New Convoy C8 – Clearly better

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renton83
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Just ordered the C8 clear from Simon and anxiously waiting for shipment. I think it’s cool people here have direct constact with sellers and can vouche for the good ones.

JasonWW
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DB Custom wrote:
Jason, just looking at the wattage isn’t the whole picture.

I was just giving a simplistic reason why one was hotter than the other for gmajnkek as he might be new here. Thanks for the info, though.

I’m curious how a C8 with xpl hi and fet driver would do against that Klarus. Probably very close in lumens and throw.

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WalkIntoTheLight
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JasonWW wrote:
I’m curious how a C8 with xpl hi and fet driver would do against that Klarus. Probably very close in lumens and throw.

I recently did a review of the Astrolux C8, which is exactly a C8 with an XPL HI and FET driver.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57800

Basically, it’s 1300 lumens and 100,000 candella.

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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

Basically, it’s 1300 lumens and 100,000 candella.

That’s 640 meters.

The xhp35-HI has a 2.35mm x 2.35mm die and the xpl hi has a 1.95mm x 1.95mm die.

So if you put both these lights side by side, they should be equally bright, but the Klarus would have a slightly larger hot spot. In theory at least.

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DB Custom wrote:
Jason, just looking at the wattage isn’t the whole picture. The efficiency of the emitter at a given output will change how much of the applied wattage is light and how much is heat. When overclocking the percentage of heat/light changes. So which one is overdriven will tell which one is making more heat. In the case of a 1600 lumen XHP-35 vs XP-L at 900 lumens, they are both in their comfort zones and shouldn’t be getting all that hot… the boost circuit in the Klarus is probably making the heat directly from the driver.

And to establish wattage, forward voltage at the applied current needs to be known, it changes as the current changes. The XHP-35 goes up to some 14.3V when pushed at 2.5A, gotta have actual emitter Voltage at the applied amperage to know the wattage.

An example is my 18V Cree COB in the small DQG Tiny 7x XP-G2 light. At 1A the COB is pulling 21V for 2004 lumens. That would be 21 watts. Yet the small light doesn’t really get hot until quite a bit of time has gone by, so the efficiency is high and most of the wattage is burned as light out the front.


This is one of the reasons I’m glad Dale is my friend. Big Smile Him say smart stuff. Grad
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Not smart, necessarily, because my memory is so bad I quite often mix information… getting it wrong. But some of the stuff sticks through sheer repetition. Lol
The efficiency issue really comes to play in a light like the Emisar D4…small quad with little thermal mass. A set of hard driven XP-G2’s put’s out a lot of heat as compared to a set of XP-L HI’s that aren’t being driven as hard.

WalkIntoTheLight
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JasonWW wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:

Basically, it’s 1300 lumens and 100,000 candella.

That’s 640 meters.

The xhp35-HI has a 2.35mm x 2.35mm die and the xpl hi has a 1.95mm x 1.95mm die.

So if you put both these lights side by side, they should be equally bright, but the Klarus would have a slightly larger hot spot. In theory at least.

If they can be equally focused, I suppose.

I don’t find the C8 hotspot to be too small, but I wouldn’t want it any tighter. A bit larger would be good, although at the cost of reduced runtime.

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I see this clear version C8 XPL-HI has a DTP copper MCPCB, can someone tell me if the Black version C8 XPL-HI also has DTP copper MCPCB?
Here’s some links for the one I’m asking about:

From Gearbest:
https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_356677.html

From Simon:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Convoy-C8-with-XPL-HI-LED

 

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Since October I ordered a lot of black XP-L HI C8-s from gearbest, banggood and 5 from Simon and all had DTP copper MCPCB.
Even the 2100mA versions from banggood.

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Since October I ordered a lot of black XP-L HI C8-s from gearbest, banggood and 5 from Simon and all had DTP copper MCPCB.
Even the 2100mA versions from banggood.
Great thanks!

 

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I am completely puzzled – my brand new Convoy C8 XP-L HI w/ Biscotti is set in such a way that it every few seconds lowers it’s light output until it turns off, regardless of which mode I set it to and I don’t know why.
I use the group with 5 modes and if I, for example, set it to 5th, it will after few seconds shift to 4th, then 3rd and so on until it goes completely off. Any ideas what’s the issue here?

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sith_lord wrote:
I am completely puzzled – my brand new Convoy C8 XP-L HI w/ Biscotti is set in such a way that it every few seconds lowers it’s light output until it turns off, regardless of which mode I set it to and I don’t know why.
I use the group with 5 modes and if I, for example, set it to 5th, it will after few seconds shift to 4th, then 3rd and so on until it goes completely off. Any ideas what’s the issue here?

Your battery is empty. Wink
renton83
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If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.

sith_lord
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Well I’ll be damned, you are right…
I just got Lii-500 and was testing my batteries. In NOR test it has three steps (fully: discharge, then charge and measure capacity, then discharge again) and I missed the last part where it discharges the battery again. Big Smile
It was well past midnight (more like 5 am) while I was reading the manual and was putting the batteries to test, and later that day I just figured it’d stay fully charged – what a rookie mistake! Big Smile

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At least you know that your battery protection is works in your light Big Smile

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Agreed! Thumbs Up

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sith_lord wrote:
Well I’ll be damned, you are right… I just got Lii-500 and was testing my batteries. In NOR test it has three steps (fully: discharge, then charge and measure capacity, then discharge again) and I missed the last part where it discharges the battery again. Big Smile It was well past midnight (more like 5 am) while I was reading the manual and was putting the batteries to test, and later that day I just figured it’d stay fully charged – what a rookie mistake! Big Smile

my Lii-500 in NOR mode does the opposite, charges, then discharges and measures capacity, then fully charges again.

I did notice however the manual says, discharge – charge – discharge, but after using NOR test over 10 times i can say for sure it will charge – discharge – charge.

take note of the ‘end’ word on the screen. if it is blinking it is charging, if its solid it has charged fully and completed the NOR (normal) test.

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DoNkEyConN wrote:
my Lii-500 in NOR mode does the opposite, charges, then discharges and measures capacity, then fully charges again.

take note of the ‘end’ word on the screen. if it is blinking it is charging, if its solid it has charged fully and completed the NOR (normal) test.


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Perhaps not the most favorite C8 mod, but I like an orange peel reflector with the big MT-G2 and it’s beautiful creamy white color tint for close-up work. A diffusion film or a frosted lens can make it pure flood, or leave the reflector out completely and glue the lens in place for the ultimate artifact free flood….. mule configuration.

This does require a Zener mod to an FET driver and the use of 2 18350 cells, but I like the result. YMMV

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renton83 wrote:
If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.

DC-Fix it !

PM member Boaz for some help with your situation . Hat Beer

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WalkIntoTheLight
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jacktheclipper wrote:
renton83 wrote:
If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.

DC-Fix it !

Yup, or if you have an old laptop or smart phone (or TV) you’re going to throw out, use its diffuser film:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rx4OzbKZhPY

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DB Custom wrote:


All that fuss….
Maybe i’m a thicko, could be…
But i really like the Convoy LD25 driver.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-LD25-Flashlight-c...
It’s a 3 mode (plus double click for strobe) FET CC driver without PWM for the low and medium modes.
It fits easily and works like a charm.
Should work longer on full output with a XP-L HI because of the lower voltage drop (compared to 7135 drivers).
Jerommel
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
renton83 wrote:
If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.

DC-Fix it !

Yup, or if you have an old laptop or smart phone (or TV) you’re going to throw out, use its diffuser film:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rx4OzbKZhPY


Good advise!
I got 2 sheets from my old laptop screen.
One is like 5° diffusion, the other is like 30° (both are my guesstimates).
The trick is to glue it on the back of the lens with a thin layer of (for example) Kafuter UV curing glass glue.
Glueing it eliminates the losses you get when the light travels from diffuser sheet to air to lens, because the refraction index of the glue is similar to the glass and / or the sheet.
WalkIntoTheLight
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Jerommel wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
renton83 wrote:
If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.

DC-Fix it !

Yup, or if you have an old laptop or smart phone (or TV) you’re going to throw out, use its diffuser film:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rx4OzbKZhPY


Good advise!
I got 2 sheets from my old laptop screen.
One is like 5° diffusion, the other is like 30° (both are my guesstimates).
The trick is to glue it on the back of the lens with a thin layer of (for example) Kafuter UV curing glass glue.
Glueing it eliminates the losses you get when the light travels from diffuser sheet to air to lens, because the refraction index of the glue is similar to the glass and / or the sheet.

That’s good advice. However, I didn’t want something permanent just yet, so I just press it against the glass and use some tape to hold it in place. Yes, it likely does leave an air gap which decreases efficiency, but it still gives pretty-good results overall.

Jerommel
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WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
Jerommel wrote:
WalkIntoTheLight wrote:
jacktheclipper wrote:
renton83 wrote:
If I wanted to use the clear C8 as more flood light for close work what would be the best way to do it? I see some use frosted glass lenses but wouldn’t a textured lens be even better? I know OP reflectors can help some but I don’t think it would make a huge difference.

DC-Fix it !

Yup, or if you have an old laptop or smart phone (or TV) you’re going to throw out, use its diffuser film:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rx4OzbKZhPY


Good advise!
I got 2 sheets from my old laptop screen.
One is like 5° diffusion, the other is like 30° (both are my guesstimates).
The trick is to glue it on the back of the lens with a thin layer of (for example) Kafuter UV curing glass glue.
Glueing it eliminates the losses you get when the light travels from diffuser sheet to air to lens, because the refraction index of the glue is similar to the glass and / or the sheet.

That’s good advice. However, I didn’t want something permanent just yet, so I just press it against the glass and use some tape to hold it in place. Yes, it likely does leave an air gap which decreases efficiency, but it still gives pretty-good results overall.


Yeah, of course first try if you like it.
I have 3 lights i did with the 5° stuff, and i liked it enough to do it permanently with Kafuter glass glue.
The glue is also very handy for fixing a TIR optic in a bezel by the way.
renton83
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I like the idea of turning the light into a mule by just removing the reflector. Not sure about the DC fix thing as I don’t want it marking up the lens

WalkIntoTheLight
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renton83 wrote:
I like the idea of turning the light into a mule by just removing the reflector. Not sure about the DC fix thing as I don’t want it marking up the lens

The problem I find with mules is that they cast very harsh shadows. The LED is so tiny. I just don’t like the look of the light on things.

With diffuser film, it softens the shadows quite a bit. Makes things look much nicer.

JasonWW
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If you go mule you’ll need to glue the emitter down since the reflector is what usually does that.

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Jerommel
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Convoy C8 is supposed to have screws that hold the LED board.

JasonWW
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Jerommel wrote:
Convoy C8 is supposed to have screws that hold the LED board.

The screws you see down there are for anti-rotation. They are not for downward pressure.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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