Nanjg 105c + Lumodrv + voltage indicator on switch Help Updated?

19 posts / 0 new
Last post
LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA
Nanjg 105c + Lumodrv + voltage indicator on switch Help Updated?

Update: My plan in Post #12 needs to be evaluated.

Today I dug into another light and decided to swap out the driver with a nanjg 105c with Dr Jones Lumodrv firmware. I planed on using the switch assembly from the host driver and was about to strip it down when I saw the two red and green diodes for the battery indicator sitting there around the switch. I thought, “What a shame to say goodbye to this nice feature.” That brings me to my question. Can I use the lighted switch assembly and circuit along with the new driver and integrate the two into the perfect nanjg/Jones/Xtar hybrid driver?

The reason I thought it might be possible is because the mcu of the host driver is also on the same PCB as the switch assembly. Is it possible to use both mcu’s at the same time? Use the nanjg to drive the led and the host to measure the voltage. Now, I have no idea if this could be possible or not, but if it is, it would be nice:)

Sorry for the bright spots/shadows in the pics, my phone will not focus without using a magnifying glass. If different photos are needed, that is no problem. Thanks for any input!





Edited by: LightRider on 02/05/2016 - 11:25
LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

Anyone know what this circuit is doing? Maybe we could start by identifying the different groups of the circuit. For example: it would be helpful to know what components are used for detecting battery voltage.

dentillozie
dentillozie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 10/22/2013 - 11:25
Posts: 187
Location: belgium

my guess is that is main board (circular board) is the led driver board and the second board (the one withe the switch) is the one that activates the modes and the voltage indicator
The red wire to the chip would be the Vcc of the chip?
the other red and black wires and 2 resistors im guessing is a voltage divider (this is the part where the voltage is measured)
the other black wire i think is the led driver enable/pwm signale.

Could you maybe give us the name of the chip? this way we could maybe find a pinout of the chip.
this chip is what controles the whole driver incuding the voltage indicator. so if you want to use the Lumodrv firmware you would have to change the chip and possibly some other connections around.

again these ar all guesses.
There are guys here who know more about this stuff than i do.

EU based flashlight modder. If you need any modding work done, make sure to PM me!

some of my mods:

- convoy meLd 4

XHP50 Maglite Mod

UF-1405 Mod

TK35 (clone) to TK35UE

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

dentillozie wrote:
my guess is that is main board (circular board) is the led driver board and the second board (the one withe the switch) is the one that activates the modes and the voltage indicator
The red wire to the chip would be the Vcc of the chip?
the other red and black wires and 2 resistors im guessing is a voltage divider (this is the part where the voltage is measured)
the other black wire i think is the led driver enable/pwm signale.

Could you maybe give us the name of the chip? this way we could maybe find a pinout of the chip.
this chip is what controles the whole driver incuding the voltage indicator. so if you want to use the Lumodrv firmware you would have to change the chip and possibly some other connections around.

again these ar all guesses.
There are guys here who know more about this stuff than i do.

If the board with the switch holds the control circuit, then that would be the first challenge completed. My desire was not to swap the mcu or re flash it but to use it as is for the control of the red and green led indicators. The lumodrv firmware is already flashed on the new driver to be installed.

I would bet this can be done, but I would need a lot more help to get there;)

dentillozie
dentillozie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 10/22/2013 - 11:25
Posts: 187
Location: belgium

on a second thought you could use the switchassembly as is and just wire the switch to the 105C.
the mcu on the switchassembly would still sense the voltage but when you press the switch it would controle the 105c instead.

just run the 2 red wires and ground to the switchassembly, run wires from the switch to the 105c and i think you would be set.

i hope you are understanding what im trying to say Smile

EU based flashlight modder. If you need any modding work done, make sure to PM me!

some of my mods:

- convoy meLd 4

XHP50 Maglite Mod

UF-1405 Mod

TK35 (clone) to TK35UE

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

That’s what I was wondering. Can I just solder a lead to the switch contact and then connect it to the 105c?

Here are the markings on the mcu. IDK if it is needed or not?

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

dentillozie wrote:
on a second thought you could use the switchassembly as is and just wire the switch to the 105C.
the mcu on the switchassembly would still sense the voltage but when you press the switch it would controle the 105c instead.

just run the 2 red wires and ground to the switchassembly, run wires from the switch to the 105c and i think you would be set.

i hope you are understanding what im trying to say Smile

Where would I grab the power/voltage from the 105c to power the mcu?

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

Ok…
Looking at the mcu with the two red wires to the left and the two black wires to the right.
The top red wire is connected to led v+. On this driver there is an inverter,, or whatever the round thing with the cool is, between the batt+ and LED+. I think this is because it is designed to be used with 1.5v batteries as well as 3.7. In this application I am eliminating that function so can I connect pin one of the mcu straight to batt+ of my new driver?

The bottom red wire is connected straight to batt v+. If the above question is to be answered yes, then both red wires on my new driver would be connected to batt v+?

The top black wire is connected to ground on the driver ring.

The bottom black wire is connected to a leg of the transistor near the led v-. Is this the pwm signal from the mcu? If so, would I leave this wire disconnected in my new circuit?

If answers to all questions above are true then the result is the two reds connected to batt+ and the top black connected to ground.

So I would then connect jumpers from the 105c to the switch and I am good to go?

:Sp seems to easy to be true.
LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

I guess I will just try it and see what happens. I don’t want to ruin two drivers though:)

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

I was going to try this but I am unsettled about it. It seems to me the the voltage supply to the mcu pin 1 should not be connected directly to batt+. But I don’t know where I should connect it or what components to use to regulate voltage from b+. Idk? I might have to table this one until I can understand the circuit better.

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

I’ve been studying the best I can on my own but some discussion would really help me.

I am now wondering if the top red wire(VDD) of the switch board should be connected to pin 1(Vcc) of the 105c. That puts a diode between the mcu on the switch and batt+. I don’t know what else this would mess with though.

I’m not sure if I am on the right path or not?

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

Will this setup allow me to use the switch and battery indicators from my old driver with my new driver?

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

PPDB22 wrote:
Will this setup allow me to use the switch and battery indicators from my old driver with my new driver?

!{width:95%}http://i.imgur.com/rOFKvBg.jpg!

Any thoughts?

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

Never mind…

dentillozie
dentillozie's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 10/22/2013 - 11:25
Posts: 187
Location: belgium

did you get it working?

EU based flashlight modder. If you need any modding work done, make sure to PM me!

some of my mods:

- convoy meLd 4

XHP50 Maglite Mod

UF-1405 Mod

TK35 (clone) to TK35UE

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

No. I was unsure of myself and I wansnt getting much interest so I just used the origional driver and gave it a resistor mod to up the current. Thanks for asking.

Tom E
Tom E's picture
Online
Last seen: 11 min 58 sec ago
Joined: 08/19/2012 - 08:23
Posts: 14743
Location: LI NY

Must have missed this, but I understand your goal, just that keeping the old driver MCU running with an e-switch setup — boy, dunno. Sure seems possible, but wonder bout the power draw/parasitic drain with this setup. I don’t trust stock drivers for behaving properly, and going into power saving mode while OFF.

To me, seems the press’s of the switch would have to be perfectly in sync between the 2 MCU’s – another words, when one thinks it’s off, the other must think it’s off too. Then again, not sure the specifics of how the stock board uses those LED’s. You’d be better off using TK’s Roche F6 firmware that controls 2 SMD LED’s. It works well and requires only 1 MCU driver, and then all you’d have to do is wire up the LED’s. I’ve done mods like this recently – worked great for a BLF SD 10 (Lumintop) to make use of it’s switch mounted LED, but I modded/tweaked the Narsil firmware myself for supporting the LED, running a Attiny85.

LightRider
LightRider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 years 6 months ago
Joined: 08/05/2015 - 09:52
Posts: 2007
Location: U.P. MI, USA

Thanks for the response. Ya… I think it’s would have been difficult. There’s definately better ways to do it. It was just there and I thought hey, why not. Ya know… I never thought about needing to turn of both mcu’s at the same time. That would have been difficult and I don’t think it would have been realistic to try and do it by “talking to them both at the same time. The mcu for the switch lights would have had to detect when the other mcu’s was switched, or vise versa. Idk? Anyway. I’ve moved on:)