My COMETA is a POS - does not connect with tailcap spring - burned my finger [Hobby Ending - Enough is Enough]

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Brett H
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The Miller wrote:
Will34, you’re breaking my heart there mate Wink
Maybe we should step back and let those slow turning wheels that are set in motion bring a solution for this Cometa disaster
I have put it away and will gently ask Cyberscudo when Banggood is going to send us first buyers a set of washers and paid for wires. Not now but in a couple of days so they can sort it out.
Really important is the title change so all new to this see the dangers and have it in the OP.

And yes I am full of questions, let me share this, I have a friend who was highly interested in the Cometa, working for a company selling supplies to the firefighters here. I asked if Cyber could send me a review sample and that I would send it back or to whoever following.
This was when they were nowhere near the 500 mark and this could mean several hundreds of Cometa s sold so I figured a valid request.
I got the reaction a sample was going to be send to a BLFer for review and that was it.
I never saw the review and I really missed it and still do not get why nobody seen the obvious design flaw in a anodised disc that could just as easy been made of plastic for probably less money. Three times taking is out is enough to spot the problem.

I received a response from BG regarding these washers. I first contacted Neal and today I received the following email from BG…

Dear customer,

Thanks for your email.

We have arranged to resend you a CPFItalia COMETA Insulating Sheet for item 1048342.

But this item is out of stock at the moment, could you please wait for few days?

Sorry for the inconvenience and best regards,

Aurogon

JakeDjanitor
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SIGShooter wrote:
Things should definitely work right out of the box but sometimes don’t and this issue isn’t confined to flashlights. My main hobby is firearms and it used to be common to have to tweak handguns in order to make them work right. For example the old Colt 1911’s were unreliable without first porting and throating them. And let’s not forget the original Glock 22’s where the barrel had less support than needed causing heads to blow especially with reloads (and hot factory ammo).

I guess what I’m saying is that unfortunately things don’t always work right out of the box and I suspect that this will always be the case due to poor QA, design, etc. So it falls upon the end-user to be careful and knowledgeable about things that can and do go wrong.

And as we’ve seen price is not necessarily correlated with quality Sad

I completely understand you. But for my edc 1911 I sent it back twice to ruger. They replaced with one that had no issues.
My newest carry p938 rosewood would be sent back if it didn’t run so beautifully <3
It’s one thing to tinker, I enjoy it on my guns, but my carry guns are factory stock. Maybe slight dehorn or smoothing.

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JakeDjanitor wrote:
SIGShooter wrote:
Things should definitely work right out of the box but sometimes don’t and this issue isn’t confined to flashlights. My main hobby is firearms and it used to be common to have to tweak handguns in order to make them work right. For example the old Colt 1911’s were unreliable without first porting and throating them. And let’s not forget the original Glock 22’s where the barrel had less support than needed causing heads to blow especially with reloads (and hot factory ammo).

I guess what I’m saying is that unfortunately things don’t always work right out of the box and I suspect that this will always be the case due to poor QA, design, etc. So it falls upon the end-user to be careful and knowledgeable about things that can and do go wrong.

And as we’ve seen price is not necessarily correlated with quality Sad

I completely understand you. But for my edc 1911 I sent it back twice to ruger. They replaced with one that had no issues.
My newest carry p938 rosewood would be sent back if it didn’t run so beautifully It's one thing to tinker, I enjoy it on my guns, but my carry guns are factory stock. Maybe slight dehorn or smoothing.

I really like Ruger’s customer support. I once had an issue with a semi-auto that didn’t manifest itself for over 5 years (off-center firing pin strikes on double action mode). Called Ruger about it and they sent me a prepaid shipping sticker no questions asked.

I wished all companies were like Ruger.

Calmaja
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Tom E wrote:

Got my Cometa today. It’s true 24 AWG, clearly labeled in mine. I would not have liked 20 AWG wires in this light – no clearances, and the people assembling these things I would not trust to spend the careful attention to detail to do it right. Even the 24 AWG is too thick for these guys to do properly, as we are finding out.


Yes – white over the red. Hank/Noctigon did not want their name showing on these GB deals.

+1
May be they already aware of the issue if using thicker wire, higher possibility scratching the disk.

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@ Rusty Joe - Just about everyone moves on sooner or later, especially for something like flashlights.     Just sayin'

 

Too many fingers in the pie sometimes and too many people who thought they knew how to make a flashlight and ended up not knowing the things that needed to be checked, like simple clearances. Too many small time companies over there, with not enough knowledge & resources, or enough control, to keep quality as a perspective. Too many makers of components like batteries, where there is a simple lack of control of standardization. If cells had standards that had to be met, for OAL, OD and the raise of the positive contacts and contact diameters, then there would be less nasty problems like yours.

 

Take care buddy and go find something that brings back the spark you need.

It's all what it is. Best of luck with whatever you do.

 

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I take it as a given that I’ll need to tweak something and sometimes I’m pleasantly surprised not to. Group buys are becoming more customized which takes a known product further from stock and introduces more possible chances for mistakes. Most things I enjoy drive me to distraction at some point, it’s the challenge and chance to be creative that brings me back to any of them. Hope you find your way back.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I picked up my Cometa today. During the teardown, I noticed to damage to the anodising on the black disk thingy. The damage seems to be more towards the LED than where I would expect damage from the solder points to be, however I should note that after screwing the disk on and off again, the damage was worse. One of the solder points does however a spiky bit.

I’ve attached a link to the photo below (I’m having issues embedding the photo)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenk1977/26326237223/in/dateposted/

Any advise on whether this is purely cosmetic, or likely to result in a short would be greatly appreciated.
I won’t be using the light until I’m confident it is safe.

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Heres your picture.

!{width:100%}Cometa-1!

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

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old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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stephenk
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Thanks. I need to read the how to post a picture thread!

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stephenk - No pic showing, and link doesn't work for me... If you are talking the bottom side of the disc, then yes - sounds like a potential short. If you could flatten out the solder, or if not, cover them up, but there will be a lot of heat there, so use something that can take the heat.

On mine, excessive solder was used - bumper up way too high, but think mine still cleared. My fix was to reduce the solder and flatten it out with the flat tip iron.

teacher
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stephenk wrote:
I picked up my Cometa today. During the teardown, I noticed to damage to the anodising on the black disk thingy. The damage seems to be more towards the LED than where I would expect damage from the solder points to be, however I should note that after screwing the disk on and off again, the damage was worse. One of the solder points does however a spiky bit.

Any advise on whether this is purely cosmetic, or likely to result in a short would be greatly appreciated.
I won’t be using the light until I’m confident it is safe.
Cometa-1


It gets worse each tome you take it off and put it back on???

Hmmmm. it must be rubbing against something. Let me think a minute and get some coffee in me. Wink
———————————————————————————————
Thanks for fixing the pic MRsDNF!!!
I just added it to his original post. Smile

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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Dregs
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Got my Cometa yesterday, I made a plastic ring for battery. I tried to open it up to check the solder points but the concave ring on mine is stuck, I cant seem to get it off tried to pry it out but im afraid to use to use too much force. Am I missing something should it be difficult to remove? I tried the light out anyways and it is in single mode pretty bright. I thought it was in muggle mode, but no amount of half clicks will put me in config mode. Any help very appreciated, seems the main thread was locked so I asked here.

teacher
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teacher wrote:
stephenk wrote:
I picked up my Cometa today. During the teardown, I noticed to damage to the anodising on the black disk thingy. The damage seems to be more towards the LED than where I would expect damage from the solder points to be, however I should note that after screwing the disk on and off again, the damage was worse. One of the solder points does however a spiky bit.

Any advise on whether this is purely cosmetic, or likely to result in a short would be greatly appreciated.
I won’t be using the light until I’m confident it is safe.
Cometa-1


It gets worse each tome you take it off and put it back on???

Hmmmm. it must be rubbing against something. Let me think a minute and get some coffee in me. Wink
———————————————————————————————
Thanks for fixing the pic MRsDNF!!!
I just added it to his original post. Smile


Yeah, I can see where both your positive & negative solder joints are hitting the cover on the slanted part. It looks just like two of mine did.

The rub marks out closer to the edge is where it is rubbing on something. Possibly a high spot on the MCPCB. See if you can see any coinciding rub marks on it, you should be able to see rub marks on the solder joints also.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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teacher
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Dregs wrote:
Got my Cometa yesterday, I made a plastic ring for battery. I tried to open it up to check the solder points but the concave ring on mine is stuck, I cant seem to get it off tried to pry it out but im afraid to use to use too much force. Am I missing something should it be difficult to remove? I tried the light out anyways and it is in single mode pretty bright. I thought it was in muggle mode, but no amount of half clicks will put me in config mode. Any help very appreciated, seems the main thread was locked so I asked here.

DO NOT pry it, it screws out.

IF it is in a single mode and real bright you have a problem!!!!

QUIT using it till you find the problem

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

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bella-headlight
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Standard right hand thread on that retaining ring.
A small rubber strap wrench is a great help in situations like this as it dosen“t mark the anodizing.
Like this from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html
I had murder getting the lens bezel off mine where it had been overtightened.

Ian

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If you got one of those cheap pair of rubber-like textured gloves, they work wonders - I use them all the time on lights. Best first option before strap wrench's, etc.

Brett H
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teacher wrote:
Dregs wrote:
Got my Cometa yesterday, I made a plastic ring for battery. I tried to open it up to check the solder points but the concave ring on mine is stuck, I cant seem to get it off tried to pry it out but im afraid to use to use too much force. Am I missing something should it be difficult to remove? I tried the light out anyways and it is in single mode pretty bright. I thought it was in muggle mode, but no amount of half clicks will put me in config mode. Any help very appreciated, seems the main thread was locked so I asked here.

DO NOT pry it, it screws out.

IF it is in a single mode and real bright you have a problem!!!!

QUIT using it till you find the problem

+1 Do not pry it, it is threaded. Use anything rubber to get a grip and unscrew it

djburkes
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bella-headlight wrote:
Standard right hand thread on that retaining ring. A small rubber strap wrench is a great help in situations like this as it dosen“t mark the anodizing. Like this from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html I had murder getting the lens bezel off mine where it had been overtightened.

I don’t think that strap wrench will do anything in this situation as the retaining ring is flush and there is nothing to put the strap wrench around. He needs to use either needle nose or snap ring pliers.

teacher
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djburkes wrote:
bella-headlight wrote:
Standard right hand thread on that retaining ring.
A small rubber strap wrench is a great help in situations like this as it dosen“t mark the anodizing.
Like this from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-rubber-strap-wrench-set-69373.html
I had murder getting the lens bezel off mine where it had been overtightened.

I don’t think that strap wrench will do anything in this situation as the retaining ring is flush and there is nothing to put the strap wrench around. He needs to use either needle nose or snap ring pliers.

It was not real clear but they were not talking about the Pill they were talking about the anodized cover the guy above was trying to “pry off with a screwdriver”. Facepalm

So far on all mine I have just grabbed the thing and screwed it off. Maybe his was on tighter or something????

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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hank
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Noted by Tom E. in the other thread, he “used one of the 19 mm 3M isolators for the batt+ end problem” — cut the center opening a bit wider and it fits nicely over the exposed metal.

Tom E
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Yea, the BASEN cell has about a 15 mm wide metal cap, so the 18.8 mm or so of the isolator should cover it easy. I used cutters to make the center hole a bit wider & rounder. Did a ton of them like this when I was mod'n Super Shockers (cool).

hank
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Quote:
the retaining ring is flush

Nope. Unscrew the zoom part from inside the head a ways, and the retaining parabolic thing will emerge from inside the outer shell so you can grab it easily.

I had to use well-padded-and-taped ViseGrip pliers the first time, the thing was cranked down so firmly.

unknown00101
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Jeansy made a breakdown/fix video if you’re having difficulty.

stephenk
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teacher wrote:
teacher wrote:
stephenk wrote:
I picked up my Cometa today. During the teardown, I noticed to damage to the anodising on the black disk thingy. The damage seems to be more towards the LED than where I would expect damage from the solder points to be, however I should note that after screwing the disk on and off again, the damage was worse. One of the solder points does however a spiky bit.

Any advise on whether this is purely cosmetic, or likely to result in a short would be greatly appreciated.
I won’t be using the light until I’m confident it is safe.
Cometa-1


It gets worse each tome you take it off and put it back on???

Hmmmm. it must be rubbing against something. Let me think a minute and get some coffee in me. Wink
———————————————————————————————
Thanks for fixing the pic MRsDNF!!!
I just added it to his original post. Smile


Yeah, I can see where both your positive & negative solder joints are hitting the cover on the slanted part. It looks just like two of mine did.

The rub marks out closer to the edge is where it is rubbing on something. Possibly a high spot on the MCPCB. See if you can see any coinciding rub marks on it, you should be able to see rub marks on the solder joints also.

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like I’m going to have to go down the replace or refund route sadly. Unless the 2 fundamental safety flaws of the Cometa will be fixed in an updated version, I’ll probably be the latter option. Sad

(BTW Banggood did kindly send me an insulating disk in request, but that is now irrelevant.)

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Sharpie wrote:
stephenk wrote:

Thanks for the feedback. Looks like I’m going to have to go down the replace or refund route sadly. Unless the 2 fundamental safety flaws of the Cometa will be fixed in an updated version, I’ll probably be the latter option. Sad

(BTW Banggood did kindly send me an insulating disk in request, but that is now irrelevant.)

Actually, I suspect that there at least three, so far identified.


What was the third again?
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stephenk][quote=teacher wrote:
teacher wrote:
stephenk wrote:
I picked up my Cometa today. During the teardown, I noticed to damage to the anodising on the black disk thingy. The damage seems to be more towards the LED than where I would expect damage from the solder points to be, however I should note that after screwing the disk on and off again, the damage was worse. One of the solder points does however a spiky bit.

Any advise on whether this is purely cosmetic, or likely to result in a short would be greatly appreciated.
I won’t be using the light until I’m confident it is safe.
Cometa-1


It gets worse each tome you take it off and put it back on???

Hmmmm. it must be rubbing against something. Let me think a minute and get some coffee in me. Wink
———————————————————————————————
Thanks for fixing the pic MRsDNF!!!
I just added it to his original post. Smile


Yeah, I can see where both your positive & negative solder joints are hitting the cover on the slanted part. It looks just like two of mine did.

The rub marks out closer to the edge is where it is rubbing on something. Possibly a high spot on the MCPCB. See if you can see any coinciding rub marks on it, you should be able to see rub marks on the solder joints also.

I’m confused here. As I look at my light, and that cover thing in my hand, it looks like when I screw it down that the solder points will miss landing on the top portion of that covering ring, but would instead be in that deeper middle area. Is that where they should be, so as not to cause any issues?

thank you.

patrick

hank
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Patrick, don’t trust it never to cause any issues.
You might shake it, or drop it.
“Do you feel lucky?” isn’t the right question to ask for li-ion cells.

Put some tape or other insulator under the black thing so the solder blobs on the end of the black and red wires can’t contact the black parabolic screwin thing, even if the board with the LED floats up out of place. The LED board is not held down by anything except pressure from the black thing as it screws down, and the black anodizing can scrape off.

And add a homemade insulator around the battery spring contact on the other side of the pill too.

And check the tightness of the retaining ring that holds the driver in place.

And look through the retaining ring and see if the driver looks centered, not off to one side.

Wear safety glasses. Work outdoors.. Don’t inhale if it smokes. Your luck may vary.
No advice here is a promise that you will be safe from anything.
Be wary of grues.

Dregs
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Yeah I tried screwing it off and It wouldn’t budge, looking at it one side was flush the other side had a small gap. So I thought maybe it doesn’t screw in and it’s just wedged.

Once you all confirmed it was in deed threaded, I put a shop towel on it and used channel locks to get it off. No clue how they got it so damn tight.

It was rubbing on both solder blobs, I think it only wore trough the anno on the negative tho.

teacher
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Dregs wrote:
Yeah I tried screwing it off and It wouldn’t budge, looking at it one side was flush the other side had a small gap. So I thought maybe it doesn’t screw in and it’s just wedged.

Once you all confirmed it was in deed threaded, I put a shop towel on it and used channel locks to get it off. No clue how they got it so damn tight.

It was rubbing on both solder blobs, I think it only wore trough the anno on the negative tho.


Good , ya’ got it off. Smile
Insulate them both, do not trust the “anno” to do it… Wink

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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And check the tightness of the retaining ring that holds the driver in place.

And look through the retaining ring and see if the driver looks centered, not off to one side.

thank you for your comments. I have a couple of questions:

In this picture, is the outer brass colored ring with the 2 holes in it, is that the retaining ring that holds the driver in place? I guess it isn’t cu I can’t see thru it as u asked me to do. How do you see the driver?

arrrggggg!

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