SKILHUNT H03 H03R led headlamp release, 1200 LED lemens

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zeremefico
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F is the finest choice

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Mr.Scott
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bugsy36 wrote:
The “R” has a very very noticable spot. If you like being able to see a defined spot or will be using this in outdoor applications like hiking and camping then you probably want the “R”.  

I use my H02 primarily indoors so I do not prefer the reflector version in my application. Even when I am working outdoors I have grown accustomed to the TIR.

My coworkers prefer the R and other reflector equipped lights because they like that concentrated spot.

Hope this helps

Thanks bugsy! It does help.

I will be getting the H03 (TIR).

Budda
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H03F looks good, I hope I can get one from somewhere to test.

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fedcas
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beam0 wrote:
It already has the copper DTP so just drop in a FET/DD and you’re ready to blaze!

How do you know the copper star is also DTP? The only thing i can read is:

“thermoelectric separation copper star-board” which sounds like a bad translation but doesn’t sounds like DTP to me

will34
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That most likely means DTP, the thermal path separated from the dielectric layer.

fedcas
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The H03 just arrived to a friend of mine (he said it took just 9 days to London!) and he sent me a few pics:

Mmh. the anodization colour looks not very consistent :s

Torx screws instead of philips ones, nice Smile


That’s weird… they extended the tube a couple of mm, but didn’t thread it… so the threads are still too few like in the H02 :s I wonder what’s the point of this.


Soshine 3400 mAh


NCR18650B protected


10 mm shorter but both springs are still there, no worries Wink

Now a couple of questions for the ones who already received it:

- He said he couldn’t manage to unscrew the head :s are your head threads glued?

- For the ones who also owns a H02/H15: do you confirm that the threads are compatible so it’s possible to lego tubes and caps between H02 and H03?? (or also H15, but just the head side, the cap side is smaller). From these pictures they look the same to me, I hope they are compatible… actually that’s the only reasone why I’m waiting to buy it for me, I want to know if I can use a the 18350 short tube I’m using on the H02.

freeme
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You can't unscrew the head like H2. I have no problem to pair it with protected NCR18650B.

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Nicolicous
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freeme wrote:

You can’t unscrew the head like H2. I have no problem to pair it with protected NCR18650B.

Mine arrived today too. yeah cant unscrew the head Sad It could be glue

going to be hard to mod them later

Nico -.-

fedcas
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freeme wrote:

You can’t unscrew the head like H2.

I see Sad I hope heating with an hair dryer will be enough :s

freeme wrote:
I have no problem to pair it with protected NCR18650B.

Yeah I didn’t mean that, I’m just saying that with the H02 one has to be more careful than with most other flashlights when screwing the cap, especially with long batteries, because the thread are just 2-3 and so the spring is already loaded when the cap threads in. The H03 looks just the same, according to the pictures above.

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Got mine  a couple of days ago; extremely well made and I love the beam pattern. I will use it for hiking in desert. I am looking forward to comparing it to my armytek wizard.

 

 

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Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.

fedcas
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LightRider wrote:
Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.

Awesome! Can you tell us more about the threadlock? What have you used to get it open? Have you tried heating the body?

And what about the current modding, sense resistor?

freeme
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Brute force approach maybe?

fedcas wrote:
LightRider wrote:
Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.
Awesome! Can you tell us more about the threadlock? What have you used to get it open? Have you tried heating the body? And what about the current modding, sense resistor?

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fedcas
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fedcas wrote:

- For the ones who also owns a H02/H15: do you confirm that the threads are compatible so it’s possible to lego tubes and caps between H02 and H03?? (or also H15, but just the head side, the cap side is smaller). From these pictures they look the same to me, I hope they are compatible… actually that’s the only reasone why I’m waiting to buy it for me, I want to know if I can use a the 18350 short tube I’m using on the H02.

up Smile there should be several people here owing the h02/h15 as well
fedcas
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freeme wrote:

Brute force approach maybe?


fedcas wrote:
LightRider wrote:
Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.
Awesome! Can you tell us more about the threadlock? What have you used to get it open? Have you tried heating the body? And what about the current modding, sense resistor?

I guess so, but I mean if vise+pliers are needed or if heating and unscrewing with a cloth and bare hands is enough
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Tire inner tube is always a good approach, but don’t hold your pliers too tightly or there’s a risk to cut through it and scratch the anodization.
Use soft wood to hold the light in your vise.
Here is my method :

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freeme
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Nice tip, +1!

-X3- wrote:
Tire inner tube is always a good approach

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LightRider
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fedcas wrote:
LightRider wrote:
Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.

Awesome! Can you tell us more about the threadlock?

What have you used to get it open? Have you tried heating the body?

And what about the current modding, sense resistor?

The tread lock is red and nasty. It took a lot to clean the threads after. I tried mek and isopropyl alcohol, but in the end I had to patiently scrape away at it trying to avoid scratching the threads.

I opened it by holding the head in my hobby vice lined with cardboard. I put a heat gun on the joint for a minute or two watching closely to avoid fading the finish. After heated I took an old leather belt, wrapped it around the tube like a strap wrench. Then I took some channel locks and gripped the belt from the side as closely to the tube as I could. I then used the top side of the channel locks as a lever pushing down against the belt as I pushed down on the channel locks. To do this I had to pry opposite of the normal prying direction of the wrench. Finally some force and it finally broke loose.

There were two R082 resistors in paralell. I added an R100 over the top. This increased the measured current from 2.4amps to 3.2amps. However, I never advise doing this as there could be negative effects or could ruin the driver.

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fedcas wrote:
The H03 just arrived to a friend of mine (he said it took just 9 days to London!) and he sent me a few pics:

Mmh. the anodization colour looks not very consistent :s

Torx screws instead of philips ones, nice Smile


That’s weird… they extended the tube a couple of mm, but didn’t thread it… so the threads are still too few like in the H02 :s I wonder what’s the point of this.


Soshine 3400 mAh


NCR18650B protected


10 mm shorter but both springs are still there, no worries Wink

Now a couple of questions for the ones who already received it:

- He said he couldn’t manage to unscrew the head :s are your head threads glued?

- For the ones who also owns a H02/H15: do you confirm that the threads are compatible so it’s possible to lego tubes and caps between H02 and H03?? (or also H15, but just the head side, the cap side is smaller). From these pictures they look the same to me, I hope they are compatible… actually that’s the only reasone why I’m waiting to buy it for me, I want to know if I can use a the 18350 short tube I’m using on the H02.

The parts have the same threads, however the thread lengths are different. So the cap from the 02 does not cover all the threads from the 03 body

fedcas
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X3 wrote:
Tire inner tube is always a good approach, but don’t hold your pliers too tightly or there’s a risk to cut through it and scratch the anodization. Use soft wood to hold the light in your vise. Here is my method :

thanks for sharing Wink

LightRider wrote:
fedcas wrote:
LightRider wrote:
Man! Would I like to have a word with the inventor of threadlock. I finally got it open but it was not easy. Now it has an xpl and a current bump. Gives good throw. Nice light.

Awesome! Can you tell us more about the threadlock?

What have you used to get it open? Have you tried heating the body?

And what about the current modding, sense resistor?

The tread lock is red and nasty. It took a lot to clean the threads after. I tried mek and isopropyl alcohol, but in the end I had to patiently scrape away at it trying to avoid scratching the threads.

I opened it by holding the head in my hobby vice lined with cardboard. I put a heat gun on the joint for a minute or two watching closely to avoid fading the finish. After heated I took an old leather belt, wrapped it around the tube like a strap wrench. Then I took some channel locks and gripped the belt from the side as closely to the tube as I could. I then used the top side of the channel locks as a lever pushing down against the belt as I pushed down on the channel locks. To do this I had to pry opposite of the normal prying direction of the wrench. Finally some force and it finally broke loose.

There were two R082 resistors in paralell. I added an R100 over the top. This increased the measured current from 2.4amps to 3.2amps. However, I never advise doing this as there could be negative effects or could ruin the driver.

It looks like a little pain in the @$$ but at least we know it’s possible to mod it, thanks! Wink

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The amount of thread lock is ... incredible! LoL.

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fedcas
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LightRider wrote:
fedcas wrote:

- For the ones who also owns a H02/H15: do you confirm that the threads are compatible so it’s possible to lego tubes and caps between H02 and H03?? (or also H15, but just the head side, the cap side is smaller). From these pictures they look the same to me, I hope they are compatible… actually that’s the only reasone why I’m waiting to buy it for me, I want to know if I can use a the 18350 short tube I’m using on the H02.

The parts have the same threads, however the thread lengths are different. So the cap from the 02 does not cover all the threads from the 03 body

Awesome!! no problem for the H03 cap being longer, that’s a good thing actually! Wink

As you can see the H02 threads are a lot shorter than on most other lights… in the pictures you see H02 head and cap + Astrolux S1 short tube. I doubt the H03 tailcap would be long enough to cover the oring on the S1 tube but no problem for that, I have a spare tube that I’ve planned to mod for that purpose.

fedcas
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Just noticed the great review from freeme here Wink http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48215 (I think it’s the first and only for the moment, as long as I know)

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I believe the cap from the 03 will come very close to that oring. I can check later today. I have a short tube with h02 head as well. Right now I’m using that cap from a 503b and it covers up the oring. But no magnet.

fedcas
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LightRider wrote:
I believe the cap from the 03 will come very close to that oring. I can check later today. I have a short tube with h02 head as well. Right now I’m using that cap from a 503b and it covers up the oring. But no magnet.

wait, you mean UF 503b threads match the ones of Skilhunt and Astrolux?? That would be also very interesting!

By the way, what short tube are you using? The same Astrolux I am using?

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fedcas wrote:
LightRider wrote:
I believe the cap from the 03 will come very close to that oring. I can check later today. I have a short tube with h02 head as well. Right now I’m using that cap from a 503b and it covers up the oring. But no magnet.

wait, you mean UF 503b threads match the ones of Skilhunt and Astrolux?? That would be also very interesting!

By the way, what short tube are you using? The same Astrolux I am using?

Yes, the 503 b fits and covers the oring. I don’t care for the look though. I checked the 03 cap on the astrolux short tube and it goes up to about the center of the oring where you have it place. However, the oring can be moved to the slot right after the threads and the 03 cap completely covers the oring and it fits and looks nice.

fedcas
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LightRider wrote:
fedcas wrote:
LightRider wrote:
I believe the cap from the 03 will come very close to that oring. I can check later today. I have a short tube with h02 head as well. Right now I’m using that cap from a 503b and it covers up the oring. But no magnet.

wait, you mean UF 503b threads match the ones of Skilhunt and Astrolux?? That would be also very interesting!

By the way, what short tube are you using? The same Astrolux I am using?

Yes, the 503 b fits and covers the oring. I don’t care for the look though. I checked the 03 cap on the astrolux short tube and it goes up to about the center of the oring where you have it place. However, the oring can be moved to the slot right after the threads and the 03 cap completely covers the oring and it fits and looks nice.

That’s some great info, thanks Wink

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No problem. I can’t give much more information though. I showed it to a friend and… Well, I have no more light. Silly I do have another one. I will be trying to open that up soon. Hopefully I can repeat the results without collateral damage. Wink

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Hey SKILHUNT, can I pay you for one of these metallic squares?
One of these:

Here are all my reviews on BLF

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ye i know what you mean,
i love mine, it’s light, bright, but dam that strap is tight, so much that it leaves an impression on my forehead when i take it off

one other thing is the battery compartment,
dam is that small

here’s my non edited review (so it may look like poop Silly )

size considerations
depth of battery holder/sleave 071.93 mm minus the spring (their are some tiny components on the pcb, probably about 1.2 mm in height at one side)
depth of battery holder/sleave to spring 066.62 mm (uncompressed)

negatives:
strap is a bit tight, and i only have a small head, although it’s still reasonably comfortable
battery compartment could have been a few millimeters bigger for larger protected batteries without compressing the spring to much

Some of the Batteries i’ve tried
samsung icr18650-22e sdi 64.88mm (non protected from a laptop battery someone left at the house) fits best
xtar 68.99 mm
skilhunt mm 69.71

the skilhunt BL-134 3400mAh sticks out by 3.65mm (spring uncompressed) although it does fit with a squeeze

final thoughts
a well made light, very bright, very light weight, wide angled beam which is great if you need to light up a large area no noticeable hot spots (neutral white version)
turbo is insanely bright
9.5/10
i might buy another

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