P.S.: in fact it becomes a slightly better deal, especially with 3+ units volume discounts.
—
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
[/quote]
Probably all the same.
I got all of mine at GearBest for right around $20 US for four of them and they all check out above advertised specs. :THUMBS-UP:[/quote]
Thank you teacher.
They dont work with L6 – they are too short for L6( even with an added magnet) plus the tail L6 spring is kinda short one ….with S70 are fine though
Yet, its easy fixable
5200s are definately better, the flashlight is more productive with 5200 or 5500 Soshine
They dont work with L6 – they are too short for L6( even with an added magnet) plus the tail L6 spring is kinda short one ….with S70 are fine though
Yet, its easy fixable
5200s are definately better, the flashlight is more productive with 5200 or 5500 Soshine
A little bit of solder on the top of the Liitokala should fix that shouldn’t it?
How are these Liitokala batteries with the Convoy L6?
They work just fine in my L6.
Matter of fact, I have experienced zero problems using the LiitoKala 26650’s in any of my L6’s.
In fact I have one pair that works in series without any “fix”.
I use THIS with the others. Although a solder blob, magnet, or some other “fix” will also work just fine also. For my purpose though, the Jaxman Series Connector is about as simple as it gets and works just fine.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
They dont work with L6 – they are too short for L6( even with an added magnet) plus the tail L6 spring is kinda short one ….with S70 are fine though
Yet, its easy fixable
5200s are definately better, the flashlight is more productive with 5200 or 5500 Soshine
The LiitoKala cells fit fine in my L6. I used a small magnet to make better contact between the cells. Though I wouldn’t recommend the magnet without adhering it to the positive end of one of the cells.
I personally am totally pleased with the LiitoKala’s. All 12 of mine test out above the stated 5000 mAh. Price is right. They work 100% reliably in the L6. What more could one ask for???
And as for the tail spring, if I were you I would not rush right out and change it till you try yours out. I have three L6’s and it would be absolutely useless to change the tail springs in any of the three.
Hope this helps……………
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
I personally am totally pleased with the LiitoKala’s. All 12 of mine test out above the stated 5000 mAh. Price is right. They work 100% reliably in the L6. What more could one ask for???
And as for the tail spring, if I were you I would not rush right out and change it till you try yours out. I have three L6’s and it would be absolutely useless to change the tail springs in any of the three.
Hope this helps……………
Will do. I think perhaps an earlier version may have had weaker springs Mitko is referring to. Perhaps Simon has already addressed the issue. Thanks.
I had no problem ordering the batteries either, what I tried to write is that the Jaxman ‘connector’ is no longer available from AliExprees.
The Jaxman store constantly delists and relists their items. I noticed their 219Bs vanishing and reappearing four or five times already in half a year.
On the other hand, there is nothing arcane in this thingy. Making a spacer is trivial anyway.
I received two of them,charged with a Liito Kala 500,and put in a Cometa and a Manker U21. I measured the intensity of their light,and I found 164000cd from the Cometa,(159000cd with a Keeppower black 26650),and 121000cd from the Manker,(114000cd,with the same Keeppower battery).
Measured at 4.8m distance.
Edit.
I love Cometa.It shines…
My Manker U21 does 240 kcd, and a 2nd U21 I modded for a fellow BLFer does 253 kcd and over 1700 lumens, all on LK 5000 cells.
I feel the LK 5000 is the best cell on the planet right now, better than the best 18650's and better than all the other 26650's I have/tested. Even if it's close to an EFEST 4200 IMR, or the old Powerizer 26650, the higher capacity of the LK means it will maintain high amps for longer.
Imagine if the LK5000 was the full length of most other 26650, more capacity and current capability.
Those are impressive numbers for a U21, those are with the new W2 XP-L’s correct?
I just wish they were in something warmer then 1A, I find that on throwers in particular a warmer tint is “visible” further then a cooler tint, even if it is brighter. My S70 vs L6 being a perfect example.
I feel the LK 5000 is the best cell on the planet right now, better than the best 18650’s and better than all the other 26650’s I have/tested. Even if it’s close to an EFEST 4200 IMR, or the old Powerizer 26650, the higher capacity of the LK means it will maintain high amps for longer.
Texas_Ace wrote:
Imagine if the LK5000 was the full length of most other 26650, more capacity and current capability.
+1, Yes & Amen!!! .. I totally agree on all counts.
My LiitoKala’s stand tall above any of the several brands of 26650’s I have, and really extremely tall to a couple of the “brands”.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
My Manker U21 does 240 kcd, and a 2nd U21 I modded for a fellow BLFer does 253 kcd and over 1700 lumens, all on LK 5000 cells.
I feel the LK 5000 is the best cell on the planet right now, better than the best 18650’s and better than all the other 26650’s I have/tested. Even if it’s close to an EFEST 4200 IMR, or the old Powerizer 26650, the higher capacity of the LK means it will maintain high amps for longer.
Can you please tell me what changes you have done to the U21,so as to bring it to 240Kcd?I have a friend here in Greece,who could possibly do something about.
Can you please tell me what changes you have done to the U21,so as to bring it to 240Kcd?I have a friend here in Greece,who could possibly do something about. :-)
Sorry, should do a full mod thread on it. I piggybacked in a 17 mm FET+1 driver, using the SIR800DP FET. 20 AWG LED wires, 20 AWG bypass on the driver spring, and I believe 22 AWG wire bypass on the tailcap spring - no need to remove the spring/PCB from the tailcap - easy enough to do in place.
Then on the LED side, the stock MCPCB is true DTP and nice big 28mm size. So I removed the stock XHP35 from it, replaced with a XPL V6 0D (XPL W2 1A on the other), then dedomed it. For both dedomes I used ZEP Aerosolve II. The V6 0D is a nasty dedome - doesn't come off cleanly, but the W2 1A dedomed easy. Could use gas or heat, whatever you prefer.
So, between the FET+1 driver and the dedomed XPL V6/W2, you got all the makings for some great throw'n for a Manker U21. It's all a shame of course because you are throwing away some expensive parts, but hey - do you want the most out of it or not?
More details:
For my driver, I used an Attiny85 running Narsil v1.2, so got all the bells&whistles, but I prefer the smooth ramping mode.
In this case I used an MTN17DDm bare driver and tweaked the parts a bit with my own Narsil/e-switch setup. Special mod is to add the 4.7 ohm resistor prior to the D1 diode
piggybacking a driver - strip all components off the stock driver, find a good position for mounting the driver with Batt- points for your supporting grnd wires. I used four 22 AWG teflon wire - very stiff, very solid mount for the 17mm driver - gotta keep a low profile because not much clearance in the U21 pill area.
after positioning, I drilled a hole in about the middle of the stock driver to thread the Batt+ wire directly from the spring, thru the stock driver, thru the piggyback 17, then direct to the MCPCB.
Result:
Wired up to the harness for the switch, grnd, and RED LED control:
Used a 5.6K resistor for the RED LED - seemed to work out well.
My bad, I read it wrong.
Hopefully they will come up again, they do work real good.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Probably all the same.
I got all of mine at GearBest for right around $20 US for four of them and they all check out above advertised specs.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The LiitoKala 26650-50As can also be gotten at Banggood for a similar steal than at GearBest if you are wise to check out M4D M4X's deals.
Cheers
P.S.: in fact it becomes a slightly better deal, especially with 3+ units volume discounts.
Please avoid fully quoting lenghty posts, namely with nested quotes. Trim quotes down to the essential. Helps with neatness and legibility. Thanks.
The human mind, and its programming, is at the forefront of a particular battle of The Light vs evil dark forces. Nearly every human being on this beautiful planet “Earth” has some sort of negative mind programming in its mind. And you better take care of your mind programming, or someone else will in this wicked world.
[/quote]
Probably all the same.
I got all of mine at GearBest for right around $20 US for four of them and they all check out above advertised specs. :THUMBS-UP:[/quote]
Thank you teacher.
Hmm when I follow the link in my previous post I can add a jaxman connector to my cart so it seems available to me.
maybe jaxman just likes me 
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
How are these Liitokala batteries with the Convoy L6?
Is it better to go with these or the short Keeppower 26650 5200mah?
They dont work with L6 – they are too short for L6( even with an added magnet) plus the tail L6 spring is kinda short one ….with S70 are fine though
Yet, its easy fixable
5200s are definately better, the flashlight is more productive with 5200 or 5500 Soshine
A little bit of solder on the top of the Liitokala should fix that shouldn’t it?
Indeed
Its a good idea to swap the L6 tail spring too, its kinda short and flagile looking, i already mailed Simon about that issue
My Liitokala with a solder blob on one of them have a good fit.
Keeppower 5200 protected (the new short ones) are also good.
The tailspring of my L6 has a lenght of almost 14 mm and is quite solid.
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW
Convoy S2+ Multi Color --- Convoy S2+ Multi Color 18500 Shorty
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
They work just fine in my L6.
Matter of fact, I have experienced zero problems using the LiitoKala 26650’s in any of my L6’s.
In fact I have one pair that works in series without any “fix”.
I use THIS with the others. Although a solder blob, magnet, or some other “fix” will also work just fine also. For my purpose though, the Jaxman Series Connector is about as simple as it gets and works just fine.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
The LiitoKala cells fit fine in my L6. I used a small magnet to make better contact between the cells. Though I wouldn’t recommend the magnet without adhering it to the positive end of one of the cells.
Mine are 14mm also, substantial, as well as solid.
Personally, there would be no reason to replace any of the tail springs in my L6’s.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
So would you guys recommend saving some money and just going with these Liitokala over the protected Keeppowers?
What spring do you recommend?
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW
Convoy S2+ Multi Color --- Convoy S2+ Multi Color 18500 Shorty
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
They fit my L6 very nice with a connecting magnet.
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I personally am totally pleased with the LiitoKala’s. All 12 of mine test out above the stated 5000 mAh. Price is right. They work 100% reliably in the L6. What more could one ask for???
And as for the tail spring, if I were you I would not rush right out and change it till you try yours out. I have three L6’s and it would be absolutely useless to change the tail springs in any of the three.
Hope this helps……………
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Will do. I think perhaps an earlier version may have had weaker springs Mitko is referring to. Perhaps Simon has already addressed the issue. Thanks.
The Jaxman store constantly delists and relists their items. I noticed their 219Bs vanishing and reappearing four or five times already in half a year.
On the other hand, there is nothing arcane in this thingy. Making a spacer is trivial anyway.
I went ahead and ordered 4 of these last night. Looking forward to trying them out with the L6 when it gets here.
I received two of them,charged with a Liito Kala 500,and put in a Cometa and a Manker U21. I measured the intensity of their light,and I found 164000cd from the Cometa,(159000cd with a Keeppower black 26650),and 121000cd from the Manker,(114000cd,with the same Keeppower battery).
Measured at 4.8m distance.
Edit.
I love Cometa.It shines…
My Manker U21 does 240 kcd, and a 2nd U21 I modded for a fellow BLFer does 253 kcd and over 1700 lumens, all on LK 5000 cells.
I feel the LK 5000 is the best cell on the planet right now, better than the best 18650's and better than all the other 26650's I have/tested. Even if it's close to an EFEST 4200 IMR, or the old Powerizer 26650, the higher capacity of the LK means it will maintain high amps for longer.
Imagine if the LK5000 was the full length of most other 26650, more capacity and current capability.
Those are impressive numbers for a U21, those are with the new W2 XP-L’s correct?
I just wish they were in something warmer then 1A, I find that on throwers in particular a warmer tint is “visible” further then a cooler tint, even if it is brighter. My S70 vs L6 being a perfect example.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
My LiitoKala’s stand tall above any of the several brands of 26650’s I have, and really extremely tall to a couple of the “brands”.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Can you please tell me what changes you have done to the U21,so as to bring it to 240Kcd?I have a friend here in Greece,who could possibly do something about.
Sorry, should do a full mod thread on it. I piggybacked in a 17 mm FET+1 driver, using the SIR800DP FET. 20 AWG LED wires, 20 AWG bypass on the driver spring, and I believe 22 AWG wire bypass on the tailcap spring - no need to remove the spring/PCB from the tailcap - easy enough to do in place.
Then on the LED side, the stock MCPCB is true DTP and nice big 28mm size. So I removed the stock XHP35 from it, replaced with a XPL V6 0D (XPL W2 1A on the other), then dedomed it. For both dedomes I used ZEP Aerosolve II. The V6 0D is a nasty dedome - doesn't come off cleanly, but the W2 1A dedomed easy. Could use gas or heat, whatever you prefer.
So, between the FET+1 driver and the dedomed XPL V6/W2, you got all the makings for some great throw'n for a Manker U21. It's all a shame of course because you are throwing away some expensive parts, but hey - do you want the most out of it or not?
More details:
Result:
Wired up to the harness for the switch, grnd, and RED LED control:
Used a 5.6K resistor for the RED LED - seemed to work out well.
Full photo albums for both U21's: photobucket MankerU21-LJ and mine: photobucket MankerU21 - TomE
Thank you very much Tom E.
You know I’m coming around Tom so you can explain all that to me in English.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
In case you missed it Tom E has an informative review of the Manker U21.
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/47412
“You must have a plan, if you don’t have a plan, you will become part of someone else’s plan.” Terence McKenna
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