Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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hank
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it seems that the plastic rings are not higher than the brass ring. I think this was brought up before. Can someone confirm that it will not act as protection against a reversed cell?

Noteworthy, if confirmed.
Is there a draft of the instruction text floating around anywhere?

Tom E
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I posted bout this in detail. The inner plastic is definitely lower while the outer plastic is slightly lower than the brass contact ring. Dunno if any other proto holders can tell any better.

If the outer plastic was raised above the contact ring, than the stock SANYO GA cells (no button tops) would not work, but they do work just fine. The GA tops are wider than the brass ring.

I thought all the cells we are recommending do have the wrapper to prevent reverse contact? Is that not really good?

The Miller
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Yes confirm
Manual is in one of the first posts http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/922764#comment-922764

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Thank you for your time, in sharing your observations of this Q8 with us pilotdog68 ! Thumbs Up

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Tom E wrote:

I posted bout this in detail. The inner plastic is definitely lower while the outer plastic is slightly lower than the brass contact ring. Dunno if any other proto holders can tell any better.


If the outer plastic was raised above the contact ring, than the stock SANYO GA cells (no button tops) would not work, but they do work just fine. The GA tops are wider than the brass ring.


I thought all the cells we are recommending do have the wrapper to prevent reverse contact? Is that not really good?

Yes you did Tom… I remember reading the post. It was very detailed and seems good enough as far as I am concerned. Thumbs Up
Everything in life cannot be dumbed down to the least common denominator… there are trade off’s. Smile

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teacher
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pilotdog68 wrote:
Some of you have noticed I’m not around much anymore. However I was in this from the beginning so I’m honored to have been sent a sample.

First impressions are very good. I don’t own a lot of “premium” brand lights, but I have had my hands on a few for review purposes, and this feels and looks just as high quality as any of them. You really are getting superb value for the money in this groupbuy.

The things I like most:

1. The anodization is very consistent all over my sample. Even inside the driver compartment it looks great.

2. The driver bay is finished better than most “budget” lights. We are getting a thick brass battery contact ring, plus retaining screws (which I like better than a retaining ring). I especially like that my “Q8” vias made it into the final driver.

3. Narsil. It may be too much programming for a mainline manufacturer to release, but for an enthusiast’s light it’s perfect. Ramping mode is easy to pick up for a beginner and provides all the function a muggle could ever want, but if you want to spend the time you can go in and change almost everything to however you want it.

Although I have not been directly involved in one before, we all know there have been hiccups with groupbuys in the past. That said, I have been very impressed with Thorfire’s attentiveness and consistency in this long process. I may not log in here much, but I read emails between the team several times per week. I think everyone on the giant list of buyers will be thrilled when they finally have these lights in hand.

I’ll try to pay attention and answer any questions y’all have for me about my sample, though this thread really does move fast.

Finally here is the Q8 with one of the big reasons for my inactivity, Winston.


Nice rundown of your Q8 impressions PD…sounds good. Smile Thank you. Thumbs Up
Winston looks like a ‘keeper’. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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whitecitadel
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The Miller wrote:
Yes confirm Manual is in one of the first posts http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/922764#comment-922764

I also found it useful to read:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54635

For details on driver and modes.

fixed it
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Tom E wrote:
I posted bout this in detail. The inner plastic is definitely lower while the outer plastic is slightly lower than the brass contact ring. Dunno if any other proto holders can tell any better.

If the outer plastic was raised above the contact ring, than the stock SANYO GA cells (no button tops) would not work, but they do work just fine. The GA tops are wider than the brass ring.

I thought all the cells we are recommending do have the wrapper to prevent reverse contact? Is that not really good?

Makes sense to keep it this way if it allows some flat tops to work as is. But perhaps drop any mention of reverse polarity protection, if there are any besides the first post driver design section. While technically it is there, it’s only of any use if you put all cells the wrong way around and they make contact.

I’m not sure I’d trust the wrapper rubbing against the brass ring to keep preventing contact for very long. This is definitely a light where you’ll want to double check cell orientation before screwing it back together. That should be made very clear to buyers.

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/\/\/\/\/\/\/\

Well said fixed it Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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The Miller
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Good point fixed, will add a line in bold in the manual to be cautious with cell orientation.
Yes we want the enclosed manual to be post 3 top part and the basic Narsil operations with the menu options

thijsco19
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PD said, “Some of you have noticed I’m not around much anymore. However I was in this from the beginning so I’m honored to have been sent a sample.”
That goes for me too. (sorry about that)

First and quick impressions.
Awesome and Impressive!

Looks and feels great! I dont have any ‘expensive’ lights to compare but did hold some. So I can say that I dont have to idea that I’m handling a cheap or budget light.
Anodization is flawless, together with the sharp white laser engraved text and the nice looking stainless bezel the outside looks like a real expensive light.
I really like that the battery tube has no text on it, the only text you see is on the top part of the head en at the bottom of the tailcap.
Speaking of battery tube, the knurling and design is just perfect. Sharp enough to have a good grip but not too sharp to hurt or damage your hand.
It has nice cleanly cut square threads with enough engagement. The o-ring could engage a bit heavier, but I’m sure it seals up good enough.

Contact board at the tail looks good. nice big traces. It’s held in place with 4 screws. Also here too are some nice cleanly cut square threads.
The driver board in the head has a nice brass contactring with some black plastic insulating rings around it. I really like it that you can see the Q8 in via’s in the driver board. It is held in place with 2 screws for easy acces.
Driver itself looks good.

The reflector is (/was, once taken out it will get dirty and or damaged, be carefull!!) flawless. It feels really heavy for a reflector! Its machined from a big piece of aluminium. It has a nice cutout for the wire’s and 2 cutouts for the screws that are holding the led board down. The reflector itself is held down on the led board by one screw in the middle.

The led board is a good looking thick piece of copper, it’s secured by 2 screws. It has some nice big looking traces.

I have some pictures, I’ll try to post them tomorrow.

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Nice Thijsco!
No need for apologies man! You said you were busy and yet managed to do major part in feedback and design and CAD files for the GT! While still being engaged in the Q8, so doing a lot, yet not posting here but heck all the other things are a lot as it is!
Thanks!

hank
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Quote:
TK: “And, maybe Thorfire is better about this, but in general… quality tends not to be consistent over time with items manufactured in China. People are always looking for ways to increase the margins by a few cents, so parts change and designs change and after a while the thing barely resembles its original self. This is why the Q8 was created in the first place …”

And Thorfire should be well aware that BLF folks will be watching “over time” and raising BLF’s own version of the red flag if the quality starts to be nibbled down a bit at a time.

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pilotdog68 wrote:
Although I have not been directly involved in one before, we all know there have been hiccups with groupbuys in the past. That said, I have been very impressed with Thorfire’s attentiveness and consistency in this long process.

Yes, past projects have typically had quite a few hiccups. I hope Thorfire will be better than most, and considering how the samples turned out, things look very promising.

pilotdog68 wrote:
3. Narsil. It may be too much programming for a mainline manufacturer to release, but for an enthusiast’s light it’s perfect. Ramping mode is easy to pick up for a beginner and provides all the function a muggle could ever want, but if you want to spend the time you can go in and change almost everything to however you want it.

Everyone I’ve showed Narsil to loves it. I give people a choice of whatever firmware they want, and so far everyone has gone for the ramping UI. I think it’ll be a huge hit.

pilotdog68 wrote:
2. The driver bay is finished better than most “budget” lights. We are getting a thick brass battery contact ring, plus retaining screws (which I like better than a retaining ring). I especially like that my “Q8” vias made it into the final driver.

I rather enjoy the Q8 vias too. It’s a nice touch, in a light full of nice touches. It also makes for a good thread mascot:

Everyone wrote:
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No news for a while?
Let me tell you about the song of my people.
… at great length.

Is it too late to add those final details, as shown, in the PCB mask? It could make the light a real conversation piece! Big Smile

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soooo all the light are in? Woot woot

Idiot proofing something only creates improved idiots.

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No, I think DEL still needs his. We’re just as likely to get scope plots from him as pictures Big Smile

kntx
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Is there any issue with the solder boobs on my cells comparing em with the button top’s ? I mean resistance, throw etc

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I was curious about one thing. I know the mcpcb has 2 screws holding it down to the shelf for heat transfer, but does the bezel and lens also push down on the reflector like on most flashlights?

(Giving better and more even heat transfer between the mcpcb and shelf)

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So with the prototype how’s the heat disapation. Does it get super hot when on full power fast or in min?

"Let your lite shine "

teacher
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kntx wrote:
Is there any issue with the solder boobs on my cells comparing em with the button top’s ? I mean resistance, throw etc
There might be a slight, very slight; difference. Tom E did some testing on this but I can’t find it right now. If I do I will post a link to it. But IIRC, the difference was very slight.

Another thing to consider is all boobs are not created equal. Some like tiny boobs while others prefer large.. some even solder giant boobs on their cells. I think this boils down to personal preference or either that is just how theirs turned out.

Either way…. I’m sure your boobs will be more than adequate.

I’ll try to find a link to Tom’s post on batteries & post the link. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Hilarious! Teacher, there is no way you typed that without laughing.

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cabfrank wrote:
Hilarious! Teacher, there is no way you typed that without laughing.
Wink … Thanks… Smile .. I saw the opening & couldn’t pass it up. Big Smile
To be honest…. I’m still laughing. Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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kntx wrote:
Is there any issue with the solder boobs on my cells comparing em with the button top’s ? I mean resistance, throw etc
Well kntx, it appears in what I posted above…. I remembered wrong. HERE is a link to one of Tom E’s battery tests.

It appears the boobs out did the buttons. Thumbs Up .. Imagine that…… Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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heheh TK, no I dont think those silk additions are possible, would be funny though Wink

EDIT: List updated

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teacher wrote:
It appears the boobs out did the buttons.


Of course, silly. Boobs always win.




raccoon city
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ToyKeeper wrote:
teacher wrote:

It appears the boobs out did the buttons.

Of course, silly. Boobs always win.


boobs_always_win

teacher
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ToyKeeper wrote:
teacher wrote:
It appears the boobs out did the buttons.


Of course, silly. Boobs always win.



I rest my case……. Thumbs UpWink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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<< Am I seeing things or is TK wearing glasses?

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hank
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Button tops are typically spot welded (I believe), and the metal - not sure how good the conductivity, so totally up to the mysterious 3rd party that installs the button tops. Solder, though supposed not great conductivity, is solid to the battery top. I would think/guess solder boobs will always do better, and my testing seems to prove that out compared to the button tops I have, and tested.

For durability, reliability, button tops win out every time - solder is soft, subject to going flat over time (not drooping), plus the metal could be rubbing off on the brass contact ring over time - bad if it fragments, but not sure bout that. I think I've seen this occurring though - probably best if the brass ring is polished smooth.

To fix this, could solder brass buttons to the top of the batteries. I've done this several times as well. I haven't had one fail yet, but never used them in an SRK style light (contact ring). I'd be concerned about the quality of the solder bond, if the brass button is at risk of falling off over time. Probably dependent on how well the solder job is done - clean surfaced, good amt of flux, etc. If you do use brass buttons, I'd say the contact surface should be sanded down on the edges so there's smooth contact - most of these buttons come with sharp edges. Brass will hold up better than solder for sure, but brass is relatively soft compared to steel for example, but it would be brass to brass contact so maybe that's good.

I dunno if all these concerns are warranted - I got limited long term experience with these usages.

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