What did you mod today?

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DB Custom
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The super hot running lights work great on cold winter nights. Just sayin…

The CUTE-3 from Ledil comes in Soft Spot, Medium, Wide, that might be the Medium VW used… the wide has an entirely different apperance, somewhat like a sharkskin texture. I’ve seen the wide optic cut 1100 lumens off a 4000+ lumen build. Wink

vwpieces
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Hey DB or anyone that can offer advise.

Got the Rey Ti X6. No glass. Is there room for it? or don’t bother. Not in a position to preassemble it but can order to get a head start.
Oh, would need the OD too please.

DB Custom
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I just used the Optic, no glass lens. The bezel won’t fit on properly with the added thickness of a lens.

vwpieces
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Thanks Dale.
Darn, sometimes I an doing or using stuff that will kill the plastic. I would like and prefer glass over. Oh well.

DB Custom
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The glass adds what, 1.85mm? I could cut you a copper or aluminum spacer to fill the gap between the bezel and head, then the glass lens would work without leaving any exposure?

vwpieces
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Thank you, will have to see if that would work. Can’t check it ATM, thinking about the O ring at bezel to head.
Also striking out finding 35mm glass. KD has some slightly over 36mmX2mm thick.

DB Custom
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I decided I didn’t want my Rey Ti tube light to be a triple, it’s so normal! So I pulled the pill with the triple Noctigon and worked for several hours to fit a TIR with holder into the head by filing it down, then re-flowed a 20mm Noctigon onto the new copper pill and fitted a Nichia 219C in 5000K tint. The inside spacing is off, an 18350 is too long by 5mm as is an 18650 with the extension, so I am using an 18500 instead. I’ve got Bistro on the FET+1, this one from MTN electronics with the through board positive direct to the emitter.

Beam profile is nice with a surprisingly tight hot spot, fairly well defined. I have an o-ring at the top, so everything is sealed tight. Now to find the monies for all those trits!

Edit: on a modified Sanyo 18500 flat top (I soldered a heavy spring to the top to fill the gap) it makes the following lumens in 5 modes I have set up…

9.66 Lumens
87.98
257.03
600.65
1229.6

I don’t have moon engaged, have set thermal step down which ended up around 40 seconds.

vwpieces
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Getting concerned for you Dale. Are you feeling OK?

after that rebuild you may have had your Ti tube apart more times than I did.

DB Custom
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Well, I AM sick, been on antibiotics for an ear infection from all the drainage. Coughing, sneezing, pretty beat up really, but hey, When you’re down, and out, and you need a helping hand, just grab a light, and hack it however you can….. Silly

I might just cut the extension tube so it allows an 18350 to work, the light just appeals to me so much more in short form.

vwpieces
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Sounds awful, sorry to hear that. It seems that every single person I have enountered since T-day has been trying to get me sick. Even my own family.
As of now they have failed. But back to work tomorrow, and more opportunities for others to try.

Get better soon. I want to see that Ti as a triple again.
Just kidding… Big Smile bout the triple.

Nick

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vwpieces wrote:
Hey DB or anyone that can offer advise.

Got the Rey Ti X6. No glass. Is there room for it? or don’t bother. Not in a position to preassemble it but can order to get a head start.
Oh, would need the OD too please.

I didn’t use a glass lens in mine but with the head screwed all the way down there was still some rattle from the optic…I put an o-ring between the optic and head and it worked.

DB Custom
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My ReyLight Ti tube light is now a dedicated 18350 EDC. I chopped the extension tube to gain that 5mm I needed, made a top smooth band to match the one at the rear.

This spacer ring is threaded onto the main battery tube, it has an inset cut to go inside the o-ring shelf in the head.

I need to clean it up a bit, supper was getting cold.

What happened to the rest of the extension tube, you ask? It’s a ring now! Big Smile

djburkes
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DB Custom wrote:
My ReyLight Ti tube light is now a dedicated 18350 EDC. I chopped the extension tube to gain that 5mm I needed, made a top smooth band to match the one at the rear.

This spacer ring is threaded onto the main battery tube, it has an inset cut to go inside the o-ring shelf in the head.

I need to clean it up a bit, supper was getting cold.

What happened to the rest of the extension tube, you ask? It’s a ring now! Big Smile

Hahaha, nice…now you just need to add a few trits to your ring Big Smile

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Because of the machining required on this light, and the trit holes, the walls of the Titanium are very thick! Surprised me a little. There’s a LOT of Titanium there for the money. Wink

Ouchyfoot
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Today I modded my hobby room. Well, not really, I mostly ran the vacuum around. It’s been a while. I cringed every time I heard clattering from the wand as it sucked up who knows how many lost diodes, resisters, FETs and emitters. You could probably build several drivers with what ended up in the dust bag.

DB Custom
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I need to do the same Ouchy, my work table is almost too covered to get any work done, I’m down to the last few saucer sized sections… and that only because I keep shoving stuff back!

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Cleaning the workplace!!!! Great idea! I need to do that again, too. Maybe I have time until New Years (resolution time)

pilotdog68
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my 4 XHP35’s just came in. Has anyone tried throttling them with FET pwm yet?

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

DB Custom
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You need to talk to Scott. (Kawiboy) Or Texas_Ace. He’s been doing extensive testing with his own driver design.

DB Custom
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VW, I should have quite a few glass lenses from the Eagle Eye X6’s I’ve turned into triples and quads. A few of those I built with no lens, other’s I swapped for UCLp lenses. I have more than a few, pretty sure.

Titanium is horrible at dispersing heat, even worse than Stainless Steel. Building it as a triple is not really optimal. The 1230 lumen Nichia 219C is perfect in this one. Wink

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DB Custom wrote:
You need to talk to Scott. (Kawiboy) Or Texas_Ace. He’s been doing extensive testing with his own driver design.

I know TA was planning to, but last I saw he hadn’t gotten around to it yet. I’ll see if he sees this post, otherwise I might PM him later.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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I tried to emitter swap my Jetbeam II Pro titanium a few days ago.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the bezel off. Either I’m doing it wrong or that sucker is glued tight. No luck with my strap wrenches. Might have to resort to a blowtorch (which could destroy the innards), or pliers (which could scratch up the exterior). Tired

Anyone manage to take the bezel of a Jetbeam II pro yet?

vwpieces
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DB Custom wrote:
VW, I should have quite a few glass lenses from the Eagle Eye X6’s I’ve turned into triples and quads. A few of those I built with no lens, other’s I swapped for UCLp lenses. I have more than a few, pretty sure.

Titanium is horrible at dispersing heat, even worse than Stainless Steel. Building it as a triple is not really optimal. The 1230 lumen Nichia 219C is perfect in this one. Wink

Thank you Sir.
Have a cart in the works from KD but rather see you get something for them. PM sent.
Nick

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pilotdog68 wrote:
my 4 XHP35’s just came in. Has anyone tried throttling them with FET pwm yet?

Don’t burn ‘em

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You could start with a low pwm value and go up .

Be sure to use the same batteries , and fully charged while you’r testing .

DB Custom
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Built a 12mm FET driver for a little AAA penlight, used a 10mm SinkPAD under a 5000K Nichia 219C. With an Efest 10400 at 4.15V is does

0.03A for 5.8 Lumens
0.05A for 9.2
0.35A for 58
1.65A for 311.19
3.02A for 552

Nice step up from the 63 lumens it was making on an AAA NiMH.

mattlward
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Shadow JM07, very weak 26650 tube light. With my new found 7135 stacking skills, I brought the stock 6*7155 driver up to 9 7135’s, changed the small led wires and moved the xm-l2 to a noctigon. Now it is a very good CC general purpose light and sheds heat well!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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I put a 219c R90 SW40 from Rey into an old Novatac 120P. Neat classic light, now with a much prettier beam.

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giorgoskok wrote:
I’ve got a question…
What wires should i use from driver to leds on a triple xhp70 light , with fet driver ?

18-22 awg. Power loss in the wires comes from the voltage drop in the wires not the overall voltage of the circuit. The voltage drop is directly proportional to the current and any open ended FET driver will bring wire resistance into play at the high current an XHP 70 can withstand. Google American wire gauge table, it lists the resistance in ohms per unit length for solid and stranded wires then just multiply current times length to see what voltage you might lose in each wire size. It’s not much but since LEDs are so voltage sensitive even millivolts cost current.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Thanks rbd !

I will look later on those tables. Probably i wil have to use awg 18 , due to the high current.

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