If you got your lantern recently than just like @Rayoui mentioned first you have to switch to advanced mode to be able to use this future.
To switch to the advanced mode: from off 10 clicks and hold
… I should have refreshed the page before searching, that was exactly what I was missing
thx !
BLF is the best forum around to be a part of.
No worries, glad to hear you got it working.
Thanks guys. I couldn’t change the LED switch light by pressing 7 clicks from off. Was a little annoyed but was putting this down to a software quirk.
Followed the instructions to get into advance mode. I can change the LED switch light now. Bought 2 LT1 over a 2 week span. One was already in advance mode while the other was not.
Patiently waiting for the green and orange one to be available on the Sofirn Cdn webstore.
@Cigarguy
You can get one in Sofirn store on AliExpress
Mine came within 12 days from ordering to GTA, perhaps quicker to Calgary since you`re so close to Vancouver where usually the cargo plane lands, according to shipment tracking.
Without batteries came to a grand total of C$ 64.25 .
@Cigarguy You can get one in Sofirn store on "AliExpress":https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000238008009.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0... Mine came within 12 days from ordering to GTA, perhaps quicker to Calgary since you`re so close to Vancouver where usually the cargo plane lands, according to shipment tracking. Without batteries came to a grand total of C$ 64.25 .
I generally order mine off their Chinese website and get them in under two weeks. I get charged sales tax (marked as VAT) but, shipping is free and delivery is fast so I keep going back to their store.
My recently delivered LT1-A2 was received in Advanced UI mode, and set to stepped ramping.
There obviously seems to be some inconsistency in how the units are actually prepared, and shipped, making any assumptions tenuous. Perhaps the same folks who (inconsistently) run Jinba’s labeling machines also prepare and flash the drivers. Any bets on how many “Sofrin” lights have made it into the wild? There must be at least some.
My unit also left the factory with the switch and its lights clocked at 10 degrees off vertical (not unlike thisreview sample), which my OCD would not allow to go uncorrected.
I was not aware of how the switch PCB and well it rests in are designed, but discovered that they are indeed shaped/indexed to prevent this, and it was a result of sloppy assembly practice that resulted in it being misaligned.
That said, those were the only lapses I found with mine, and overall, the LT1 is quite pleasing and deserved of its reputation.
I don’t mind the much-lamented green switch illumination of the newest revision, but the blue is kind of odd, and I wish the blinking mode was more like the breathing/pulsing mode like the SC31B had. Not sure if that is the result of intention, or a limitation of some sort, but a more refined implementation would actually make it usable in my book.
Last thing I might wish for is some Anduril documentation that is a cleaner, happy medium between a spaghetti-like chart and a wall of text.
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3 // I get way more privmsgs than I can respond to, so please ask in a public thread if possible, for a faster answer.
TheIntruder wrote:
My recently delivered LT1-A2 was received in Advanced UI mode, and set to stepped ramping.
There obviously seems to be some inconsistency in how the units are actually prepared…
Some ship with Anduril 1, and some ship with Anduril 2. The version check function (15 or more clicks from off) should show which version it has:
2020-06-02 or earlier: Anduril 1
2020-07 or later: Anduril 2
As for config differences, those can be wiped out using the factory reset function. Loosen the tube enough to break contact, then hold the button and tighten the tube. Keep holding the button for about 5 seconds, until after it flashes at full power, then let go.
It’s a good idea to factory-reset any new Anduril-based light, at room temperature, to reset the config and calibrate the thermal sensor. Generally I also write down what version check says, and then reflash it with the latest firmware.
TheIntruder wrote:
switch illumination … I wish the blinking mode was more like the breathing/pulsing mode like the SC31B had.
The “breathing mode” isn’t implemented because it requires keeping the control chip awake to do pulse width modulation on the button LEDs, and this greatly reduces standby time. A breathing mode eats up the battery about 40X faster than the blinking mode. It varies per model, but in general it’s approximately the same power usage as just leaving the light in moon mode all the time.
Another issue is, on many lights, the button LEDs and aux LEDs aren’t connected to hardware PWM pins, so it would have to be done manually… which looks glitchy due to timing issues. Instead of being smooth, there’s typically visible noise in the signal.
So instead it does a 2-level blinking pattern. It’s energy-efficient, reliable on lots of different hardware, and doesn’t use up much ROM space.
My recently delivered LT1-A2 was received in Advanced UI mode, and set to stepped ramping.
There obviously seems to be some inconsistency in how the units are actually prepared…
Some ship with Anduril 1, and some ship with Anduril 2. The version check function (15 or more clicks from off) should show which version it has:
2020-06-02 or earlier: Anduril 1
2020-07 or later: Anduril 2
As for config differences, those can be wiped out using the factory reset function. Loosen the tube enough to break contact, then hold the button and tighten the tube. Keep holding the button for about 5 seconds, until after it flashes at full power, then let go.
It’s a good idea to factory-reset any new Anduril-based light, at room temperature, to reset the config and calibrate the thermal sensor. Generally I also write down what version check says, and then reflash it with the latest firmware.
Any documentation on how to build a flashing kit for the latest mcpcb?
Some ship with Anduril 1, and some ship with Anduril 2. The version check function (15 or more clicks from off) should show which version it has:
2020-06-02 or earlier: Anduril 1
2020-07 or later: Anduril 2
As for config differences, those can be wiped out using the factory reset function. Loosen the tube enough to break contact, then hold the button and tighten the tube. Keep holding the button for about 5 seconds, until after it flashes at full power, then let go.
I ordered the latest Anduril 2.0 version from the AX store, which has the fifth-generation (IIRC) “BLT-LT1-A2” driver, green/blue switch LEDs, and power bank function (the last of which I have yet to test). The package label also identifies it as “Q8LT1” which someone suggested also indicates the latest version.
After being taken out of locked mode, it turns on, which according to a simple tip, indicates it’s running Anduril 2,
However, unlike my SC31Pro, which clearly blinks out the expected version (2020-03-18) during a version check, I get an odd result from the LT1, seemingly with extra digits:
2-0-2-0-0-1-2-5-0-6-2-1
How should that be interpreted?
ToyKeeper wrote:
It’s a good idea to factory-reset any new Anduril-based light, at room temperature, to reset the config and calibrate the thermal sensor. Generally I also write down what version check says, and then reflash it with the latest firmware.
I’ve performed the thermal calibration with my other lights, but have read that since the LT1’s remote LEDs aren’t close enough to the sensor to get a usable reading, the thermal functions are disabled, or at least, rendered moot. Is that not the case? Should LT1 owners perform the thermal calibration procedure in any case?
ToyKeeper wrote:
The “breathing mode” isn’t implemented because it requires keeping the control chip awake to do pulse width modulation on the button LEDs, and this greatly reduces standby time. A breathing mode eats up the battery about 40X faster than the blinking mode. It varies per model, but in general it’s approximately the same power usage as just leaving the light in moon mode all the time.
Another issue is, on many lights, the button LEDs and aux LEDs aren’t connected to hardware PWM pins, so it would have to be done manually… which looks glitchy due to timing issues. Instead of being smooth, there’s typically visible noise in the signal.
So instead it does a 2-level blinking pattern. It’s energy-efficient, reliable on lots of different hardware, and doesn’t use up much ROM space.
Thanks for providing a clear, and logical explanation, which is often not returned in these, and other discussions.
However, unlike my SC31Pro, which clearly blinks out the expected version (2020-03-18) during a version check, I get an odd result from the LT1, seemingly with extra digits:
2-0-2-0-0-1-2-5-0-6-2-1
How should that be interpreted?
It is 2021-01-25 0621. The last four digits are the model number.
However, unlike my SC31Pro, which clearly blinks out the expected version (2020-03-18) during a version check, I get an odd result from the LT1, seemingly with extra digits:
2-0-2-0-0-1-2-5-0-6-2-1
How should that be interpreted?
It is 2021-01-25 0621. The last four digits are the model number.
I suspected the last few digits might be a variant, or sub-version of some kind. Is that an Anduril 2 thing?
More puzzling was the 2020/2021 discrepancy. I could have sworn I repeatedly saw an extra zero before the one, but after further review, I now see it correctly. Maybe I need to lay off the sauce…
Further observations — I don’t intend to rely on the power bank feature, but tested it anyway to verify that it works. It does, at least for a short observed period. I assume that the amber “sufficient charge” indicator that remains lit for a brief period after the cable is detached applies to both when the LT1 acts as a source, as well as the sink, and being charged itself. The wording in the manual is vague, and doesn’t note that.
Charging the LT1 via an A-to-C cable results in the flashing blue indicator, as expected. However, charging it via a C-to-C cable results in a flashing amber, not blue, indicator. Is that the expected behavior?
I like to have digital equivalents of documentation, and since I haven’t been able to find the manual for the A2 version, aside from a photograph of it, I’ve scanned the printed manual myself (despite whatever E&O it may have).
It looks like there are few versions of Sofirn A4 boards now. The questions about the flashing key have come up already.
I am adding one more. Those 8 pads, 1 through 8, are probably corresponding to the pins, 1 though 8, on the chip. We need to confirm it. My question is more basic. Is it just me that the alignment of those pads looks like curved, not straight? If it is indeed curved, it looks like straight enough. So, the pcb for the key from Oshpark probably works, assuming the spacing is OK. The pins just need to be wired correctly.
By the way, I can see it is the “A4” board in the picture.
skatiol wrote:
I ordered from Aliexpress and got a Sofirn A4 board, no powerbank function compared to the A2.
Indicator button on mine is blue in use and in standby and orange when charging.
It does have a powerbank function, didn't get it to work yesterday with the same cable for some reason. The version is 202108290621. Here's a better lit picture:
I ordered from Aliexpress and got a Sofirn A4 board, no powerbank function compared to the A2. edit: I was wrong
Indicator button on mine is blue in use and in standby and orange when charging.
odd.. i haven’t seen this version of the MCPCB before. I don’t know why Sofirn is changing the boards in this manner. Maybe Barry can answer these questions?
—
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Pick a colour, any colour and someone somewhere will not like it. Just human nature. I myself I’m used to red, yellow/orange and green from traffic lights and traffic signs. My mind associate those colours to certain pattern of behavior.
Both of mine are a steady green in normal use with blue and orange when used as a power bank or charging. I lower the intensity of the LED button because I prefer it that way. I had it off for a while and found that I miss having the green indicator light. I use one almost everyday on the jobsite and always 1/4 turn to manually unlock before putting it back into its storage bag. It’s good to know at a glance that it is ready to go and do not require 1/4 turn to engage the batteries and vice versa when I’m ready to put it away.
It does have a powerbank function, didn’t get it to work yesterday with the same cable for some reason. The version is 202108290621. Here’s a better lit picture:
Thanks for the info. So it looks like the BLF-LT1-A4 has an updated Anduril version
For reference: the BLF-LT1-A2 – Anduril 2 version check shows 2021-01-25 model 621, so this A4 has a more updated firmware version (January 2021 vs August 2021). Not sure if there are any significant differences though between those 2 versions.
However, I wonder if any chips inside the driver board could also have changed…
I got a LT1 with the latest board and tested the 8 flashing pads and the 8 pins of the ATtiny85 with a multimeter. I can confirm that they correspond to each other. See the labelled photo below.
I am going to try to update it to the latest firmware with 200% turbo once I get my SOIC clip.
BLF is the best forum around to be a part of.
No worries, glad to hear you got it working.
***Rofis MR70*TurnRaise*Catapult V6*BLF Q8*BLF Mini*BLF Micro*Haikelite MT09R* Convoy C8*BLF D80v2 SST40*MatemincoX6S*AstroluxFT03-xhp50.2*AstroluxFT03-sst40*BLF-LT1*AstroluxFT03S-SBT90.2***
Thanks guys. I couldn’t change the LED switch light by pressing 7 clicks from off. Was a little annoyed but was putting this down to a software quirk.
Followed the instructions to get into advance mode. I can change the LED switch light now. Bought 2 LT1 over a 2 week span. One was already in advance mode while the other was not.
Patiently waiting for the green and orange one to be available on the Sofirn Cdn webstore.
@Cigarguy
You can get one in Sofirn store on AliExpress
Mine came within 12 days from ordering to GTA, perhaps quicker to Calgary since you`re so close to Vancouver where usually the cargo plane lands, according to shipment tracking.
Without batteries came to a grand total of C$ 64.25 .
***Rofis MR70*TurnRaise*Catapult V6*BLF Q8*BLF Mini*BLF Micro*Haikelite MT09R* Convoy C8*BLF D80v2 SST40*MatemincoX6S*AstroluxFT03-xhp50.2*AstroluxFT03-sst40*BLF-LT1*AstroluxFT03S-SBT90.2***
I generally order mine off their Chinese website and get them in under two weeks. I get charged sales tax (marked as VAT) but, shipping is free and delivery is fast so I keep going back to their store.
My recently delivered LT1-A2 was received in Advanced UI mode, and set to stepped ramping.
There obviously seems to be some inconsistency in how the units are actually prepared, and shipped, making any assumptions tenuous. Perhaps the same folks who (inconsistently) run Jinba’s labeling machines also prepare and flash the drivers. Any bets on how many “Sofrin” lights have made it into the wild? There must be at least some.
My unit also left the factory with the switch and its lights clocked at 10 degrees off vertical (not unlike this review sample), which my OCD would not allow to go uncorrected.
I was not aware of how the switch PCB and well it rests in are designed, but discovered that they are indeed shaped/indexed to prevent this, and it was a result of sloppy assembly practice that resulted in it being misaligned.
That said, those were the only lapses I found with mine, and overall, the LT1 is quite pleasing and deserved of its reputation.
I don’t mind the much-lamented green switch illumination of the newest revision, but the blue is kind of odd, and I wish the blinking mode was more like the breathing/pulsing mode like the SC31B had. Not sure if that is the result of intention, or a limitation of some sort, but a more refined implementation would actually make it usable in my book.
Last thing I might wish for is some Anduril documentation that is a cleaner, happy medium between a spaghetti-like chart and a wall of text.
Thanks guys.
A package came in today. Do you know what’s even better than an LT1?
Two LT1s.
WTS: DM11
WTB: FW3X, E12R, E07x Pro, NOV-MU, K1, DM11, others
(he/ him)
Some ship with Anduril 1, and some ship with Anduril 2. The version check function (15 or more clicks from off) should show which version it has:
As for config differences, those can be wiped out using the factory reset function. Loosen the tube enough to break contact, then hold the button and tighten the tube. Keep holding the button for about 5 seconds, until after it flashes at full power, then let go.
It’s a good idea to factory-reset any new Anduril-based light, at room temperature, to reset the config and calibrate the thermal sensor. Generally I also write down what version check says, and then reflash it with the latest firmware.
The “breathing mode” isn’t implemented because it requires keeping the control chip awake to do pulse width modulation on the button LEDs, and this greatly reduces standby time. A breathing mode eats up the battery about 40X faster than the blinking mode. It varies per model, but in general it’s approximately the same power usage as just leaving the light in moon mode all the time.
Another issue is, on many lights, the button LEDs and aux LEDs aren’t connected to hardware PWM pins, so it would have to be done manually… which looks glitchy due to timing issues. Instead of being smooth, there’s typically visible noise in the signal.
So instead it does a 2-level blinking pattern. It’s energy-efficient, reliable on lots of different hardware, and doesn’t use up much ROM space.
Any documentation on how to build a flashing kit for the latest mcpcb?
Nope. It’s really unfortunate that they changed it.
It should still work with a SOIC8 clip though, clipping directly onto the chip on the other side of the driver.
I ordered the latest Anduril 2.0 version from the AX store, which has the fifth-generation (IIRC) “BLT-LT1-A2” driver, green/blue switch LEDs, and power bank function (the last of which I have yet to test). The package label also identifies it as “Q8LT1” which someone suggested also indicates the latest version.
After being taken out of locked mode, it turns on, which according to a simple tip, indicates it’s running Anduril 2,
However, unlike my SC31Pro, which clearly blinks out the expected version (2020-03-18) during a version check, I get an odd result from the LT1, seemingly with extra digits:
2-0-2-0-0-1-2-5-0-6-2-1
How should that be interpreted?
I’ve performed the thermal calibration with my other lights, but have read that since the LT1’s remote LEDs aren’t close enough to the sensor to get a usable reading, the thermal functions are disabled, or at least, rendered moot. Is that not the case? Should LT1 owners perform the thermal calibration procedure in any case?
Thanks for providing a clear, and logical explanation, which is often not returned in these, and other discussions.
It is 2021-01-25 0621. The last four digits are the model number.
2020?
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
No, 2021, as it can be clearly seen in the linked video.
Hmmmm….. I was looking at the numbers TheIntruder used in his question
“ 2-0-2-0-0-1-2-5-0-6-2-1 How should that be interpreted? “ …. not the video….
Im not a Pessimist …. just an Optimist with a lot of experience
A little John Prine
I suspected the last few digits might be a variant, or sub-version of some kind. Is that an Anduril 2 thing?
More puzzling was the 2020/2021 discrepancy. I could have sworn I repeatedly saw an extra zero before the one, but after further review, I now see it correctly. Maybe I need to lay off the sauce…
Further observations — I don’t intend to rely on the power bank feature, but tested it anyway to verify that it works. It does, at least for a short observed period. I assume that the amber “sufficient charge” indicator that remains lit for a brief period after the cable is detached applies to both when the LT1 acts as a source, as well as the sink, and being charged itself. The wording in the manual is vague, and doesn’t note that.
Charging the LT1 via an A-to-C cable results in the flashing blue indicator, as expected. However, charging it via a C-to-C cable results in a flashing amber, not blue, indicator. Is that the expected behavior?
I seen it was changed. I’m more familiar with the original MCPCB design, but haven’t had the chance to study the most recent.
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
I like to have digital equivalents of documentation, and since I haven’t been able to find the manual for the A2 version, aside from a photograph of it, I’ve scanned the printed manual myself (despite whatever E&O it may have).
I’ve made it available here.
I ordered from Aliexpress and got a Sofirn A4 board, no powerbank function compared to the A2. edit: I was wrong
Indicator button on mine is blue in use and in standby and orange when charging.
This makes zero sense. Did Sofirn make another version of the mcpcb?
Can you take a clearer picture so we can read what is on the mcpcb?
It looks like there are few versions of Sofirn A4 boards now. The questions about the flashing key have come up already.
I am adding one more. Those 8 pads, 1 through 8, are probably corresponding to the pins, 1 though 8, on the chip. We need to confirm it. My question is more basic. Is it just me that the alignment of those pads looks like curved, not straight? If it is indeed curved, it looks like straight enough. So, the pcb for the key from Oshpark probably works, assuming the spacing is OK. The pins just need to be wired correctly.
By the way, I can see it is the “A4” board in the picture.
Now that is really confusing.
Were you able to verify that it really does not have powerbank out function?
Also, would you be able to check what is the Anduril version / date-model code?
(do 15 clicks from Off, then count the blinks)
It does have a powerbank function, didn't get it to work yesterday with the same cable for some reason. The version is 202108290621. Here's a better lit picture:
odd.. i haven’t seen this version of the MCPCB before. I don’t know why Sofirn is changing the boards in this manner. Maybe Barry can answer these questions?
That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight
Yikes, it some thought green was objectionable, then blue could be a deal breaker.
Reserve the blue beacons for things like locating phones to summon campus security.
Pick a colour, any colour and someone somewhere will not like it. Just human nature. I myself I’m used to red, yellow/orange and green from traffic lights and traffic signs. My mind associate those colours to certain pattern of behavior.
Both of mine are a steady green in normal use with blue and orange when used as a power bank or charging. I lower the intensity of the LED button because I prefer it that way. I had it off for a while and found that I miss having the green indicator light. I use one almost everyday on the jobsite and always 1/4 turn to manually unlock before putting it back into its storage bag. It’s good to know at a glance that it is ready to go and do not require 1/4 turn to engage the batteries and vice versa when I’m ready to put it away.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/printedniche?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listi...
If anyone needs any accessories for LT1
Well done!
Review: 150 Million Candlepower Military Xenon Arc Battlefield Illuminator (AN/VSS-3A)
My new collection of 50+ Chinese knives
Thanks for the info. So it looks like the BLF-LT1-A4 has an updated Anduril version
For reference: the BLF-LT1-A2 – Anduril 2 version check shows 2021-01-25 model 621, so this A4 has a more updated firmware version (January 2021 vs August 2021). Not sure if there are any significant differences though between those 2 versions.
However, I wonder if any chips inside the driver board could also have changed…
I got a LT1 with the latest board and tested the 8 flashing pads and the 8 pins of the ATtiny85 with a multimeter. I can confirm that they correspond to each other. See the labelled photo below.
I am going to try to update it to the latest firmware with 200% turbo once I get my SOIC clip.
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