*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

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twodollarbill
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I’m on board with a LT1R, I think a red channel would be a perfect addition. However, if we are limited to one CCT I would suggest going with 2700k, or at least warmer than 4000k.

It seems from a lot of replies on the forum that most folks prefer the warmer tints out of the lantern. Even following the Sunlike board discussions, there are folks that have requested an even warmer tint that 2700k.

Fescron
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twodollarbill wrote:
I’m on board with a LT1R, I think a red channel would be a perfect addition. However, if we are limited to one CCT I would suggest going with 2700k, or at least warmer than 4000k.

It seems from a lot of replies on the forum that most folks prefer the warmer tints out of the lantern. Even following the Sunlike board discussions, there are folks that have requested an even warmer tint that 2700k.

I second this!

Lux-Perpetua
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I will check with Sofirn if their suppliers can offer LH351B 2200K 80CRI (SPHWH2L3D30ED4Y). Maybe this could be an interesting option for a 2-channel LT1R with 2200K and SST20-DR 660nm.

I have a modified SP10B with LH351B 2200K 80CRI and the tint looks gorgeous. I hope its characteristics will not be too far off to implement into the current driver layout. Overall maximum brightness will certainly decrease using LH351B and SST20-DR.

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Lux-Perpetua
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How much efforts would it mean to replace the LED board by the Sunlike LT1 board? 

Sunnysunsun
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I haven’t yet disassembled my LT1 but from what I understand, the process is pretty straightforwards.
No special ring pliers, just need a hex key, a philips screwdriver, a soldering iron, and some thermal paste

1. Use a Hex key to unscrew the top then take the top apart.
2. Desolder and remove original MCPCB, clean the thermal paste. (Need a screw driver too)
3. add new thermal paste and solder in the new MCPCB
4. Test your connections then reassemble the light.

FlashPilot
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Edited

Lex, Id be in for a LT1R if the host was bright red anodized. I have no use for something so yellow and dingy as 2200K 80 CRI, but would love the suggested 4000K 90 CRI. Fingers crosses for a red anodized version, otherwise I probably wouldn’t be interested.

Maybe another option would be to ask Sofirn if populated MCPCB’s could be sold in a variety of tints. The swap sure looks easy enough for anyone who can solder.

While I think the Sunlike project will be a fun mod to experiment with, I dont see the 2835 Chinese emitters replacing the robust Samsung LH351D emitters and DTP MCPCB of the stock LT1 over the long haul. If the 2835 SMD’s were Cree or Bridgelux, Id have a lot more confidence in them meeting certified lumen maintenance specs… which means they would meet published longevity standards if ran at spec, rather than the cheep Chinese LED light strip emitters being used, which are subject to burn out far more quickly. Ive sure gone through my share! Just my .02 cents…

Any news on the 8 × 18650 mod kit for the LT1?
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/61004

djozz
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The leds for the Sunlike boards are Sunlike, which is a cooperation between Seoul Semiconductors and Toshiba. So no chinese leds. And even if they were chinese (btw, even chinese leds are improving all the time Wink ) there is no reason to expect them not no last many thousands of hours, if things go wrong with cheap led products, it is always the electronics, not the leds.

Sunnysunsun
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I disagree with your comments regarding the robustness of the Sunlike board. The emitters are made by Seoul Semiconductor which is a reputable company and not some noname Chinese manufacturer.

I have faith in BelMOR’s judgments because he is experienced in this field and has been selling his bulbs for some time.

I don’t believe a DTP board is needed. Each emitter is getting at most 153mA at 3V, that’s less than half a watt of power.
DTP is necessary when you’re driving high power emitter beyond specs. 150mA is the average rated spec of these Sunlike emitters with their max current being 300mA

7 AMC7135s active results in just 2.45A, being shared between 16 emitters is not a lot of heat to dissipate.

I wouldn’t move ahead with this project if I didn’t think the final result would be a good, robust design.

FlashPilot
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Thank you, and I stand corrected. So getting into it… browsing SOL’s 2835 data sheets were rather spartan and lacking, which did not inspire confidence. Nor could I find any of their emitters being used by large certified luminary manufacturers. Also, CRI was rated >80, not the high 90’s. I was also put off by the response I received from SunLike when I asked him about the higher binned 2835’s he had mentioned. He also ditched Sunnysunsun when he asked for a datasheet. Perhaps a language barrier, or just a sales driven ambitious fellow anxious to make a buck. Reading his older threads… I felt the same hard push to sell and avoidance to anything that might prevent that from happening. After further searching, I couldn’t find any independent reviews concerning the longevity of any of his products. Now having said all that, I was still interested in one of his boards… its only $20, but Id rather have the stated much brighter emitters he had mentioned that were in the works. I’ll see when those might become available through SSC/SOL, if I haven’t lost interest by the time he’s producing the boards. I often browse industry publications and business related articles because I sell large high value luminaries to local businesses (typically GE and RAB products), thus my interest. I have yet to ever see or read about one implementing SSC/SOL emitters. Probably because they do not appear to carry industry certification standards, which eliminates them from certified commercial markets and vendor lists. All comments welcome. Its another toy to play with, and I think the research is half the fun for most of us. Im probably done digging for now.

Im still much more interested in owning a nice red anodized LT1R. Hopefully it will happen soon.

Cheers! Beer

djozz
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SunLike products are not sold everywhere, just as you will not easily find Optisolis products. The reason I think is not so much the quality, but that the lighting industry is (still?) very much focused on 80CRI, 90CRI the most. 95+CRI products is a niche market. There is a rather large german company, Lumitronix, that has SunLike products in their standard assortment: https://www.leds.de/catalogsearch/result/?q=Sunlike

About the guy from Belarus, I think that he is doing interesting stuff on the boundary of DIY and professional work, that is too specialistic for most companies to be profitable. He has his typical way of communicating things, that may be a personal or a cultural thing, but I also think that he is starting up his company, is not rich and really needs the money, and is blunt about that.

FlashPilot
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Thanks djozz, I appreciate your thoughtful comments and insight. I wish all the best to him and for all those who participate.

Perception
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Lately, I have been discussing some ideas with Barry (Sofirn) and DBSAR, among them a (limited) run of a special LT1R with Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI and Luminus SST20-DR 660nm.


Basically, we would sacrifice standard tint ramping between 5000K and 2700K (LT1) and exchange that by tint ramping between a warm neutralwhite 4000K HighCRI and a true deep red tint with 660nm wavelength. Additionally, this LT1R could be anodized in red color (not discussed with Sofirn yet) to emphasize the unique proposition of this model. This plan would mean very little efforts in (re-)development if any and keep markup costs to a minimum.


Certainly, most of us would prefer to have a three-channel LT1 with both 5000K, 2700K and deep red light. But that would imply:



  • significant changes on the LT1 source code (incorporate third channel tint ramp, underneath the “bottom” of warmwhite floor level)

  • that ToyKeeper (or someone else’s expertise) was required to revise that source code accordingly

  • that Sofirn had to revise their current LT1 driver design and add a third channel, place additional 7135s on the driver board

  • that we talk about a whole different timeline, probably not feasible within the next 6 months

  • that hardware costs could be added at unforeseeable level due to the global semiconductor shortages right now


Maybe I am going to run a poll anytime soon. But before that I am curious about some general opinions, especially upon tint ramping between white and (deep) red light.

I would be interested in a red anodized LT1 that ramped between deep red and 4000K high CRI. I would not be interested in one with 2200K LEDs, or anything warmer than 4000K really.

cabshank
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Perception wrote:
Lux-Perpetua wrote:

Lately, I have been discussing some ideas with Barry (Sofirn) and DBSAR, among them a (limited) run of a special LT1R with Samsung LH351D 4000K 90CRI and Luminus SST20-DR 660nm.


Basically, we would sacrifice standard tint ramping between 5000K and 2700K (LT1) and exchange that by tint ramping between a warm neutralwhite 4000K HighCRI and a true deep red tint with 660nm wavelength. Additionally, this LT1R could be anodized in red color (not discussed with Sofirn yet) to emphasize the unique proposition of this model. This plan would mean very little efforts in (re-)development if any and keep markup costs to a minimum.


Certainly, most of us would prefer to have a three-channel LT1 with both 5000K, 2700K and deep red light. But that would imply:



  • significant changes on the LT1 source code (incorporate third channel tint ramp, underneath the “bottom” of warmwhite floor level)

  • that ToyKeeper (or someone else’s expertise) was required to revise that source code accordingly

  • that Sofirn had to revise their current LT1 driver design and add a third channel, place additional 7135s on the driver board

  • that we talk about a whole different timeline, probably not feasible within the next 6 months

  • that hardware costs could be added at unforeseeable level due to the global semiconductor shortages right now


Maybe I am going to run a poll anytime soon. But before that I am curious about some general opinions, especially upon tint ramping between white and (deep) red light.

I would be interested in a red anodized LT1 that ramped between deep red and 4000K high CRI. I would not be interested in one with 2200K LEDs, or anything warmer than 4000K really.


Same here
djxpress
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Just got mine today. I am curious what type of add-on accessory people are buying to use as a handle? Just a big lanyard, or is there some other accessory that can be added on?

DBSAR
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djxpress wrote:
Just got mine today. I am curious what type of add-on accessory people are buying to use as a handle? Just a big lanyard, or is there some other accessory that can be added on?

I made my own lanyards for the LT1 from 550 Paracord. Big Smile

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

EmptyWallets
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Has the option of a high efficiency driver been considered? I’d be cool to have that as an upgrade option when buying an LT1. Maybe Sofirn can commission Loneoceans like Fireflies did to build them an efficient driver? That along with SunLike LEDs offered stock would truly make this the endgame lantern for me.

bulbed
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Does the LT1 when fully charged, the on/off button/glow switch turn green. Mine is orange and I have put in on charge for like 5+ hrs still not turned green. Charging with battery charger that was shipped by default

Perception
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bulbed wrote:
Does the LT1 when fully charged, the on/off button/glow switch turn green. Mine is orange and I have put in on charge for like 5+ hrs still not turned green. Charging with battery charger that was shipped by default

The button is orange by default, and will turn red when you plug it in and start charging. It will turn green when it hits termination. It does take quite a while to charge all of the way, depending on which cells you have there’s a lot of capacity and I don’t think the charge current is very high.

j8048188
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Anyone know if Sofirn is still doing codes for those of us that weren’t able to place orders for more than one before the world shut down?

BLF GT, GT70 and LT1; Olight S20R, SR Mini II, SR52-UT, i3E EOS i1R EOS, i1R 2 EOS; Jaxman U1 UV

Rayoui
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bulbed wrote:
Does the LT1 when fully charged, the on/off button/glow switch turn green. Mine is orange and I have put in on charge for like 5+ hrs still not turned green. Charging with battery charger that was shipped by default

With completely flat cells, it can take as long as 10 hours to fully charge. The charge current is only 1.5A.

Make sure the red LED illuminates under the button cover to indicate that it is indeed charging when you plug it in. The older rev driver board will not charge with a USB-C to C cable (must use USB-A to C).

Perception
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j8048188 wrote:
Anyone know if Sofirn is still doing codes for those of us that weren’t able to place orders for more than one before the world shut down?

I got a code about a week ago for an orange one in one of Sofirn’s threads. It wasn’t as good as the initial deal, but it was better than retail.

Sunnysunsun
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EmptyWallets wrote:
Has the option of a high efficiency driver been considered? I’d be cool to have that as an upgrade option when buying an LT1. Maybe Sofirn can commission Loneoceans like Fireflies did to build them an efficient driver? That along with SunLike LEDs offered stock would truly make this the endgame lantern for me.

The cost is not worth it. It might be as much as $15+ for components alone for not all that much improvement. You’re already getting 4+ hours on high with 7 7135s.

Yes, you’d gain maybe 15- 20% efficiency at the start at most but that efficiency gain decreases as the batteries discharge. It won’t even make a difference heat wise since the LEDs are far away from the driver.

On top of that, you’d have to pay people to design the driver and much more.

Gedzdead
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Some questions that have for the thread. Is it possible to run the device off a single battery? Or two? Or three? I’m looking for ideas to reduce weight. I can see that running off of USB directly is possible. I was thinking as an alternative, if there was a cap/base that could be put on the bottom to protect the inside of the lantern, and then just dedicate a USB power bank of my choosing?

Gedzdead
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It looks like I found one of my answers when I changed the search in the thread.

Quote:
It can run on 1 , 2, 3 or all four cells, and maximum amps being below 2, it will be not an issue even with lower drain laptop pulls.
pol77
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This has probably been asked before, but is there a pogo pin kit I can buy to flash the LT1 with a new firmware? I already have the kit Hank sells for Emisar / Noctigon lights, so if I can use the same with another pogo pin end, that would be nice. TIA.

Perception
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Gedzdead wrote:
It looks like I found one of my answers when I changed the search in the thread.
Quote:
It can run on 1 , 2, 3 or all four cells, and maximum amps being below 2, it will be not an issue even with lower drain laptop pulls.

I can confirm it will run just fine on only 1 battery. It’s still pretty damn heavy though, I’ve just resigned myself to leaving it at home anytime weight is going to be a concern.

Gedzdead
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What is the difference between Version 1 and 2? Do I understand correctly that version 2 has an included USB C to C cable, and the Version one is USB A to C? Any other differences?

Perception
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Gedzdead wrote:
What is the difference between Version 1 and 2? Do I understand correctly that version 2 has an included USB C to C cable, and the Version one is USB A to C? Any other differences?

I have both, and they each came with usb-a to usb-c cables. I’ve never tried to charge either with usb-c to usb-c, but I’ll try it soon if I remember.

hyperknot
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Hi, can someone share the latest manual PDF? The Google drive link is not working.

Also, quick question, I got 2 black and 1 orange O-ring. What is the point of them? Do I need to use them? I kind of like my light without orange, just pure black.

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