Light loss in a S2+ triple mod, added similar data for a reflector light in post#8, added data in post#20

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Rufusbduck
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A nice set of tests, Djozz. Altonx has a point, a more complete picture might be had from finding what drive current it takes to generate the same OTF lumens from various set ups.

Also, polycarbonate is tough stuff but my main concern is that many optics, especially multi-die optics aren’t smooth like a lens but have hollows or other cast shapes that catch debris and are hard to clean. I still use them though.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Firelight2
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Rufusbduck wrote:
A nice set of tests, Djozz. Altonx has a point, a more complete picture might be had from finding what drive current it takes to generate the same OTF lumens from various set ups. Polycarbonate is tough stuff but my main concern is that many optics, especially multi-die optics aren’t smooth like a lens but have hollows or other cast shapes that catch debris and are hard to clean. I still use them though.

Try the Carclo 10511 optic. Polish the front of it with jeweler’s rouge to remove the frosting. Gives a very pleasant beam pattern closer to that of a traditional reflector light … and unlike the 10507 there are no nooks and crannies for lint to build up in.

JaredM
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Thanks djozz!

I believed this to be the case with these triple/quad optics and dedomed/exotic emitters. I used to think even with the ideal LED the efficiency would be exactly similar to an average reflector.

I once built my BLF X6 into the copper 35mm triple (DD XPL) using the Cute-3 optic.. Until I turned the light on without the bezel installed. What I saw was an estimated 1/4th of the light spewing out from behind the optic. It soon got modified into a triple reflector setup. I didn’t take any measurements but I’ll say the output went from disappointing to just about right. I used ET D25A reflectors from KD and filed just the lips of the reflectors so they centered perfectly on the MCPCB. There’s no bezel overlap either Thumbs Up

Ouchyfoot
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Firelight2 wrote:
Try the Carclo 10511 optic. Polish the front of it with jeweler’s rouge to remove the frosting. Gives a very pleasant beam pattern closer to that of a traditional reflector light … and unlike the 10507 there are no nooks and crannies for lint to build up in.

Glad you reminded me. I’ve been meaning to do that.
I used to assume that the 10511 was just a 10507 with frosting until comfychair set me straight. Back when Noctigon released the first ever DTP triple board and triple mania began, quite a few people were polishing the Carlco 10511 optics.
ImA4Wheelr
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Caleb wrote:
I LOVE THIS FORUM.

Just when I think I have an understanding of the variables at work, more information is shared by another member from another part of our planet, that sheds more light (pun intended).

Awesome!

+1

Thank you djozz for another great thought-provoking contribution. Smile

Jerommel
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Interesting read.

snakebite
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ever thought of painting the id of the head white?

djozz
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snakebite wrote:
ever thought of painting the id of the head white?

You can do that and a bit more light will come out, but the contribution to the beam in forward direction will be minimal, it will be light in random direction and possibly not even uniform. In close-up illumination it will certainly add a bit though.
snakebite
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thats the idea i had.
unsure whether the otherwise absorbed light reflected back to the side of tir could end up in the main beam.

Agro
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What is “id of the head”?

clemence
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Hi Djozz, thanks for the test. I always wanted to do the same test too.
FYI, big portion of the losses come from the leaked light at the optic aperture. Carclo make optics to fit major brands so they have to make sure none of them squeezed by lack of clearance.
I will replicate your test with the recessed leg’s holes to bring the clearance to minimum.

- Clemence

djozz
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Bring it on! Smile

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