GBGB, LD-51 dual cell XHP35 Boost Driver, Great Price!

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thijsco19
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This is the response I just got from gearbest.

_“the answer from the supplier, it’s useless of the key

if the driver is design for Light touch switch, then the key will work

but the driver the supplier provide is design for the tail switch

so the key part is useless for that driver”_

Sirius9
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Jerommel wrote:

From what i have read the ‘key’ can set the brightness of each level, ramping up when connected to [-]
To reset it you ‘tap’ it 3 times to [-]
I’m assuming the max brightness is the 1.5 Amperes determined by the R100 for all modes.
Anyone try this yet?

I tried to set brightness level by connecting KEY and ground (-) -> it doesnt work,
and about max brightness, I got 1.57A from 2S samsung ICR18650-26FU laptop pulls charged to 7.95V, same results using INR18650-30Q at 8.26V. (stock R100).

Edit> Actually in my case it’s R010 !!!

 

Jerommel
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Thanks for trying and comment.

Sirius9
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Thumbs Up It would be awesome if they included e-switch support but… can’t have everything I guess.

 

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I just tried this driver and it puts out 1A on the led. If I short the unmarked resistor with a wire it just puts out 1,2A. What is wrong with mine?

thijsco19
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Hm.. I dont know.

Did you get this driver at the time of the groupbuy?
If not it might be another version that doesn’t perform as the previous ones.

To be honest I totally forgot this groupbuy.. I hope everything worked out, and everyone is happy.

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No I ordered it about 2 months ago. Can somebody post pics about both sides from a bumpable one?

BobbyMK
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I’ve read few replies here saying that the driver could be resistor modded but i could not find what value resistors were used. I am not skilled to determine that myself.

So if anyone knows what value resistors i need to make this driver output about 2A i will be happy to know that Smile

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
New driver with R010 resistor stacked on, gives 2.05 amps at the emitter, 4.79 at the battery! I don’t think this driver will survive past this current. At 2.30amps and the driver sinked it drops out in seconds!

Unless the components on this driver can be upgraded?

Need to find a host and do a build, and sink the heck out of this driver, but at just over 2 amps it should be pretty decent in a 2S side by side battery compartment style host with a big reflector, know of any? Big Smile


In an Haikelite HT35 I stacked the R050 of the LD-51 with an R100 and I got 2,25A at the LED. Now I have a XHP70@12V in it, because my XHP35 has a black dot in the middle, after two R100 on the R050. That was too much.
With the two R100 I got flickering on turbo after the black dot in the LED. Now with only one R100 there is no more flickering.
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
New driver with R010 resistor stacked on, gives 2.05 amps at the emitter, 4.79 at the battery! I don’t think this driver will survive past this current. At 2.30amps and the driver sinked it drops out in seconds!

Unless the components on this driver can be upgraded?

Need to find a host and do a build, and sink the heck out of this driver, but at just over 2 amps it should be pretty decent in a 2S side by side battery compartment style host with a big reflector, know of any? Big Smile


In an Haikelite HT35 I stacked the R050 of the LD-51 with an R100 and I got 2,25A at the LED. Now I have a XHP70@12V in it, because my XHP35 has a black dot in the middle, after two R100 on the R050. That was too much.
With the two R100 I got flickering on turbo after the black dot in the LED. Now with only one R100 there is no more flickering.

Very NICE!!! Thumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

BobbyMK
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Thanks a lot Wieselflinkpro, that was the answer i was looking for.

I added R120 resistor over the R050 one and got 1.97A at the LED. WOHOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!! Right on point, i just hope that the driver will survive at this power level.

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sac02
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So R120 is a 0.12 ohm resistor? I’m just learning the notation for these things.

Is it 1206 size needed on the LD-51?

Where do you guys get these resistors, do you just pull them all off of dead electronics? Could I buy a good assortment of SMD resistors to “jump start” a collection?

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sac02 wrote:
So R120 is a 0.12 ohm resistor? I’m just learning the notation for these things.

Is it 1206 size needed on the LD-51?

Where do you guys get these resistors, do you just pull them all off of dead electronics? Could I buy a good assortment of SMD resistors to “jump start” a collection?

Look up current sense resistor assortment using your preferred vender. Fassttech, eBay, aliexpress, or try google.

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Ah-haha, awesome! I was searching just “SMD resistor” (and variations) and none of those kits had less than 1.0ohm. Thanks!

edit: apparently current sense resistors are more expensive than regular resistors…

BobbyMK
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I stacked 1206 (3216) over the R050. Stock sense resistors (i believe there are two?) are bigger, not sure on exact size but they are bigger, i had no trouble stacking the smaller resistor over the stock one.

If you buy SMD resistor kits then i would suggest to go with 1206 because the bigger ones might not fit some drivers if used to replace or stack resistors.

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LightRider
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1206 is usually good. Sense resistors are basically a normal resistor with a higher power rating. It’s just a term that singles the higher wattage resistors from the rest. Usually bigger means higher power rating in general but smaller resistors can have higher than bigger as well. Now it comes down to price as well. Small resistors with high power ratings will cost more than the equivalent rating in a bigger package. And then… there are many qualities and brands to concider.

The good part is that for what we need, we just select the appropriate value and power and cheap. Smile

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I used this: https://www.fasttech.com/products/1616/10003973/1285500-thermal-conducti...
on the coil to prevent overheating. It fits good and reaches to the heatsink of the pill.

Here are Pics of the unmodded driver in the HT35: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/haikelite-ht35.56369/page-4#po...
And some more here: http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/media/albums/haikelite-ht35-mit-ld-51-...

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Huh a RED LD-51 mine are Blue?

Hmmm different marking on the coil too?

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Jerommel
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mine is blue too.

If the inductor gets hot, better replace it with a fatter one, preferably a ‘toroid’ with the light blue ring with dark blue on one side, so i’m told.

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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
New driver with R010 resistor stacked on, gives 2.05 amps at the emitter, 4.79 at the battery! I don’t think this driver will survive past this current. At 2.30amps and the driver sinked it drops out in seconds!

Unless the components on this driver can be upgraded?

Need to find a host and do a build, and sink the heck out of this driver, but at just over 2 amps it should be pretty decent in a 2S side by side battery compartment style host with a big reflector, know of any? Big Smile


In an Haikelite HT35 I stacked the R050 of the LD-51 with an R100 and I got 2,25A at the LED. Now I have a XHP70@12V in it, because my XHP35 has a black dot in the middle, after two R100 on the R050. That was too much.
With the two R100 I got flickering on turbo after the black dot in the LED. Now with only one R100 there is no more flickering.

Where to purchase this RED LD-51 at? I did a couple searches and came up with nothing? I’m in the midst of building another Super Courui 2S3P and this RED LD-51 at 2.25amps at the emitter would be better maybe…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

KawiBoy1428
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Jerommel wrote:
mine is blue too.

If the inductor gets hot, better replace it with a fatter one, preferably a ‘toroid’ with the light blue rind with dark blue on one side, so i’m told.


A 2S-3S-4S ( Inline and Multi parallel battery set up, due to the Vf of the 35) Boost driver for the XHP35 at 2.5-3amps would be at the top of my list for sure! Specially for inline lights, less loss compared to battery carrier lights. Or something like that! Big Smile

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
New driver with R010 resistor stacked on, gives 2.05 amps at the emitter, 4.79 at the battery! I don't think this driver will survive past this current. At 2.30amps and the driver sinked it drops out in seconds! p. Unless the components on this driver can be upgraded? p. Need to find a host and do a build, and sink the heck out of this driver, but at just over 2 amps it should be pretty decent in a 2S side by side battery compartment style host with a big reflector, know of any? :D
In an Haikelite HT35 I stacked the R050 of the LD-51 with an R100 and I got 2,25A at the LED. Now I have a XHP70@12V in it, because my XHP35 has a black dot in the middle, after two R100 on the R050. That was too much. With the two R100 I got flickering on turbo after the black dot in the LED. Now with only one R100 there is no more flickering.
Where to purchase this RED LD-51 at? I did a couple searches and came up with nothing? I'm in the midst of building another Super Courui 2S3P and this RED LD-51 at 2.25amps at the emitter would be better maybe... p. !{width:100%}https://s19.postimg.org/jj6wo36er/IMG_20170910_002732.jpg![/quote]

 

Where did you get your extension tubes?

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Gerrh wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Wieselflinkpro wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
New driver with R010 resistor stacked on, gives 2.05 amps at the emitter, 4.79 at the battery! I don’t think this driver will survive past this current. At 2.30amps and the driver sinked it drops out in seconds! p. Unless the components on this driver can be upgraded? p. Need to find a host and do a build, and sink the heck out of this driver, but at just over 2 amps it should be pretty decent in a 2S side by side battery compartment style host with a big reflector, know of any? Big Smile
In an Haikelite HT35 I stacked the R050 of the LD-51 with an R100 and I got 2,25A at the LED. Now I have a XHP70@12V in it, because my XHP35 has a black dot in the middle, after two R100 on the R050. That was too much. With the two R100 I got flickering on turbo after the black dot in the LED. Now with only one R100 there is no more flickering.
Where to purchase this RED LD-51 at? I did a couple searches and came up with nothing? I’m in the midst of building another Super Courui 2S3P and this RED LD-51 at 2.25amps at the emitter would be better maybe… p. !{width:100%}https://s19.postimg.org/jj6wo36er/IMG_20170910_002732.jpg!

 


Where did you get your extension tubes?


Bought a box full of parts off BLF member Nitro awhile back.

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

BobbyMK
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The red LD-51 came with the Hailelite HT35, and i don’t know if could be bought separately.

What does the different numbers on the inductor means? 1R0 vs 1R5?

Edit:

So the inductor on the blue LD51 is 1μH and the one on the red is 1.5μH.

Does this means that the red driver could be pushed harder or at least as the blue one but without worrying of overheating?

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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Where to purchase this RED LD-51 at? I did a couple searches and came up with nothing? I’m in the midst of building another Super Courui 2S3P and this RED LD-51 at 2.25amps at the emitter would be better maybe…

You can buy the red LD-51 within a flashlight: https://www.banggood.com/HaikeLite-HT35-XHP35-HD-CWNW-2000LM-3Modes-Zoomable-LED-Flashlight-1000M-p-1172825.html … with codes of cause cheaper.
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Where to purchase this RED LD-51 at? I did a couple searches and came up with nothing? I’m in the midst of building another Super Courui 2S3P and this RED LD-51 at 2.25amps at the emitter would be better maybe…

You can buy the red LD-51 within a flashlight: https://www.banggood.com/HaikeLite-HT35-XHP35-HD-CWNW-2000LM-3Modes-Zoomable-LED-Flashlight-1000M-p-1172825.html … with codes of cause cheaper.

Thanks, I found another LD-51 this morning, but the price with shipping Facepalm is ridiculous!

Check out the coil on this one, 1R5 and the second (green) resistor R020 instead of the R010?

https://www.hxlstore.com/521742337668.shtml

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WTF
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Kaidomain is selling two versions of this driver, both with 1mH inductor and without e-switch.

If I read the boost converter part number correctly the reference design uses a 10mH inductor. I’m no expert on this stuff but you should be able to parallel the inductors, maybe steal one off a spare driver. That will cut the electrical resistance of the inductor in half, reduce the chances of saturating it and turn it into a 2mH inductor. If its not too much trouble you can double up the output capacitors too. That should lead to more power, less heat and less driver instability. Or light the driver on fire.

I can’t figure out what the green resistor connects to, you might be able to find it in the spec sheet.

http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps40211.pdf

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No, inductors in parallel results in half the value.
In series it would double, but then the resistance also doubles.
You should replace it with a toroid inductor of the same value with 0.8 or 1.0mm copper wire.

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I learned a little about this stuff a long time ago and seem to have forgotten most of it. You’re right about series/ paralleling inductors but for some misguided reason I think they get paralled to double the stored energy in this application.Saturating the inductor is bad news, probably safer just to find a bigger one, don’t go too big because you don’t know how it will affect everything else in the circuit.

The old controllers had slower switching frequencies and needed bigger inductors. The newer stuff has higher switching frequencies, smaller inductors but the core needs to be higher quality. As the frequency goes up managing eddy currents gets harder. Whenever I see a torroid I wonder how good is the core. If you try one keep checking it for heat, you’ll know in a couple minutes if its ok.

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WTF wrote:
I learned a little about this stuff a long time ago and seem to have forgotten most of it. You’re right about series/ paralleling inductors but for some misguided reason I think they get paralled to double the stored energy in this application.Saturating the inductor is bad news, probably safer just to find a bigger one, don’t go too big because you don’t know how it will affect everything else in the circuit.

The old controllers had slower switching frequencies and needed bigger inductors. The newer stuff has higher switching frequencies, smaller inductors but the core needs to be higher quality. As the frequency goes up managing eddy currents gets harder. Whenever I see a torroid I wonder how good is the core. If you try one keep checking it for heat, you’ll know in a couple minutes if its ok.

I’ve been wanting to review this inductor stuff as well. So can you unwind any conductor and rewind with a bigger wire and the same number of turns?

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