What did you mod today?

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emarkd
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Today I “fixed” my new Astrolux S41S. I held off on this guy because there were some issues, but as soon as the improved heads started shipping I placed my order. The light came a few days ago. Overall its a really nice little light, but it had some shortcomings. I ordered mine with the Nichia 219b option, which is nice of course, but 219b’s driven hard by this little 18350 cell resulted in some serious output drop. They just sagged like crazy. Also, I learned that these little lights come with the original A6 driver, not the new tiny25 Bistro driver. Booo.

So out came the 219b’s and in go 4 219c SW40 90cri emitters. Should have a lot less sag. At the same time I fitted a MtnElectronics tiny25 driver with Bistro and the thru-board bypass, a fantastic driver. Much better. Just for good measure, and because I love them so, I added a lighted tailcap that sorta looks like this. Sorry for the crappy cell phone shot:

One final note: I was surprised to see that the light came stock with a lighted tailcap switch…without the LEDs or resistor. Just bare pads. Its the 2-emitter board like is used in the X5/X6 lights. And of course it comes with the translucent boot too. I chose to use a 6-emitter ring board but anyone who just wants a simple lighted tailcap has already got most of the hard part done in their lights.

Nicolicous
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nice one emarkd

what resistors did you use?

Nico -.-

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Nicolicous wrote:
nice one emarkd

what resistors did you use?

Thanks, it really looks better in person. I should try to photograph it with a real camera. It took some fiddling with values, but I wound up at 120K for the blue, 68K for the orange and 44K (I think, maybe 46?) for the green. They’re really close to even but the blue may still be slightly brighter.

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did you use bleeder for the driver emarkd?

Nico -.-

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vwpieces wrote:
My first 7135 stacking. Thorfire BD04 now with XM-L2 T6 3B


One more for that slick soldering Shocked
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EasyB wrote:
Got the 10158 Carclo catadioptric optic from mtnelectronics today. Just playing around with it on the bench at this point, but it looks to me like it can’t be made to focus properly for the LEDs I’ve tried.

Here is a pic looking into the optic from about 50cm away. Dedomed lattice bright LED. I’ve played a bit with focusing it using different sized cardboard spacer pieces around the LED on the MCPCB that the optic sits on. The outer lit portion is good; I think I can get most all of this to be focused. But there is that ring of dark that I can’t seem to even begin to get rid of with different spacer thicknesses.

Here is a picture of the back of it. It looks almost like there is a mistake in the curvature closer to the center; you can see the distortion associated with it in the reflection of the camera lens. Looking at it by eye, it looks like sort of an abrupt change in curvature. I wonder if the dark ring is associated with it.

The beam looks like an image of the die, like an aspheric lens light, but with a small corona.

The report here mentions how proper focus is sensitive to the exact LED used. Maybe that could be it.

So, I’m pretty disappointed so far. Has anyone else got one of these to play around with?

For those not familiar, here is a picture showing how it works.

Hmmm… Sad
That’s strange..
I think it should be parabolic, not with that change of curvature..
Reminds me of the disappointing recoil reflector in the recoil topic..
And i was planning on getting a catadioptric myself, but postponing it because of disheartening shipping costs..

It’s as if it is not allowed to make an efficient tight beam light with a simple optic…

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Awesome stuff guys.
I just caught up on this topic and i see great stuff being done.
So i just wanna say: Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

I was planning to post something about my current mod, but it’s not that interesting and my camera has issues… (actually the USB cable is failing and it has XD card which fits nowhere else…)
But i’m doing my Jacob A60.
XP-E2 R5 1A on Noctigon and a 6× 7135 driver, which may be a bit much… Big Smile
Iḿ dedoming the XP-E2 at the moment, i use a warmed up mixture of paint thinner and benzene, and this seems to work well.

Maybe i’ll put up some pics later.

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Wow, I did not know that the XP-E2 came in R5 bin, have just seen it in R4. Where did you find it?

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djozz wrote:
Wow, I did not know that the XP-E2 came in R5 bin, have just seen it in R4. Where did you find it?
Well, let’s say i hope it is really R5, but it’s advertised as such here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-CREE-XPE2-R5-1A-1B-1C-1D-145LM-6500K-SMD-LED-beads-Cree-xlamp-Cool/32707363888.html

I say hope because there was some horrible feedback on XP-L W2 he offers…
I saw this after i ordered, of course…

Got some of these on its way too, for fun:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XPC-Q5-WG-WD-WP-107LM-5700K-6350K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590315929.html

Big Smile

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A tiny and quick mod today: I wasn’t happy with the tint offering in the Nitecore TIP CRI, too warm for my taste. So I swapped a 5,700K 92CRI Nichia 219:

Disassembled

The reflector is a 2-piece design, both made from aluminium. The diameter is larger than the centering ring and has a bit of play, making the stock XP-G2 uncentered.

Nichia reflowed and tested

Removed the factory thermal glue and potted with healthy amounts of Arctic alumina epoxy.

Everything back in place

Nice nichia tint Smile

The tint looks warmer than the picture, I suspect KD sent me a 5,000K version instead of 5,700K. But color rendition is excellent specially the reds.

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Jerommel wrote:
djozz wrote:
Wow, I did not know that the XP-E2 came in R5 bin, have just seen it in R4. Where did you find it?
Well, let’s say i hope it is really R5, but it’s advertised as such here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-CREE-XPE2-R5-1A-1B-1C-1D-145LM-6500K-SMD-LED-beads-Cree-xlamp-Cool/32707363888.html

I say hope because there was some horrible feedback on XP-L W2 he offers…
I saw this after i ordered, of course…

Got some of these on its way too, for fun:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XPC-Q5-WG-WD-WP-107LM-5700K-6350K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590315929.html

Big Smile

That shop again …

Both me and Kawiboy have sent messages to this seller in the past without response . (for other items)

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Nicolicous wrote:
did you use bleeder for the driver emarkd?

Yes. I tried it without first – became basically next mode memory. Pulled it back apart and added one. Oh well. I dont think I’ve built any of these tailcaps that didn’t need the bleeder, but others report different results.

djozz
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@Will, that Nichia will not go anywhere, ever!

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emarkd wrote:
Nicolicous wrote:
did you use bleeder for the driver emarkd?

Yes. I tried it without first – became basically next mode memory. Pulled it back apart and added one. Oh well. I dont think I’ve built any of these tailcaps that didn’t need the bleeder, but others report different results.


What value did you use?
will34
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djozz wrote:
@Will, that Nichia will not go anywhere, ever!

After potting it I’m pretty sure it will be stuck in that TIP forever Big Smile

The tint is really nice, unlike any other tint I’ve seen before. Makes me wonder why I still have so many CW lights…

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giorgoskok wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
djozz wrote:
Wow, I did not know that the XP-E2 came in R5 bin, have just seen it in R4. Where did you find it?
Well, let’s say i hope it is really R5, but it’s advertised as such here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-CREE-XPE2-R5-1A-1B-1C-1D-145LM-6500K-SMD-LED-beads-Cree-xlamp-Cool/32707363888.html

I say hope because there was some horrible feedback on XP-L W2 he offers…
I saw this after i ordered, of course…

Got some of these on its way too, for fun:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XPC-Q5-WG-WD-WP-107LM-5700K-6350K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590315929.html
Big Smile

That shop again …

Both me and Kawiboy have sent messages to this seller in the past without response . (for other items)

So did i get ripped off? Sad
emarkd
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djozz wrote:
emarkd wrote:
Nicolicous wrote:
did you use bleeder for the driver emarkd?

Yes. I tried it without first – became basically next mode memory. Pulled it back apart and added one. Oh well. I dont think I’ve built any of these tailcaps that didn’t need the bleeder, but others report different results.


What value did you use?

At first I didn’t use any but it didn’t work in an acceptable way. So I put a 470 in it, because that’s what I had on hand. I’ve used up to 6-700 ohms before with good results. My driver now works pretty much like the tailcap isn’t even there, although it is now possible for me to click too fast to enter the programming. I have to kinda slow down just a bit when doing those 15-or-whatever clicks or it never registers. Not a big deal at all.

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Jerommel wrote:
giorgoskok wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
djozz wrote:
Wow, I did not know that the XP-E2 came in R5 bin, have just seen it in R4. Where did you find it?
Well, let’s say i hope it is really R5, but it’s advertised as such here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Original-CREE-XPE2-R5-1A-1B-1C-1D-145LM-6500K-SMD-LED-beads-Cree-xlamp-Cool/32707363888.html

I say hope because there was some horrible feedback on XP-L W2 he offers…
I saw this after i ordered, of course…

Got some of these on its way too, for fun:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XPC-Q5-WG-WD-WP-107LM-5700K-6350K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590315929.html
Big Smile

That shop again …

Both me and Kawiboy have sent messages to this seller in the past without response . (for other items)

So did i get ripped off? Sad

No . It’s a good seller but they are not responding in messages of non-buyers.

chouster
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Jerommel wrote:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XPC-Q5-WG-WD-WP-107LM-5700K-6350K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590315929.html

Looking at the pictures, it also comes with a nice corrosion spot on the centre pad. Facepalm
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chouster wrote:
Jerommel wrote:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XPC-Q5-WG-WD-WP-107LM-5700K-6350K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590315929.html

Looking at the pictures, it also comes with a nice corrosion spot on the centre pad. Facepalm

that’s not corrosion, many cree leds have that and presumably it’s from testing the leds at production time or some of the production steps involves using heat that’s why you have central pad discoloration

 

giorgoskok
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Changed Utorch UT01’s led , from cool white xp-l to xpl hi v2 3d . Really like the tint and the better throw – flood ratio .

Also , i did the same thing to Thrunite TN12 . Intesity went to 16.5kcd (from 11.5kcd if i remember correctly) , not bad for a tube light !

Jerommel
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Sirius9 wrote:
chouster wrote:
Jerommel wrote:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREE-led-chip-XPC-Q5-WG-WD-WP-107LM-5700K-6350K-cree-star-smd-3535-led/32590315929.html

Looking at the pictures, it also comes with a nice corrosion spot on the centre pad. Facepalm

that’s not corrosion, many cree leds have that and presumably it’s from testing the leds at production time or some of the production steps involves using heat that’s why you have central pad discoloration
It could be corrosion, or oxidation, because it’s where the holes in the reel tape are, and they’re ‘new old stock’ so they must have been stocked somewhere for quite a while.
Cheap too at $5.75 for 20 pieces.
And it’s the last generation of the super tiny die Cree LEDs, so it should be fun in AA zoomies. Smile
First i had to figure out the chromaticity coordinates, but iḿ glad i could choose “WD”, which is 1D and 2A.
They also have “WJ” which is 2D and 3A.
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My Employer gave me a Helping Hand today. OK, Sorta…
They did unknowingly Sponsor this build with parts and time. Nice when the Dept Super is on Vacation…

Idea from PilotDog’s link, maybe, in this thread?
The flex hoses we use on machinery at work. Of course I dug up new ones for my personal build. Found the powder coated steel blocks on parts shelves and had 2 pre-drilled holes in each. Used some MEK to melt the powder coat and clamped the 2 blocks together in a vise till they were fused together. No glue just the PC acting as glue. Drilled the holes to size and tapped for the fittings. Still need to mount up some alligator clips. Base is pretty heavy, enough to hold what I will be using it for.
Similar items sell for $55 and mine was… Umm… paid for by my generous employer. Actually only took 20min to make. Need to remember to a get a piece of adhesive backed rubber pad tomorrow, for the base.



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Well, oxidation is a form of corrosion and yes it is exactly where the holes are in the tape. And Sirius, that certainly doesn’t come from production or testing. Those are LEDs that weren’t stored properly, under too humid conditions or something like that. Shoot the seller a message if you receive LEDs like this. I received a few that looked like this. Used very fine grit sand paper to sand off that stuff and reflowed them right after. I mean they worked fine, but that’s not how I want to receive my LEDs, especially expensive ones. I can overlook that if it’s a cheap LED, but if I pay 7,99$ for one XP-L HI or something, than I’m quite pissed if they look like this and I let the seller know.

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Yet another X6 triple. The baked brown finish was shown 6 or 7 weeks ago. I’m not always this slow. So this is an Eagle Eye X6. First baked. Then the tail cap received a wire bypass. The driver is the MTN17DD NUV FET+ 7135 with Bistro firmware. The triple Noctigon has Cree XP-L V6 3C emitters and the Ledil optic is the Cute3-SS version. The copper spacer is from Kiriba-ru. I used ceramique heat transfer paste between the MCPCB and spacer as well as the mating surfaces of the spacer to head. I retained the glass with the O-ring between the glass and the optic. It seated okay with the bezel fully screwed down to the head.

I have run it on a 30Q flat top and Wow!, it sure is bright on turbo!!

I have not run a amp test but will get around to that sooner than later I hope. I’m also looking forward to getting the integrating sphere and will check the output when it arrives. Right now all I can say is it is BRIGHT!! on turbo and very very low on Moonlight. Very cooll!! And I really like the optics beam pattern!

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Very nice Don!

Did you happen to have any trouble with the MtnE 1.6mm thick driver? On my EE X6 Triple I needed to apply a layer of solder on the outer ground ring, making it thicker, to get good contact under the retaining ring.

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Mine tightened down nicely the way it was/is. Maybe there is some variability in the host?

It’s dark enough here now to head out for my walk with the EE triple.

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My BD04 driver did not come out as pretty and I removed one of the chips because I thought I got it to hot and had a problem… I was wrong, oh well + 3 better than +0!

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Nice build! I’ve got one of those Kiriba spacers here for a similar build but now I’m thinking I may bake my host too. Looks great!

will34
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That’s the first time I see a baked X6, well done!

I got my 2 W2 emitters today from AE. One was 1C and the other 1A, both tints are very similar with the 1C producing a bit of greenish tint in the lower modes and some in the spill, pure CW in turbo… I thought it would be a bit neutral but no. It replaced a XPL HI in a EE X2R and it seems a lot brighter. Now I’m unsure about what to use for a triple build, these W2s or the new XP-L2.

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