I little while ago I decided to roadtest some 4.35 batteries in my headlamps. Prior to that I was using 3400B's and such.
Maybe my imagination but they seemed to hold up longer even though the most they were rated was 3200mah.
Now I notice when I was looking to add some more that the 4.35's are getting harder to find.
Anybody else using 4.35 batteries?
I do and I love them. I stripped a Dell pack that had Sanyo ZTA’s in it and the protection PCB was bad. At the time of stripping all of them were around 2.95 volts and have held up very well. I use one in my S2+ when I have the long tube on it and I also use them in lights that are under 5 amps at the tailcap. I think the ones I have are rated at 5.8 amps and they seem to be up to the task. I would not mind having more of them!
As scarce as they are getting I am wondering if they are getting discontinued by the manufacturers but then again the newer chargers are becoming 4.35 capable so I honestly do not know.
RMM seems to have several. I’d think they’d be more advantageous in feeding boost or buck drivers where the extra voltage translates to extra watt hours than in supplying linear drivers where the extra voltage is just burned off as heat.
I have a LG D1 I bought from RMM. When I tried to buy another one later, it was out of stock, so I got the LG E1. They are both 4.35v and I’m happy with them. Since I only have two 18650s, you can say I’m using 100% 4.35v 18650s 
But I don’t have any 4.35v chargers, so they only get charged to 4.2v. I’m okay with that - no sweating about getting them overcharged.
I have a Convoy S2+ with 3*7135 and an Intl.Outdoor UV-led. This led has a rather high Vf.
With a fresh 4.35V Samsung 28A I get over 1A at the tailcap!
Thats mainly all I use in my lights that dont have a dd fet driver. 4.35 volt LG D1batteries that is.
Yes I want at least 1 for the overcharging Nitenumen
And if I did not have enough Panasonic’s 3400mAh I would certainly go for 4,35V cells since they don’t get charged to the max this should make them last more charge cycles and that I deem positive
Hi The Miller, the Thorfire 3000mah 18650 cell is in fact a Samsung 30B which is a 4.35v cell 
Ah great thanks will order one to make rge Nitenumen a nice gift!
I think 4.35V cells can be useful, but maybe some misunderstand how charging to 4.35V is actually different than charging to 4.2V. With the LG D1 cell, as can be seen from the measurements done by HKJ, there is a ~260mAh increase in capacity when charged to 4.35V. If the 4.35V discharge curve is shifted 260mAh to the left, it coincides with the 4.2V curve. So after the first 260mAh of the 4.35V discharge, it is equivalent to a full 4.2V discharge.
The thing that I like about the D1 cell is how the voltage stays relatively high throughout the discharge, relative to most other cells. But this is more a result of the cell design rather than what voltage it’s charged to.
You’re right, it’s not really a misunderstanding. I guess I was just explaining a realization that I had had. I’ve heard some (in the RC world) say that 4.35V batteries will hold a higher voltage throughout the discharge. In a sense this is true, but it’s also helpful to realize that after the first ~10% of the discharge, it will be equivalent to a full 4.2V battery.
I run the LG D1 in my lights now. Got them on AE
Have you tried charging to 4.35v? I figured the protection circuit would trip, so I haven’t tried.
I’ve got a bunch of 30Q’s from Dell battery packs. I really like em. They seem to last a little bit longer than my other 4.2 volt cells.
I do not have the Thorfire cells I was just informing The Miller that the Thorfire 3000 mah 18650 cell is a Samsung 30B 4.35v cell.
I know that The Miller likes Thorfire products & their “happy boxes”
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I know that The Miller likes Thorfire products & their “happy boxes”
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Who doesn’t!!?? :partying_face:
Interesting the nitenumen is part of my edc rotation I grab itore often than not. If it gets destroyed with carbon at work only out $20usd but my nitenumen won’t charge past 4.1 no matter what cell I put in it. 3400b, olight 2600, button top hg2, and BT 30q all the same terminates at 4.1 I’ve gotten to the point I just charge externally. Unless I’ve ran the battery down at work and need to replinish some on my lunch break
heheh
Yes but a fast browsing maes me see they cost ~$10 for 1 cell
after getting those 4 panasonics for ~$12.50 I am a bit spoiled
So for now I keep the Ntenumen as a small EDC thingy and charge cells in a normal charger 
Will do a AE search for the LG D1 though
AH
Thats more like it
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-PCS-lot-New-Original-LG-18650-D1-3000mAh-Li-ion-3-7v-Rechargeable-Battery-for/32658866464.html
despite missing a happy card, these seem to make me happy nevertheless
Yes there was a thread about it
Some have a very good value, some high and now you got low.
Not sure if this is relavant to the discussion but if you have a light with a led Vf of say 3.2V and draw a horizontal line at 3.2V on the discharge curve all of the voltage above that line is wasted as heat if the light has a linear driver and a 4.35V cell only just wastes a bit more than a 4.2V cell. If both cells are 3400mAhr capacity they would still get the same run time but the 4.35V cell has more Watthrs but doesn’t get to use the extra. That’s why I think the best application is probably a buck driver with two cells in series so you get to use the extra wattage but current draw is less than led current since 4.35V cells aren’t high amp cells.
I’m not promoting buck drivers per se but just pointing out that if you use one then these would be a good choice of cells for it.