Here’s the curious thing, with the decrease of voltage the current should not to higher?
I dont have lux meter to read the output (wich really matters) but in ceiling bounce the difference is big :weary:
I tought this was pink samy’s 26f fault and I almost wrote on those “weak bitches” and throw away thinking they giving up and cant standing the current with low voltage, but liitokala makes the same….
So, this light have this caracteristc or faulty? in medium/high mode the output is not smooth, varies a lot like if where a poor contact
No it shouldn’t be actually when using a buck driver.
The driver increases input current as input voltage drops to maintain the same output current as when the input voltage was higher and the
input current was lower.
At certain input voltage it cannot do that anymore, but you adding a DMM in series and reading this current should be adding a bit of extra
resistance to the circuit also, like for example with lower resistance the input current at 4.2Vin should be lower than what you have
measured, so not 4.8A, but more like 4.6A. (some report 4.65A for example with a clamp meter)
Again that is an example of how it works not what actual numbers you should have.
Other can chime in with their actual numbers.
Yes there is a fat ring driver side and a small in the tail
It worries me that there is not consistency on any mode.
Basic troubleshooting would be:
Check retainer rings
Check cells
Check threads and clean contact points of the tube (so also the threads)
You have done the first two and if I am not mistaken had some problems with you Liitokala cells, no plastic fragments/shavings in the tube/threads?
Hikelite, thanks for explanation I will check again with a clamp to comprove the currents and tell again
Miller, I did check with a plier for elastic rings/washers and I tightened more the switch and driver, wipe and lubed the threads again and seems fixed the inconsistence in lowers output, the turbo mode did not vary….
The batteries isn’t the problem, I’ve tested with 3 (BAK 2000mah notebook, those pink bitches 26f and those 26650) the same!
But some made me very sad, I tested liitokalla until the red light blink and I didin’t believe thats turbo mode and thinking its a something “created” by my imagination I tested the charged ones too to comprove………… I almost could hear the light makes WHAMMMMMMM. The turbo mode with weak is under the medium mode with charges :person_facepalming:
OK
Cells OK, checked!
Threads clean, OK checked!
Retainer rings tightened OK checked
Good your inconsistent problem is gone, progress!
The S70 had a turbo step down after +/- 3 minutes you need to click side switch to enter turbo again after that.
On orange indicator light, your turbo still is lower then high with fully charged cells?
OK i am testing mine now
I know the L6 drops in brightness, that is a sign i need to charge
For the S70 however I just charge when the indicator turns red.
I did not notice a drop as bad as you describe.
Yes that is the question
Argh I got the S70 down to red flashing.
But I think my son has taken the L6 to his room so not able to swap cells.
Tomorrow I’ll do it and see if same cells but fully charged make it brighter.
OK testing now
Red light blinking on the S70 cells
Fully charged cells in the L6
S70 on turbo is less bright then L6
Cell swap
L6 is less bright the S70 and starts blinking low so only short turbo possible after it has been off for a while.
The high mode of the S70 with full cells is higher then the turbo on depleted cells.
The turbo on depleted cells in the L6 gives about the same brightness as med.
The S70 is brighter on depleted cells
But yes the brightness goes down.
I charge the S70 cells when I see the red come up.
I charge the L6 cells when it does not impress me.
)