What did you mod today?

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MtnDon
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Messing with the optics again. I see there are two different types that I have, the ones with the white plastic holders, or sheels, and one without. The ones that need to be popped out of the holder fit into the S15 as they are. The optics that came w/o a holder are slightly too long or too high. The bezel starts onto the body but will not tighten down. I have the 45 degree fitted and it will need sanding or cutting a little to permit the bezel to be tightened down.

18sixfifty
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Since another member asked me to take a pic I figured I'd share it here as well. This is the copper washer I used to mount the driver to. The spots removed around the edges are there so that the original driver holder can be screwed down on top of this. Luckily the screws are plenty long enough. The inside of the washer was also filed out by hand so the driver would fit correctly. Worked great.

 

I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.

-X3-
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@MtnDon :
I like my 60° TIR modded S10RIII. I put a 7A XM-L2, for indoor use I love warm tints.
TIR are great at diffusing light, this one is mostly used in moonlight mode for checking my baby’s diaper midnight.

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

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MtnDon
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That’s great… last night I popped the 60 degree into my S10R. It is perfect for some uses, but I like the 45 and 25 for other things. I think the 25 will be my EDC. For now at least. Very easy to swap them. The S10R with the 60 does make a very nice ML light for moving about dark rooms.

Can never have too many lights I guess. Smile

LightRider
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I finished up my first mod thread yesterday if anyone is interested. Smile

Polished S41s, H17F+, High Current, High CRI

Yokiamy
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Took out the driver from the S2+ pill, which was quite difficult, since the solder was not adsorbed well by the braid wire.
Then i managed to solder the S2+ spacer for the triple build to pill.
I used flux for copper water supply and heated the pill on an electric heating plate which went really well.
Still waiting for the Mcpcb with optics to finish the build.



steel_1024
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dual switch

Sorry for my poor english.

Blackdragon1230
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I recieved my order from LEDDNA yesterday and this morning i did my second mod on my S2+, i changed out the reflector for a 10 degree TIR optic….. what a difference. At first i took it out of the cell holder and used it, but the beam looked a bit lopsided. I couldent to get the led to center up, so i took it all back apart and Dremeled the TIR holder down to fit in and set it back in, and that fixed the problem. I have to say i really like TIR optics now, so i will have to buy another S2+ and set it up with a 60 degree optic.

djozz
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Well done, Steel! Every time I see a tterev colour light build I admire the work that is in it.

Today I tried to love the Eagle Eye X7 and failed at it.

First I checked what the XHP50.2 looked through the X7 reflector, got it almost right by sanding the base of the reflector a bit and push it tight against the ledboard without centerpiece. It was ok, but then I reassembled the light with the original XM-L2 and that beam was so nice and smooth in comparison that I decided that it was not meant for the XHP50.2 after all.

So I modded it with a 90CRI T3 7A4 XM-L2 (from Kaidomain, this emitter is highly under-appreciated, if you are into warm light: this is a gem, both tint and colour rendering are wonderful, get them while they last!!). I used the original driver but soldered two R100’s on top of the two existing R140’s for a bit more current. Bypassed both springs and used a dark green tailcap for extra flair. The output on high is 940 lumen now (in that great tint!), must be about 4 amps. Mid is 340lm, low is 10lm. The extra resistors messed up the modes a bit, it is now low-med-high-high, with memory, the two high’s are both 940lm. Double-click for strobe. I can not find any visible PWM.

So now I have made the X7 into something I really should like, rock-solid light, great beam, great tint, great output, and I still don’t like it, the design just puts me off Sad

So if anyone is interested, I will sell it for the cost of the parts plus shipping, so parts is about $20, plus $7.20 for Netherlands or $10.30 for EU. (~$20 for the rest of the world but I guess that is not an option for anyone)

Btw, the battery tube is narrow, my Keeppower 4200mAh IMR fits but the 5000mAh Liitokala does not fit.

Edness
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S41S with XP-L HI V3 3C and 17DDm/bistro. Bypassed tail spring….arctic silver thermo paste.

Measured 13.8a at the tail. This thing gets hot in 10 seconds! Even with the optics, it gained some throw with the new emitters.

This was my first reflow ever and it’s easier than I thought. I heated up the mcpcb with my soldering iron and the reflow took less than 2 minutes.

LightRider
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Edness wrote:
S41S with XP-L HI V3 3C and 17DDm/bistro. Bypassed tail spring….arctic silver thermo paste.

Measured 13.8a at the tail. This thing gets hot in 10 seconds! Even with the optics, it gained some throw with the new emitters.

This was my first reflow ever and it’s easier than I thought. I heated up the mcpcb with my soldering iron and the reflow took less than 2 minutes.

!https://s5.postimg.org/5681729t3/IMG_3837.jpg!

Nice! Do you find the optics reach all the way to the emitters on yours?

Edness
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LightRider wrote:
Edness wrote:
S41S with XP-L HI V3 3C and 17DDm/bistro. Bypassed tail spring….arctic silver thermo paste.

Measured 13.8a at the tail. This thing gets hot in 10 seconds! Even with the optics, it gained some throw with the new emitters.

This was my first reflow ever and it’s easier than I thought. I heated up the mcpcb with my soldering iron and the reflow took less than 2 minutes.

!https://s5.postimg.org/5681729t3/IMG_3837.jpg!

Nice! Do you find the optics reach all the way to the emitters on yours?

The optics’ touching the top of the emitters, I did confirm when i put them in. I have the updated head if that matters.

MRsDNF
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Just commenting to say there some really nice mods going on here. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

lumenzilla
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steel_1024 wrote:
dual switch

!https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4159/34361859526_54ec6b8e22_z.jpg!

Fantastic mods!

djozz
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Today I swapped the led in my new Jetbeam E10R.

The hard part was getting the bezel off, it was glued tight and needed a lot of bravery and near-demolishing of the flashlight. I got it off by 1) clamping the flashlight in a vice (the flat bits on the head were clamped in), 2) heating up the bezel fast and very hot with a small blowr torch with hot flame (more moderate heating with a small flame did not work), 3)after heating up wrapping the very hot bezel very fast and tight in a strip of inner tire and applying lots of force by hand. As you can see in the picture, the centering piece is partly melted, and cracked (but still very functional luckily).

It now has a Nichia 219B V1 sw45 R9080. Lost lots of light: currently on a 14500 high=350lm med=30lm low=2.5lm. This light has a great mode spacing IMO! The beam profile with this led is still very good and the tint, well.. Love

Btw, the AR lens is slightly brown-ish and the tint looses (estimated by eye) a few hundred Kelvin because of that. Eventually I will try to find a non-coated 15mm lens for it

djozz
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CRX wrote:
Always good to win the fight Smile

What always helps winning the fight is starting it by telling the light that you are prepared to kill it if needed Angry
LightRider
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CRX wrote:
Yes I have used such words often LOL

The hard part is having to back your words and provide the nessasary discipline. I have found the lights don’t respond either way so I stopped with the threats. I’ve saved a couple lights this way. Big Smile

CRX
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I usually follow through being a man of my word, lost one or two thay way.
I warned them… Big Smile

Rufusbduck
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Speak softly and carry a big hammer. I don’t threaten, I act. Then I start over. Being a carpenter my aim is better than average but they don’t know that. I think it’s more humane they don’t know what’s coming. Innocent

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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More like a hack than a mod. And another case of polishing a turd from me, LoL.
This is the pill of one of those el cheapo Ultrafire zoomies. Originally it’s hollow, with just a tiny ledge for the star to sit on. So I filed a 5 cent coin and drilled two holes in it.

Before the hack, at 3 amps, in my usual ceiling test I got about a 4-5% drop in luminosity after 30 secs, and 10% after 5 minutes. According to Cree’s data that’s about 47ºC after 30 secs and 70ºC after 5 mins.
With the hack in place I measured a 6% drop in the output, give or take, after 5 minutes. That’s supposed to be about 55ºC, so a whooping 15ºC of improvement there

All in all:

Before: 47ºC after 30 secs, 70ºC after 5 mins
After: 39ºC after 30 secs, 55ºC after 5 mins

BobbyMK
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Today three of my lights that where using 105C/D drivers with that crappy stock firmware got a new life.

Convoy C8 with dedomed xp-g2 led running on 12 7135 chips
Convoy S2+ with Nichia 219C led running on 8 7135 chips
UF SK98 with dedomed xp-g2 led running on 6 7135 chips

I flashed their drivers with biscotti firmware. It was first time i did something like this so i may say that i leveled up my skills. Following some instructions that i found here on this forum made this much easier than expected, 10/10 Smile

Here is one picture of my setup

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

EasyB
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Nice job BobbyMK. FW editing and flashing was sort of a leap for me, but as you said it really wasn’t too hard with the documentation on the forum. It really opens up a new area of customization.

Rufusbduck
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A few odds and sods. Successfully rolled and brazed .25mm sheet brass into an 18650 tube for woodifying the thinner 18650 host tubes that are only ~20mm OD at the o-ring lands(S2+, X6, E2L, etc). Also a few coats of epoxy on a mahogany tube and filled a custom copper C8 spacer with an aluminum slug tapped so it can be screwed to the stock pill(old style).

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Today, I finally did a mod where I could use a Khatod quad optic, which is quite a bit taller than the Carclo. Astrolux K01. Removed the reflector and single MCPCB (which, oddly, was a 16mm DTP copper, even though the cavity can take a 20mm) and measured it against the T-pad/Khatod and found I would need about a 5mm spacer. I had an S2+ copper spacer from Mtn, but it was closer to 10mm. I managed to grind and file it down to an appropriate thickness.it slid in nice and snug with a little Antec 7 diamond thermal compound.. I had to grind the bottom half of the legs on the optic to match the MCPCB, which didn’t leave much material, but enough, to fit in to the pill.
For now, I just reused the stock driver and wires.
I am extremely pleased with the result! The only T-pad I had already populated had some XP-G3 S5 3A. These optics are, as I had hoped, way more narrow than a 10507 Carclo. It is almost as narrow as the stock reflector, but has 4 LED’s feeding the spot!
I can’t wait to check it out in the dark!
I’ll probably swap the driver out eventually for something with active thermal management and do a spring bypass in the tail, but I’m real happy with the way it turned out!

EasyB
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A teaser for a scratch-build I’m planning. It will be a 7x C8 reflector light with dedomed XPL emitters. 125mm diameter head. 2s 26650; the same electrical setup as my 7xXPL convoy L2. The drawing is actual size, with a convoy C8 for scale.

A drawing of the head, with my 7xXPL L2 for scale.

Should do around 9000 lumens OTF and 800+ Kcd. Made from “off the shelf” aluminum plate and tubing.

NeutralFan
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That will be one heck of a flashlight EasyB! Looking forward to it.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

MRsDNF
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Thats scary EasyB. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

WillyD
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After my UF1504 only put out around 200kcd I figured the bottle neck was that dang half inch long solid brass button resting on the tailcap spring. I don’t understand why brass buttons are used. I always have to drill through them. Drilled a hold down the middle and ran a bypass wire up through. Hoping that will at least double the throw numbers. Haven’t taken measurements yet.

Geuzzz
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On the road i3. Dedomed dtp xpg2, Fet driver, omten switch and double springs.

Real nice little light, joy to mod. Still don’t know if I keep it like this or put a 4000k 219c in it.

Tint vs throw, that’s the question…

zak.wilson
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Dedome a 5000K 219C. You end up with about 4000K, lots of throw and nicer tint than most dedomed Crees.

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