What did you mod today?

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ZozzV6
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Enderman wrote:
From the specs it doesn’t seem like it can measure that low accurately…?
Are you sure it isn’t 0.088 A instead of 0.088mA?

It’s in the specs:
ADC:
Range: 0 mA-10A
Resolution: 0.1 µA-10 mA

and 0.088mA is 88µA

Enderman
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ZozzV6 wrote:

It’s in the specs:
ADC:
Range: 0 mA-10A
Resolution: 0.1 µA-10 mA

and 0.088mA is 88µA

The range is from 0mA not 0uA, and the accuracy is much larger than 88uA…
± 0.05% + 2 *
So +-2mA completely overshadows 88uA…

ZozzV6
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Enderman wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:

It’s in the specs:
ADC:
Range: 0 mA-10A
Resolution: 0.1 µA-10 mA

and 0.088mA is 88µA

The range is from 0mA not 0uA, and the accuracy is much larger than 88uA…
± 0.05% + 2 *
So +-2mA completely overshadows 88uA…



I don’t have here the light but the last two digits were 8 when I measured yesterday. That is percentage not milliamps on accuracy. If 2mA+- the accuracy then why it has 3 zeros after point in mA reading?
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Got a Brown (not really) S6 clone from KD. KSH-1224
Made it into a triple with XP-L HI V2 3A on Noctigon from MtnE. Soldered to an S2 copper spacer from Kiriba-RU. FET+1 New ver driver with Bistro from MtnE and a frosted spot Carclo. I like this one (Carclo).





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And another…
S2+ triple
Finally used one of my Hoop retaining ring S2+ copper spacers. Nichia 219C 5000K 80+ on Noctigon soldered direct to pill. BG, BLF A6 driver with 22AWG, bridged neg to FET and bypassed springs. Carclo Narrow Spot under glass. Touched up a couple joints on the A6 driver after close look and it works really well. Gets a tad too hot before the step down but it doesn’t get stupid when its hot. Can’t complain for $3.63 driver.




pinkpanda3310
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https://goo.gl/photos/iy8AyqpcxYjEb6Fr9

Let me know if the above link works. I been working on an SRK/LinusHoffman idea. Most of the work is done but I need to do a few tidbits to tidy it up and improve Lux.

  

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Nice triples!
I hace an X6 triple but now I ordered nichia triple from KD to build an S2+ or M1 triple high CRI light.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Nice triples! I have an X6 triple but now I ordered nichia triple from KD to build an S2+ or M1 triple high CRI light.

Thank you.

Pay close attention to the optic height on the KD set. Saw some good pics (djozz I think) of those and the legs, height and getting the perfect fit may need some work. I have refrained from buying them till I see some in builds.
Here in US MtnE can’t keep the high CRI Nichia in stock. I have been waiting patiently with a couple hosts aside. I have tried a few reflows on triples and a Tpad quad… Richard will do all my future reflows. Too hard to get the jumpers and emitters all right at the same time while trying to control heat on a hot plate. Mine get messy, Richards are always perfect. Well worth the expense and wait.

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If not good I have some noctigon triple board and carlco lens. I can replace the leds if something wrong. Thanks for the attention.

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After yet more tweaking late last night (actually very early this morning) I’ve gotten just so close to my goal of a 300kcd C8, I’m at 294kcd peak, which I’m fairly sure is already the most powerful C8 ever built but I just want that 300. Picture of it at 280kcd over in the STO thread.

Co-owner/Engineer at STO Flashlights.

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Got a ThorFire TG06 yesterday and blew the driver on a 14500 in the first 5min I had it. Driver retaining ring wasn’t tightened.

That’s OK, gave me something to do today. Pill is small and thin, filed to fit and soldered in a copper MCPCB on the underside to gain mass. Also used a BLF S1 emitter in 3D, also soldered to pill. Weighs about 8 grams now. Used a BLF A6 Fet+1 from the same donor S1 18350 I got on a deal. It was worth it in parts, and it was blue.

Replaced the spring with a brass button and strategically placed the wires for the small area to go through the pill without bends. 22AWG are as short as possibe to hold driver on top of the pill without twisting. Bypassed tail spring.



Very nice if I do say-so myself. ML – Turbo it does well on the 14500. My first compact AA size with DD.


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Nice mod, vw! My Thorfire TG06 also has a BLF-A6 driver and warm white XP-L Hi, and I like it like that too Smile

Today just an emitter swap, in my Torpedo 007, from XP-L to Nichia219C R9050 SM353. lost 30% light (from ±600 to 380 lumen @30s on high) but gained a beautiful tint and CRI. The beam with this smaller die emitter is very good too. I do not post all my emitter swaps, but the Torpedo just gives such pretty pictures.. Big Smile

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Thanks djozz. That sure is pretty. I am wishing for a copper prince mini. Will buy a stainless if a really good deal comes.

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Nice work vwpieces…
Curious are any of those resistors on the OEM driver the sense resistor? Could it be double stacked to increase current? I am considering a similar mod to my 06… but I kind of like eneloop compatibility.

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Thanks,
I do wish the TG06 was still NiMh compatible. I will ask for advisement on repairing original driver later.

I am the wrong person to advise but a guess is the R1 (R150, 0.150 ohm value). I wonder how it will effect it’s running both NiMh and LiIon.

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I put a 219C sm305 in my raw brass I3S.
I LOVE the tint, it goes so well with that material !

I swapped my BLF 348 5000K 219C for a warmer one : sm353 (3500K) :

I also put a ZWB2 glass on my Jet UV, after carefully grinding it on my dremel.
No more o-ring, because of the thicker glass.

The difference is really worth it, there’s nearly no visible light anymore and the fluorescence now really pops !

ANNNND because I was in a mod rush (no toddler to interrupt !), I assembled my new SF 348 with a liteON 3535 UV LED and a grinded down ZWB2 glass.
No more o-ring also.

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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Since I love my 348, it became my 2nd EDC (the first being my Olight S-mini in left Pocket) along with my knife.
It’s easier to reach and with this simple stuoopid one mode you can’t be wrong.
However the clip is rather flimsy and the light tends to come out when I pull my knife.
A quick pliers mod and the clip reaches the high end level :

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

dekozn
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I did my first mods yesterday. I put a yellow led in one of my aimai ak02. It was long time ago since i soldered. One tip I can give is: don’t drink too much coffee before soldering, man my hands were shaking… But I got the job.
After some milk and letting my body burn the caffeine I opened up my skilhunt h15. It had a cool white led and I wanted to put in a warm white xml from FT but there was a tine dot of solder in one corner of the led, just big enough to hinder the TIR from sitting right. So I guess I should heat it up and flik it away with a toothpick or something? Also the star is alot tinner than the original one. Maybe I should just reflow it to the original board but I don’t have any solder-paste.
So instead of the xml I put in a nichia I ordered once from KD. The board had exactly the same dimensions. I m very happy with but haven’t tested it with long runtimes since I reused the thermal paste…
All in all i’m very happy I din’t f#*% up and both my lights are still shining.

Idiot proofing something only creates improved idiots.

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Modded a Convoy C8 with a brand new xp-l2 V4 1B & FET driver, total 1700 lumens @ 6amps!!!


₪₪₪₪ ΟΥΔΕΝ ΚΡΥΠΤΟΝ ΥΠΟ ΤΟΝ ΗΛΙΟ ₪₪₪₪

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Great mod Niko Beer . Have you measured the intensity ?

Bonus question for modders : Does xhp70 slicing affects tint ?

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giorgoskok wrote:
Great mod Niko Beer . Have you measured the intensity ?

Bonus question for modders : Does xhp70 slicing affects tint ?

Didn’t affect mine…

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Finally removed the darn lanyard loop from the Pineapple pocket clip and spent way to long slowly filing a loop of 24 awg wire down to about half thickness to take the slop out of the tail button and allow for good tail standing.

The light is now perfect, IMHO.

Matt

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Yeah Matt, same on the loop but don’t think I woulda gone to the extreme of the button and wire. I may file down and resurface the button itself.

I did re-Tool my Worm.

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I did the wire thing as I already had a trit in the tail! Smile I do love that little light and I run it on AA NiMH.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k
S2+, XM-L2 T6 4C

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Did my first ever LED reflow today, and in super low-tech fashion – in a frying pan on top of my gas stove. The target was a Jetbeam µ. Even before buying it I knew I’d want to swap the cool white XP-G2 for a neutral Nichia 219C. Everything went pretty smoothly, but I’ll need some practice making sure I’ve got good thermal pad contact before stepping up to reflows destined for high-current lights.

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I removed the anodizing on my LED Lenser optic Sipik 58. Here it is polished up (right), next to my older aspheric lens with reflector sipik 58 (left). I also replaced the emitters in both lights with XPL HI 5A2 4000K

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been on a modding rampage the last few weeks. I collected parts for the last year and hardly built anything, then put together like 40 lights in the last 2 weeks lol.

Some of the highlights are listed below in the order my eyes fall on them, if you want more details let me know. They basically all have TA drivers running either narsil or bistro

8x SRK XM-L2 U2 3D with narsil Texas Avenger driver making 10,000 lumens
8x SRK with mixed tint (aka, left over) XM-L2’s and TA narsil driver making 10,000 lumens
8x SRK with XHP50’s making 17,000+ lumens also on narsil
XHP35 HI 1504 with 1000m of throw
L2 with XHP35

MT-12 with XP-L2 80cri making 1900 lumens and very little tint shift
MT-12 219C 90+ CRI
Supfire F3-L2 with 219C 90+ CRI
Supfire L3? with xhp50, hoping to get an XHP50.2 to replace it with shortly
L6 with TA driver swap making 6000 lumens in an otherwise stock light, not this last 2 weeks but still a favorite.

SRK with left over XP-G2’s and 219A’s in a mixed tint setup making 3500 lumens
WF-502b, the best looking P60 host I have for sure, with a 219C and 105C driver it works quite well but not as quality as my solarforce hosts
S41S 219C making over 3000 lumens and gets HOT even with thin wires to reduce current, pulls over 23A on a single 30Q!
VG10 with 219C, the best “p60 sized” host I have found, it is a P60 with a good heat path.
Convoy M1 with 4000k XP-L2 80CRI making ~1900 lumens and I truly love it, one of my new favitrotes. almost no tint shift (no more then last gen cree anyways) and amazing output and beam.

X6 Triple 219C, 3400 lumens great high CRI flooder but the heat is overpowering in short order
X6 XP-L HI 3B, 3800 lumens and while still floody it is much more usable due to less heat and tighter beam.
Convoy S8 with triple 219C, one word, HOT, although it handles the heat surprisingly well for the first minute. Great tint and output but the high modes are just show off modes.
Convoy S6 XP-L HI V2 3C, the best overall beam pattern of any of the tube lights I think, the TIR gives it a good run though but they are very differnt. if only it was high CRI.
Cheap little C8 sized light with an oslon square LED with a shaved dome that is a true pencel thrower

4X SRK with XP-L HI and TA Narsil driver. Pulls about 15A and makes 5000 lumens and throws a beam almost 600m, GREAT all around light.
3X busget king SRK. I used leftover XM-L’s in this one with a left over FET+1 driver, no shelf but good thermal paste. Great 2500 lumen beater light that I don’t care about as long as I don’t put high drain cells in it.
SK68 with 219C and TA driver, surprisingly nice light, handles the heat quite nice as well.
trustfire F25 with 219C and 105C driver with biscotti, very nice stainless steel light and one of the nicer 14500 lights I have

Cheap AA light off ebay with 219C making ~500 lumens with a 14500 with just an emitter swap
Lumintop tool with 219C D320 making a bit over 500 lumens with a 10440, just emitter swap
Fake hugsby XP-1 with XP-L2 emitter swap making 650 lumens on a 10440

Lots and lots of Convoy S2 and S2+ builds in all shapes and sizes, XP-L2, XP-L hi, Triples, lots of 219C’s TIR optics, reflectors, Mixed tint, de-shrouded bezels, lighted tailcaps, you name it. Think I built like 10 of them.

There are lots more cheap lights or lights that didn’t make a big impression on me but that is the quick version. I think I have officially “completed” my collection of budget and cheap lights that I know about. Well except for a jaxman Z1 or cometa, I want one of those. Everything else I want moves out of the budget realme and thus will have to wait till I have more funds then I do now.

That is unless someone knows of some super duper light I simply must have.

I can’t wait for the 90CRI XP-L2’s to come out. If the M1 is an indication of what they will be like I can see me changing over to them in many many lights moving forward.

kramer5150
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WOW!! thats like a lifetime of DIY for me.

Texas_Ace
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lol, well it was a year of parts collecting that lead up to that. I generally collect parts, and knowledge for an extended period and then have everything come together very quickly once I move into the “doing” stage.

Going through all of my lights today and sorting out the cells and so on then going to spread them around where they will be the best positioned to be used and I think it will have been a very effective collection of lights, if not a bit overkill. I am Texan, what do you expect? lol.

Although I am now looking bigger for future lights, thinking a 50k lumen would be fun and even have some ideas on a 100k lumen monster light but those will have to wait for quite awhile.

Mike C
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I modded a cardboard box.

The box prior to the mod:

The box after the mod:

Quite a useful little box now.

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