I was about to post this in the S41S purchase thread but did not want to further garbage that thread for Freeme due to replacement heads getting issued. If you are getting a replacement, now you have something to MOD and make Better than it was.
I have Love/Hate feelings for this light.
Start with the Hate to get it out of the way…
If you are here you already know the design and assembly produces Failed emitters. I have 5 of these lights in every emitter version offered, 3 have failed. It does not matter what emitter you choose, it Could FAIL. After my first failed S41 I learned the flaws and accepted this light as nothing more than a Host. With that Mindset I still bought 4 more…
Because I Love it.
The size, looks and output of light can’t be beat. Flat Black with Copper fins is the Sexy girl we all want. The Stainless and Copper is the Sexy Girl we want but can’t afford, so you buy the S41S instead. I am not attracted to the Colored rainbow version so you can explain your attraction for yourself if you bought one and love it. But “IT” wears too much Make-Up for my tastes.
Get your minds back on topic
Original MCPCB is 20mm and the TPAD Quad will fit inside the head.
Original Optic is 22mm and there is no direct fit replacement that I know of. Yes there is the Manker 22mm offered on BG but keep in mind that is the older S41 version which is also flawed in it own ways and does not fit the Tpad Quad emitter layout.
Tpad Quad was designed to work with the 24mm OD Carclo Quad optic. You can file and sand the 24mm optic to fit. Takes time and patience though. I have done it to a previous S41 that now has XP-L HI emitters on a Tpad quad.
As I see it, there are 3 ways to go on repairing.
I will post links to Mountain Electronics LLC which is located in USA
is how I will proceed and already have parts on the way. 20mm TPAD Quad XP DTP Copper MCPCB
Choose the 4 LEDs you want and check off the reflow LED option. Also submit a note in the checkout that you want * emitters reflowed on the Tpad Quad in PARALLEL Configuration.
Read the description of the Tpad Quad to understand what version of LED will fit… Nichia 219 or Cree XP sizing, links below in option 2.
Optics choices are listed in the Tpad description also… Carclo Quad 10621 and 10623 Carclo Quad 24mm Optics are the 106 Series in this List
Again read description of the optic you choose. If you decide on a Domed XP-L emitter you will need to have checked the option to open up the optic to Fit XP-L. Not necessary for XP-L HI versions that are Factory DeDomed.
will be the cheapest way but you have to reflow your own LED emitters tot he Original board using all the other original parts.
Pick your Emitters you want to use from this listing. XP-G2 / XP-G3 / XP-E2 XP-L / XP-L HI Nichia
There are no rules that say you need to have a matching set of emitters or matching tints.
Nicree, XP-G23. XP-G3 HI :smiling_imp:
Replace only the Bad emitters or do all 4.
I have another S41 that lost 2 original Nichia 219B and I ewfloiwed (2) 219C’s to it and has been fine ever since.
is a different way to go. Option 3 of course is a Triple emitter route. Simple too because you will not need to file fit the optic and there are many options of pre-made Triple emitters on 20mm MCPCB. I have posted Pics of a test fit of Triple board and optics.
Emitters listed in option #2 have the triple selections at the top of each page linked.
Optics choices are now the Carclo 105 series also listed in the linked optics page in #2
You will need to come up with a fatter O-ring between the optic and glass to help keep the undersized 20mm Triple optic centered. You will see the O-ring under the Bezel. Find a colored/fluorescent one to ad some contrast. Otherwise these parts are a direct fit with no modifications or reflow of LED.
Of course you will need to get the defective head apart. GOOD LUCK to you and I mean that sincerely. Get it open before you buy parts.
Suggested earlier was to soak in Solvent. I would not do that, for many, many, many, many reasons.
Don’t use Carclo optics on your original S41 board.
Don’t use original optice on the TPad Quad board.
Yes you can use you original Driver or upgrade it to something better made and better choices of firmware.
Options 1&3 still use the glass over the optic as the original configuration did.
Richard has Many TPad MCPCB in stock but I hope he has more Emitters on the way to replenish some stock.
Post Questions, what you have done, what you want to do and methods of getting this #$%^ thing apart.
Suggested earlier was to soak in Solvent. I would not do that, for many, many, many, many reasons.
Yes, I agree, soaking would damage other components. Perhaps it is only necessary to add a couple of drops of penetrating oil or solvent to the interface of the head to corrupt the glue to the point it will fail. If a couple drops of solvent is used, it may be necessary to do it several times over a period of time as it evaporates. I don’t know exactly which solvent would be most effective, but lacquer thinner or acetone are the first 2 that come to mind. Both of those solvents would attack plastic, so use just a few drops.
I have 2 of these lights in my cart and I am following these threads with interest.
I go the following way: sand 1mm from the underside of the ledboard, or whatever it takes to make the optic just fit without slicing the leds, some fine-tuning is needed here. Reflow new leds and you’re good to go, with original board and optic.
Solvent is too vague. Just one of the reasons the idea is not good.
Also there is an O-ring between the copper head and the base of the Bezel. It is sealed.
Another O-ring is at the top between bezel and Glass lens. Again sealed.
Only possible way to get “solvent” in there is to remove the driver and fill the inside. Optic is technically plastic, or PMMA which contains acrylic. Glue is also (most likely) acrylic base… Any solvent that will dissolve the glue will dissolve other parts in there.
Some material can also be removed from the bottom of the optic cones where they touch the emitter base. I have started filing off the S41S optic. Still need to chamfer the edges of the emitter hole And open holes to properly fit an emitter dome. This also creates more surface area of contact, reducing the cutting of the original.
Optic on Right has been filed.
Ok, would love tips on how to crack open the head, with no damage preferably. I got one unit I need to get in to. Think someone suggested a rubber tie strap - use the rubber in pliers and/or vice, not sure. Any pics would help.
I have cracked 2 open by squeezing in a vise with rubber lined jaws. Squeeze, turn slightly, squeeze, repeat. Once cracked I could only feel a slight looseness but still could not turn. Keep twisting, tighten, loosen, tighten loosen till you get the glue to break out of threads.
Uhm… No, i mean if folks have no time or skills to do something useful with a faulty head, i would be interested in one or two.
O.T.O.H., if someone wants me to repair it and they’re not in a hurry (because i would have to order parts), i could (try to) do it free of charge for the time and effort i spend.
But i’m not gonna pay for parts and shipping.
(I was just thinking about defective heads ending up useless, would be a waste i.m.o.)
The defective head may have a better place with people that own the light and could use spare parts. I think there will be carnage trying to get them opened up. But that decision is up to the owner of the part as to where it ends up.
The S41 & S41S heads will swap onto the Astrolux S1 and BLF A6.
