*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

11892 posts / 0 new
Last post
waxing twilight
waxing twilight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 01/21/2016 - 08:34
Posts: 34
Location: Somewhere near the Mason-Dixon Line, US

Thanks for the replies. I am wondering if perhaps they were mistakenly listed for sale prematurely as it is my understanding is that no one from the posts about orange LT-1s has seemed to actually have made it through the process to receiving one.

That would be great, here’s to hoping 2 days is the magic number

angerdan
angerdan's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 1 hour ago
Joined: 11/01/2015 - 10:07
Posts: 555

waxing twilight wrote:
Has anyone heard anything about the production of more orange LT-1s? Seems they’ve been out of stock a while and I haven’t gotten anything in reply from Sofirn except that they are out of stock.
Has anyone actually received an orange LT-1?
Here’s the thread about the colored versions:
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/69644

It would help others if the discussion about colored versions of the LT1 would be all in the dedicated thread Thumbs Up

waxing twilight
waxing twilight's picture
Offline
Last seen: 23 hours 52 min ago
Joined: 01/21/2016 - 08:34
Posts: 34
Location: Somewhere near the Mason-Dixon Line, US

Thanks, angerdan, I forgot about the color thread. I’ll post there as well. I had noticed there were posts over here where people had attempted to order some and had failed. This thread is a beast.

Sunnysunsun
Sunnysunsun's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/09/2019 - 12:51
Posts: 766
Location: Toronto
Streamtronics wrote:

Is there anyone willing to try my custom 16 bit build of Anduril 2 for the LT1? I’d love to get some feedback on it.


It provides nice and smooth tint ramping and much less tint flickering when dimming at low modes, it’s just that the brightness curve is somehow bumpy and I haven’t figured out why yet (I actually suspect hardware non-linearities). I haven’t seen anyone else do this yet (faking 16 bit on an 8 bit capable MCU).


I can provide a zip with the source code and hex file to anyone interested (I still don’t understand how to add my code to TK’s firmware repository without considerable effort). 

Streamtronics has made a fantastic improvement to anduril 2 which allows for tint ramping at the lowest mode and he says it has the ability to make the dimmest mode even lower which I’m most excited about.

I was surprised that I was the first person who has tested out his version of anduril 2 and so far it has been terrific!

Skamandrious
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 9 months ago
Joined: 02/18/2021 - 11:12
Posts: 1
Location: Oregon

looks awesome, put me down for one. Came here for the fist time just for this!

cm64
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 04/20/2015 - 06:42
Posts: 211
Location: Melbourne Australia

[quote=SR-G]Do you know which screws (with which dimensions) to buy and that would fit the BLT L1 screw holes ? I ordered these ones (flavor "LS047" / screw 4.5mm + additional height 3mm), and sadly they don't fit well (and not in the same way between hole on the side versus at the bottom = it goes deeper on the side) (and i haven't been able to find models without the "gap" in the middle).

 

Hi SR-G Just use a rubber washer to give you a good fit. Maybe something like a washing machine or dishwasher hose washer or a jumper valve washer. In the olden days, I used one on my camera tripod as the depth of the tripod screw hole varied from camera to camera.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001379528752.html?spm=a2g0o.productl...

Bubbaskyjacker
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 1 week ago
Joined: 02/04/2017 - 01:36
Posts: 9
Location: Commifornia

So I’m in. What’s the best place to buy this ?

Best flashlight of them all, the Sun.

Saul M
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 03:36
Posts: 63
Location: Aus

I have compared my LT1 to my Fenix CL30R and the fenix on turbo mode is quite alot more lumens than the LT1 sadly Sad
If the LT1 has those extra bridges soldered can it’s higher output stay sustained without overheating/having to step down?

Sunnysunsun
Sunnysunsun's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/09/2019 - 12:51
Posts: 766
Location: Toronto
Saul M wrote:
I have compared my LT1 to my Fenix CL30R and the fenix on turbo mode is quite alot more lumens than the LT1 sadly Sad If the LT1 has those extra bridges soldered can it’s higher output stay sustained without overheating/having to step down?

Yes, the LT1 will get hotter and brighter but it will not use thermal step down.

Saul M
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 03:36
Posts: 63
Location: Aus
Sunnysunsun wrote:
Saul M wrote:
I have compared my LT1 to my Fenix CL30R and the fenix on turbo mode is quite alot more lumens than the LT1 sadly Sad If the LT1 has those extra bridges soldered can it’s higher output stay sustained without overheating/having to step down?

Yes, the LT1 will get hotter and brighter but it will not use thermal step down.

Thanks, so will it get damaged running higher? I usually run it hours straight in up to 30degrees C static environment, Sounds like I best leave it stock.

Saul M
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 03:36
Posts: 63
Location: Aus

Also I really wish they would put a 4 led volt meter on top of this, sorry but playing morse code with blinking lights is just unacceptable imo.

Sunnysunsun
Sunnysunsun's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/09/2019 - 12:51
Posts: 766
Location: Toronto

Temperature damage is unlikely. The LH351D are tested to 1000hrs at 3A at 85C. At 7*7135, each LH351D is getting less than 800mA at most.

The top might be so hot that it hurts to touch it, but it shouldn’t decrease the lifespan by much.

Even if something does break, the parts are pretty cheap to replace if you can do some soldering.

cm64
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 32 min ago
Joined: 04/20/2015 - 06:42
Posts: 211
Location: Melbourne Australia
Saul M wrote:
Also I really wish they would put a 4 led volt meter on top of this, sorry but playing morse code with blinking lights is just unacceptable imo.

Hi
Does the Fenix CL30R have a built in volt meter ?

Saul M
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 03:36
Posts: 63
Location: Aus

It has 4 led lights that gauge the SoC, not an actual volt meter with numbers. But so easy to use for the average joe.

Saul M
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 03:36
Posts: 63
Location: Aus

Sunnysunsun wrote:
Temperature damage is unlikely. The LH351D are tested to 1000hrs at 3A at 85C. At 7*7135, each LH351D is getting less than 800mA at most.

The top might be so hot that it hurts to touch it, but it shouldn’t decrease the lifespan by much.

Even if something does break, the parts are pretty cheap to replace if you can do some soldering.

Thanks

Saul M
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 03:36
Posts: 63
Location: Aus

Does anyone know what the waterproof rating is on this? Can it handle rain?

DBSAR
DBSAR's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 19 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2013 - 23:28
Posts: 6472
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Saul M wrote:
Does anyone know what the waterproof rating is on this? Can it handle rain?

It handles rain no problem. I have used them in the rain many times.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

Saul M
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/30/2017 - 03:36
Posts: 63
Location: Aus
DBSAR wrote:
Saul M wrote:
Does anyone know what the waterproof rating is on this? Can it handle rain?

It handles rain no problem. I have used them in the rain many times.

Great to hear, thanks!

Rexlion
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/18/2019 - 16:59
Posts: 1287
Location: Okla.

I have a question. The LT1 doesn’t seem to be very efficient in its power usage; is that mainly because of extra circuitry to handle the tint mixing, or what?

Say the LT1 on high produces in the neighborhood of 600 lumens, for a bit less than 6 hours. The Q8 with the same 4 18650s can produce 750 lumens for something like 17 hours. The LT1 sucks juice a lot faster.

That’s not to take away from the advantages of a purpose-built lantern for specific uses, especially one that can vary its color temp output. I’m just thinking that when a person is camping, thrifty energy use from whatever cells one has packed can become a factor, too.

== We save the planet from darkness ==

MtnDon
MtnDon's picture
Offline
Last seen: 27 min 43 sec ago
Joined: 08/27/2015 - 18:25
Posts: 4378
Location: Canuk in NM

Where are those numbers; lumens and hours coming from? Are they reliable, realistic?

iamlucky13
Offline
Last seen: 32 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 09:18
Posts: 1161
Location: USA

Rexlion wrote:
I have a question. The LT1 doesn’t seem to be very efficient in its power usage; is that mainly because of extra circuitry to handle the tint mixing, or what?

Say the LT1 on high produces in the neighborhood of 600 lumens, for a bit less than 6 hours. The Q8 with the same 4 18650s can produce 750 lumens for something like 17 hours. The LT1 sucks juice a lot faster.

That’s not to take away from the advantages of a purpose-built lantern for specific uses, especially one that can vary its color temp output. I’m just thinking that when a person is camping, thrifty energy use from whatever cells one has packed can become a factor, too.

The LT1 is far from an efficiency champion, but the Q8 performance you suggest is not accurate. It would be nearly 250 lumens per Watt. No flashlight on the market comes close to that.

Since I’ve actually been curious about a comparison with the CL30R for a while, I went ahead and used this discussion as an excuse to make one, and I added the Q8 as well, since you brought it up.

In general, the LT1 compromises on efficiency for the sake of having high CRI (especially so at the warm end of the tint ramp). Based on Lumeniac’s photos, I suspect the CL30R is also high CRI. The LT1 and CL30R both compromise on efficiency for the sake of having well-diffused output. I assume the CL30R achieves its better overall efficiency by utilizing a buck driver (if a Lume1 or similar topology driver was ever offered as a mod for the LT1, I would be all over it!).

All of them are similar in size and weight, but of course, different shapes, and the CL30R holds one less battery. The Lumeniac review linked below has really good photo comparisons of the LT1 to the CL30R, showing by size and relative output under controlled conditions. A few users elsewhere have provided comparisons between the Q8 and LT1

I personally went with the less expensive LT1 with it’s tint ramping and Anduril, and am very happy with it. The Fenix looks like a really good lantern, too, and adds powerbank functionality and Fenix’s product support.

Comparison table (smartphones may need to be landscape orientation for best viewing):

BLF Q8 BLF LT1 CW BLF LT1 WW Fenix CL30R
Max Output (lm) 5,000 463 355 650
Efficacy (lm/W) 80 71 55 100
Regulated time on Max N/A 7 hours 7 hours 2 hours, 40 min
Color Temp 5000K? 5000K 2700K 4000K?
CRI 70? 90 90 80+?
Batteries 4 × 18650 4 × 18650 4 × 18650 3 × 18650
Weight @ 48g/cell 592g 597g 597g 556g

Sources:

Q8 Output: Advertised
Q8 Runtime Test: Zeroair review using 3000mAh cells
Q8 Efficacy: Calculated stepwise from Zeroair’s graph in combination with advertised output.
LT1 Output: Maukka Test
LT1 Efficacy: Calculated from Maukka’s based on 5 × 0.35A driver and 3.7V average battery voltage
LT1 and CL30R Runtimes: Lumeniac’s Review using 2600mAh cells
CL30R Output: Manufacturer specified (Not tested. See Lumeniac’s photos for comparison)
CL30R Efficacy: Calculated stepwise from Lumeniac’s graph and advertised output.

Rexlion
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 2 hours ago
Joined: 05/18/2019 - 16:59
Posts: 1287
Location: Okla.

MtnDon wrote:
Where are those numbers; lumens and hours coming from? Are they reliable, realistic?

I got the Q8 numbers from a post by CivilGearReviews, which cited alleged mfr test runtime results. Note the “Group 8” data line in the chart.
CivilGearReviews thread
Not saying that I’ve done anything to confirm accuracy of those numbers, though.
I’m not comparing max output to max output, but rather m/l equivalent lumens of output.

Runtime of the LT1 at high setting has been mentioned by several people, and GreenCampfire did a runtime test and posted a graph showing almost 6 hours before output fell off sharply.

== We save the planet from darkness ==

nick779
nick779's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 4 days ago
Joined: 03/09/2018 - 15:46
Posts: 502
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Maybe I missed it, but does anyone know what the button LED turning on halfway through the ramp signifies? Usually it’s the FET channel turning on in other lights, but the LT1 doesn’t have a FET.

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Offline
Last seen: 45 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 1703
Location: Germany

nick779 wrote:
Maybe I missed it, but does anyone know what the button LED turning on halfway through the ramp signifies? Usually it’s the FET channel turning on in other lights, but the LT1 doesn’t have a FET.

It’s just an arbitrary value (65/150). It also doesn’t turn on, it switches to high (and is very dim before that).
Th558
Th558's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 29 min ago
Joined: 01/30/2016 - 16:19
Posts: 1269
Location: United Kingdom

I’d love to see an LT1 pro with a boost driver (buck has flickering issue) and a better thermal path which directs more heat to the body.

SammysHP
SammysHP's picture
Offline
Last seen: 45 min 22 sec ago
Joined: 06/25/2019 - 14:35
Posts: 1703
Location: Germany

Th558 wrote:
(buck has flickering issue)

Not sure what you mean. A buck regulator does not flicker.
Lux-Perpetua
Lux-Perpetua's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 1 month ago
Joined: 03/01/2018 - 04:39
Posts: 3194

Lately, I have been discussing some ideas with Barry (Sofirn) and DBSAR, among them a (limited) run of a special LT1R with Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI and Luminus SST20-DR 660nm.

Basically, we would sacrifice standard tint ramping between 5000K and 2700K (LT1) and exchange that by tint ramping between a warm neutralwhite 4000K HighCRI and a true deep red tint with 660nm wavelength. Additionally, this LT1R could be anodized in red color (not discussed with Sofirn yet) to emphasize the unique proposition of this model. This plan would mean very little efforts in (re-)development if any and keep markup costs to a minimum.

Certainly, most of us would prefer to have a three-channel LT1 with both 5000K, 2700K and deep red light. But that would imply:

  • significant changes on the LT1 source code (incorporate third channel tint ramp, underneath the "bottom" of warmwhite floor level)
  • that ToyKeeper (or someone else's expertise) was required to revise that source code accordingly
  • that Sofirn had to revise their current LT1 driver design and add a third channel, place additional 7135s on the driver board
  • that we talk about a whole different timeline, probably not feasible within the next 6 months
  • that hardware costs could be added at unforeseeable level due to the global semiconductor shortages right now

Maybe I am going to run a poll anytime soon. But before that I am curious about some general opinions, especially upon tint ramping between white and (deep) red light.

Sunnysunsun
Sunnysunsun's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/09/2019 - 12:51
Posts: 766
Location: Toronto

**significant changes on the LT1 source code (incorporate third channel tint ramp, underneath the “bottom” of warmwhite floor level) that ToyKeeper (or someone else’s expertise) was required to revise that source code accordingly**

I’m not sure exactly how significant this is but it seems like it should be possible to someone knowledgeable without being too. You could probably create a tint ramp2 (or reuse the current tint ramp) which gets accessed with a different click sequence when already at the bottom of the tint ramp. I’m not super knowledgeable about the code but I think it could be done, even without TK’s help

that Sofirn had to revise their current LT1 driver design and add a third channel, place additional 7135s on the driver board
This has already been done. Sofirn has a revised board with a third channel of 7135s labelled red

that we talk about a whole different timeline, probably not feasible within the next 6 months
Not an issue to me. These are more longer term plans

that hardware costs could be added at unforeseeable level due to the global semiconductor shortages right now

What are they having trouble getting? The components of the red LT1 board seem identical to the current board with the addition of a few 7135s

For me, a red channel is a bit of a gimmick and I really wouldn’t like to see it come at the cost of regular tint ramping. That seems like an avoidable and undesirable compromise.

Sunnysunsun
Sunnysunsun's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 08/09/2019 - 12:51
Posts: 766
Location: Toronto

In an effort to not deviate from the current conversation, here’s a link to a new thread I’ve opened regarding the idea of swapping a board of Sunlike ~98cri emitters into the LT1 for better colour rendering and less heat at the head.

The cost if we get 100 people interested would be about $12 a board + $4 shipping which you’d swap it into the lantern yourself.

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77055

SunLike
SunLike's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 47 min ago
Joined: 11/05/2019 - 17:44
Posts: 431
Location: Norway

Sunnysunsun wrote:
In an effort to not deviate from the current conversation, here’s a link to a new thread I’ve opened regarding the idea of swapping a board of Sunlike ~98cri emitters into the LT1 for better colour rendering and less heat at the head.

The cost if we get 100 people interested would be about $12 a board + $4 shipping which you’d swap it into the lantern yourself.

https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77055

Hat

May be someone have correct sizes of this pcb? +/- .5mm

BelMORDOR’s Ламповщик|Lampman
https://t.me/sunlikenews

Pages