Serious problem with XML2 current. Is this happening to you???

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alberto7
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Hi, my last build is a Convoy M1 + FET +1 driver (from bangood) + Noctigon Xm-l2 U3 1A (from IOS) and i´ve got 4,3 amp
The battery is Pananasonic/sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mha and ths springs are in stock form (not bypass)

How much amps can i got with a better battery (less resistance) and springs mod?

Hope this help.

Alberto.

Mitko
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alberto7 wrote:
Hi, my last build is a Convoy M1 + FET +1 driver (from bangood) + Noctigon Xm-l2 U3 1A (from IOS) and i´ve got 4,3 amp
The battery is Pananasonic/sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mha and ths springs are in stock form (not bypass)

How much amps can i got with a better battery (less resistance) and springs mod?

Hope this help.

Alberto.

Usualy 4.7- 5amps, FET+1 driver from BG isnt a good option though, it has tons of issues: the best battery for a DD fet driver atm is Sонъ VTC5A or if you want best runtimes Samsung 30Q

alberto7
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Mitko wrote:
alberto7 wrote:
Hi, my last build is a Convoy M1 + FET +1 driver (from bangood) + Noctigon Xm-l2 U3 1A (from IOS) and i´ve got 4,3 amp
The battery is Pananasonic/sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mha and ths springs are in stock form (not bypass)

How much amps can i got with a better battery (less resistance) and springs mod?

Hope this help.

Alberto.

Usualy 4.7- 5amps, FET+1 driver from BG isnt a good option though, it has tons of issues: the best battery for a DD fet driver atm is Sонъ VTC5A or if you want best runtimes Samsung 30Q

What´s the issues with the Bangood fet +1 driver?
Anyone know a better springs (Beryllium copper) or similar for flashlight that will be better than the stocks (convoy m1 and BLF A6 Fet + 1 driver) ?

Thanks in advance.

Alberto.

DEL
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Djozz did some interesting work re. springs here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35228

I use the Fasttech ‘carobronze’ springs to avoid the need for a wire bypass.
Not the best, but much better than steel springs and does not heat up at moderate-high currents.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1347100-batterydriver-contact-support-s...

Big issue with the A6 drivers is probably the off-time cap and related firmware. The short/medium/long press duration all gets stretched as driver board heats up. Build quality may also not be consistent. I tried a few and they are OK, but this is with my own firmware and not using the OTC. One pleasant surprise was that the stock wires are silicone-insulated and the spring is non-magnetic (so not steel).
Anyone knows what metal is used for the springs on these drivers?

Tom E
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I believe what Mitko is talking about is high resistance and low amps, compared to other DD FET drivers.

Mitko
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Not only that TOm, i got 3 of those drivers, they lose modes on a random base, they have a moon mode issues that i mentioned early in the BLF A6 topic yet since i do respect TK efforts and the others that worked hard about A6 project i only mentioned it, and yes, they have kinda high resistance too

WHy the hell they changed the design i dont know…whatever

Any reliable source of U4 1A? I have never tested that emitter though

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I got U4 1A's from Cutter - blew out the first one in the BOSS1 (believe the bind wires failed) when running off of 4 EFEST 4200's, it survived on one EFEST 4200. I got two left of the U4 1A's - not many, haven't tested.

For the BLF A6 drivers, I'd think the FTE is suspect, and definitely the caps must be high quality and think they skimped on costs with them.

DEL
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Mitko wrote:
Not only that TOm, i got 3 of those drivers, they lose modes on a random base, they have a moon mode issues that i mentioned early in the BLF A6 topic yet since i do respect TK efforts and the others that worked hard about A6 project i only mentioned it, and yes, they have kinda high resistance too

WHy the hell they changed the design i dont know…whatever

Interesting Mitko, TomE.

Probably I got lucky, 5+ A on an XP-L HI V3 without much effort. The MCU seems stable as well (not using the stock firmware).
But I suspect the assembly quality of the A6 drivers vary wildly.

vestureofblood
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As much as I hate to skew off topic I will have to chime in on the BG FET drivers as well.    

I really thought this was going to be what we had all been waiting for.   A ready made mosfet driver.   Not so much.   Certainly better than anything that was available before, but I too noticed the higher resistance vs ones made using OSH park boards and BLF suggested components.  In a setup that would typically draw around 3.2A I got only 2.6 ish IIRC.   

I have not even tried them with the stock firmware (not why I bought them).   The only UI issue I have had that I know of after flashing with a version of star firmware was a very long amount of time it takes for the memory function to take hold.   Like 10-15 seconds.

Using said firmware the moonlight and other low modes run through the 7135 were great.   All in all still a good driver, just not nearly the ready made unicorn we have all been dreaming of.

OSH is now offering 2oz traces and I will have those in hand in a few days, if all goes well asflashlights will be selling mosfet drivers by next week Smile

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alberto7
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My a6 FET driver is working fine. All the funtions working well and no issues so far. Maybe is the lastest bach? cause i buy a month and a half ago.

BTW mythe driver that i received have great silicone wires and the negative contact ( for driver ring) its bigger that the bangood photos.

Thanks to all.

Alberto.

Ouchyfoot
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I wish I had heard about these A6 driver issues beforehand as I have 15 of them in the mail.

vestureofblood
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You and me both.

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Funny, I held off buying them but finally just ordered 2 this past week, just to have some spares around. Forgot bout some of the issues, specially with the caps. It might be a crap shoot - the resistance won't be noticeable by many, but think the caps have been both good and bad.

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Can the capacitors be swapped out?

Tom E
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Ouchyfoot wrote:
Can the capacitors be swapped out?

Sure, I've replaced then before - pretty simple. Think you should first try out the drivers though to see if it has the mode switching problems. My two BLF A6's I believe switch modes fwd/back pretty good - didn't have problems like many described. Lot of reports they worked fine as well.

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onetrickpony wrote:
Somebody design a driver that pushes amps no matter what the forward voltage. Threshold voltage? Pfffff! I’m a driver not a designer! Direct drive? Do you think I’m building it?

Laugh all you want, most of what we do is science fiction from a very short time ago. I hope it keeps happening Wink

Back in the XR-E days, flat regulation was something people looked for, there were drivers which would initially regulate and then go into boost mode. The driver I put into my SmartFire V-68C pulls 2A out of the battery whether it’s at 3.0v or 4.2v, I’ve got no idea what it’s efficiency is like but I’d expect 2A to kill an XR-E so I don’t think it will be wonderful.

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Question: I cooked a BLF 17 DD FET driver (original double sided version) by soldering the zener on backwards (also used an R100 resistor instead of R200) and running it at 8V. Can this be rehabilitated? Is it the MCU that got cooked, and could I swap a new one in from a q-lite?

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Today killed a dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B from IntO, a dedomed XM-L2 U3 0R from Kaidomain and previously a U4 1C. Next tried  XP-L V6 1D from IntO dome intact survived the HX -1175B1 running on 4 Tenergy D cell NiMH hot of the charger. Tail cap reading was close to 6A. This is in a Maglite 4D voltage @ cells 4.8V+ with my machined custom head with a SR90 reflector and UCLp lens. Would really like to run a dedomed emitter but as-is handily spanks my Y3 U4 1C dedomed resistor modded light and Sniper M24 BLF edition.

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I'm not sure I understand the Maglite/SR90 custom light setup (never modded a Maglite myself), but if the 6A tail means about 6A to the LED, and you measured on a DMM and not a clamp meter, then it makes sense you killed/popped those other LED's. 6A on a DMM could mean 6.5A actual (clamp meter), and that's way too high to expect a U3, U4 or XP-G2 S4 to survive at.

 

alberto7
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DEL wrote:
Djozz did some interesting work re. springs here:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35228

I use the Fasttech ‘carobronze’ springs to avoid the need for a wire bypass.
Not the best, but much better than steel springs and does not heat up at moderate-high currents.

https://www.fasttech.com/product/1347100-batterydriver-contact-support-s...

Big issue with the A6 drivers is probably the off-time cap and related firmware. The short/medium/long press duration all gets stretched as driver board heats up. Build quality may also not be consistent. I tried a few and they are OK, but this is with my own firmware and not using the OTC. One pleasant surprise was that the stock wires are silicone-insulated and the spring is non-magnetic (so not steel).
Anyone knows what metal is used for the springs on these drivers?

Hi, i just buy this springs for change the stocks springs in my moded m1.

You think that this springs are better than the original a6 driver spring?
and for the original tail convoy m1 spring?

Thanks.

Alberto.

DEL
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alberto7 wrote:
DEL wrote:
Djozz did some interesting work re. springs here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/35228 I use the Fasttech 'carobronze' springs to avoid the need for a wire bypass. Not the best, but much better than steel springs and does not heat up at moderate-high currents. https://www.fasttech.com/product/1347100-batterydriver-contact-support-s... ....

Hi, i just buy this springs for change the stocks springs in my moded m1. You think that this springs are better than the original a6 driver spring? and for the original tail convoy m1 spring? Thanks. Alberto.

For sure the Fasttech 'carobronze' spring has lower electrical resistance than the stock Convoy steel springs. They are not better than the spring on the Banggood A6 driver that I tested. Not sure how either compares mechanically.

Both will not heat up below 7-8 A, but a wire bypass is still a good improvement on both if you are chasing amps.

I did some measurements at 5 A over the weekend. My numbers are slightly higher than djozz, but I did not solder to the springs and I measured spring tip-to-tip. The M1 should come with the same springs as the  S2/S2+:

 

alberto7
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Hi, thanks for the info and the image. Very valuable info.

So, i only change the tail spring for the fasttech carobronce spring. BTW great spring have the BLF A6 of bangood.

Thanks. Smile

Alberto

Edited:

Anyone have a picture for compare tint Xm-l2 u3 1a and Xm-l2 u4 1c ?
Time ago i have an Xm-l2 u2 1c and the tint was green so i decided to not buy u4 1c but i don´t know if this cahnge. Anyone can help me?

Thanks to all.

luminarium iaculator
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This thread needs reviving…

Why? If Cree changed production process for XP-G2 emitters they could also change it for XM-L2 emitters.

vestureofblood wrote:
Hi luminarium,

All of the XPG2s I had up till now must have either been from the origonal type or I just didn’t notice the change. However I will throw my 2 cents in. This “upgrade” was not only done to XPG2s, but also to XML2s. Or at least “a” change was made. I never had any trouble with a change in tint, however the output from a single XML2 U4 bin dropped VERY significantly about 3 months ago due to a spike in the needed VF. I tested piles of LEDs from multiple sources to try and regain some ampers, but no luck.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/44376

I probly would not have even noticed accept I test custom builds like my shorty Maglites before they go out on a regular basis. Out of all the XML2s I have used since then I have found only one that tested out the way nearly all of the ones I got off RMMs first reel last year did.

I just hope when XML3 lands we recover some of that nice low VF as most of my builds use a mosfet driver. Smile

So if anyone has lower or he is unsatisfied with performance of lets say XML2 U4 bin emitters thing could be that Cree changed production process for them.

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RMM wrote:

dchomak wrote:
How about hitting one of them with 5-6A for a short time. Won't that permanently lower the Vf of that emitter a little?

Unless you're really lucky if you do that to a newer XM-L2 or even a bunch of the XP-L HIs you will raise the vF to at least 200-1000 volts, which is about how much I think it will take to jump the spark gap between the now vaporized bond wires.  Cool

 

Applied DC 3.6V-6V 400KV Boost Step-up Power Module High-voltage Generator 1pc

Problem solved! 

 

Cheers Party

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I recently got a XM-L2 U4 1C from IOS and all I could get was 3.6A at the tail with a 30Q. The previous XM-L2 U4 1C I got from IOS and RMM when they first came out did 4.4 – 4.6A.

vestureofblood
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The new XPG3s are no better for VF. About all I get for output is basically what XPG2s from a year ago gave. Still again though I suppose since I get about the same output per emitter, but at a lower drive current.

They certainly can be driven hard on the SC5 platform though. I will be posting results for that in my next youtube vid. Internet lumens VS actual lumens.

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Wut? From Dale's results here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/46594, I understood the XP-G3's have a lower Vf than XP-G2's, so you can get higher amps out of them on a DD setup, and every mod he built up with them did notably better. Wut's goin on then?

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Tom E wrote:

Wut? From Dale’s results here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/46594, I understood the XP-G3’s have a lower Vf than XP-G2’s, so you can get higher amps out of them on a DD setup, and every mod he built up with them did notably better. Wut’s goin on then?

I’m also confused, remember that was Dale’s comments…

I don’t have any newer version XP-G2 S4s or XM-L2 U4s to test, still waiting on stock. It’s upsetting all this controversy & what CREE is busy doing at the moment. The funny thing related to the XP-G2 S4s is that Richard did not find any substantial difference in Vf between the old and new S4s? Lots of other findings show different – they’re struggling to push amps? What we do know though is that the newer batch XP-G2 die size has been enlarged, which totally messes up throw figures, which indeed sunk the XP-G2 boat for me. And, worst of all, there’s no substitute available.

Sigh! Sigh! Sigh!

luminarium iaculator
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shrick wrote:
Lots of other findings show different – they’re struggling to push amps? What we do know though is that the newer batch XP-G2 die size has been enlarged, which totally messes up throw figures, which indeed sunk the XP-G2 boat for me. And, worst of all, there’s no substitute available. Sigh! Sigh! Sigh!

They changed production process (bigger emitter dice, the number of dots on the die have increased, the phosfor is rougher (not clear on the picture, very apparent in real life), the tint of the phosfor is a bit more orange with small red bits in it which are absent in the old die, all that results in low current draw, low lux performance, and bad tint if lacquer is not used)
Old G2 S4 2B

New G2 S4 2B

Under UV light: (left old, right new)

(pictures by Djozz)

So same could happen to XM-L2?

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
shrick wrote:
Lots of other findings show different – they’re struggling to push amps? What we do know though is that the newer batch XP-G2 die size has been enlarged, which totally messes up throw figures, which indeed sunk the XP-G2 boat for me. And, worst of all, there’s no substitute available. Sigh! Sigh! Sigh!

They changed production process (bigger emitter dice, the number of dots on the die have increased, the phosfor is rougher (not clear on the picture, very apparent in real life), the tint of the phosfor is a bit more orange with small red bits in it which are absent in the old die, all that results in low current draw, low lux performance, and bad tint if lacquer is not used)
Old G2 S4 2B

New G2 S4 2B

Under UV light: (left old, right new)

(pictures by Djozz)

So same could happen to XM-L2?

Thanks for all your work and reporting on the impacts for the apparent production process changes Li.

Can you tell us what lacquer you are using or recommend using?

I don’t know anything about lacquer, but I imagine the recipes from different manufactures/product types might potentally behave differently optically and thermally.

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