Q8, PMS SEND TO THOSE WITH ISSUES BLF soda can light

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giorgoskok
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Texas_Ace wrote:
I want to get one for all of my cars, another to leave stock, a few to mod in various ways (thinking an xhp35 hi thrower version and an xhp50.2 high CRI flooder to start out with). Then a few more for gifts.

Sadly not sure I will be able to afford all of that before the GB actually happens.

Well , i thought something similar , but i’ll have to get max 2 or 3 for start Silly

djozz
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The Miller wrote:
To be clear
That lamination, what is that?
The top cover with insulation properties or are the copper traces part of it?

In my case the copper traces are part of the delamination, which implies that the traces are less well cooled, which really could be an issue at 20A.
kalkat
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Hi, I’m interested in 1 BLF Q8, is it still possible to be added to the list?
Thanks in advance.

The Miller
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Yes welcome to BLF!

sparkyDK
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cabfrank wrote:
Implants, if you prefer…

It must be onplants, as the addition go on the top of things and not inside.

kalkat
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The Miller wrote:
Yes welcome to BLF!

Thanks Smile
dekozn
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djozz wrote:
The Miller wrote:
To be clear
That lamination, what is that?
The top cover with insulation properties or are the copper traces part of it?

In my case the copper traces are part of the delamination, which implies that the traces are less well cooled, which really could be an issue at 20A.

So we’re going to need new mpcb’s? Now that we got a need for 1000+ pieces we might get a better price from other companies. If they offered $8 for 50 pieces how much would it be for 1000+?

Idiot proofing something only creates improved idiots.

The Miller
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We asked Thorfire to check with the maker of the MCPCBs and showed the pics.
When we hear back we post here ASAP

DEL
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The Miller wrote:
To be clear That lamination, what is that? The top cover with insulation properties or are the copper traces part of it?

On mine the loose layer at the edge seems to be only the solder mask (but there is no electrical copper in that area). The interior ‘bubble’ closer to the black wire may include copper, but I am not sure.

AFAIK these boards are fabricated by laminating the various layers together. Between each set of layers there is a layer of adhesive and it seems this adhesive failed.

Random google:

hank
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Quote:
Edit: Parasitic drain is only 0.14 mA, even with the fairly bright side indicator on.

THANK YOU DEL, I was wondering about that.

I generally lock out lights to get rid of the blue switch glow when I’m not carrying them around.
I assume that’s impossible to do with this light?

BrianK
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I don’t know if this is what you mean, but in the Narsil reference manual, in the advanced configuration section at the end of the manual, one has the option of disabling the button LED.

The manual, written by Tom I believe, is found here.

giorgoskok
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BrianK wrote:
I don’t know if this is what you mean, but in the Narsil reference manual, in the advanced configuration one has the option of disabling the button LED.

I was just typing this , it’s the “Locator Led” option

BrianK
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Hank, I don’t have a huge amount of experience with lights, but the Narsil programming is pretty fantastic. It gives the user the most control of any light that I’ve ever seen. Most programs for lights give far less control or no control at all.

I think you’ll be happy with what you can do with the UI.

Tom E
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hank wrote:
Quote:
Edit: Parasitic drain is only 0.14 mA, even with the fairly bright side indicator on.
THANK YOU DEL, I was wondering about that. I generally lock out lights to get rid of the blue switch glow when I'm not carrying them around. I assume that's impossible to do with this light?

Couple ways (green glow for the Q8 smile) -

  • can do a lockout, and when it's locked out, the Ind. is OFF - I thought that made the most sense for most common usage (4X clicks in ramping to lockout, other way in mode sets)
  • can also use a quick shortcut to disable the Ind. LED when the light is OFF, in both ramping and mode set operation (ramping: press&hold til the light goes on in moon, quickly release)
  • can also disable it completely in the configuration settings

I knew this would be a wanted feature so put in a lot of support for it.

 

teacher
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hank wrote:
Quote:
Edit: Parasitic drain is only 0.14 mA, even with the fairly bright side indicator on.
THANK YOU DEL, I was wondering about that.

I generally lock out lights to get rid of the blue switch glow when I’m not carrying them around.
I assume that’s impossible to do with this light?

Tom E posted the below back in #7351. His numbers are a bit different from what DEL found, but there is certainly little danger of parasitic drain rendering the light useless in time of need…. even if the user is just halfway paying attention to their light every few years. Big Smile .. Wink
Tom E wrote:

I just confirmed the parasitic drain on the round #3 Q8:



  • with switch LED on: 135 µA

  • with switch LED off: 22 µA


It really was a sanity check to confirm it still is the same as the earlier round 2 prototypes, and it does match exactly.


In switch Lock-Out mode, the switch LED is off. There’s also a quick trick method to turn off the switch LED when the light is OFF:



  • from OFF, press&hold til moon mode comes on (or hold longer)

  • then quickly release the switch, and quickly click to turn the light OFF

  • the switch LED should be off now even with the main LED off


To put it in perspective:



  • 22 µA takes 5 years to drain 1,000 mAh, so with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 60 years, in theory of course

  • 135 µA with the switch LED on takes 10 months to drain 1,000 mAh, with 4 3,000 mAh cells, it could last over 10 years

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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BrianK
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Only 10-60 years? Evil Big Smile Maybe change a resister to get that number up a bit? (sorry, I couldn’t resist[er])

tocirahl
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135 µA = 0.135 mA yes? Sounds like DEL and Tom got pretty much the same numbers.

legan710
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tocirahl, that’s my understanding as well

teacher
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tocirahl wrote:
135 µA = 0.135 mA yes? Sounds like DEL and Tom got pretty much the same numbers.
Yep, just a very slight bit of difference.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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sparkyDK
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I just spent 350 dollars online, and not a dime of those was for the Q8 Wink will have to resort to throwing wads of cash at my computer screen to get things going.

DEL
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Those drain numbers do vary with cell voltage. My number was taken with a fairly fresh cell, the worst case.

For electric/electronic stuff these metric prefixes are commonly used:

  • x1000000 – mega or M
  • x1000 – kilo or k
  • /1000 – milli or m
  • /1000000 – micro or µ
  • /1000000000 – nano or n
  • /1000000000000 – pico or p

So 0.14 mA would correctly be the same as 140 µA. mA is just easier to type Smile .

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Yesterday I got my LG HG2 battery pack dedicated for the Q8 Crown

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dekozn wrote:
WOW, now that’s a great rundown of the light Thumbs Up Thanks a lot
Have the other proto3 lights the same issues as the one DEL received?

Just checked mine again.
It has also the delamination problem. Doesn’t look as bad as the others but it is a problem.

To me it looks like the compleet ‘pcb’ part is coming off of the copper.

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I’m hoping I’m not to late. Please add me to the list .. thank you!!

teacher
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I am so glad you guys are on top of things and have caught/noticed/seen this delamination issue so that it can be addressed & corrected before production.

Depending on how bad & widespread it is…. this was a potential Q8 disaster in the making. Facepalm

Hat’s off to you all for being on top of things. Thumbs Up
.
Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

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The Miller
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Yes will update list later Wink

Hmm Thijsco too?
Hopefully this is a prototype mcpcb …

DavidEF
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The Miller wrote:
Yes will update list later Wink

Hmm Thijsco too?
Hopefully this is a prototype mcpcb …


Is there such a thing as one off / hand made / hand etched MCPCB’s?

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
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dekozn
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I guess that’s why multiple proto’s where asked for… If it’s a proto board then the issue could be resolved easy. If not it might be a good idea that the team looks for a mpcb producer? Although I don’t think I ever heard of thorfire lights having this issue or they never designed a light pulling 20A in stock form.

Idiot proofing something only creates improved idiots.

DavidEF
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dekozn wrote:
I guess that’s why multiple proto’s where asked for… If it’s a proto board then the issue could be resolved easy. If not it might be a good idea that the team looks for a mpcb producer? Although I don’t think I ever heard of thorfire lights having this issue or they never designed a light pulling 20A in stock form.

Has any manufacturer EVER made a flashlight that pulls 20A in stock form?

The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy

dekozn
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Touché as the french say: you have a point there.

Idiot proofing something only creates improved idiots.

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