I'm not really sure how to respond to this line of conversation. Maybe I shouldn't say anything at all, and yet here I go anyway I kinda feel bad since I'm the one that started the conversation about the pill surface finishing, but on the other hand I feel like I was fair and understanding in my comments, and I also feel like I had a genuine concern that others should be aware of. Some of the more experienced modders may check and hand-finish every pill they touch, but I bet some of the newer guys don't. I know I didn't when I was first starting out. So I was just trying to help others who may come after us, since that was what the "first 10" was called upon to do. If something I said offended Paul or Jaxman then I truly apologize. It was not my intention. I think they make a fantastic product and hope they'll continue to work with us.
I'm not innocent in all this as well . Might have mis-interpreted things, specially considering I'm a big fan of the Z1 and very impressed by the overall quality of the Jaxman lights.
If it’s an issue, it’s an issue. 1970’s era Ford Pinto’s blow up when they’re rear-ended. It’s not slander, or meant to be offensive, it’s the truth. If your light had an issue, let’s discuss it and try to resolve the problem. Which it did. Jaxman started his own thread talking about machining of the pills, so he is now aware of the potential issue (even though I think yours was the only one that appeared to be way off spec).
The Z1 isn’t a completely flawless light, and the price tag reflects that. So there are going to be issues that are discussed. Which is why I started the thread.
Sweeping the negatives under the rug, like the other thread had a bad habit of, doesn’t solve anything. Let’s put all of our heads together and solve the problem!
Having said all of that, I think everyone would agree that the positives WAY outweigh the negatives of the Z1. It’s an amazing light!
So you are pretty close to what we thought the Cometa would be?
Nice, love that tint!
(I think it will be the first thing I do BTW just to see how it is.)
FWIW , nw Cometa (a 3B supposedly ?) on the left, Brynite B158 modded with a 3C on the right, the 3C looks very nice and neutral (to me) in real life.
Reworked the 4s mtn version to 20mm noctigon xhp35 d4 5k. 4× 26350 16.8v two tube. Excellent focus and major improvement over the single tube FX35 single 26650. lux actual: l/m/h/t 63, 396, 486, 980. Conversion: Area in Sq Ft, Sp rad 2 /ft, Surface 50.265,,,,numbers lumen 292, 1849, 2269, 4576. Will do comparison FX later. Thoughts: Excellent for everyday use h/m/l with occasional turbo when needed approx one minute as heat builds. No additional heatsink added. Used kaptan on base of cover. Added adhesive insulator to back of cover centered. Added round plastic centering ring resting on noctigon around led with cover at one and one half threads in. Outside no tint shift noticed. More later. …and I wished I had pics too.
Paul needs a couple of days before he can respond in depth to my proposal of a simpler way for BLFers to get this host.
I asked him to do it either just 1 at the time (so somebody wants a host and gets a PM how to get it the same day) or collect more.
The first way would not take a lot of time and could be done during busy times since it is not 25/50/100 orders at once.
He did not reject now but asked for some time to write a good answer. Report back when hearing more.
The mailman (well actually a women ) brought a box.
Yellow heavy tape all around.
Inside was a small white simple box and sone stuff to fill it.
When opening a mat anodised tail was visible.
I pulled the light out of the box and saw a lens cap and “Jaxman” written on the tube. YAY
What a light! And so glad I could see how it works right away.
Wauw! Just wauw
This oozes quality.
Zoomed at any level and no rattle to hear or feel when shaken hard.
It has immediately earned a place next to the S70 at hand for checking the grounds.
Love this light and will keep it stock, now for the host that will be made with another LED and driver then the XML2 NW and stock driver in this one. This one I do not dare to open, the dust free underside of the lens after it being assembled good must remain so!
The mailman (well actually a women ) brought a box.
Yellow heavy tape all around.
Inside was a small white simple box and sone stuff to fill it.
When opening a mat anodised tail was visible.
I pulled the light out of the box and saw a lens cap and “Jaxman” written on the tube. YAY
What a light! And so glad I could see how it works right away.
Wauw! Just wauw
This oozes quality.
Zoomed at any level and no rattle to hear or feel when shaken hard.
It has immediately earned a place next to the S70 at hand for checking the grounds.
Love this light and will keep it stock, now for the host that will be made with another LED and driver then the XML2 NW and stock driver in this one. This one I do not dare to open, the dust free underside of the lens after it being assembled good must remain so!
Now imagine that light with a good XPL HI, TK’s Bistro UI and lit tailcap…imagine what a light that’d be….
^ buy the Z1 host (when it is available again) and transfer the innards of the “pipebomb” into the original host.
That thought has been playing inside my mind for so many times ever since the Z1 host groupbuy started.
Yes that is exactly what I plan on doing lionhart and akhyar
But this one stays stock for now, still looking for nice soft gloves for handling lenses and refelctors.
Maybe when those are in I will mod this stock Z1 (because one of those BIG leds MTG2/XHPxx in the Z1 sounds pretty sweet too!)
Would be cool to 1 on 1 compare the stock XML2 NW vs the cool BLF parts (Bistro XPL HI NW tailcap) of the pipebomb
I’m also interested in the stock Z1 with XHP50 emitter, but only when using 2× 26350 batteries as I’m not fond of the extended length of 2× 26650 as I do find the size of the “pipebomb” feels just nice in the hand.
But so far only one member has tested the Z1 XHP50 with 2× 26350 and his initial impressions on the config is not that impressive, so I’m reading this thread on what are the options available
^ buy the Z1 host (when it is available again) and transfer the innards of the “pipebomb” into the original host.
That thought has been playing inside my mind for so many times ever since the Z1 host groupbuy started.
See? You’ve started! You wanna be an Amateur in training, which leads to becoming a professional. You can make it a connoisseur act, flashlights with wine and cheese, ahh, the good life! Light up the castle and throw grapes at it…
FX35 and xhp35 P2 1C Sinkpad using single Thorfire 5000 protected: lux; 118 / 669 l/h/strobe; converted same parameters as OP lumen 551 / 3124. Focus just short of. Yellow dot center. Yellow ring outer. offtopic: I am eyeing, budget permitting, a mirrorless Sony A6000. Very aware that pics are mandatory. Any thoughts?
Fresh 4.2v BASEN 4000 checked at 583.72 and 3203.49 a difference of plus 31-32 lm on low and plus 79 lm on high. The order is h/l/st. Seems quite consistant for a 1A (1.5A max) driver. The mtn 22mm 4s was ordered 2.5A (NTE 4A led)
My XHP-35 at 2.89A is making 2300 lumens, wonder why your numbers and mine are so divergent? I’m using 4 18650’s on the second one, 4 18500’s on the first one, both are running modified led4power LD-2 drivers.
The 2.89A one is a MaxToch Shooter 2X, amps measured at the emitter.
I’m also interested in the stock Z1 with XHP50 emitter, but only when using 2× 26350 batteries as I’m not fond of the extended length of 2× 26650 as I do find the size of the “pipebomb” feels just nice in the hand.
But so far only one member has tested the Z1 XHP50 with 2× 26350 and his initial impressions on the config is not that impressive, so I’m reading this thread on what are the options available
I did resistor mod in the meantime. It doubled the tailcap Amperes and got the light A LOTBRIGHTER!
Hi, I did the resistor mod on the stock Z1 XHP50! As I only had a R100 at hand this was added to the original R150, giving a total of 0.06 Ohm instead of 0.15 Ohm on high.
Will that location be real obvious when I look at the driver?
The only input I can give is driver design differences. Without tearing it down I do remember he swapped the coil to small fine wire wrapped sealed type versus coilcraft (4s). The FX uses a huge coil (coilcraft type clone) 1R0 111 TB9. I’m looking at the 111 as a ratio. The 4s mtn I recall a very large R050 installed. Sorry I can’t be of help. I don’t know.
Will that location be real obvious when I look at the driver?
I took a picture for you where you can see the stacked resistors. There are one R150 and one R160 side by side, the R150 has my added R100 sitting on top
—
"A black bulb which, when switched on, turns the room dark"
(Gyro Gearloose)
I’m ordering a MTN Max buck driver (2.5A) to run an XHP-35 hi in this light, but I’m torn on which driver program to order.
The guppydrv is what the cats meow, but it doesn’t come with low voltage protection, not that I ever run my cells down too far, but with 4S unprotected it might be wise.
That leaves me with MTN standard moon, low, med, hi, or custom, not sure which way to go. I don’t really think moon is that applicable to this light though.
With guppydrv, I can set the turbo timer myself, but with the MTN standard, I’ll have to preselect, which is another dilemma since I have no idea how this light handles the heat.
Good idea TheMiller
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
I'm not innocent in all this as well
. Might have mis-interpreted things, specially considering I'm a big fan of the Z1 and very impressed by the overall quality of the Jaxman lights.
If it’s an issue, it’s an issue. 1970’s era Ford Pinto’s blow up when they’re rear-ended. It’s not slander, or meant to be offensive, it’s the truth. If your light had an issue, let’s discuss it and try to resolve the problem. Which it did. Jaxman started his own thread talking about machining of the pills, so he is now aware of the potential issue (even though I think yours was the only one that appeared to be way off spec).
The Z1 isn’t a completely flawless light, and the price tag reflects that. So there are going to be issues that are discussed. Which is why I started the thread.
K - I feel little better now
. I think it's actually good that this is the only thing we can point out.
Sweeping the negatives under the rug, like the other thread had a bad habit of, doesn’t solve anything. Let’s put all of our heads together and solve the problem!
Having said all of that, I think everyone would agree that the positives WAY outweigh the negatives of the Z1. It’s an amazing light!
FWIW , nw Cometa (a 3B supposedly ?) on the left, Brynite B158 modded with a 3C on the right, the 3C looks very nice and neutral (to me) in real life.
Reworked the 4s mtn version to 20mm noctigon xhp35 d4 5k. 4× 26350 16.8v two tube. Excellent focus and major improvement over the single tube FX35 single 26650. lux actual: l/m/h/t 63, 396, 486, 980. Conversion: Area in Sq Ft, Sp rad 2 /ft, Surface 50.265,,,,numbers lumen 292, 1849, 2269, 4576. Will do comparison FX later. Thoughts: Excellent for everyday use h/m/l with occasional turbo when needed approx one minute as heat builds. No additional heatsink added. Used kaptan on base of cover. Added adhesive insulator to back of cover centered. Added round plastic centering ring resting on noctigon around led with cover at one and one half threads in. Outside no tint shift noticed. More later. …and I wished I had pics too.
You wished ypu had pics? Well you’re not alone!
Paul needs a couple of days before he can respond in depth to my proposal of a simpler way for BLFers to get this host.
I asked him to do it either just 1 at the time (so somebody wants a host and gets a PM how to get it the same day) or collect more.
The first way would not take a lot of time and could be done during busy times since it is not 25/50/100 orders at once.
He did not reject now but asked for some time to write a good answer. Report back when hearing more.
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
The mailman (well actually a women
) brought a box.
Yellow heavy tape all around.
Inside was a small white simple box and sone stuff to fill it.
When opening a mat anodised tail was visible.
I pulled the light out of the box and saw a lens cap and “Jaxman” written on the tube.
YAY
What a light! And so glad I could see how it works right away.
Wauw! Just wauw
This oozes quality.
Zoomed at any level and no rattle to hear or feel when shaken hard.
It has immediately earned a place next to the S70 at hand for checking the grounds.
Love this light and will keep it stock, now for the host that will be made with another LED and driver then the XML2 NW and stock driver in this one. This one I do not dare to open, the dust free underside of the lens after it being assembled good must remain so!
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
Now imagine that light with a good XPL HI, TK’s Bistro UI and lit tailcap…imagine what a light that’d be….
^ buy the Z1 host (when it is available again) and transfer the innards of the “pipebomb” into the original host.
That thought has been playing inside my mind for so many times ever since the Z1 host groupbuy started.
Yes that is exactly what I plan on doing lionhart and akhyar
But this one stays stock for now, still looking for nice soft gloves for handling lenses and refelctors.
Maybe when those are in I will mod this stock Z1 (because one of those BIG leds MTG2/XHPxx in the Z1 sounds pretty sweet too!)
Would be cool to 1 on 1 compare the stock XML2 NW vs the cool BLF parts (Bistro XPL HI NW tailcap) of the pipebomb
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
I’m also interested in the stock Z1 with XHP50 emitter, but only when using 2× 26350 batteries as I’m not fond of the extended length of 2× 26650 as I do find the size of the “pipebomb” feels just nice in the hand.
But so far only one member has tested the Z1 XHP50 with 2× 26350 and his initial impressions on the config is not that impressive, so I’m reading this thread on what are the options available
Not everyone on here is a modder unfortunately:-(
A Professional is a trained Amateur.
Everybody starts somewhere, right?
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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No sorry
An amateur practices till he gets it right
A professional practices till he gets it right all the time
This makes me a wannabe amateur
It is done when it is done
How my BLF Specials generally work, please read before asking Qs
The Q8, Exciting a groupbuy for a Premium BLF special high lumens soda can light!
The GT, A BLF special GIGA thrower
The FW3A, a TLF BLF special small, elegant, powerful triple
Lithium Ion safety 101 important read
Sorry grammarlovers, I am a real King Typo.
See? You’ve started! You wanna be an Amateur in training, which leads to becoming a professional. You can make it a connoisseur act, flashlights with wine and cheese, ahh, the good life! Light up the castle and throw grapes at it…
FX35 and xhp35 P2 1C Sinkpad using single Thorfire 5000 protected: lux; 118 / 669 l/h/strobe; converted same parameters as OP lumen 551 / 3124. Focus just short of. Yellow dot center. Yellow ring outer. offtopic: I am eyeing, budget permitting, a mirrorless Sony A6000. Very aware that pics are mandatory. Any thoughts?
A single protected cell for a boost circuit, sounds like you’d be better off with an unprotected high discharge cell.
Will change cell to BASEN unprotected. Thanks for the input.
Fresh 4.2v BASEN 4000 checked at 583.72 and 3203.49 a difference of plus 31-32 lm on low and plus 79 lm on high. The order is h/l/st. Seems quite consistant for a 1A (1.5A max) driver. The mtn 22mm 4s was ordered 2.5A (NTE 4A led)
My XHP-35 at 2.89A is making 2300 lumens, wonder why your numbers and mine are so divergent? I’m using 4 18650’s on the second one, 4 18500’s on the first one, both are running modified led4power LD-2 drivers.
The 2.89A one is a MaxToch Shooter 2X, amps measured at the emitter.
Well strictly speaking a professional is someone who gets paid whether they’re well trained or now
I did resistor mod in the meantime. It doubled the tailcap Amperes and got the light A LOT BRIGHTER!
Look here for more information: Z1 resistor mod
"A black bulb which, when switched on, turns the room dark"
(Gyro Gearloose)
Will that location be real obvious when I look at the driver?
The only input I can give is driver design differences. Without tearing it down I do remember he swapped the coil to small fine wire wrapped sealed type versus coilcraft (4s). The FX uses a huge coil (coilcraft type clone) 1R0 111 TB9. I’m looking at the 111 as a ratio. The 4s mtn I recall a very large R050 installed. Sorry I can’t be of help. I don’t know.
I took a picture for you where you can see the stacked resistors. There are one R150 and one R160 side by side, the R150 has my added R100 sitting on top
"A black bulb which, when switched on, turns the room dark"
(Gyro Gearloose)
Thank you for the picture…and lol at “Gyro Gearloose”
I’m ordering a MTN Max buck driver (2.5A) to run an XHP-35 hi in this light, but I’m torn on which driver program to order.
The guppydrv is what the cats meow, but it doesn’t come with low voltage protection, not that I ever run my cells down too far, but with 4S unprotected it might be wise.
That leaves me with MTN standard moon, low, med, hi, or custom, not sure which way to go. I don’t really think moon is that applicable to this light though.
With guppydrv, I can set the turbo timer myself, but with the MTN standard, I’ll have to preselect, which is another dilemma since I have no idea how this light handles the heat.
Any thoughts?
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