 at 360ma and the mcpcb got really really hot, but after 2min there was no sign of it turning blue.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

EasyB
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pilotdog68 wrote:
I need some opinions guys, or maybe even some data Grad

How much power can I continuously run through a red XP-E with no heatsinking without damaging the emitter?

I mean aluminum MCPCB just floating in mid air in a pill. Can I get away with 350ma? I tested a white XP-E2 at 360ma and the mcpcb got really really hot, but after 2min there was no sign of it turning blue.

Well it looks like you are in the perfect position to take some data. Smile

The red XPE has a thermal resistance of 8 C/W. 0.35A(2.1V)=0.735W, so the LED junction would be 5.9C above the MCPCB temp, assuming there is a DTP. If no DTP, the thermal resistance might be significantly higher.

I just did some measurements with an XPG on 16mm Al MCPCB at 2.7V and 0.3A which is 0.8W. The back of the MCPCB gets to around 75C sitting in open air. So if your XPE were on a DTP MCPCB the junction would get to ~81C which shouldn’t do any damage.

pilotdog68
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Thanks for testing that!

So the red will run at 350ma below 2v, so thats only about 0.7w so that’s in my favor.

However I’ve heard the red XP-E is more affected by heat, it won’t be as efficient as the XP-G (so more heat?), and there’s leas cooling in a sealed pill than on a workbench.

So with all of that, do you think I’m still good with 350ma,or should I dial it back to like 200ma?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

EasyB
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My pleasure. Yeah, I guess 0.2A would be safer with the unknown resistance of the non-DTP. Is it really not touching anything in the pill?

pilotdog68
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Well, it’s a 12mm mcpcb that’s been cut down to a narrow strip, still 12mm long but barely wider than the emitter itself. It has some small contact with the side of a pcb and the lip of a brass retaining ring. It’s packed in a small space, but it’s not actually pressed against anything.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

EasyB
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Oh, it sounds like there is a lot less surface area than the MCPCB I tested with. I think it should get considerably hotter in this case, so maybe try .2A and see how it goes.

viperbart
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Try some heavy wire to the pads if you can. Heat will go through there too.

pilotdog68
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Unfortunately no room for that, just some 26awg. Maybe I can pot the top of the board a bit, but 200ma is plenty, just wanted to see how far I could push it

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

vwpieces
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Here we go again…
BLF X5

pilotdog68
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You beat me to it Angry

I guess I’ll have to go bigger….

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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Had a really frustrating morning trying to make a 22mm FET+7135 driver with zener mod, using the components from a BLF-A6 driver, a 22mm wight board from Oshpark, a zener diode and a 220 Ohm resistor. I will not go into details but in the process of troubleshooting I must have soldered and desoldered (by hand) at least 30 almost invisible parts to the board. And it never worked. And it was part of a nice mod that I can not do now Sad

To cheer myself up I skipped the project and went on to another mod that to my surprise became a total succes. The host is an ultra lightweight 4.5 dollar AA zoomie: Ultrafire AT-007, one of my favorite cheapies because of the compact build but still good lens and optical path.

*The led is a dedomed XP-G2 S3 3D on a Noctigon. I sanded the Noctigon to 1mm thickness to get the focus right, it is clamped with the stock plastic thingy (that I made black with a marker) over the hollow pill (I love hollow pills Party ), bit of Arctic Silver on the edge of the board for better contact to the rim of the pill.

*The driver is a 15mm diameter Bistro driver, I transferred the components of a Banggood Bistro-driver to a 15mm Oshpark FET+1 board (I believe a design by Warhawk), and it works flawlessly. After the failure this morning that came as a total surprise.

*The tail spring was bypassed, the pressed-in switch-tab received an extra solder blob on the side for extra tight fit and improved electrical contact with the body.

And it works, and does not even get incredibly hot too fast, even on max setting.

Numbers on highest setting and purple Efest 14500:
-3.75 A current and quite constant for the first minute. This is measured with a clamp meter around a thick copper loop, the light without tail.
-450lm flood at start, 422lm at 30 seconds, the high setting appears pretty stable, at least for a useful minute or so . So just 7% drop, did I mention that like hollow pills? Wink
-33kcd throw after 30 seconds, measured at 7 meter. Nice for a just 18mm diameter lens.
-and a good tint, this led dedomed gives the best dedomed tint around IMO.

So although meant as a freak light with too much power in a flimsy host, it just works and is a great EDC, and anything with bistro is pleasant to use Smile . And if throw/gram is a quality for a flashlight, this light scores 0.89 kcd/g (without battery, with battery it is 0.58 kcd/g). Beat that!

Edit: just checked and unexpected by me my Brinyte B158 with dedomed S4 2B has better kcd/g, with battery it is 1.07kcd/g LOL

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Pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop

That’s what my 7x SRK did a couple of minutes ago.

Did some crash testing with this light. Mounted a FET+1 on the empty stock PCB, springs have been brigded earlier, the traces on the tail PCB have been strengthened. There were 6 fake XM-L on the MCPCB and 1 spare Cree XM-L2, since one of the fakes died earlier.

Measured 18 Amps for more than 4000 lumens with old Keeppower 2900 protected, and then I tried my new 30Q. Was able to measure 26 Amps but this might have been a little to much … Big Smile

After less than 10 seconds all LEDs died. Actually I am not surprised, I expected something like this. New Cree LEDs are on the way.

EasyB
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Flashy Mike wrote:
Pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop

That’s what my 7x SRK did a couple of minutes ago.

Did some crash testing with this light. Mounted a FET+1 on the empty stock PCB, springs have been brigded earlier, the traces on the tail PCB have been strengthened. There were 6 fake XM-L on the MCPCB and 1 spare Cree XM-L2, since one of the fakes died earlier.

Measured 18 Amps for more than 4000 lumens with old Keeppower 2900 protected, and then I tried my new 30Q. Was able to measure 26 Amps but this might have been a little to much … Big Smile

After less than 10 seconds all LEDs died. Actually I am not surprised, I expected something like this. New Cree LEDs are on the way.


Wow, sounds dramatic. Was there adequate thermal path and do you think that was the cause of the failures?
Flashy Mike
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EasyB wrote:
Flashy Mike wrote:
Pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop

That’s what my 7x SRK did a couple of minutes ago.

Did some crash testing with this light. Mounted a FET+1 on the empty stock PCB, springs have been brigded earlier, the traces on the tail PCB have been strengthened. There were 6 fake XM-L on the MCPCB and 1 spare Cree XM-L2, since one of the fakes died earlier.

Measured 18 Amps for more than 4000 lumens with old Keeppower 2900 protected, and then I tried my new 30Q. Was able to measure 26 Amps but this might have been a little to much … Big Smile

After less than 10 seconds all LEDs died. Actually I am not surprised, I expected something like this. New Cree LEDs are on the way.


Wow, sounds dramatic. Was there adequate thermal path and do you think that was the cause of the failures?
No good thermal path yet – but I don’t believe the cause was bad heat dissipation, since the LEDs died after a few seconds already. I haven’t opened the head yet but as far as I can see the bond wires are blown.
EasyB
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Flashy Mike wrote:
No good thermal path yet – but I don’t believe the cause was bad heat dissipation, since the LEDs died after a few seconds already. I haven’t opened the head yet but as far as I can see the bond wires are blown.

Interesting. In either case the MCPCB would get pretty darn hot. Pumping 70W thermal into a 10g Al MCPCB would cause the temperature to rise ~8 degrees C/sec.
pilotdog68
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I’ve been reading through this thread from the beginning (skipping every post without pictures Party ) I missed this one in April:

Quote:

Dale, is that a Damascus light in the background?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

lostheplot
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again not really a mod but a combination of parts
a elcheapo ebay mag base and a ultrafire light from gb


usefull I hope

sorry all images down
thanks photobucket

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djozz wrote:

Nice thread-subject pd68, indeed I do mods that I do not bother making a thread about, but have nice enough ideas to report somewhere.

I modded one of these AA zoomies yesterday with a 6-chip AK-47-C1 and dedomed XP-E2 Torch. It lights up but everything went wrong, total failure, bad output. What went mainly wrong is that I sanded down the 17mm AK-47-C1 driver to 15mm (3 chips stacked for 2100mA) but not enough, pressed it in anyway with a vice and lots of force and then the aluminium of the pill was stretched out so that the pill did not srew in the batterytube anymore. Then I sanded the threads of the pill down to compensate for that but it still did not screw in, then I forced it in, ugly, ugly, ugly. On top of that in the end the current appeared just 1.2A, even on an Efest IMR 14500, and the light was even dimmer than that. I have another one of these flashlights, will do a proper mod on that one and report, it is a nice host, with some work it can become a great EDC Smile

Nice flashlight, same good as our one new released flashlight TK4A http://amzn.to/2dr7FmY, Blushing Blushing Blushing

ThorFire is looking for dealers/retailers/distributors from Europe countries and other countries around the world. If you are interested, PM me!

Flashy Mike
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Flashy Mike wrote:
Pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop-pop

That’s what my 7x SRK did a couple of minutes ago.

Did some crash testing with this light. Mounted a FET+1 on the empty stock PCB, springs have been brigded earlier, the traces on the tail PCB have been strengthened. There were 6 fake XM-L on the MCPCB and 1 spare Cree XM-L2, since one of the fakes died earlier.

Measured 18 Amps for more than 4000 lumens with old Keeppower 2900 protected, and then I tried my new 30Q. Was able to measure 26 Amps but this might have been a little to much … Big Smile

After less than 10 seconds all LEDs died. Actually I am not surprised, I expected something like this. New Cree LEDs are on the way.


New LEDs arrived, reflowed 7 genuine XM-L2. Very bright, none of the LEDs popped up to now, but it’s pulling only 24 Amperes out of brand new Samsung 30Q button top. FET+1, thick/double wires, all springs bypassed – shouldn’t it be more Amps? I wonder if the cells are genuine.

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