BLF Kronos X5 mod x6 mod faq thread tailcaplight

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Werner
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BLF Kronos X5 mod x6 mod faq thread tailcaplight

After seeing a lot of useful infos buried in the groupbuy thread I thought we could need a thread were we copy and link useful infos and mods which interest a lot of us.
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Tailcap light

Post #6126

ToyKeeper wrote:
Sharpie wrote:
My X5 takes about 0.7 mA with a full cell , to light the tailcap. My X5 cells only have 650 mAh.

And I expect it to fall in a slightly complicated manner, until the tail LED forward voltage is reached.

If linear, I’d predict about 2.5 months to a totally flat battery. In reality rather worse.


The production tailcaps behave the same as the blue line here. This is measured, not estimated. I’d say it’s pretty close to linear…

The tail LED continues to light until about 2.2V or 2.3V.

That means that a normal 14500 lasts about 2 month until it’s empty. Given the fact that it’s pretty bright there is potential to customize it. The higher the resistor in the tailcap the lower the current/brightness of the LED. If someone wants to disable the light permanently the resistor could be un soldered totally.


In stock form there is a 202 resistor which is 20*10^2=2000ohm

I just used a 0805 3900ohm resistor which reduces the current about half, it’s still pretty bright at night and still visible in daylight so the value could be chosen even higher.
I used 0805 resistors like that: https://www.fasttech.com/p/1005200 but they seem to be out of stock so this https://www.fasttech.com/products/1002/10000028/1007902 will do the job too.
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Edited by: Werner on 02/23/2016 - 17:11
djozz
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Good thread!
Here’s some 0805 and smaller 0603 leds if you feel like changing the colour, or occupy the pads on the other side of the switch for an extra led:
https://www.fasttech.com/search?0805%20led
https://www.fasttech.com/search?0603%20SMD%20SMT%20led
Ebay is full of 0805 leds and 0603 leds as well, but usually way way more expensive!

dude5
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I have a few questions.

1. does the 3.9 kOhm resistor drain the battery any slower?
2. Can this tail switch be replaced by a non lighted tail switch? does it need any special resistors to make the flashlight function properly?
3. Fasttech seems to be out of those resistors, can you provide another link? or do you have any extras laying around you would part with? Maybe a higher resistance for a dimmer light?
edit: fasttech says they are discontinued

djozz
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1) it does drain the battery slower
2)tail switch can be replaced by a non-lighted one (or just unsolder/break off the resistor or led)
3)search ebay for 0805 led or 0603 led, or the entire web, these are not rare components

netprince
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I need to change the resistors in mine out… much dimmer would be nice. Not sure what the optimal value would be, but I’d like the battery to last maybe 6mo-1year…

djozz
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netprince wrote:
I need to change the resistors in mine out… much dimmer would be nice. Not sure what the optimal value would be, but I’d like the battery to last maybe 6mo-1year…

That resistor is the main current limiting component in the tail-led circuitry, so it will not be that far from: double the resistor value -> double the battery drain time. (anyone not agree?)
pilotdog68
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I think Manker may have used 0805 for the LEDs and 0603 for the resistor.

For just dim enough to see and long lasting battery, look for a resistor in the 8k-12kohm range. That should give about a year on an 18650 if I remember correctly.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

bdiddle
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I replaced my tail switch board with one of PD68’s designs (Rev3), used 2x multicolor leds and a single 22K resistor. Also changed the bleeder on the driver to a 604 ohm bleeder. In daylight its hard to see, but in the dark the tailcap is perfectly well lit.

Newb

dude5
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bdiddle wrote:
I replaced my tail switch board with one of PD68’s designs (Rev3), used 2x multicolor leds and a single 22K resistor. Also changed the bleeder on the driver to a 604 ohm bleeder. In daylight its hard to see, but in the dark the tailcap is perfectly well lit.

Can you you describe the advantage of changing the bleeder?

1dash1
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By the time this thread is through, I think you’ll need an index to keep track of all the different FAQ’s. Otherwise, it will take almost as long searching this thread as it would to sort the original thread.

Rule 1-1 as it applies to life, take it as it comes.

djozz
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dude5 wrote:

Can you you describe the advantage of changing the bleeder?


A higher resistant bleeder will lower the parasitic current when the light is on, something negligable at the higher modes, but in moon mode there is 3 times as much current as without the bleeder, limiting the runtime on moon (in the X5) from a week to only 2 days.

The bleeder value can not be too high or it will affect the timing of the firmware, messing up the UI. But a higher resistor in the tail will allow a higher value for the bleeder without affecting the UI.

bdiddle
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When I used the 604 ohm bleeder with 11K for the tail leds, the driver never switched off fully. Basically maintained mode memory. When I increased the tail led resistor to 22K, driver went back to normal.

Newb

lostheplot
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were can we get a driver out of the manker godmes T01 to fit in the x5 or similar output driver off single aa

sorry all images down
thanks photobucket

Brett530
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My stock resistor was 0805 size in my X6. I put in an 18k resistor in its place. Its now bright enough to be seen and doesn’t light up the room like it used to. The moded X6 on the left, the stock X5 on the right (just for comparison).
! photo 20160225_201221_zpshb6i8gyw.jpg!

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Most of this was already covered in this thread, but I’ll paste my explanation here too so it doesn’t get lost in the other thread.

pilotdog68 wrote:
timbo114 wrote:
I’m wondering … How could one disable the tailcap LED?

Hopefully my cell phone pictures will be clear enough to see what I’m talking about.

Disclaimer: Messing with these resistors will probably have effects on switch short/medium/long press timing. It shouldn’t be anything drastic, and it may even be a positive effect, but be aware.
…………………………………………………………………………

If you unscrew the switch retaining ring, this is what will come out.

Circled is the resistor that sets the brightness of the tail led. The stock resistor is 2kOhm. If you want the tail to be a different brightness, change this resistor. The higher the resistor value, the lower the brightness. Other people have had good luck with 8-12kOhm resistors. If you are ordering these resistors, look for either “0603” or “0805” package sizes. If you search, they can easily be found all over the internet.

If you want to shut off the tail LED altogether, remove this resistor or at least disconnect one end of it.
………………………………………………………………………..

If you unscrew the driver retaining ring, this is what will come out.

Circled is the bleeder resistor. This resistor allows a small amount of power to bypass the driver and main LED at all times. The driver needs this to function when the tail LED is installed. It is not absolutely necessary to remove it if you only want to get rid of the glowing blue light, but removing the bleeder will greatly increase efficiency in the lowest mode(s).

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

tristanxoxo
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Thanks PilotDog! If I want to add an LED to the other side of the board, do I also have to add another resistor?

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If Banggood/Manker used my Rev3 trace layout like they did with the prototypes, no you do not need to add a second resistor.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

djozz
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Sharpie wrote:
pilotdog68 wrote:
If Banggood/Manker used my Rev3 trace layout like they did with the prototypes, no you do not need to add a second resistor.

Does that mean the LEDs should be matched Vf, i.e. if connected in parallel ?

Or is it possible to tune each, with separate resistors ?


There’s a trace goi g under the switch to the other side, if you want to use the separate resistor pad you need to cut that trace.
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I’d like to change the tailcap LED on a couple X5/X6 lights to another color and add a second LED. I’ll also switch to a 12k – 18k tailcap resistor to dim the output.

Should the replacement LEDs be of a certain Vf? I didn’t see mention of what voltage range the LEDs should be in.

Are some LED colors more/less affected by resistor values? I plan on trying green, amber, red, and white tailcap LEDs. Thanks!

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Different colors have different Vf’s and also different apparent brightness due to eye/wavelength sensitivity.youll probably have to play with the resistor values if you want to use different colors but have them look the same and be the brightness you desire.

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hank
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If someone out there is considering doing a little business modding tailcaps — I think a bunch of us are waiting for you.

I don’t know how well the tailcaps “lego” from one flashlight to the next (so I don’t know if it would work to do an exchange — send in one, get a modded one back promptly)
or whether each person’s tailcap would have to be modded and returned (guessing someone just picked from a bin until she got a tailcap that fit onto a tube — I’ve suspected they had fairly wide variability in the threads).

But dagnabbit, I’m never going to be able to solder at that teeny size, and I sure would like amber/yellow as a tailcap color.

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Rufusbduck wrote:
Different colors have different Vf’s and also different apparent brightness due to eye/wavelength sensitivity.youll probably have to play with the resistor values if you want to use different colors but have them look the same and be the brightness you desire.

Thanks for the tip, I was concerned that an incorrect Vf might alter the driver circuit.

I’ll experiment and report back.

Werner
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You can have a look at Piloddogs tailcap led thread, a lot of people reported there findings in it so you can proabably reduce the trial and error to a minimum.
I will change my resistor to a lot bigger one in the next week, I am aiming for below 100uA.

ReManG
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Thanks to this thread, I removed the bleeder resistors and the tailcap ones on my X5’s! Thanks Werner…

I think the X5 is an awesome little light, and without the parasitic drain on the small 14500, will make for a excellent little light with decent run time on lower levels now.

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Had a little time to play with my toys and the result is here..
kronos_leds.jpg
Barely visible in daylight – just perfect.
Moved the one blue led from X5 to X6 for more even and uniform look. Both originally measured 0.6mA in tail. Now 0.16mA with blue leds and 0.24mA with amber/orange leds. Original 2kOhm resistor swapped with 10kOhm (one resistor for both leds).
Very happy with the outcome Beer

Overkill is just about enough!

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I received my X5 a few weeks ago directly by manker (Donation to Old-Lumnens )

I really like it in general and the lighted tailcap is pretty useful. After I used the light for about 30 minutes continuously the tailcap started to behave strange. The tailcap light is now dimmer than it was before (yes, even after recharging the battery) and it flickers sometimes. I was not able to take apart the tailcap yet, since the retaining ring sits tightly.

Do you guys have any ideas what is causing this?

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I’ve had that problem before, but I’m not sure exactly how I solved it. Try reseating the switch. Also try removing the retaining ring and cleaning all contact areas.

cncyana
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Just measured the dimensions of the blue LED on the tailcap board of my Kronos X6 and it looks like its a 1206 size LED.

The #202 resistor looks like an 0805 size but the blue LED is much larger.

Also, the pads for the LED on the other side (for those who want to add a second LED) seem too far apart to be sized for a 0805 LED.

Can anyone confirm the LED on the Manker tailcap board is indeed a 1206 size?

Thank you.

Life’s Questions/Answers here: http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp “So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God.” Romans 14:12

Wieselflinkpro
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The Astrolux S41 and S41S has the same boards as the X6 and X5.
0805 LEDs will fit too.

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I can’t confirm that they’re definitely 1206 size, but I can confirm they’re bigger than 0805. 1206 is a reasonable guess.

But like wieselfink said, 0805s will work. Just put a decent sized blob of solder on both pads, then use a tweezer or some other small clamping device to hold the 0805 right in the middle. Touch your iron to one of the blobs and “drag” it over to the contact on the emitter. Repeat. Done.

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ok, thanks guys. Will either use my 0805s or get bigger ones. I got purple 0805 LEDs but I may get bigger green ones since green is brighter to the eyes and therefore, can possibly be run at lower current values/higher resistor values.

Life’s Questions/Answers here: http://www.answersingenesis.org/home/area/qa.asp “So then, each of us will give an account of himself to God.” Romans 14:12

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