Hey my friends!
banggood sent me samples of their new Astrolux E01 / E02 flashlights
shoplinks:
Astrolux E01 CREE XP-L A6 Driver 900lumens 8modes Mini LED Flashlight 18350
Astrolux E02 CREE XP-L A6 Driver 900lumens 8modes EDC LED Flashlight 18650
overview
both lights have the same head/electronics and the battery tube (expected to be sold separately soon) can be swapped.
i like the look and feel – the knurling is big, but not too aggressive
you can choose out of 3 tints (colortemperatures of the LED):
1A (6500K) ~ cold white
3D (5000K) ~neutreal white (my favorite)
5A (4000K) ~warm white
but let some pictures speak:
secured in cardboard boxes with foam inside:
the included clips can be mount both ways
the E01 is meant to use with a 18350 Lithium Cell / the E02 uses a 18650
size comparison!
Olight S1 and S10R / nitecore EC11 / E01 / E02 / BLF A6
lets have a closer look!
the engraving is quite deep (3D-ish)
orange peel reflector (lens IS installed)
the lens is AR coated
the aluminium e-switch
the tailcap is simple with a steel spring
not soldered, just clipped into a groove
disassembled
threads ae nice cut and lubed on bothe sides
same thickness
into the head:
unsoldered the AWG24 silicon wires
aluminium MCPCB – with a fair ammount of thermal grease
the shelf
the dimple in the middle was removed:
drivers spring side
the driver cavity
the switch button is spring loaded and secured
the driver (switch board)
other side
unfolded (no glue between the boards) – diameter is 20,9mm
user interface:
i will add a video later….
short click switches the light on (always in moon)
short clicks toggle to low-mid-high-moon-low…
long click (>0.5 sec) switches it off
double click from ON or OFF activates “crazy strobe” (two alternating frequencies)
single click toggles “bike strobe” and beacon – back to crazy strobe…
double click goes back to normal
if you lock the light by 1/4 turn of tailcap or battery tube it stores the last mode)
-> that is why i have no parasitic measures; DMM was in mA when light started in high
due to a fever and a heavy cold i was not able to make beamshots – they will be added!
but i took some numb3rs:
all measures have been made with 30Q cells (4,1V)
| Ampere | Lumen | |
| E01 | ||
| moon | 0,001 | 1 |
| “low” | 0,576 | 268 |
| mid | 1,36 | 523 |
| high | 3,85 | 1050 |
| E02 | ||
| moon | 0,001 | 1 |
| “low” | 0,569 | 270 |
| mid | 1,35 | 522 |
| high | 3,89 | 1040 |
| MH27 | 1060 | |
| BLF A6 3D | 1610 | |
| Olight R20 | 790 |
clamped to the spring
connected to the tube using a DMM (the power supply is not very accurate reading current)
result: (Amps in Turbo)
the numbers show lo regulation at all – also no low voltage protection!
usage of protected batteries is strongly recommended!
conclusion:
not a great light in stock form – but good
i like them
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Thanks for the revealing review (despite the illness), it answers all the questions I had!
link to djozz tests
Thanks for the review and breakdown photots.
As some others have commented in the other thread, the jump from moonlight to low mode is pretty steep. My preference for the low mode is around 50-80 lumens.
The no regulation and no voltage protection are another bummer too.
Yeah thanks for the review M4D M4X..
Pity about the modes…
The lack of regulation would be fine… Sorta..
The lack of low voltage protection might be a bonus for the E01..? i.e. Can resort to CR123a at a pinch?
If an XPL HI’s “voltage forward” is lower than 3V, then a CR123a will work fine (maybe only on the “low 570ma” mode though)?
But will a protected 18650 or protected 18350 fit?
very thorough review! thanks!
looks like a promising host
-Clark
green protected Panasonic NCR18650B (longest cells i have) do fit
btw:
i can imagine cyclists will love the behaviour that no mode change happens after short disconnection of the cell
i have to verify by slamming the lights a bit
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
These look like nice little lights for the group buy price, but I would like to see them add a tailcap magnet.
just pull the spring and glue one in
there is space
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Thanks for the review!! The side Clicky doesn’t appear to be water resistant?
USB power meter/tester thread
it is!
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Thanks for the review. I might be able to work with this ui and mode spacing.
It’s a bit wacky like people have said, but since they didnt require you to hold switch to turn on, I’m gonna give this one a try.
Thanks! I suppose we could layout an OSHPark driver to fit, with the holes for the vertical board. Looks like the vertical board is supported well by the side slots in the pill area of the body, so pressure on the switch won’t bend/break the board. Not the easiest to mod, but possible with a custom driver board. They certainly could have used a more standard design to make modding easier…
Can you measure parasitic drain?
as stated in the review…
i tried, but the light came back on high when i connected my 400 mA fused DMM
in Amps config it barley toggles 0.001 – 0.000A
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Ooops, yep. I think the Olight S15 or S1 I measured at 0.001 mA – that was the lowest I’ve seen.
Forgot to ask – looks like nothing is holding down the driver on the spring side? So is it loose or just press fit in place, and counting on the end of the battery tube to hold it down and make the electrical connection for the batt- signal?
correct
the driver is fixed and contacted by the batterytube alone
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Is the led genuine? Looks a little weird in the photo’s.
Thanks for the very nice review!
First I was very curious about this light, but now “low” mode (around 40-80 lumens) and no low voltage protection is a definite no-go for me.
Martin some of the picture won’t appeared, or is just my isp blocked it?
Don’t mistake my kindness for weakness.
I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.
hmm all of the (except the first one) are hosted on photobucket.com…
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
It appeared now when i use apn
Don’t mistake my kindness for weakness.
I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.
The clip is on the head And there is no low battery protection :-/
Don’t mistake my kindness for weakness.
I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.
Thanks M4D M4X, great job!!!
About projection beam, I think it’s very similar to my Zebralight SC62w:
Sorry, still confused about this. Not sure what you mean by "Amps config". You should be able to operate the light, and turn it off from the side switch while having the DMM connected for low amp measuring - this should then give you a true parasitic drain measure in mA. Sometimes the e-switch firmware will delay or pause a few seconds before going into full sleep mode. In my version of e-switch firmware, I delay a full 10 secs before I drop into sleep mode. I've measured Olights, a NiteCore MH20, and a SWM C20C this way, plus a few others. The MH20 measured about 0.027 mA, while the SWM C20C was about 0.009 mA. The Olights were lower at 0.002 and 0.001 mA.
if the light is ON while you loosen the tailcap it memorizes that mode
i was on high (near 4A) when i unscrewed the tailcap to connect my 400mA fused DMM
brzzzzzzz
clear now?
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Forget it – I’ll never understand. I’ll try replacing the driver anyway, just have to figure out how to rig up the vertical switch board.
Sorry if this has been answered already.
Is there pwm on any of the modes?
How resistant is it to switching on in your pocket. Not using lockout.
Is there anyway to get to high quickly?
Do they come with the clips as per the first pics in the review?
Definitely not an A6 driver as described. Seems rather a let down and too pricey even on a gb to be worth buying just to totally strip and rebuild.
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@ Tom:
imagine the light in a living room
turn the dimmer switch to full brightness
unscrew the bulb
reconnect
-> it starts as high as it was before
better?
@Chicken:
i look tomorrow for PWM – but did not notice (but didnt pay attention)
will not switch on from walking , but when you sit on it it might switch on
nope – double clicks go to disco modes
yes
true
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
So what? As long as you can use the switch and turn it off, them measure.
i have to get a new fuse for the DMM first
all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :
ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!
Ohhh! I got a Fluke DMM I was using – didn’t realize the fuse can get blown for exceeding the max amps rating. Pretty sure I exceeded it’s max – the display went blank or dashed, hhmmm…
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