*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

11691 posts / 0 new
Last post
TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia

LT1 arrived! The handle is aligned perfectly. Thumbs Up

Thanks DBSAR and Sofirn!

niajef
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 10/18/2020 - 18:23
Posts: 787
Location: Toronto

still endlessly waiting for LT1 to arrive at amazon.ca warehouse

TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia
niajef wrote:
still endlessly waiting for LT1 to arrive at amazon.ca warehouse

I ordered the LT1 kit from amazon.com.au on the 29th of October when there was no stock locally in Australia. It was shipped from China and arrived today.

Can you order the LT1 from amazon.ca and have it shipped from China? No pressure lol. If you don’t need a lantern… It is rather nice Silly

niajef
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 10/18/2020 - 18:23
Posts: 787
Location: Toronto
TimMc wrote:
niajef wrote:
still endlessly waiting for LT1 to arrive at amazon.ca warehouse

I ordered the LT1 kit from amazon.com.au on the 29th of October when there was no stock locally in Australia. It was shipped from China and arrived today.

Can you order the LT1 from amazon.ca and have it shipped from China? No pressure lol. If you don’t need a lantern… It is rather nice Silly

there’s not even a listing for LT1 on amazon.ca Tired

DudeMan
DudeMan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 days ago
Joined: 11/24/2019 - 02:15
Posts: 87
Location: NJ

niajef wrote:

there’s not even a listing for LT1 on amazon.ca Tired

buy it direct then?
https://sofirnlight.com/blf-lt1-lantern-rechargeable-tint-ramping-2700k-...
aeroden
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 09/30/2020 - 09:55
Posts: 77
Location: Melbourne, AU

Thank you DBSAR for creating this gem. Some lights just give you joy and this is one of them. I just keep it on my desk to give that warm tint to my office space in the evenings. Thanks!

I ordered my for Sofirn official store on AliExpress. Took about 8 weeks to arrive (took them 3 weeks to ship). But eventually all is good.

niajef
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 10/18/2020 - 18:23
Posts: 787
Location: Toronto
DudeMan wrote:
niajef wrote:
there’s not even a listing for LT1 on amazon.ca Tired
buy it direct then? https://sofirnlight.com/blf-lt1-lantern-rechargeable-tint-ramping-2700k-...

im waiting, they said it will be available on amazon.ca near end of november…im not sure how long ordering from their site will take, anybody have experience? is it faster, slower, or about the same as any other BG/AE orders?

DudeMan
DudeMan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 days ago
Joined: 11/24/2019 - 02:15
Posts: 87
Location: NJ

niajef wrote:

im waiting, they said it will be available on amazon.ca near end of november…im not sure how long ordering from their site will take, anybody have experience? is it faster, slower, or about the same as any other BG/AE orders?

i just ordered a IF25A direct from sofirn. placed the order last sunday, it shipped tuesday.
[edit]back when i still used amazon, my LT1 shipped from china anyway.
niajef
Offline
Last seen: 14 hours 17 min ago
Joined: 10/18/2020 - 18:23
Posts: 787
Location: Toronto
DudeMan wrote:
niajef wrote:
im waiting, they said it will be available on amazon.ca near end of november…im not sure how long ordering from their site will take, anybody have experience? is it faster, slower, or about the same as any other BG/AE orders?
i just ordered a IF25A direct from sofirn. placed the order last sunday, it shipped tuesday. [edit]back when i still used amazon, my LT1 shipped from china anyway.

ya i can order now, well not LT1, some other lights, and its sold by sofirn, and shipped from china, but if i wait till their stock gets to amazon warehouse, then its fulfilled by amazon, then its much faster.

placing order on sunday and shipping on tuesday sounds a bit slow, all BG and AE orders so far have shipped within 24 hours of me placing order.

TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia

Does soldering pads 4 and 5 do anything on rev 5 of the board? They’re connected by a 0 ohm resistor?

Would soldering pads 6 and 7 negatively impact the mixing of NW and WW? Does the moonlight / lowest level become higher?

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

TimMc wrote:
Does soldering pads 4 and 5 do anything on rev 5 of the board?
from what I understand of rev 5 board there are 0 ohm resistors in positions 4 and 5 already. so soldering those pads does nothing

TimMc wrote:
They’re connected by a 0 ohm resistor?
I believe so

TimMc]Would soldering pads 6 and 7 negatively impact the mixing of NW and WW?[quote] Not if you solder both 6's and/or both 7's[quote=TimMc wrote:
Does the moonlight / lowest level become higher?
If you solder 6 and 7 the lowest level of the light, or moonlight as you referenced, would be somewhat brighter. The amount of current that is consumed by the batteries scales pretty linearly based on the number of channels connected. The lights brightness doesn’t scale linearly, at least as perceived by our eyes.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia
sbslider wrote:
moonlight as you referenced, would be somewhat brighter

Thanks! I’ll try to add small switches instead. I like moonlight modes. The ability to crank it up for extra output without needing a soldering iron would be nice.

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

somewhere in this thread I posted a table of different current draw from batteries based on how many of the driver pairs are enabled, but I can’t find it now . . .

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

roostre
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 27 sec ago
Joined: 03/09/2020 - 23:37
Posts: 243
Location: Pac. NW

TimMc wrote:
Thanks! I'll try to add small switches instead. I like moonlight modes. The ability to crank it up for extra output without needing a soldering iron would be nice.

You could try the pencil mod to discover how significant the change would be:

From: https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1593903#comment-1593903

sbslider wrote:
I decided to experiment with the "pencil trick" to see if I could enable an additional channel in my lantern. It works. Filling in the space between NW and WW pads for channel 6 increased the current at level 4 from 1.01A to 1.20A. 1.01*6/5=1.21. This would allow for folks to add channel 6 and/or 7 if desired without a soldering iron. It easy to remove with an eraser also. I already removed the connection in about 5 seconds per side.

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia
roostre wrote:

You could try the pencil mod to discover how significant the change would be:

I’ll give that a go! Beer

roostre
Offline
Last seen: 56 min 27 sec ago
Joined: 03/09/2020 - 23:37
Posts: 243
Location: Pac. NW

TimMc wrote:
roostre wrote:

You could try the pencil mod to discover how significant the change would be:

I'll give that a go! :BEER:

 

From: https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1593923#comment-1593923

sbslider wrote:
Pencil trick – use a pencil to make an electrical connection between two pads on a circuit board, or across a component on a circuit board. In this case, I used a #2 pencil and applied a fair amount of pencil lead (what is this stuff anyway?) between the pads labeled “6”. The pencil lead is a “good enough” conductor to make a connection here...

How many flashlights does a "real man" need?

None, real men are not afraid of the dark.

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

funny, I just came back to mention the pencil trick. Glad someone pointed it out!!

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia

I tried a 5B pencil but it didn’t seem to work or I can’t tell the difference lol

I’ll try solder Blushing

TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia

The LT1 is definitely a little bit brighter on the lowest mode when pads 6 and 7 are soldered. I desoldered them to switch back. Silly

DudeMan
DudeMan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 4 days ago
Joined: 11/24/2019 - 02:15
Posts: 87
Location: NJ

DBSAR did some tests with 5 vs 7 7135s

i also run mine a bit warm from full cool color (4000K?). 1 step down from full brightness it runs pretty cool. at full brightness (again color a bit warm from full cool) it gets pretty warm.
5 does seems like the sweet spot for this lantern. any more you get diminishing returns with brightness, more heat, and less runtime.

in my opinion, DBSAR nailed it!
thanks again for all the work you put into this amazing light sir. Thumbs Up Beer

TimMc
TimMc's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 06/26/2020 - 02:22
Posts: 555
Location: Melbourne, Australia
DudeMan wrote:
in my opinion, DBSAR nailed it! thanks again for all the work you put into this amazing light sir. Thumbs Up Beer

Agreed! Awesome lantern Cool

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

TimMc wrote:
I tried a 5B pencil but it didn’t seem to work or I can’t tell the difference lol

I’ll try solder Blushing


It worked for me with a standard #2 pencil, but they’re not that common these days I suppose. Glad you got the solder to work.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Streamtronics
Streamtronics's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 01/02/2019 - 19:14
Posts: 94
Location: Germany

I've been working on a version of Anduril 2.0 that'll support faking high-res PWM on the ATtiny85 (which is the MCU in the LT1). High-res PWM will enable lower brightness settings despite more AMC7135 being connected, and more importantly virtually stepless tint mixing all the way down to the lowest brightness setting, which I'm personally excited about. So far it looks quite promising. With the default 8-bit PWM the tint looks quite inconsistent while changing brightness at the low-end, too. It looks quite "steppy". 

However, I'm unsure how to share the firmware once I'm happy with it. My changes should technically also work for the original Anduril, but I don't have any experience with how code is merged for future updates, and in general I made changes to several files of ToyKeeper's FSM, so I guess I'd have to share all of these in a ZIP or something. Guess I'll have to read up on the license once it's time. 

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 31 min ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 397
Location: London

If you can make Anduril have better resolution at the low end, that would be a huge improvement for many lights, not just the LT1. Maybe you could discuss your ideas with Toykeeper in the Anduril thread?

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

I’m sure its just me but I always struggle trying to find the actual code files. Can anyone point me to Andrul 2 for the LT1?

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 957
Location: Germany

Streamtronics wrote:

However, I’m unsure how to share the firmware once I’m happy with it. My changes should technically also work for the original Anduril, but I don’t have any experience with how code is merged for future updates, and in general I made changes to several files of ToyKeeper’s FSM, so I guess I’d have to share all of these in a ZIP or something. Guess I’ll have to read up on the license once it’s time. 


Easiest would be to use Launchpad.

sbslider wrote:
I’m sure its just me but I always struggle trying to find the actual code files. Can anyone point me to Andrul 2 for the LT1?

https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/anduril2/files
sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

SammysHP wrote:
Streamtronics wrote:

However, I’m unsure how to share the firmware once I’m happy with it. My changes should technically also work for the original Anduril, but I don’t have any experience with how code is merged for future updates, and in general I made changes to several files of ToyKeeper’s FSM, so I guess I’d have to share all of these in a ZIP or something. Guess I’ll have to read up on the license once it’s time. 


Easiest would be to use Launchpad.

sbslider wrote:
I’m sure its just me but I always struggle trying to find the actual code files. Can anyone point me to Andrul 2 for the LT1?

https://bazaar.launchpad.net/~toykeeper/flashlight-firmware/anduril2/files

I poked around on there for awhile, not sure why I couldn’t find the links. Thanks so much!! Beer

Update, I still can’t find the firware on that page. Its the same one I visited prior to asking. There are lots of folders and a few files, but a search for Anduril on that page reveals only 2 hits, both associated with the path. I don’t get it still . . . Sad

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Streamtronics
Streamtronics's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 01/02/2019 - 19:14
Posts: 94
Location: Germany

SammysHP wrote:
Easiest would be to use Launchpad.

Hmm, I've never used anything like that, I'll have to look into it. I just visited the website and still don't really understand how it works, but I also get confused and distracted easily ^^; Managing it all seems like a lot of effort, I have no clue how I'd keep my version of Anduril 2.0 up to date with TK's current changes and stuff...

 

sbslider wrote:
Update, I still can’t find the firware on that page.

You just navigate to the "ToyKeeper" folder, there you'll find hardware definition files. There's a "spaghetti-monster" folder, with the FSM toolkit in it. In there, there's also an "anduril" folder with all the specific anduril features and modes.

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

I guess I was looking for a hex file, not to build my own. Someone provided directions to build my own, I may try it, I was just hoping for a hex file I could just load like Anduril 1. I still have my D4 and LT1 files on my computer that I copied from the Launchpad previously.

Sounds like its more of a roll your own now, guess if I want updated firmware I’ll need to figure it out sometime.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

Streamtronics
Streamtronics's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 01/02/2019 - 19:14
Posts: 94
Location: Germany

Where's the fun in just loading a hex file ;D I personally started messing with the firmware cause especially in earlier version of anduril the timing were SO SLOW I just needed to adjust them to keep my sanity lol.

I'm usually not a fan of command line tools and mostly avoid linux due to that, so I just threw all the files into an atmel studio project on windows and kinda brute forced my way through the process, without really knowing my way around atmel studio. 

As for the 16 bit PWM for the LT1, that part is working fine, I'm just trying to come up with a good ramp brightness table. There's a weird non-linearity or "bump" after about 1/5th of the ramp or so (not sure if it's there with the original firmware, need to investigate further). No idea where it comes from, and "fixing" it by altering the brightness table feels hacky and wrong, but idk what else to do. 

Pages