And a tail cover with lanyard holes TF might make double on these if they play it right.
If we are looking for an aftermarket tail cover, I’d like to see one with enough room inside for a charging board. I’m fine with taking the tail cover off to plug in a USB cable. Some minor mods to the tail PCB and a TP4056 board and we would be well on our way to onboard charging.
RapidLux wrote:
Better make a tail cover that supports magnetic charging instead, that would make charging much easier since there will be no need to unscrew the cover to plug it in.
You will need a front cover instead of the head to charge the battery. So an option would be a talcap with lanyard hole and a removable front cap with charging-Circuit.
Otherwise you wont get contact to the battery+ side.
You will need a front cover instead of the head to charge the battery. So an option would be a talcap with lanyard hole and a removable front cap with charging-Circuit.
Otherwise you wont get contact to the battery+ side.
There is no denying that it would be simpler to do on the front side, but there is quite a lot of room right down the middle of the tube for a spring loaded connection to the positive end. Enough room that I have printed my Joechina cheat sheet larger than he intended (75mm IIRC) and rolled it up to store in that space.
Having said that, it is an interesting thought that you could have a spare battery tube with tail PCB and cap, loaded with batteries and on charge. When it is time to load a fully charged set of cells, you unscrew the head and this ‘charge cap’ then simply swap them.
Has anyone found a heat conducting material that also lubricates for the threads between the head and cylinder? It could get a bit more heat out of the hot part.
I thought of heat sink transfer goo. But nothing that says it won’t dry out or turn liquid. Drying out could be a bad thing. Liquid metal bad on the not drying out side.
I think most of those are designed to dry out. They’re meant to be very liquid when you apply them so they spread everywhere evenly. Then they dry for slightly increased performance. At least that’s what I remember reading a long time ago, back when CPU cooling was more critical.
Great News! ! BLF Q8 flashlight will be available on amazon USA soon. If you would like to order more, we have limited quantity promo codes(49% off)and the price would be the same as Group Buy: $40.
And If it is convenient for you, could you please spare a few minutes and help to share an honest review of BLF Q8 light on amazon? Here is the product link. BLF Q8: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773Q46D3
If any question, please feel free to contact.
Best Regards
ThorFire
NICE!
Thanks for the reminder. Some of the marketing seems a bit less than accurate, so I put up a comment to give a bit more info about it. Kind of disorganized, but hopefully it’ll help.
^ They are not dead-centered, and this amount of error was in the prototypes too and appeared to be too difficult for Thorfire to improve. Since it did not seem to affect the beam at all as far as we could see, we gave this imperfection a go.
So officially, according to the Q8 team, it is ok. But from an OCD point of view it is annoying of course.
They look "ok" to me, slightly off. What I'd do would be pop out the bezel/lens/o-ring, pop out the driver, loosen up the 3 screws (assuming you got a rev 2), and re-tighten. I usually go with tightening the center one first, then the outer ones. Might help a little with the LED centering. At least by doing this, you can see it happening, so might help how to re-tighten and get the best centering.
I'd only be concerned if the LED centering rings don't appear to be fitting in the reflector holes properly - that's usually easily fixed by loosening and re-tightening.
For what you got, sometimes the LED's aren't perfectly centered from soldering, and if so, that can be corrected, but requires further dismantling - taking out the MCPCB, cleaning it up, and using a torch applying the heat underneath carefully, and reset the LED's positioning by melting the solder and either letting them seat on their own, or give them a little nudge.
Generally I've found rev 2's better centered than rev 1's.
No FUD, and no, I didn’t recall seeing Tom’s baked flashlight, which now that you mention it, I agree proves it’s anodizing.
I’m not paying that close attention given the volume of comments. Glad someone is.
I wondered because I often can’t tell the difference between type 2 anodizing and paint, on flashlights generally; both coatings seem fairly easily chipped.
Better make a tail cover that supports magnetic charging instead, that would make charging much easier since there will be no need to unscrew the cover to plug it in.
My first thought was that this is a genius idea. Around the house and even in the car it would be a quick way to charge it up and would definitely be quicker and cause less wear. My second thought was that battery banks have USB, but not inductive ports. Which means that you would need to carry a wireless charger as well if you were taking this camping for instance. My third thought is that the obvious answer to this is a product that I have not seen – a USB battery pack with a built in inductive charge pad.
[edit]annnnd like most of my ‘brilliant’ ideas someone else has already had it, done it, and posted a video on how to do it. Still going to work on it.[/edit]
It seems much faster and easier to just carry a spare set of cells. Less bulk to carry, and you can’t use the light while charging the cells in the field. Are there any advantages at all?
The idea is from the MF02 thread, will the Neodymium Magnets be ok to use for contact in the Q8 using non-button batteries instead of soldering the blob?
The idea is from the MF02 thread, will the Neodymium Magnets be ok to use for contact in the Q8 using non-button batteries instead of soldering the blob?
No, you can’t use magnets on this type of light.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Thanks for clearing up my memory. I’ll blob them then. Not worth the hassle of returning
You will need a front cover instead of the head to charge the battery. So an option would be a talcap with lanyard hole and a removable front cap with charging-Circuit.
Otherwise you wont get contact to the battery+ side.
There is no denying that it would be simpler to do on the front side, but there is quite a lot of room right down the middle of the tube for a spring loaded connection to the positive end. Enough room that I have printed my Joechina cheat sheet larger than he intended (75mm IIRC) and rolled it up to store in that space.
Having said that, it is an interesting thought that you could have a spare battery tube with tail PCB and cap, loaded with batteries and on charge. When it is time to load a fully charged set of cells, you unscrew the head and this ‘charge cap’ then simply swap them.
Lazy-R-us
I think most of those are designed to dry out. They’re meant to be very liquid when you apply them so they spread everywhere evenly. Then they dry for slightly increased performance. At least that’s what I remember reading a long time ago, back when CPU cooling was more critical.
Thanks for the reminder. Some of the marketing seems a bit less than accurate, so I put up a comment to give a bit more info about it. Kind of disorganized, but hopefully it’ll help.
Marked TK’s comment at Amazon as helpful. Definitely.
(Do we even know the light is anodized, rather than painted?)!!!!
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 7th Annual contest entry My 6th Annual contest entry My 5th Annual contest entry My 4th Annual contest entry
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
Seen this one? https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Multiple-Operation-Procedure-Flashli...
$128.99 and FREE shipping!
It claims to be in stock, just one. But it may arrive after Christmas.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Of course it’s anodized. We’ve all seen the one Tom baked, right? It’s his avatar pic. It has to be anodized to do that.
Is someone spreading FUD about the Q8 being painted?
Here’s my Q8 optic:
You can see that the LEDs are not centred perfectly. Is it OK or is it not?
Only you can answer that. Is the beam acceptable when you use the light?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
^ They are not dead-centered, and this amount of error was in the prototypes too and appeared to be too difficult for Thorfire to improve. Since it did not seem to affect the beam at all as far as we could see, we gave this imperfection a go.
So officially, according to the Q8 team, it is ok. But from an OCD point of view it is annoying of course.
link to djozz tests
In none of the 3 Q8 I’ve currently here the LEDs are better centered, and I don’t care at all. No impact on the beam.
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
They look "ok" to me, slightly off. What I'd do would be pop out the bezel/lens/o-ring, pop out the driver, loosen up the 3 screws (assuming you got a rev 2), and re-tighten. I usually go with tightening the center one first, then the outer ones. Might help a little with the LED centering. At least by doing this, you can see it happening, so might help how to re-tighten and get the best centering.
I'd only be concerned if the LED centering rings don't appear to be fitting in the reflector holes properly - that's usually easily fixed by loosening and re-tightening.
For what you got, sometimes the LED's aren't perfectly centered from soldering, and if so, that can be corrected, but requires further dismantling - taking out the MCPCB, cleaning it up, and using a torch applying the heat underneath carefully, and reset the LED's positioning by melting the solder and either letting them seat on their own, or give them a little nudge.
Generally I've found rev 2's better centered than rev 1's.
No FUD, and no, I didn’t recall seeing Tom’s baked flashlight, which now that you mention it, I agree proves it’s anodizing.
I’m not paying that close attention given the volume of comments. Glad someone is.
I wondered because I often can’t tell the difference between type 2 anodizing and paint, on flashlights generally; both coatings seem fairly easily chipped.
First Q8 proto, pre logo, etc:
FUD? What is FUD (if it safe to say)?
Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!
How to Post Images on BLF // Many knives for sale (USA only)
How to move a thread
Fear. Unbelief. Doubt.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
O K. Thanks.
Not a flashlight guru, but like them just the same.
Misspellers of the world UNTIE!!!
Thanks for the answers.
Actually, I believe that’s, Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt.
The Q8 isn’t intended to be a thrower, so don’t worry about it.
OOPS! You’re right. I didn’t look it up. I was trying to go from memory.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Actually I’d like it to be more throwy….somewhat akin’ to DT35. It won’t work this way, but a set of dedomed SST-40s will bring it closer.
Spreading FUD about the meaning of FUD.
It seems much faster and easier to just carry a spare set of cells. Less bulk to carry, and you can’t use the light while charging the cells in the field. Are there any advantages at all?
There’s the coolness factor, that means more to some than others. Spare cells in a plastic box is so mundane.
s
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 7th Annual contest entry My 6th Annual contest entry My 5th Annual contest entry My 4th Annual contest entry
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
The idea is from the MF02 thread, will the Neodymium Magnets be ok to use for contact in the Q8 using non-button batteries instead of soldering the blob?
No, you can’t use magnets on this type of light.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Pages