[ENDED] Group Buy: 46mm BLF SRK 7135 V2 - 32x 7135 Drivers - No Drama!

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RMM
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[ENDED] Group Buy: 46mm BLF SRK 7135 V2 - 32x 7135 Drivers - No Drama!

Group Buy: 46mm BLF SRK 7135 V2 - 32x 7135 Drivers

CoolNo Drama!Cool

STAR Momentary Interface

i. What is the group buy for?

The awesome 46mm BLF SRK 7135 V2 driver.  This driver was originally laid out by BLF forum member Mattaus and was later tweaked and upgraded by me.  It is a great driver for those who are looking for a regulated drop-in replacement for their soup can-style lights by providing a good regulated current bump over most stock drivers, along with adding fast-PWM, low moonlight, and a better mode spread.  

A bit more about the driver:

  • 46mm with tabs that can be filed down for a tight fit in almost any soup can/SRK-style light
    • What lights does this fit in?  Basically, if your "soupcan" light uses four cells in parallel with a driver diameter between 43mm and 47mm you can make this driver work.  The tabs and outside ground ring can be sanded quite a bit if needed to provide a tight fit.  A few examples below:
      • Skyray King and almost all Skyray King clones
      • Supfire M6
      • [Please post if you have another light and I will add it to this list]
  • 2mm PCB thickness (fits better in most soup can lights than 1.6mm PCBs)
  • 32x 380mA 7135 chips
  • Approximately 12.1A CC output
  • Input Voltage:
    • 1S (4.2V):  This is how almost all soup can lights are configured from the factory: with 4x18650 in parallel and 3x up to 9x emitters in parallel.  If all of your batteries face the same direction then your light is 1S.
    • 2S (8.4V): Generally, 2S+ is only used in modified lights that are running 2S2P on the input to 6V emitters like the MT-G2, XHP50, XHP70, etc.  This driver has an LDO option and LVP for 2S+, but you will have to convert your light.  This conversion is usually fairly involved and not recommended for beginners.  
  • Separate 1x7135 channel for extra low and efficient moonlight
  • Available with two different mode group options, both utilizing STAR momentary firmware:  
    • SRK Special:  7 well spaced modes with a great moonlight level
    • Simple w/ moonlight:  3 modes with a great moonlight level
    • Simple without moonlight:  3 modes without a moonlight level

ii. Why "No Drama"?

The reason I am calling this a "no drama" group buy is because there will be no negotiation with the manufacturer, no test samples, no waiting for months for it to be finalized, and most important---no unexpected changes in the product, pricing, or quality.  In this case, Mountain Electronics is the manufacturer, seller, and shipper.  All required components are already on-hand and ready to go.  

iii. Timing, Terms, and Pricing

Timing

  • The group buy opens February 3, and will close on Friday, February 12.
  • Drivers will begin shipping immediately after the group buy closes, and all drivers will be shipped within 5 days afterwards.

Terms

Pricing

    • 1 driver: $14.75
    • 2 drivers: $14.25 per driver
    • 3-5 drivers: $13.95 per driver
    • 6+ drivers: $13.65 per driver
      • These prices do not include shipping.  Shipping cost will be determined based on actual package weight.  Each driver weighs about 0.5 ounces.
iv. Participant List
 
To get on the group buy list, please post with how many drivers you are interested in.
 
Here is a list of the group buy slots along with each forum member's username:
 
1. Tom E.*  
2. Bc412*
3. CRX*
4. emarkd*
5. tru3s1lv3r*
6. hank*
7. Jensa41 #1*
8. Jensa41 #2*
9. The Miller #1*
10. The Miller #2*
11. The Miller #3*
12. Beachlogger*
13. kommessy*
14. Flashpilot*
15. Tarvos*
16. KawiBoy1428 #1*
17. KawiBoy1428 #2*
18. peaceandmelons #1*
19. peaceandmelons #2*
20. kronological*
21  Thenitgoesboam #1*
22. Thenitgoesboam #2*
23. DB Custom #1*
24. DB Custom #2*
25. carmantl #1*
26. carmantl #2*
27. SawMaster #1*
28. SawMaster #2*
29. OldLumens #1*
30. OldLumens #2*
31. brightlights*
32. troisanh*
33. leroycp*
34. M78*
35. JohnnyMac*
36. Bribo*
37. Paul R*
38. mattlward*
39. slimkango #1*
40. slimkango #2*
41. Frankie Baby*
42. ReAvenger #1*
43. ReAvenger #2*
44. Shan6oob*
45. MaleNurse #1*
46. MaleNurse #2*
47. vamper*
48.
49.
50.
 

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

Edited by: RMM on 02/13/2016 - 11:39
Tom E
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Sign me up, qty 1 please Smile

This is a drama free zone!

CrashOne
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I like the driver, but is there still a SRK available that is of decent quality?

Bc412
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Put me down for 1

CRX
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One for me.

DavidEF
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CrashOne wrote:

I like the driver, but is there still a SRK available that is of decent quality?


I’d like to know this too. Can anybody make a recommendation? Link if possible!

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Tom E
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Well the SupFire M6 Richard sells is bout the best SRK. I got a FandyFire and another clone needing some upgrading, so not a problem for me. I'm not interested in finding/buying any others, mainly because of exactly these unknown quality problems out there.

DavidEF
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Tom E wrote:

Well the SupFire M6 Richard sells is bout the best SRK. I got a FandyFire and another clone needing some upgrading, so not a problem for me. I’m not interested in finding/buying any others, mainly because of exactly these unknown quality problems out there.


Oh, I was unaware that the Supfire M6 was a SRK clone. I thought it was a different style light.

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

Tom E
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The M6 is a beast, for an SRK that is. It is one chunky monkey, and has a beauty of a driver retaining ring, so no glue needed to secure down the driver. Easy to mod, SS bezel, excellent pill top/shelf for mounting LED's on copper MCPCB's, etc...

I got one I did a ways back and it does like 5000 lumens w/UCLp lens, FET driver..

DavidEF
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Tom E wrote:

The M6 is a beast, for an SRK that is. It is one chunky monkey, and has a beauty of a driver retaining ring, so no glue needed to secure down the driver. Easy to mod, SS bezel, excellent pill top/shelf for mounting LED’s on copper MCPCB’s, etc…

I got one I did a ways back and it does like 5000 lumens w/UCLp lens, FET driver..


So, are you saying that this SRK driver board will fit in the M6?

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

emarkd
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May be a silly question, but e-switch or mechanical clicky? Also what’s the voltage input range?

Either way put me down for one. Just trying to understand what I’m buying. Thanks Richard.

unknown00101
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DavidEF wrote:
Tom E wrote:

Well the SupFire M6 Richard sells is bout the best SRK. I got a FandyFire and another clone needing some upgrading, so not a problem for me. I'm not interested in finding/buying any others, mainly because of exactly these unknown quality problems out there.

Oh, I was unaware that the Supfire M6 was a SRK clone. I thought it was a different style light.

I'd say it is an upgraded version of the SRK, better in almost every way. 

 

... The timing on this group buy is painful. I've spent waaaaaay too much on flashlights and parts in the last month.... But I'd really like to upgrade a quad, or maybe that M170.... Hmm. I'll have to think more on it.

Old-Lumens
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A SRK style light uses an electronic side switch and four 18650 cells in Parallel, meaning 4.2 volt max. 7135 drivers are linear, meaning input and output voltage is the same.

I can attest to the fact that these are great drivers, if you want to make a 3x led SRK into a very bright light with about 4 amps to each led. 

My PayPal address: oldlumens (insert the @ sign here) gmail.com

My YouTube Flashlight Video Channel

The BLF Modding Links Thread 

http://imageshack.com/a/img922/1374/jQ2wdL.jpg

 

Lazy-R-us
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Old-Lumens wrote:

A SRK style light uses an electronic side switch and four 18650 cells in Parallel, meaning 4.2 volt max. This would mean the leds are in Parallel also. 7135 drivers are linear, meaning input and output voltage is the same.


I don’t doubt your information, but when I looked at this GB, I also wanted to know the max input voltage, went to the store and found another driver with a very similar name that stated among its features:
  • Low-voltage protection for 1S, 2S, 3S, or 4S cell configurations – Input voltage must closely match output voltage; this is NOT a buck or boost driver

Richard, can you clarify?

Lazy-R-us

tru3s1lv3r
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Sign me up for one please.

But, is there any way I can get just a “little” bit of drama? I mean, just a twinge of drama would make this deal absolutely perfect!

Aspiring Fhashlightaholic!

emarkd
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I think you two are saying the same thing. If you feed it with 3s 18650 you need to have a series triple on the output. That’s what I thought and I think you two have confirmed it. Thanks guys.

So another question, which is better: 3s cells and noctigon or 3p cells and noctigon?

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Lazy-R-us wrote:
  • Low-voltage protection for 1S, 2S, 3S, or 4S cell configurations – Input voltage must closely match output voltage; this is NOT a buck or boost driver

Richard, can you clarify?


An SRK has the batteries in parallel, 4.2v max. This driver can also be zener modded though, meaning it is still linear, but can be used in other custom projects to use 2S or 3S batteries to power 6v led’s or other emitters in Serial.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

RMM
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Lazy-R-us wrote:
* Low-voltage protection for 1S, 2S, 3S, or 4S cell configurations - Input voltage must closely match output voltage; this is NOT a buck or boost driver Richard, can you clarify?
An SRK has the batteries in parallel, 4.2v max. This driver can also be zener modded though, meaning it is still linear, but can be used in other custom projects to use 2S or 3S batteries to power 6v led's or other emitters in Serial.

This version actually has an LDO option on the battery side so it can be used with 2S configurations as well, with very low parasitic drain.  I don't recommend using this with any 3S setups.  I just updated the OP with this information.  

@OldLumens:  Justin, it is good to see you here!  I missed having you around. I'm subbed to your YouTube channel and still watch all of your uploads. Laughing

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

RMM
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emarkd wrote:
May be a silly question, but e-switch or mechanical clicky? Also what's the voltage input range? Either way put me down for one. Just trying to understand what I'm buying. Thanks Richard.

E-switch.  1S or 2S, but hardly any stock soupcan lights use 2S (actually, none that I'm aware of).

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

hank
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Is this the same driver in the SRK you sell, or an option for including in it?
I’d like this in that, count me as yes for one driver. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...

RMM
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hank wrote:
Is this the same driver in the SRK you sell, or an option for including in it? I'd like this in that, count me as yes for one driver. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...

I usually modify the existing driver on the M6, but this will also fit once you file down the tabs (all lights will need these filed) and work to give you a regulated ~4A per LED and low moonlight.  

Mountain Electronics : batteries, Noctigon, and much more! What's new? 

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Sign me up for two

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3 please

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Will this fit in the Ultrafire UF-T90?

wight
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PPDB22 wrote:
Will this fit in the Ultrafire UF-T90?
Looks like the answer is no. Unknown00101 measured the driver you are asking about in the OP of this thread: Review: Quad XML2 Flooder [Similar design as a UF-T90], E-Switch in Handle (4x XML2, 1 – 4× 18650)

EDIT1: I forgot, that’s a ‘clone’ so it’s possible that a different clone/original/whatever might have a different diameter driver. I’d be a little surprised.

EDIT2: As an alternative it might be worth considering the 9-amp driver shown off by Old-Lumens in this thread: Maglite Twins – Build thread. Beam Shots are up The stock driver would need to remain in place as a contact board. I think that the 24×7135 driver might be able to be installed directly against the back of the LED shelf if care was taken with the wiring. New wiring holes might be required. In any case the heat from those 7135s must go somewhere.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

unknown00101
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wight wrote:
PPDB22 wrote:
Will this fit in the Ultrafire UF-T90?
Looks like the answer is no. Unknown00101 measured the driver you are asking about in the OP of this thread: Review: Quad XML2 Flooder [Similar design as a UF-T90], E-Switch in Handle (4x XML2, 1 - 4x 18650) EDIT1: I forgot, that's a 'clone' so it's possible that a different clone/original/whatever _might_ have a different diameter driver. I'd be a little surprised. EDIT2: As an alternative it might be worth considering the 9-amp driver shown off by Old-Lumens in this thread: Maglite Twins - Build thread. Beam Shots are up The stock driver would need to remain in place as a contact board. I think that the 24x7135 driver might be able to be installed directly against the back of the LED shelf if care was taken with the wiring. New wiring holes might be required. In any case the heat from those 7135s must go somewhere.

About that measurement, that is the PCB which is soldered to a brass ring. The brass ring could be tossed aside and the driver itself be used as the primary contact between the retaining ring and the head. I haven't done the measurements yet, but I suspect it wouldn't be too difficult to accomplish.

I'm also not sure if the UF-T90 is set up this same way in the driver area. Been a while since I researched that one.

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Ok. Thanks for the info. I didn’t think of a slave board

wight
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unknown00101 wrote:

About that measurement, that is the PCB which is soldered to a brass ring. The brass ring could be tossed aside and the driver itself be used as the primary contact between the retaining ring and the head. I haven’t done the measurements yet, but I suspect it wouldn’t be too difficult to accomplish.

I’m also not sure if the UF-T90 is set up this same way in the driver area. Been a while since I researched that one.

Ah, I’ve looked more closely at your pictures now. Oops I see now that the brass ring is adding quite a bit to the diameter of the driver. If I understand the pictures correctly the retaining ring is a separate piece – so even without the brass ring in place the driver could be tightly secured. Does that sound correct?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

unknown00101
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wight wrote:
unknown00101 wrote:

About that measurement, that is the PCB which is soldered to a brass ring. The brass ring could be tossed aside and the driver itself be used as the primary contact between the retaining ring and the head. I haven't done the measurements yet, but I suspect it wouldn't be too difficult to accomplish.

I'm also not sure if the UF-T90 is set up this same way in the driver area. Been a while since I researched that one.

Ah, I've looked more closely at your pictures now. Oops I see now that the brass ring is adding quite a bit to the diameter of the driver. If I understand the pictures correctly the retaining ring is a separate piece - so even without the brass ring in place the driver could be tightly secured. Does that sound correct?

Yep, well mostly. The retaining ring is separate, but going based off the pics (been a long while since I had it apart), the threads may run out before the retaining ring can snug down onto the larger diameter PCB by itself. Might have to get a little creative here. 

The quad xml2 handle is actually the light I mentioned earlier 'quad' that I was contemplating putting this fantastic driver in.

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Put me down for 1, thanks

kommessy
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Sign me up for one please.

Thanks

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