*BLF LT1 Lantern Project) (updated Nov,17,2020)

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madcrow
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Some extra details about the driver (BLF-LT1-A2) :

  • Some photos
  • 7 x AMC7135s per channel, all hardwired
  • The programming/debug pads are directly wired to the Tiny’s pins 1: pin1, 2: pin2, etc.
  • The power supply of the Tiny looks like this:

    Glancing at the previous driver PCB’s, I’d say it is probably unchanged.
  • A simple, but effective pFET-based reverse battery polatiry protection is implemented. Nice!
  • The circuit built around the IP5310 pretty much coincides with its official reference schematic (except for the differential indicator LED drive), so it should be fine.
  • As already determined, the IP5310’s dsplay engine is used in 2-LED mode. Which is a clever choice, since, as opposed to the higher LED number display modes, it does not utilize the embedded Coulomb counter / fuel-gauge algorithm for triggering the low-battery warning. It uses a simple voltage comparison with a predefined threshold (2.95V, typ.) instead. This is good news, because, the fuel-gauge is guaranteed to “get lost” when other consumers keep sipping power directly from the battery terminals (in our case the white power LEDs), since it has no way to measure that and incorporate it into its calculation.
  • The IP5310 is used in the following configuration:
    (Overall completely reasonable, IMO)
Pin Connected resistor Corresponding config setting
1 1k to Vcc 2-LED display mode
3 N.C. 4.20V Nominal charging voltage
4 N.C. fuel gauge config – irrelevant for the LT1
5 10k to GND Battery internal resistance 45mR
6 50k8 to GND Dummy NTC
madcrow
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Production quality of the driver PCB assembly (BLF-LT1-A2) in my LT1:

Overall, not bad at all:

  • the visible solder joints look nice,
  • the inductor (the only heavy component) is glued down,
  • the wires they used are of good quality: thick but still flexible,
  • the wires are not glued down => if you accidentally break them, they can be easily desoldered,
  • the hand-soldered joints (of the wires) are robust.
  • There is noticeable “solder balling” on the board, though. I.e. free-standing little balls of solder stuck in the flux residue on the PCB. At least two of them should be noticeable in the photos linked in my prev. post. I counted at least 5 of them, total. Fortunately they were not large enough to be a real risk of short circuit if they break loose by heat / vibration etc. Your mileage may vary though… This is a well known and studied production defect with reflow soldering, usually caused by expired or low quality solder paste or a suboptimal reflow temperature profile.

Tom E
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Funny, I usually rate wires good as high strand count - flexible, while cheaper wires are low strand count - stiffer. Dunno if the cost reflects that though...

Lot of suspect lower quality wires in the lights are low strand count, but the Turnigy brand and what Hank uses/sells is high strand count, also 200C rated. Cheaper wires seem to be 150C rated.

I know the insulation layer can vary in thickness as well, which can get confusing. For our use we want usually moderate thickness - not too thick to fit the holes and for clearance, but not too thin to cut or tear easily.

I would think the LT1 driver circuit and I/O pins assignments/etc. is open source? See post #736 here. Ohh - don't see the LT1 driver though on DEL's OSHPark list.

Maybe DBSAR knows if the LT1 circuit design is available publicly? Sometimes these relationships we have with the manufacturers has some limits, other times it's just lack of asking, or communications, etc.

DBSAR
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Tom E wrote:

Funny, I usually rate wires good as high strand count – flexible, while cheaper wires are low strand count – stiffer. Dunno if the cost reflects that though…


Lot of suspect lower quality wires in the lights are low strand count, but the Turnigy brand and what Hank uses/sells is high strand count, also 200C rated. Cheaper wires seem to be 150C rated.


I know the insulation layer can vary in thickness as well, which can get confusing. For our use we want usually moderate thickness – not too thick to fit the holes and for clearance, but not too thin to cut or tear easily.


I would think the LT1 driver circuit and I/O pins assignments/etc. is open source? See post #736 here. Ohh – don’t see the LT1 driver though on DEL’s OSHPark list.


Maybe DBSAR knows if the LT1 circuit design is available publicly? Sometimes these relationships we have with the manufacturers has some limits, other times it’s just lack of asking, or communications, etc.

The LT1 circuity has not really been displayed as a full diagram, but it is laid out as “layers” in the design of the driver for the LT1 in the the team meetings & chats, DEL, Toykeeper, Lexel, Bary, Sofirn, etc. of all who were more involved into the design of the LT1’s driver & firmware as for the MCPCB design, firmware, etc. based on the LT1’s modes & plans from the original prototypes & testings. Maybe we can put together a schematic & diagram of the “brains” of the LT1. I am ok with that being made public, but it really depends on the driver & firmware developers of the team, along with Sofirn if they are ok with releasing it.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

story
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DrBashir wrote:
New to BLF, flashlights and lanterns. I thought I ordered the newest powerbank version from the sofirn website. Did I end up with the right thing?

!https://i.ibb.co/tM592K0/IMG-1604.jpg!

Hi does this have Anduril 2.0? I just received mine. Clicking and hold 10c doesn’t change anything.

My link Aliexpress

My USB-C to Lightning cable doesn’t work with it.

b38jo
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Hi,

Have you had any updates?
I was trying to get more information about this light before I bought it and I wasn’t sure what you were saying lately, other than the situation is not clear to you either.

Did Sofirn make any changes in the led power supply that make the LT1 hotter? If so that’s a bit sad.
You mentioned the button leds, are there any plans to change that in the near future?
Does anyone have the footprint of the new flashing pads so I can try to make a connector to flash the firmware?

In general, should I take advantage of the small promotions to get it on the Sofirn site or wait for a new version? And if I order on Sofirn’s website, will I get the latest version or is it random?

Thanks for the information if you have any.
Have a nice day.

BatteryPowered
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I ended buying a second LT1 on Aliexpress because I liked the idea of having a USB-C compliant chip and being able to use it as a powerbank in a pinch.

Did some comparisons and made some pictures for you:

Old and new BLF LT1 board revisions

I have a USB-C Protocol and power analyzer, will test the new LT1 board later today.

BLF LT1 - BLF LT1 Anduril 2.0
Sofirn SP36 BLF Edition LH351D 5000K - Sofirn SC31 Pro SST40 5000K - "Bunch of Sofirn C01S BLF Editions
Convoy S2+ SST20 4000K
Astrolux M01 Nichia 219C

pol77
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Does anyone know how to differentiate which of the ground (black) cables from the new (with power bank) driver connects to the warm and which to the cold LEDs?

angerdan
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Since the manual PDF file on google is offline, who knows where to find it now?
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HIFCFcBus5XRjKMfgkjAR7nH1R62qp_5

Here’s an Anduril 2 graphic for the LT1:
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/76941
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Q7dsbhbpbUWRUrabF3NkLrb9yrbqdVCH/view

Lux-Perpetua
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angerdan wrote:
Since the manual PDF file on google is offline, who knows where to find it now?

If you are looking for the original LT1 manual (and other Sofirn manuals), please check here:

>>> Sofirn Sharepoint <<<

I had to redeploy my files on Google Drive because the old links did not work anymore.

If you are looking for the manual of the new LT1 with Andúril 2, I need to ask you for patience. It is work in progress already. I do have a manual that Sofirn made on their own and that is currently being supplied with the new LT1 version. But there is a lot of wrong or missing information in it, it’s not worth putting it onto the sharepoint.

angerdan
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Sunnysunsun wrote:
What in the world? There will soon be more LT1 variations than FW3A variations.
We had the original, the one that supports type C-C, the new one with screwed up pads and powerbank out, and now this one with pads but without the POT.
These versions are known:

version date post URL
lexel 4.3 19.08.2020 https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1797476#comment-1797476
lexel 5.0 16.12.2020 https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1659824#comment-1659824
lexel 5.1 11.07.2021 https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1782316#comment-1782316
Sofirn 1.0 11.07.2021 https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1782272#comment-1782272
Sofirn A2 11.07.2021 https://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1782486#comment-1782486

Any more known board versions out there?
And what are the differences?

xevious
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In a nutshell, is Sofirn A2 the “best” release of the LT1 thus far?
Also, if someone is OK with Anduril 1 and doesn’t intend to leverage the power bank feature, is it preferable to get the earlier version? I’m really concerned about all of these intermediary board changes. And I’m sure with the way things are, you can’t request a sub-version, only the LT1 Anduril-1 or LT2 Anduril-2.

story
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Lux-Perpetua wrote:

DrBashir wrote:
Quick update. My “Sofirn 1.0” Powerbank LT1 does not charge my iPhone with a USB C-A adapter. But it will charge my Wurkkos FC11 with that adapter.

Did you try using a USB-C to Apple Lightning cable when charging your iPhone? I suppose the iPhone‘s chipset expects a special code in order to start charging. When you use a type A to type C adapter in between, the chipset communication between LT1 and iPhone might become corrupted.

My Sofirn 1.0 LT1 has limited power bank capabilities. It doesn’t work with Apple USB-C to Lightning while the Wurkkos HD20 works with the cable. It’s also on Anduril 1 without version check.

xevious
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story wrote:
My Sofirn 1.0 LT1 has limited power bank capabilities. It doesn’t work with Apple USB-C to Lightning while the Wurkkos HD20 works with it.
Good to know this. Has anyone found that Sofirn A2 avoids that problem and a USB-C to Apple Lightning will charge an Apple device (iPod, iPad, iPhone, etc.)?
blueb8llz
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Where is the cheapest to get a Sofirn lt1 these days? I don’t mind getting version 1 without the power bank.

angerdan
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blueb8llz wrote:
Where is the cheapest to get a Sofirn lt1 these days? I don’t mind getting version 1 without the power bank.
Cheapest would be from Sofirn store. But you have to consider shipping as well:
$52 – https://www.sofirnlight.com/products/brown-lt1-lantern-anduril1-usb-rech...
$58 – https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000238008009.html
$70 – https://www.ebay.com/itm/384253590938
$93 – https://www.amazon.com/Lantern%EF%BC%8CSofirn-Rechargeable-Resistant-Fla...
blueb8llz
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Thank you. Ordered the brown one in Sofirn website.

Fruityfrog
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Hi There. I could really do with a little bit of help.
I bought myself an LT1 Anduril 2 in that really wicked on the eyes orange colour.

Anyway, my problem is that my LT1 will not allow me to set a timer in candle mode.
No signal flashes and also no time attributed to the number of button presses.
I now have a new problem called “Anduril 2 Thumb”

Thank U for the Light.

SammysHP
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@Fruityfrog
Assuming you’re already in advanced UI (not candle mode otherwise): click five times and hold the last one. The light will flash every second, each adding five minutes to the timer.

story
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I got the Sofirn v1.0 and BLF-LT1-A2.

BLF-LT1-A2
- The green power button light is on even when it’s in use. It’s necessary as it’s hard to find the button when you need to turn it off. It’s distracting.
- Power bank works with my USB-C to USB-A adapter for iPhone

Sofirn v1.0
- The amber light will be dim when it’s on. It’s too dim to be useful when I want to turn off my LT1.
- Power bank doesn’t work with my USB-C to USB adapter for iPhone
- Power bank works with USB-C to USB-C, I can power the SP36
- Anduril 1

I like the Sofirn v1.0 during standby. I keep this in the corner on a selfie stick with tripod mount. With the button towards the corner, it would reflect a very nice ambience light at night. It’s frankly easier to turn off the LT1 with my index finger when the button is away from me.

I will update it to Anduril 2 and see if the power bank will work for iPhone.

I just ordered an orange LT1, but that green light is making me change my mind.

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