Time to upgrade my 35w HID to 50w LED

Ive had a HID light on my bike for a while now, I want to upgrade to LED.

Here it is in its glory: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iPqZOGenLao

I currently have a 50w LED i have been testing with and running at the equivalent of the HID (3.2A) it is still slightly brighter.

My LED is 50w, 3000-3500 lumens and 1750ma.

I want a cool white, warm white is horrible. I seem to like it at home, but for cycling I dont. May just be because im used to that with the HID.

I have came across this… It sounds amazing if true. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321262367615

Its an extra 1000-1500 lumens to my current LED.

How reliable are their claims for output?

I was looking at one that was more expensive so I didnt want to pay double and still have same output
But this is a similar price to what I would pay for a 3500 lumens.

Thanks,

Ben

Chances are that the ebay seller is bending the truth at least a little. You have to be careful with chinese lumens. I could type whatever number of lumens you want on that page, but it wouldn’t make it so. Im no expert on HIDs but I can say with relative certainty you’ll need a new driver.

Check out some of the cree XHP70 builds on the forums. You can get 4000 real lumens, with less input power and the emitter is much smaller, making the light project further (called throw). The XHPs have some of the prettiest tints i’ve seen, they’re neutral white, and it might change your mind about cool white being a requirement.

Welcome to BLF!

That one seems kind of expensive for a 50W module:

This is cheaper…
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10W-20W-50W-30W-100W-Cool-Warm-White-RGB-SMD-Led-Chip-Lamp-Bead-For-Flood-Light-/151913467434?var=&hash=item235ebf8e2a:m:mcZ1BTRg_VEOO2vasgkhqnQ

So I’ve only recently started playing with some of the budget high-wattage COB modules. What I’ve discovered so far is that there seems to be a lot of variation performance… Also, coming up with the 36V High-Current power supply in a pack that will last a useful amount of time, while remaining safe and rechargeable, is difficult. (or extremely expensive)

Thankyou for the welcome :slight_smile:

My HID starts at 23,000v…. No good for LED lol

Yeah I have a LED driver, my driver can be limited by current or voltage. Depending on my needs.

Distance isnt too much of an issue as I use a 1000 lumens U2 spot.

I want something with a good spread to light the trail.

Ive just looked at the Cree. Looks pretty good!

If only i didnt have a CNC’d heatsink and home made case made up id probably give it a shot.

Nicer voltage too at 6 or 12v!

Perhaps I should have done more research before I started building!

I have a 11.1v 8000mah LiPo to power it. Im kinda kicking myself for not buying the 14.8v but there was a massive price difference between the two.

OHHHHHH!! Im really liking that Cree now!

i just love the ridiculous amount of light on that bicycle, replete with HID ballast and battery.

have you considered trimming way back to a soup-can style light? The Noctigon M43 Meteor can do 7-8,000 lumens real floody. And you could flood it out even more by maniuplating the glass.

Then you could ditch the SLA battery, ballast, wiring, etc.

I know that’s exactly not what you wanna hear, being you’ve got some custom built stuff going on there you’d like to utilize.

But 7-8000 lumens though.

Anyway what kind of run time are you getting off that little lawnmower battery you got there? Do you carry it in the house to charge it? You might have to step up and wire in an alternator off the back wheel or something lol

I get a couple of hours out of it. I go cycling about 7pm and come home between 12am and 1am.

My friend fits fire alarms and its out of a control panel, he gives them to me for free. I guess at 2.2kg, he gives them to me to slow me down!

New Lipo is 650g and an 8ah not 7ah!

Im really thinking my current heatsink that ive had made and the Cree LED at this moment.

But my mind is not settled :slight_smile:

That Meteor isnt really an option. I want to spend as little as possible. Id rather buy cheap and make it work.

That light on my bike was a HID headlight kit i had from an old car, poster tube, e36 bmw headlight that was cracked, aluminium and stainless.

Didnt cost me much at all!

Im happy with how long its lasted too! Just want something different! :slight_smile:

The really big lumen numbers come from multiple XHPs, or for really really crazy numbers, look at Cree’s CXB series. Not cheap for sure, and get ready to break out the copper heatsinks and the fans.

Yeah I have a 100w LED on a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo Heatsink, I use it when im working on my bike in the garden at night lol.

So now im thinking as a possibilty…

11.1v lipo,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/201345669757

and

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151955410691 (6v)

My main worry with this combo is reflector though.

Reason for not using a standard driver board means I can set my own current and also means I have on/off, not on/on a bit/on a bit more/annoying flash/off!

2x XHP50 running from the driver if that is possible?

Thats 3A at 12v and should give me 2 hours use :slight_smile:

Can you run 2 LEDs parallel with a driver? Or would I need two drivers?

Yes absolutely you can as long as the driver can handle the extra current. You get a bit of an efficiency boost the more emitters you run in parallel, because each emitter doesn’t have to be driven as hard for the same amount of light output out the front.

Cree’s max drive current is treated more as a suggestion here on the forums……the XHPs turned out to be tougher than expected and they can take a lot more current than you think. Just make sure you have good heatsinking with you want to overdrive.

Its a 80 x 65 x 10 block of aluminium with a heat sink on the rear to dissipate the heat. It will never be on for more than a few mintes, the aluminium block is to soak up the extra heat then release when off :slight_smile:

So now its just Reflectors to use. I need something with around a 30-40mm cone

About those $10 100W ebay leds, they will pull 100W alright but they will not give you the light output that is supposed to go with that power. This guy explains very well why that is. The video is 13 minutes but it gives a lot of insight.

I'm afraid that premium performance costs a bit more money..

I couldn’t have said it any better. Sure a hundred watts is a hundred watts but it’s The efficiency is what’s important. LEDs don’t work like incandescents.

My 100w LED is good for my purpose. I have seen his other video about certain LEDs in the strings not lighting up.

But yes, that was a very good video!

I have to say, I definitely want 2 x XHP50s!

Just need to sort reflectors!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361375697822

Or possibly a fake?

Look at www.mtnelectronics.com. You’ll have to use the international site to check out, but at least it’s gaurenteed genuine, and on a copper pcb.

I cant buy from America. Its too expensive!

For some reason, if i buy from china its all fine and arrives in 2-3 weeks

If i buy from America i get hit with import duty + an £8 handling fee courtesy of Royal Mail!

Ill continue looking.

Thanks again for your help, with your input im already going to have a much better light :slight_smile:

I did also post on candlepower… But when googling the address, i saw a youtube video someone posted of being banned, and in the comments someone said this site was better.

Here we are, approximately 14 hours later and a candlepower mod hasnt even approved my post so i havent had any responses.

On here, my question was posted and i got the valuble answers i needed in i think less than an hour :slight_smile:

So thanks again :slight_smile:

I understand. Just be careful, it’s easier to find fake stuff than the real thing. With eBay you really can’t be sure until you have it in hand.

I am also a CPF refugee. I was banned before my account was ever activated. Don’t ask me how that works. People are a lot nicer over here!