these should work with that new hex die nichia?
if so these will be a hot commodity.
They do work and I tested that they work well (though not as good as the VirEnce board), but it requires scraping off some solder mask to widen the solder pads.
But for the slow among us (me included) can you add a list of the LEDs that fit this board to your original post?
and maybe compare to the (what is it?) xp? series noctagon copper bards that we would otherwise need to use.
—
(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)
But for the slow among us (me included) can you add a list of the LEDs that fit this board to your original post?
and maybe compare to the (what is it?) xp? series noctagon copper bards that we would otherwise need to use.
A DTP board will always heatsink better than the board from the OP, but only work with leds that have a (neutral) central solder pad.
The OP board fits all leds that have just two solder pads for cathod and anode without central solder pad. And there is not so many leds that fit it that are interesting in flashlights, it is an obscure board!: almost all midpower leds have the two pads but are too dim for flashlights, a series of Nichia UV leds fits this board, Luxeon Z fits it, and with some scraping the Nichia 144A series fits it.
Maybe it’s not (only) the dielectric layer that is better than usual, but it may well be (judging by the picture) that the copper layer on top is thicker than usual.
Quote:
Note that it is labeled ‘Cree’ while I’m not aware that there are Cree’s with this footprint
I was thinking XQ-E, but they’re probably too small for that.
Maybe it’s not (only) the dielectric layer that is better than usual, but it may well be (judging by the picture) that the copper layer on top is thicker than usual.
Quote:
Note that it is labeled ‘Cree’ while I’m not aware that there are Cree’s with this footprint
I was thinking XQ-E, but they’re probably too small for that.
…and the gap between the solder pads is smaller so there is more copper directly under the center of the led. (I did not ask specifically for an extra thick copper layer, and have to look up what thickness I actually got)
dunno, I can weigh one when I’m home, why do you ask?
I mean, the djozz board versus the generic board. I know the copper core weighs more than the aluminum one. I’m wondering how much difference there is. Just curious.
—
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I’m sorry Lexel, lots of things going on on BLF today, and then there is a life too (work, shopping, making dinner, reading book to my son, comforting him later at night when he wakes up with bad dream).
I will go through my PM’s now.
Sorry for the long wait Lexel, finally replied your PM.
(for doing practical work on the hobby I have monday exclusively atm, busy with work, family and St. Nicolaas festivities, just catching up with hobby administration today)
I used these MCPCB’s to test a nichia 229AT today. The results were surprisingly good. It beat out the 219C all the way up to 4.5A when the lack of a thermal pad and DTP caught up with it.
They have the lowest Vf I have seen to date as well!
Say what? Got a link?
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
here you go. But with 319A, there’s no need for a special board, normal dtp sinkpad or noctigon with for xp footprint.
They do work and I tested that they work well (though not as good as the VirEnce board), but it requires scraping off some solder mask to widen the solder pads.
link to djozz tests
I take 2 boards to germany
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
djozz,
They seem like the work just fine.
But for the slow among us (me included) can you add a list of the LEDs that fit this board to your original post?
and maybe compare to the (what is it?) xp? series noctagon copper bards that we would otherwise need to use.
(“It’s good that most people can’t remember their previous lives. Otherwise
things would be a lot more complicated than they already are.”
Ajaan Lee Dhammadharo)
A DTP board will always heatsink better than the board from the OP, but only work with leds that have a (neutral) central solder pad.
The OP board fits all leds that have just two solder pads for cathod and anode without central solder pad. And there is not so many leds that fit it that are interesting in flashlights, it is an obscure board!: almost all midpower leds have the two pads but are too dim for flashlights, a series of Nichia UV leds fits this board, Luxeon Z fits it, and with some scraping the Nichia 144A series fits it.
link to djozz tests
Maybe it’s not (only) the dielectric layer that is better than usual, but it may well be (judging by the picture) that the copper layer on top is thicker than usual.
I was thinking XQ-E, but they’re probably too small for that.…and the gap between the solder pads is smaller so there is more copper directly under the center of the led. (I did not ask specifically for an extra thick copper layer, and have to look up what thickness I actually got)
link to djozz tests
djozz, it may not be that you got an extra thick copper layer, but that they made that other one cheap, with an extra thin copper layer.
Edit: What is the weight of each board?
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
dunno, I can weigh one when I’m home, why do you ask?
link to djozz tests
Maybe normal is extra thin..
I mean, the djozz board versus the generic board. I know the copper core weighs more than the aluminum one. I’m wondering how much difference there is. Just curious.
The Cycle of Goodness: “No one prospers without rendering benefit to others”
- The YKK Philosophy
I like to get one or two but I get no response
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Hey djozz I’d like to get two of these.
I would like to get 2pcs of them. Please ship together with the Nichia 219C & 144A.
Thanks!
I’m sorry Lexel, lots of things going on on BLF today, and then there is a life too (work, shopping, making dinner, reading book to my son, comforting him later at night when he wakes up with bad dream).
I will go through my PM’s now.
link to djozz tests
I wrote you two messages, just give me a price and paypal I add shipping info to paypal transaction
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Djozz is very busy lately in part due to the 219C group buy, I am sure he will get to you as soon as possible.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Sorry for the long wait Lexel, finally replied your PM.
(for doing practical work on the hobby I have monday exclusively atm, busy with work, family and St. Nicolaas festivities, just catching up with hobby administration today)
link to djozz tests
Still have some you’d like to sell?
Yes sure, still have most of them..
link to djozz tests
PM’d you.
4 for me, please. PM follows.
I’m in need of a couple. I’ll send a pm
I used these MCPCB’s to test a nichia 229AT today. The results were surprisingly good. It beat out the 219C all the way up to 4.5A when the lack of a thermal pad and DTP caught up with it.
They have the lowest Vf I have seen to date as well!
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/53770
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I take 2 as well to germany
PM me for pricing and paypal
Sent a message also for one board.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Hi djozz, i’ve PM’d you for two boards.
I had my Nichia 365nm LED in the Convoy run to long on the stock MCPCB it has lost brightness on parts of the emitter, 700mA are not good
Too bad I did not had this board from the beginning
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Could I get 2 of these shipped to the UK?
About to order my first S2+ UV, and a reflow onto one of these seems advisable!
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