When there are four cells and ample space in the head it makes no sense to make a tube with one charging cell.
As it looks now one can use the led and charging/power bank at the same time
Interesting night earlier with story.
Basically we have interested buyers now from outside the BLF forum, indicating how this lantern could be a big hit with the general public, camping groups, cottagers, and remote locations without power.
Interesting and great your prototy is at this state of design already
What about a modular design later, where several components can be switched or composited as the reqirements of the user change? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Modular_design
Like replaceable electronics (with/without charging function, USB output), LED (CCT, CRI and luminous flux) and battery compartment (1/2/4 cells, 18650/AA).
Interesting night earlier with story.
Basically we have interested buyers now from outside the BLF forum, indicating how this lantern could be a big hit with the general public, camping groups, cottagers, and remote locations without power.
Interesting and great your prototy is at this state of design already
What about a modular design later, where several components can be switched or composited as the reqirements of the user change? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Modular_design
Like replaceable electronics (with/without charging function, USB output), LED (CCT, CRI and luminous flux) and battery compartment (1/2/4 cells, 18650/AA).
as the lantern prototype is now it can run from 1, 2, 3 or 4 cells. ( as they run in parallel and with the lower amperage & more efficient driver set up it will be no problems running the lantern even on one cell. (will just have lower run times.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
When there are four cells and ample space in the head it makes no sense to make a tube with one charging cell.
As it looks now one can use the led and charging/power bank at the same time
Indeed, there is tons of space above the driver in the mid-section to add the charger & USB bank electronics. And if the produdction model is set up with the charger isolated separately from the driver it can be charged while running. (been testing that with the prototype for a couple weeks now.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
If I read the OP correctly, the USB charger you have in the prototype charges each cell at .25 Amps. How many hours will it take to fully charge the four depleted cells, say 3.2 Volts?
I once charged a depleted 18650 cell at .5A and is seemed to take half a day to complete the charge. I love the idea of built it charging, but .25A seems to low for 18650 cells. That is what I charge my little 10440 cells at.
If I read the OP correctly, the USB charger you have in the prototype charges each cell at .25 Amps. How many hours will it take to fully charge the four depleted cells, say 3.2 Volts?
I once charged a depleted 18650 cell at .5A and is seemed to take half a day to complete the charge. I love the idea of built it charging, but .25A seems to low for 18650 cells. That is what I charge my little 10440 cells at.
The TP4056 I used is a 1 amp model, thus giving roughly 250mA to each cell, (four in series) a 2 amp built in charger would be faster, but either way will depend on how far you run the cells down to and the capacity of the cells. With 2 amp wall charger I charged the lantern in 7 hours from 3.6 volts to full with 2400maH cells.
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
If I read the OP correctly, the USB charger you have in the prototype charges each cell at .25 Amps. How many hours will it take to fully charge the four depleted cells, say 3.2 Volts?
I once charged a depleted 18650 cell at .5A and is seemed to take half a day to complete the charge. I love the idea of built it charging, but .25A seems to low for 18650 cells. That is what I charge my little 10440 cells at.
The TP4056 I used is a 1 amp model, thus giving roughly 250mA to each cell, (four in series) a 2 amp built in charger would be faster, but either way will depend on how far you run the cells down to and the capacity of the cells. With 2 amp wall charger I charged the lantern in 7 hours from 3.6 volts to full with 2400maH cells.
I think that a 2 amp built in charger would be better for sure. At what point would the heat generated by an internal charger in a closed light become an issue?
Thats not extreme, but it isn’t insignificant either. I’m not an expert, but my gut says you would need that to be heatsinked to be reliable long term. I bet if we asked someone like HJK he would be able to give a good idea.
I wish the lantern project would be a sort of addon to the Q8, I am sure with a proper reflective cone shaped on the top with a milky cylinrdical diffusor the light pattern would be great, without moving the LED on the top
Just screwing the diffusor on the Q8 instead the bezel
Lexel such questions are asked many times
This is a lantern with different features.
Every time somebody says a diffuser or add-on for the Q8 suffices this will probably be the response
Please add me for a second one….thanks
one for me too. thanks
Nice DBSAR!
I agree.
Will update list later!
When there are four cells and ample space in the head it makes no sense to make a tube with one charging cell.
As it looks now one can use the led and charging/power bank at the same time
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Please sign me up for 1. Might change for 2 when we will know the price.
I would be in for one right now.
Price is always the big factor.
Would also make a good light for working under a car and engine compartment.
Please add me to the list :]
Overkill is just about enough!
Interesting and great your prototy is at this state of design already
What about a modular design later, where several components can be switched or composited as the reqirements of the user change?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Modular_design
Like replaceable electronics (with/without charging function, USB output), LED (CCT, CRI and luminous flux) and battery compartment (1/2/4 cells, 18650/AA).
as the lantern prototype is now it can run from 1, 2, 3 or 4 cells. ( as they run in parallel and with the lower amperage & more efficient driver set up it will be no problems running the lantern even on one cell. (will just have lower run times.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Indeed, there is tons of space above the driver in the mid-section to add the charger & USB bank electronics. And if the produdction model is set up with the charger isolated separately from the driver it can be charged while running. (been testing that with the prototype for a couple weeks now.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
If I read the OP correctly, the USB charger you have in the prototype charges each cell at .25 Amps. How many hours will it take to fully charge the four depleted cells, say 3.2 Volts?
I once charged a depleted 18650 cell at .5A and is seemed to take half a day to complete the charge. I love the idea of built it charging, but .25A seems to low for 18650 cells. That is what I charge my little 10440 cells at.
The TP4056 I used is a 1 amp model, thus giving roughly 250mA to each cell, (four in series) a 2 amp built in charger would be faster, but either way will depend on how far you run the cells down to and the capacity of the cells. With 2 amp wall charger I charged the lantern in 7 hours from 3.6 volts to full with 2400maH cells.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
I think that a 2 amp built in charger would be better for sure. At what point would the heat generated by an internal charger in a closed light become an issue?
2A * 5V = 10W (rounding up)
Thats not extreme, but it isn’t insignificant either. I’m not an expert, but my gut says you would need that to be heatsinked to be reliable long term. I bet if we asked someone like HJK he would be able to give a good idea.
What about the option to add an optional wireless remote control&status modul (bluetooth) there?
Interested, add me to the list
Light Own: Convoy S2+ 4C FET, BLF X6v2, BLF Q8, BLF LT1, WildTrail D80v2, Convoy L6 TA Narsil, BLF GT, BLF-348, Convoy S2+ 18350 Nichia 219BT, Astrolux A01, Olight I3E tan
Gifted Away: Convoy C8+ Sand 4C FET, Pelican 2350, BLF D80 (due to flicker), BLF A6 (due to green tint), BLF X5
Built/Modded: EE X6 FET SST-40 N4 6500K dedomed, Two EE X6 FET XP-L HI V2 3A, Two Convoy C8+ Sand 4C + FET
Can you please add me for 2? Thanks.
What would be the purpose?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Maybe some are worried this won’t be costly enough or that it will be too rugged?
Add me in too!
I’m interested, this seems like an awesome lantern in the making. please add me to the interest list
I wonder if using multiple emitters would be beneficial… not for greater lumen output, but for increased efficiency.
If you design the lantern to use a 20mm mcpcb, then those who want can swap it out for a triple or quad led configuration.
But you’ve probably already thought of that, huh?
Bluetooth!! Forget that extra complexity/cost.
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 8th Annual contest entry My 7th Annual contest entry My 6th Annual contest entry My 5th Annual contest entry My 4th Annual contest entry
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
This lantern sounds great! Please add me to the list….
I would in for one lantern. Awesome design!
I wish the lantern project would be a sort of addon to the Q8, I am sure with a proper reflective cone shaped on the top with a milky cylinrdical diffusor the light pattern would be great, without moving the LED on the top
Just screwing the diffusor on the Q8 instead the bezel
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Lexel such questions are asked many times
This is a lantern with different features.
Every time somebody says a diffuser or add-on for the Q8 suffices this will probably be the response
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Looks nice. Interested, price dependent. Thanks for putting in the time & effort DBSAR!
steve42
interested, please add me to list
Please add me to the interested list.
Thanks
Please add me to the list. Thank you!
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