Just got the CL1H V4 with T6 3C neutral white (5000k). Very nice host...something like 1 level above Solarforce L2X, perfect HA. P60 pill does not have visible PWM...will check what's the freq later. As expected, 3C tint has a wee bit of green in the lowest mode, same tint as Xeno E03 NW.
See how it does with my DBS V3 aspheric (change out the R2)
It takes ~ 1.2A on a freshly charged 18650 and ~1.45A from my 18350 BIO IMRs.
Swapped out this XM-L T6 3C pill to my DBS V3 aspheric, i got 678 @ 8.17m = 45k. Times 1.1 to factor in meter under-reading = 49k.
Could not really find the PWM freq as it's difficult to get a steady reading (could not really clip to the host body)....varying between 12-19kHz.
double sided AR lens, passes 98.5% light. Very nice! (UCL already 4 bucks + 2 bucks shipping)
3C tint on full power is very nice, absolutely white with no hint of blue. But on mid/low is not so nice.
This is a really nice P60 drop-in. Surprisingly the heat transfer is not that bad, it does press down hard to contact with the host on a horizontal ledge, it seems that the host and drop in are made for each other. $54 shipped with tracking for the host + drop-in is decent. You pay slightly more for nice mid and low mode with no PWM, neutral white option, and very nice host. The tailcap is beefier than Jetbeam/Fenix. The lumens do not dive straight down (nearly 40%) like in my Solarforce hosts with Ultrafire drop-in. If you want a quality light but can't bring yourself to pay for a Fenix TK21, this is it!
So what's your idea of a special flashlight, perhaps share the specs/pricing.... Solarforce? (though they are too fun to ignore and i probably have too many of them, they are definitely not on the same level). This is not just an interchangeable P60 thingy but across the whole platform, and it so happens that the DBS and CL1H series got upgraded so the prices are pretty good. The 3C just came out. The DBS V3 was/is known to be one of the best throwers in this class of 45mm head diameter, doing 27k cd. (eg C8/UF-980L, which it would easily out throw)
The lights are supposed to be very mechanically sound....though not much info and no torture tests.
Just noticed that Alan sent me the new 2MT-M (I ordered the old-school 3SM actually), printed at the spring area. Supposed to be 2 mode, general mode = low/mid/high, tactical mode = full power. (useful for signalling/morse code etc).
This 2MT-M or 2MT-S is supposed to be used in the new CL1H-T model (66 bucks), more like very minor cosmetic change for the host)
Probably they are using this new driver for the T3 warm white or T6 3C neutral white
Edit - 2MT-M dual function can only work with the new T body, not the V4. Probably like how the Fandyfire STL-V6/Sky Ray STL-V2 dual mode work.
This is the difference between a high quality drop-in and a budget drop-in.
The ubiquitous and well-received Ultrafire XM-L P60 cold-white. Wrapped with aluminum foil and some heatsink compound - everything is nice and tight, the drop-in sits in the host and does not pop out. After 2 minutes and still at about 3.3A (as measured with tailcap in the circuit = 35 lux or about 350 lumens OTF. In a L2X host. Initially 58 lux @ 1st second.
Dereelight CL1H V4 with 3SM XM-L. After 2 minutes, 48 lux or about 480 lumens OTF. Initially 62 lux @ 1st second. And get this, this is in neutral white, bone stock and not wrapped with aluminum foil. :D
Surprising find. Apparently the external spring makes all the difference, the Dereelight does not have that external spring, and the drop in makes good contact with the host this way. (no thermal compound there) Also the slightly over driven nature of the UF doesn't help things. (pls don't even think of driving it past 4A helps things, even the DRY does not benefit)
I guess the LED junction in the pill plays a part as well.
No… that’s the difference between a very reasonably driven (or most would say underdriven) p60 and a direct drive madman p60. I’ve had 2 DBS and the Dereelights are no nicer than a new Solarforce.(minus a $2 piece of glass). Unless they’ve changed, the placement of the o-ring a make it very hard to thread on the tailcap without concentrating on it.
I do feel my DBS and CL1H are significantly nicer than the L2Ps, like the clips are actually screwed-on and the threads are anodised (L2P/L2X/all the HAs in Solarforce are not)....but the L2X and MPP-1 are very nearly on par. (the CL1H has everything thicker, head + tail)
I lost track of how many Solarforces strewn around the house though.... LOL! (definitely > 10)....so i'll give the blue and gold ones a pass for now. My S8 tailcap takes the heft crown, better than any Jetbeam/Fenix but the Balder BD-4 can put up a good fight. (that light is crazy, 420 grams...vs 275g of say a Sunwayman T40CS).
I'll see if i can get the cells down to a lower voltage and repeat the test soon. Then we'll know the LED junction performance of the Ultrafire.
Not much issue screwing on the caps on the Dereelights here, i got both this year.
The dereelight is not underdriven, believe it's 1.4 plus amps with 2 cells. Same league as the STL-V2/T40CS/BD-4 etc....
And yeah, one more thing, the HA in Solarforce tends to be slightly mismatched in colour....but i guess can't help it from different batches for the bodies/tailcaps.
I have repeated the test with a lower current, at about 3.1A down to 2.8A. No go, still 350 +/- lumens and actually i did up to 4 mins and it was like 330.
I got an idea and decided to acid test the Yezl M7X. This is a P60 light kind of size, but extremely hefty and it is not a drop-in. 2 mins discharge at 3.3A with TF Flames thereabouts to warm it up. Then used an overcharged Sanyo 2600 (these buggers are even crazier than the Panny 2900/3100 that i have, they get over 5A in the Ultrafire drop-in and can probably damage it) and discharged it at 4A - 3.7A. At the end of 2 mins at this high discharge, i am still getting 58 lux or about 580 lumens OTF. Initial was 660.
