SALE: Low-cost copper pills, spacers, optics, drop-ins.

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kiriba-ru
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nofearek9 wrote:
adaptor to make flashlight switch less.

I was sure that it will take not more than 10 minutes to see right answer.
imagebam.com imagebam.com
nofearek9
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that was very helpfull:

kiriba-ru wrote:
Ok.
Yes, most blf members that have posted their messages in my thread own at least one flashlight where it can be used.
Wieselflinkpro
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kiriba-ru wrote:
nofearek9 wrote:
adaptor to make flashlight switch less.
I was sure that it will take not more than 10 minutes to see right answer. imagebam.com imagebam.com

Whats the need of it? To use it only as twisty-switch?
The only advantage I think is very low resistance.

Wieselflinkpro wrote:
Is it a switch button for momentary Switch?

I thought about it similar. But I thought it can be used instead of the Silicon-Rubber, but It would be tool long to use it with the switch.

It would be better to have Tailcap replacements to use as twisty-switch. Because that makes the flashlight shorter.

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Breaking small omten (omten style) switch is non rare thing if you use fet driver. New low Vf leds, new high drain cells, quad builds…15A for switch that was made up to 1.5A is to big IMO.
Also some X5/X6 drivers from banggood are very sensetive to resistance (you are building all well but turbo mode does not work. After some testing time I have realized that turbo mode can work if cell negative is short circuit to tube end with big piece of copper, but dont work with stock tail).

nofearek9
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with this spacer the DD triple will be bombs ,looking forward to try it on my xpl triple Smile

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Yeah that’s a neat idea. I don’t generally like using twisties on a daily basis, but I’ll still be ordering one of those with my next order to try it out.

Texas_Ace
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I have an old school WF-500 that has a combo twisty/push button tailcap.

It is much like this is that it has a solid hunk of aluminum in the tail but it also has a spring on it. This allows you to press the button down for momentary use or twist the cap for long term use.

Personally I have never had an issue with a 1288 dying from too much power but maybe I am not trying hard enough.

kiriba-ru
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They can work with big currents for long time, but when youll try to dimm it manually (beacon?) it will die fast.
Try to set your Bistro driver to one turbo mode only, and then enter settings. Once I have broke 2 of them until all setting were finished.

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Zero-Rez switch…. Facepalm

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Texas_Ace
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I just managed to sell a flashlight so I have a little money to spend (My budget on flashlight stuff has been frozen, I am only allowed to buy more stuff with money I receive from selling the stuff I already have).

I just ordered 2 ×6 hosts

I want to build them into triples, I see you have the aluminum spacers with the 10.6mm hight discounted to $3, is there a need for the glass lens? Will it still seal watertight without it? Is there a noticeable difference in heat dissipation with the copper version?

I am also interested in trying the C8 spacer when you get it done, when do you think that will be made?

Any other goodies not in the OP that I might be interested in while having you ship stuff my way anyways? I plan to grab some more S2 spacers as well.

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A spacer for the SRK that was setup to fit 4x quad setups for 16 LED’s would be an interesting. The 8x SRK models seem to be the most popular right now and the shell on all the ones I got had the same internal dimensions.

Or even just a slug to fill in the gaping hole under the LED’s. With said slug I have swapped the stock LB LED’s for XM-L2 U2’s and a TA driver and made over 9000 lumens. With a DTP MCPCB it should do more.

Just an idea if you run out of things to make.

kiriba-ru
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I havent build any light without glass lens. I think you can find better advices from other members about this option.
There is no difference in heat transfer, but visible difference in heat-accomodate mass. For first few minutes triple with copper spacer will be much colder, but difference will decrease and goes to the zero.
As I promised earlier I will send you one C8 triple spacer sample for free. I think copper version will be limited production for BLF members (it will make light too heavy for most users). I would like to make most of them from aluminium and have ordered it, unfortunately I wont be able to get it until mid of january. Anyway, first samples will be ready not earlier than end of January.
Other goods? Zero res switch, P60 single screw-ins, some P60 tail rings…seems thats all.

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Texas_Ace wrote:
I want to build them into triples, I see you have the aluminum spacers with the 10.6mm hight discounted to $3, is there a need for the glass lens? Will it still seal watertight without it? Is there a noticeable difference in heat dissipation with the copper version?

I tried without glass , but i don’t like how easily optics get scratches on them. Yes , it will still seal watertight .

About copper VS aluminum , i don’t think there will be a considerable difference using the copper one (plus , i really like the lightweight x6 triple when used with aluminum spacer ) .

kiriba-ru
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Texas_Ace wrote:
A spacer for the SRK that was setup to fit 4x quad setups for 16 LED’s would be an interesting. The 8x SRK models seem to be the most popular right now and the shell on all the ones I got had the same internal dimensions.

Or even just a slug to fill in the gaping hole under the LED’s. With said slug I have swapped the stock LB LED’s for XM-L2 U2’s and a TA driver and made over 9000 lumens. With a DTP MCPCB it should do more.

Just an idea if you run out of things to make.


Will do for 4xTriples for Q8, four quads are too big (24×2.41=58mm without any place between optics).
Slug for noname hosts is big problem. All clones are different, even one brand can sell SRK with different internals.
Texas_Ace
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giorgoskok wrote:
I tried without glass , but i don’t like how easily optics get scratches on them. Yes , it will still seal watertight .

About copper VS aluminum , i don’t think there will be a considerable difference using the copper one (plus , i really like the lightweight x6 triple when used with aluminum spacer ) .

Yeah, I have found I prefer the aluminum spacers in the S2 series for this reason the lighter weight is nice and while you may gain an extra 15-30 seconds of usable time before it gets too hot to hold with copper I don’t think it is worth it myself.

The X6 being so much larger I was not sure if the same things applied.

I am torn between glass or no glass. The optic does get scratched pretty easy but I don’t notice a lot of real world difference on my S2+‘s with them in output or beam pattern. I guess I can always order one of each and use it as an excuse to build another one later Wink

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I have a few of the no glass spacers. I’ve only used 1. It went into an EagleEye X6. It was to short without glass and to tall with. I arctic epoxied a flat ground copper shim in to make the bezel o-ring seal to the optic. I think it was around .040” thick.

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RotorHead64 wrote:
I have a few of the no glass spacers. I’ve only used 1. It went into an EagleEye X6. It was to short without glass and to tall with. I arctic epoxied a flat ground copper shim in to make the bezel o-ring seal to the optic. I think it was around .040” thick.

Hmm, might just switch my order to the with glass versions, the glass should not cause that much of a drop in lumens.

kiriba-ru
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RotorHead64 wrote:
I have a few of the no glass spacers. I’ve only used 1. It went into an EagleEye X6. It was to short without glass and to tall with. I arctic epoxied a flat ground copper shim in to make the bezel o-ring seal to the optic. I think it was around .040” thick.

Are you sure this were mine spacers?
I specially left X6 spacers height in the OP. Taller one should be 2.0mm bigger than more regular version. This is same or little (0.1-0.2mm) more than glass thickness.
P.S. More than 30pcs of 10.6 ×6 spacers were sold here. Waiting feedback from other members.
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kiriba-ru wrote:
RotorHead64 wrote:
I have a few of the no glass spacers. I've only used 1. It went into an EagleEye X6. It was to short without glass and to tall with. I arctic epoxied a flat ground copper shim in to make the bezel o-ring seal to the optic. I think it was around .040" thick.
Are you sure this were mine spacers? I specially left X6 spacers height in the OP. Taller one should be 2.0mm bigger than more regular version. This is same or little (0.1-0.2mm) more than glass thickness. P.S. More than 30pcs of 10.6 X6 spacers were sold here. Waiting feedback from other members.

Yes I'm sure.

The dimensions were spot on as far as your spacer is concerned. I figured it was just the difference from your host to mine. There's obviously some variances from host to host.

The o-ring was barely loose when the bezel was tightened. I simply put a shim underneath it to get a good squish on the o-ring. It worked great!

I considered it a non-issue. 

 

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Well, for me everything is issue, but same time some members are usual to use lots of tools, take of lots of material, and then saying “its ok, just little hand work”. I understand that some people like it (hand work) and taken good kit and building light without any drilling/cutting/filing is too simple for them. But here is also lots of people that started light modding just because my “ready for use” kits do exist.
I ask everyone who will or have met any problems (even small one) with my parts or who just have any suggests – please contact me with your ideas. If you have fixed problems yourself, you can help others to avoid them in future.

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I am going to stick with the 10.6mm versions, I can always 3D print a spacer for the o-ring if needed.

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kiriba-ru wrote:
I ask everyone who will or have met any problems (even small one) with my parts or who just have any suggests – please contact me with your ideas. If you have fixed problems yourself, you can help others to avoid them in future.

I had a small problem with one of your S2+ copper pills, bought off eBay before I joined the forum.

The threads right at the front of the pill were slightly squashed together, so it wouldn’t screw into the head. Managed to open them back up by putting the pill in backwards and screwing it down, fortunately the aluminium alloy is harder than copper Smile

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kiriba-ru wrote:
Well, for me everything is issue, but same time some members are usual to use lots of tools, take of lots of material, and then saying "its ok, just little hand work". I understand that some people like it (hand work) and taken good kit and building light without any drilling/cutting/filing is too simple for them. But here is also lots of people that started light modding just because my "ready for use" kits do exist. I ask everyone who will or have met any problems (even small one) with my parts or who just have any suggests - please contact me with your ideas. If you have fixed problems yourself, you can help others to avoid them in future.

I know what you mean but I don't know that it's entirely possible when working with these budget flashlights. There's gonna be differences from host to host.

Maybe it can get better but I don't think your gonna get them all just right when the host manufacturers have such high tolerances.

I'll be ordering more EagleEye X6's (they seem to be better quality) pretty soon and I'll measure each one and report back. 

These are great heatsinks already so having an average set of measurements from each brand of host is the only way I can see them getting better. 

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Erethryn wrote:

I had a small problem with one of your S2+ copper pills, bought off eBay before I joined the forum.

The threads right at the front of the pill were slightly squashed together, so it wouldn’t screw into the head. Managed to open them back up by putting the pill in backwards and screwing it down, fortunately the aluminium alloy is harder than copper Smile


Yes, I know that this problem exist. Sometimes copper is too soft and few last threads are trying to be bended instead of cutted. Will try to fix this in next batches.
Host from 6061T just pretends to be harder than copper. I have met problems when I used to use host for test how does pill fit. After operations that you have described with hundred of pills it had much larger threads than new one.
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Interested in one EEX6 Alu spacer 10.6mm, BLFX5 +SS liner, Manker U11 spacer+liner

Heading to bed. Will catch up in the morning. Thank you again

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Can someone PM me dimensions of triple Convoy S2+ spacer?
TIA. Mike

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Nicely packed.

Nice little box. Thanks Smile

Copper pill for triple Convoy S2+ & Carclo 10507


Tried screwing in the pill to the head no issue.

Completed the build with triple nichia 219C cri 80+ with LD-3 9Amps driver. Brass ring needs to be filed to make clearance for moonlight parts and prevent shorts on others parts of the driver. I filed too much on the brass ring. Lucky i have spares. Happy with the build.
I think it will be better if the pill has the 2 notches like the original for screwing it in. If i want to unscrew the pill sometimes only the brass ring gets unscrewed and not the pill.

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Let me know when you have some more of the Convoy M2 Carclo quad copper spacer+brass liner kits for sale.

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Ok. Get ready to the end of January.

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thanks for quad optics,spacers.it fit,its ok.soon i will order next batch:))

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