ToyKeeper, I have seen mentions that in Narsil 1.2 (ROT66) there is also a memory error. Narsil is especially good because in addition to the ramp there is a mode with fixed brightness steps, for some it is very very important.
Yes, the first batch of ROT66 lights used NarsilM 1.2. Later batches switched to Anduril — to resolve the memory error, to get more features, and because Fireflies thought Narsil was too complicated. Both offer a choice of smooth ramp or fixed brightness steps, though the method differs.
Narsil:
Steps are chosen from 12 preset mode groups (or sometimes 8 groups, depending on the model of light).
Click repeatedly to go brighter.
Level locks in after 1.2s, so after that, a click turns the light off.
Hold to step down and reset the lock-in timer.
Clicking several times from off is used to choose a brightness level; I forget how to access blinky modes.
Can either start at the lowest level or the last-used level, but not both (use config mode to choose which).
To change UI style (smooth or steps), enter config mode (method depends on which UI style is active) then change the ramp toggle setting.
Anduril:
Steps are calculated from the user’s personal floor level, ceiling level, and number of steps. Can be anything. Some people like 3 steps, some like 20.
Click for on/off, hold to change brightness. (same UI as smooth ramp)
To change UI style (smooth or steps), click 3 times while the light is on.
I have a bunch of NarsilM forks to merge together, and I think I also have a patch to fix the memory bug, but it’s going to take a while and requires a lot of code reorganization and testing, so I’ve been procrastinating. Since Narsil isn’t really maintained any more, the main point of the merges is to simplify the process of GPL compliance, keeping all the forks in one place. But it’s not likely to get any more significant updates beyond some branch cleanup. Development has pretty much moved to FSM, the toolkit on which Anduril is based.
ToyKeeper, Yes, I somehow missed that in the new Anduril there are fixed brightness steps. I have no steps on the Emisar D4 with the old version Anduril.
In any case, on my Q8 Narsil 1.0 and I will be interested in doing the tests. If I can get a positive result, it may be useful to someone else.
Unless you flashed the firmware, the Emisar D4 doesn’t have Anduril. The Emisar D4, D1, and D1S ship with RampingIOS V2, which is a simplified fork of an old version of Narsil. It only does smooth ramping.
The Emisar D4S ships with RampingIOS V3, which is a simplified fork of Anduril. It adds some things, like Anduril’s fixed brightness steps, but it still lacks a lot of Anduril’s other features.
The only stock lights with Anduril so far are from Fireflies. However, there should also be some soon from Sofirn and Lumintop. And maybe Emisar, if I can ever get Hank to use it.
ToyKeeper, I have seen mentions that in Narsil 1.2 (ROT66) there is also a memory error. Narsil is especially good because in addition to the ramp there is a mode with fixed brightness steps, for some it is very very important.
Anduril has that too. You can even configure the number of steps.
I looked it up right after posting. The problem is I always have to look it up, because I forget. Same with accessing and using the config mode. I generally need to have the manual in front of me.
To me it's a natural progression dbl click to turbo, dbl click to strobe. From there it's standard mode (non-ramping) operation - this causes confusion for those not used to regular mode usage. I've used the Werner style mode operations for couple years before ramping, so again, all seemed to be logical.
all seemed to be logical.
Guess it’s only intuitive to me…
I think it just depends on the individual person’s preferences. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in life, it’s, um, well, I guess it’s that I haven’t really learned much at all. But if there are two things, the other one is that different people are really, amazingly, profoundly different. At least, what’s in their heads anyway.
all seemed to be logical.
Guess it’s only intuitive to me…
I think it just depends on the individual person’s preferences. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in life, it’s, um, well, I guess it’s that I haven’t really learned much at all. But if there are two things, the other one is that different people are really, amazingly, profoundly different. At least, what’s in their heads anyway.
Well, it may not be intuitive. But who wants intuitive access to strobe anyway? Not this guy! It’s good enough that strobe is easy to get to. It doesn’t have to be intuitive to use. That’s what manuals are for. I want all the intuitive things to be things I’m going to use regularly.
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
all seemed to be logical.
Guess it’s only intuitive to me…
I think it just depends on the individual person’s preferences. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in life, it’s, um, well, I guess it’s that I haven’t really learned much at all. But if there are two things, the other one is that different people are really, amazingly, profoundly different. At least, what’s in their heads anyway.
Well, it may not be intuitive. But who wants intuitive access to strobe anyway? Not this guy! It’s good enough that strobe is easy to get to. It doesn’t have to be intuitive to use. That’s what manuals are for. I want all the intuitive things to be things I’m going to use regularly.
Idk if youre interested, but I have a strobe free build of Anduril on my Q8. Ill flash it for the cost of postage if you want.
But if there are two things, the other one is that different people are really, amazingly, profoundly different. At least, what’s in their heads anyway.
That is ever so true. My wife and I have minds are diametrically opposed when it comes to some everyday things, but completely in sync in other areas.
I'm told here by the mech engineers it's gold anodizing - believe vendor told me it's anodizing (hint: they are in Houston). Some of the parts are 6061, some are 7075, so the tint varies from part to part.
Wonder though if they can do with a better quality. I got a similar gold SRK clone, but I always thought it was cheaper anodizing from the Q8 - like $25 for 12 LED's (fakes of course). It looks like Sofirn is not making these, but reselling from a cheaper source. This is mine (my pic):
I like my gold SRK. It’s a nice-looking light, even though a lot of its design is superfluous. At some point, I should upgrade it again; the last mod didn’t work out quite how I hoped.
It has a nice Q8 prototype driver inside, but I tried to do some tint mixing and it didn’t mix well. So it needs new emitters. I also have a black SRK of the same old vintage, in need of new springs and a new driver. Too many projects…
So I just got a Q8 and am considering putting Anduril in it. I have heard it requires no soldering, just two screws to remove the driver. There are a few versions in the toybox, should I just use the latest? Also figuring I don’t need to reset any fuses?
—
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
great, thanks! 1 question, does the mode where the button LED “flickers” take more power because the Attiny 85 is on, or is this some sort of sleep mode still?
—
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
great, thanks! 1 question, does the mode where the button LED “flickers” take more power because the Attiny 85 is on, or is this some sort of sleep mode still?
The beacon or heartbeat mode still uses less power, because it’s in a sleep mode. It just wakes periodically to change the LED state, then goes back to sleep. Internally, it has an event system which has events like “button press” or “clock tick” or “low voltage”. The blinking button mode is handled with a “sleep tick” event… the watchdog timer wakes up the controller, it generates an event, the event falls through the system, and then it goes back to sleep. It takes slightly more power than being completely asleep, but not much. It should still be significantly less than just leaving the button LED in high mode all the time.
I will read through more threads here but figured maybe if I just posted someone could point me in the right direction. I originally purchased 3 of these BLF Q8s from here. They were great for the first couple of months then the button switch light has now died on two of them. Is there any information as to what would need to be replaced or changed to get them working again? Thanks so much in advance. (I will get back to reading through these threads)
Neil
//factory reset did not fix my issue.. looks like she is dead jim… on to ordering a new one. oh well gives me a reason to break it open and flash newer firmware as well.
Neil
Are you sure the factory reset worked, meaning it did actually do the reset? Think the earlier v1.0 firmware didn't support it, can't recall though. It's odd because I got a ton of lights with LED switches and haven't seen one failure, including some of my regular used modded EDC's I've used for 2-3+ years. Think I had couple Q8 users who said it failed and the reset fixed it.
Of course it's possible you had Q8's from a batch with suspect parts or quality issues. If you are comfortable with it, I'd check the switch PCB first before ordering a replacement.
Yes, the first batch of ROT66 lights used NarsilM 1.2. Later batches switched to Anduril — to resolve the memory error, to get more features, and because Fireflies thought Narsil was too complicated. Both offer a choice of smooth ramp or fixed brightness steps, though the method differs.
Narsil:
Anduril:
I have a bunch of NarsilM forks to merge together, and I think I also have a patch to fix the memory bug, but it’s going to take a while and requires a lot of code reorganization and testing, so I’ve been procrastinating. Since Narsil isn’t really maintained any more, the main point of the merges is to simplify the process of GPL compliance, keeping all the forks in one place. But it’s not likely to get any more significant updates beyond some branch cleanup. Development has pretty much moved to FSM, the toolkit on which Anduril is based.
ToyKeeper, Yes, I somehow missed that in the new Anduril there are fixed brightness steps. I have no steps on the Emisar D4 with the old version Anduril.
In any case, on my Q8 Narsil 1.0 and I will be interested in doing the tests. If I can get a positive result, it may be useful to someone else.
Sorry for my poor english.
Unless you flashed the firmware, the Emisar D4 doesn’t have Anduril. The Emisar D4, D1, and D1S ship with RampingIOS V2, which is a simplified fork of an old version of Narsil. It only does smooth ramping.
The Emisar D4S ships with RampingIOS V3, which is a simplified fork of Anduril. It adds some things, like Anduril’s fixed brightness steps, but it still lacks a lot of Anduril’s other features.
The only stock lights with Anduril so far are from Fireflies. However, there should also be some soon from Sofirn and Lumintop. And maybe Emisar, if I can ever get Hank to use it.
ToyKeeper, Oh, how much I did not know. Thanks for the elucidation.
Sorry for my poor english.
Anduril has that too. You can even configure the number of steps.
In Ramping:
Double klick to Turbo, then double klick again
In Modes:
Hold
And the FW3A with Andúril will be released any moment.
(or in a few months)
I looked it up right after posting. The problem is I always have to look it up, because I forget. Same with accessing and using the config mode. I generally need to have the manual in front of me.
To me it's a natural progression dbl click to turbo, dbl click to strobe. From there it's standard mode (non-ramping) operation - this causes confusion for those not used to regular mode usage. I've used the Werner style mode operations for couple years before ramping, so again, all seemed to be logical.
Guess it's only intuitive to me...
I think it just depends on the individual person’s preferences. If there’s one thing I’ve learned in life, it’s, um, well, I guess it’s that I haven’t really learned much at all. But if there are two things, the other one is that different people are really, amazingly, profoundly different. At least, what’s in their heads anyway.
Well, it may not be intuitive. But who wants intuitive access to strobe anyway? Not this guy! It’s good enough that strobe is easy to get to. It doesn’t have to be intuitive to use. That’s what manuals are for. I want all the intuitive things to be things I’m going to use regularly.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
Idk if youre interested, but I have a strobe free build of Anduril on my Q8. Ill flash it for the cost of postage if you want.
That is ever so true. My wife and I have minds are diametrically opposed when it comes to some everyday things, but completely in sync in other areas.
BLF Member Map, add yourself
My 7th Annual contest entry My 6th Annual contest entry My 5th Annual contest entry My 4th Annual contest entry
My DBSAR inspired SRK lantern hand made mod
Can we get a Q8 in gold? like this:
Isn’t that a gold chrome plating?
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I'm told here by the mech engineers it's gold anodizing - believe vendor told me it's anodizing (hint: they are in Houston). Some of the parts are 6061, some are 7075, so the tint varies from part to part.
Ohh - another view/hint:
Dang, may have to delete these pics real soon...
Sofirn has this gold on the SF34.
.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Wonder though if they can do with a better quality. I got a similar gold SRK clone, but I always thought it was cheaper anodizing from the Q8 - like $25 for 12 LED's (fakes of course). It looks like Sofirn is not making these, but reselling from a cheaper source. This is mine (my pic):
And an old group shot:
I like my gold SRK. It’s a nice-looking light, even though a lot of its design is superfluous. At some point, I should upgrade it again; the last mod didn’t work out quite how I hoped.
It has a nice Q8 prototype driver inside, but I tried to do some tint mixing and it didn’t mix well. So it needs new emitters. I also have a black SRK of the same old vintage, in need of new springs and a new driver. Too many projects…
It seems near London they can do it
http://www.metroplating.co.uk/sulphuric-acid-anodising.php
(under select page you see the difference ano techniques)
Astrolux A01 had a nice orange on the light. Someone in China can do it.
http://www.banggood.com/Astrolux-A01-Nichia-219B-102LM-AAA-Mini-Waterproof-Keychain-EDC-LED-Flashlight-p-1026854.html
So I just got a Q8 and am considering putting Anduril in it. I have heard it requires no soldering, just two screws to remove the driver. There are a few versions in the toybox, should I just use the latest? Also figuring I don’t need to reset any fuses?
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
Yes. If you don’t have any specific things you want to change about the firmware, just grab the latest and flash it without modifying the fuse values.
Wow, that was super easy, so much more so than my D4.
Is there still a way to disable (turn off) the switch light? If not, no big deal, but just curious.
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
Yes. Try 7 clicks from off to rotate through button LED modes.
Or, in lockout, use 3 clicks.
great, thanks! 1 question, does the mode where the button LED “flickers” take more power because the Attiny 85 is on, or is this some sort of sleep mode still?
PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.
The beacon or heartbeat mode still uses less power, because it’s in a sleep mode. It just wakes periodically to change the LED state, then goes back to sleep. Internally, it has an event system which has events like “button press” or “clock tick” or “low voltage”. The blinking button mode is handled with a “sleep tick” event… the watchdog timer wakes up the controller, it generates an event, the event falls through the system, and then it goes back to sleep. It takes slightly more power than being completely asleep, but not much. It should still be significantly less than just leaving the button LED in high mode all the time.
I will read through more threads here but figured maybe if I just posted someone could point me in the right direction. I originally purchased 3 of these BLF Q8s from here. They were great for the first couple of months then the button switch light has now died on two of them. Is there any information as to what would need to be replaced or changed to get them working again? Thanks so much in advance. (I will get back to reading through these threads)
Neil
Is it possible the switch LED's just got accidentally disabled? Might want to do a factory reset on them...
Here's how to do it: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1228105#comment-1228105
You can get a replacement switch from the sofirn store on aliexpress – here is the link – click on the picture of the switch – they are $3.01
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/BLF-Q8-Accessories-lighted-switch-assembly-Copper-DTP-MCPCB-Reflector-for-Q8/2933049_32879434650.html?spm=a2g1y.12024536.productList_2692165.subject_15
You guys rock! I’ll check on lunch break!
//factory reset did not fix my issue.. looks like she is dead jim…
on to ordering a new one. oh well gives me a reason to break it open and flash newer firmware as well.
Neil
Are you sure the factory reset worked, meaning it did actually do the reset? Think the earlier v1.0 firmware didn't support it, can't recall though. It's odd because I got a ton of lights with LED switches and haven't seen one failure, including some of my regular used modded EDC's I've used for 2-3+ years. Think I had couple Q8 users who said it failed and the reset fixed it.
Of course it's possible you had Q8's from a batch with suspect parts or quality issues. If you are comfortable with it, I'd check the switch PCB first before ordering a replacement.
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