Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today. I’ve been what I call a connoisseur of light for a decade or so now. My sweet spot is 5500K. I’ve just not been able to get into the neutral or warm Whites. There is only 1 incan bulb in my house. Everything else is LED 5000K or 5500K. Now I can precisely measure all of my home, car, searchlight and other lights’ color temps and the REALCRI, not just the averaged number usually quoted for marketing purposes. I’ve learned quite a bit over the last week while researching my purchase. The typical CRI number we see is the calculated average of 8 colors chosen decades ago by a Body in France, the name escapes me now. It represents how close a light source comes to the spectrum emitted by Tungsten incandescent light. CRI of Tungsten light is 100 on the CRI Scale. Extended CRI adds another 7 colors to the mix and the Sekonic 7000 meter has the capability to measure and display the additional 7 additional colors. The more color samples that are taken, the more accurate your CRI is going to be. But even CRI is a bit outdated and there have been and are processes in-motion to use another standard or two. There’s a lot more to it but i won’t get that deep. Suffice to say that below, the first 2 pics are of readings of the Sun. The first shows the Color temp in Kelvin (Tcp on the meter) of the Sun at 3:15 PM. Don’t pay attention to any of the lux reading as I did not set up for a precise Lux measurement. The next pic shows the CRI RA average calculated on only the first 8 colors in the bar graph but it also shows specific individual CRI readings from all 15 samples. The higher the bar graph and number to the left, the higher the CRI of each of the sample colors and the closer to the Tungsten standard the measured light source is.
The 3rd and 4th pics are of the same type of measurements of the GT on HIGH, not Turbo. The 5th and 6th pics are of the GT on Turbo. Notice how the R9 Red is absent from the GT and is actually a minus number.
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today.
Now that is one awesome tool. I hope you know you are now obligated to test and upload results for every light you own lol.
—
New addict -Various Maglites; Olight S Mini, S1 Mini HCRI, S2R, M1X, X7; Emisar D1 5000K, D1S 4000K, D4 219C; Astrolux S41, S42 219C, and a Gigglestick thanks to BLF!
Aluminum reflector this size and thickness,is made from single big peace of aluminium block.
After CNC machining all leftovers are being recycled..
To me, NikolaS was simply saying they were using a big CHUNK of aluminum. I did not read it as a reference to shape.
I read it as “block” = “chunk”…… nothing more.
If you search the net to purchase a “block of aluminum” google will show you nothing other than square, flat, or rectangular stock. Anyhow, I get the point…
Teacher, I would like to be on the same page here. This block or chunk of aluminium is round stock and I would assume it is being turned in a CNC lathe?
I’m curious to how this reflector is being machined. Do you or anyone know of the page this info can be found or if this information was revealed, possibly a separate thread?
Not everyone here realizes how much work and time is involved into producing such a (masterpiece) flashlight like this..!
As far as machining goes, I think we should shine some light on the subject. I think it may help ease the frustration of some of those who were unsatisfied or complaining about there reflectors finish.
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today. I’ve been what I call a connoisseur of light for a decade or so now. My sweet spot is 5500K. I’ve just not been able to get into the neutral or warm Whites. There is only 1 incan bulb in my house. Everything else is LED 5000K or 5500K. Now I can precisely measure all of my home, car, searchlight and other lights’ color temps and the REALCRI, not just the averaged number usually quoted for marketing purposes. I’ve learned quite a bit over the last week while researching my purchase. The typical CRI number we see is the calculated average of 8 colors chosen decades ago by a Body in France, the name escapes me now. It represents how close a light source comes to the spectrum emitted by Tungsten incandescent light. CRI of Tungsten light is 100 on the CRI Scale. Extended CRI adds another 7 colors to the mix and the Sekonic 7000 meter has the capability to measure and display the additional 7 additional colors. The more color samples that are taken, the more accurate your CRI is going to be. But even CRI is a bit outdated and there have been and are processes in-motion to use another standard or two. There’s a lot more to it but i won’t get that deep. Suffice to say that below, the first 2 pics are of readings of the Sun. The first shows the Color temp in Kelvin (Tcp on the meter) of the Sun at 3:15 PM. Don’t pay attention to any of the lux reading as I did not set up for a precise Lux measurement. The next pic shows the CRI RA average calculated on only the first 8 colors in the bar graph but it also shows specific individual CRI readings from all 15 samples. The higher the bar graph and number to the left, the higher the CRI of each of the sample colors and the closer to the Tungsten standard the measured light source is.
The 3rd and 4th pics are of the same type of measurements of the GT on HIGH, not Turbo. The 5th and 6th pics are of the GT on Turbo. Notice how the R9 Red is absent from the GT and is actually a minus number.
Can’t we buy the new 5700k LED already mounted without sending our old LEDs back to Richard?
Problem is, there is no LED boards in the size the GT takes available
Correct, the GT has a massive 45mm diameter mcpcb. Richard carries them up to about 27mm. Keep in mind that the Convoy L6 with its xhp70 and 9,000 lumen potential (for the 70.2 and fet driver) only uses a 20mm mcpcb.
The reason the GT needs the massive size, even though it’s only putting out 2,500 lumen, is because of the massive reflector. The base of the reflector and centering ring are quite huge by normal flashlight standards.
See the base diameter of the reflector below. Courtesy of MRsDNF (Next to C8, S2+ and P60 reflectors)
Bonus pics.
Next to a Q8.
Currently there is a 32mm maxtoch mcpcb for an xml. These can be converted to 12 volt by some cutting and soldering, but I’m still not sure it would fit.
If anyone happens to find a big 12 volt xhp35 mcpcb for sale, please post about it here.
Thanks
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Aluminum reflector this size and thickness,is made from single big peace of aluminium block.
After CNC machining all leftovers are being recycled..
I doubt that.
I assume they get rough casts in reflector shape and then machine it.
Otherwise it would be a huge waste of aluminium, time, energy and tools.
Sure they recycle the machined off aluminium, but recycling those bits with machine oil and surface oxidation into the same quality alloy is costly too.
Aluminum reflector this size and thickness,is made from single big peace of aluminium block.
After CNC machining all leftovers are being recycled..
I doubt that.
I assume they get rough casts in reflector shape and then machine it.
Otherwise it would be a huge waste of aluminium, time, energy and tools.
Sure they recycle the machined off aluminium, but recycling those bits with machine oil and surface oxidation into the same quality alloy is costly too.
I think you would be surprised how quickly the modern CNC machine can carve up a big chunk of aluminum. I’m almost positive it’s quicker and cheaper to do it this way as opposed to using a forge and melting down aluminum then making castings which are going to end up not perfectly round for the lathe to grab ahold of.
Recycling the massive left overs is quite easy. It just gets shipped off. The place doing the machining doesn’t have to deal with it.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Aluminum reflector this size and thickness,is made from single big peace of aluminium block.
After CNC machining all leftovers are being recycled..
I doubt that.
I assume they get rough casts in reflector shape and then machine it.
Otherwise it would be a huge waste of aluminium, time, energy and tools.
Sure they recycle the machined off aluminium, but recycling those bits with machine oil and surface oxidation into the same quality alloy is costly too.
I think you would be surprised how quickly the modern CNC machine can carve up a big chunk of aluminum. I’m almost positive it’s quicker and cheaper to do it this way as opposed to using a forge and melting down aluminum then making castings which are going to end up not perfectly round for the lathe to grab ahold of.
You’ll start with drilling a hole probably, and go from there.
Quote:
Recycling the massive left overs is quite easy. It just gets shipped off. The place doing the machining doesn’t have to deal with it.
It’s still a huge loss in material (like 95%), which has to be sold as waste and shipped.
Imagine the weight of the huge solid rods (poles rather) needed to machine 1000 GT reflectors.
Fact is, we don’t know.
People making one offs for a project will have to use solid chunks, but we’re talking Chinese mass production here.
First I though they are made from circle plate shaped 3-5mm aluminum simply and fast with spinning over the shaped cast. Even Alloy wheels body is made that way…
But then I realized that we are talking about small CNC traces all over this thread, so they must be made from solid round chunk of aluminium bars at least 13cm in diameter.
That is just my conclusion, I’m not metallurgy expert, if someone knows better explanation I would like to know.
BVH wrote:
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today. I’ve been what I call a connoisseur of light for a decade or so now. My sweet spot is 5500K. I’ve just not been able to get into the neutral or warm Whites.
There is only 1 incan bulb in my house. Everything else is LED 5000K or 5500K. Now I can precisely measure all of my home, car, searchlight and other lights’ color temps and the REALCRI, not just the averaged number usually quoted for marketing purposes.
I’ve learned quite a bit over the last week while researching my purchase. The typical CRI number we see is the calculated average of 8 colors chosen decades ago by a Body in France, the name escapes me now. It represents how close a light source comes to the spectrum emitted by Tungsten incandescent light. CRI of Tungsten light is 100 on the CRI Scale.
Extended CRI adds another 7 colors to the mix and the Sekonic 7000 meter has the capability to measure and display the additional 7 additional colors. The more color samples that are taken, the more accurate your CRI is going to be.
But even CRI is a bit outdated and there have been and are processes in-motion to use another standard or two. There’s a lot more to it but i won’t get that deep.
Suffice to say that below, the first 2 pics are of readings of the Sun.
The first shows the Color temp in Kelvin (Tcp on the meter) of the Sun at 3:15 PM. Don’t pay attention to any of the lux reading as I did not set up for a precise Lux measurement.
The next pic shows the CRI RA average calculated on only the first 8 colors in the bar graph but it also shows specific individual CRI readings from all 15 samples. The higher the bar graph and number to the left, the higher the CRI of each of the sample colors and the closer to the Tungsten standard the measured light source is.
The 3rd and 4th pics are of the same type of measurements of the GT on HIGH, not Turbo.
The 5th and 6th pics are of the GT on Turbo. Notice how the R9 Red is absent from the GT and is actually a minus number.
Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Text Mode
Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Bar Graph Mode
GT at Top of Ramp Text Mode
GT at Top of Ramp Bar Graph
GT at Turbo Text Mode
GT at Turbo Bar Graph Mode
.
End of BVH post
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Wow BVH!!! .
This is beyond neat… thanks for sharing!
Seems we have the same tint preference. Mine is about 5000K – 5700K.
But while I have to go with the advertised ‘data’…. you can actually measure it!
I am impressed!! (and maybe even a slight bit envious… )
Thank you again for sharing!!
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
First I though they are made from circle plate shaped 3-5mm aluminum simply and fast with spinning over the shaped cast. Even Alloy wheels body is made that way…
But then I realized that we are talking about small CNC traces all over this thread, so they must be made from solid round chunk of aluminium bars at least 13cm in diameter.
A rough (or not so rough) cast has to be machined too, so either way, you’ll see the traces.
Was looking for a youtube video of flashlight reflector production, but haven’t found one yet.
There are various metal spinning videos though, but that’s not how these are made.
Quote:
That is just my conclusion, I’m not metallurgy expert, if someone knows better explanation I would like to know.
It would be cool if Lumintop came with a video of the production process, including the reflector.
Can’t we buy the new 5700k LED already mounted without sending our old LEDs back to Richard?
Problem is, there is no LED boards in the size the GT takes available
JasonWW wrote:
Correct, the GT has a massive 45mm diameter mcpcb. Richard carries them up to about 27mm. Keep in mind that the Convoy L6 with its xhp70 and 9,000 lumen potential (for the 70.2 and fet driver) only uses a 20mm mcpcb.
The reason the GT needs the massive size, even though it’s only putting out 2,500 lumen, is because of the massive reflector. The base of the reflector and centering ring are quite huge by normal flashlight standards.
See the base diameter of the reflector below. Courtesy of MRsDNF (Next to C8, S2+ and P60 reflectors)
Bonus pics.
Next to a Q8.
Currently there is a 32mm maxtoch mcpcb for an xml. These can be converted to 12 volt by some cutting and soldering, but I’m still not sure it would fit.
If anyone happens to find a big 12 volt xhp35 mcpcb for sale, please post about it here.
Thanks
.
End JasonWW post.
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Good info & pictures Jason……. .
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Guys, I think there is something wrong with my GT!
I have it now in momentary mode (press&hold for turbo) and each time I press the button
I can feel slight recoil!. This only happens if I go from off to turbo, all normal if it turns ON
in mode that is not turbo.
Guys, I think there is something wrong with my GT!
I have it now in momentary mode (press&hold for turbo) and each time I press the button
I can feel slight recoil!. This only happens if I go from off to turbo, all normal if it turns ON
in mode that is not turbo.
Pretty sure it’s normal. Do you have it loaded with 4 or 8 cells? 8 cells gives more mass which reduces the recoil.
Imagine all the trillion photons shooting away in just a couple of miliseconds after pressing the button.
This is for anyone who does not know how to acess the MCPCB/LED easily on the BLF GT.
First & foremost… DO NOTREMOVETHEBEZEL.
So….. here is the process….
Remove battery tube
Place the ‘flats’ of the *‘engine’ in PADDED vice jaws. DO NOT tighten hard. Tighten just enough to hold it firmly & keep it from turning.
Grab the head with both hands and twist it off the *‘engine’ that is being held in vice jaws. If you can’t get it with both hands use a strap wrench placed around head just BELOW the bezel.
The top part of the head should come off in one unit containg bezel, lens, & reflector as one piece.
Cover hole in reflector to keep dust or any crap from entering the reflector. Then secure this complete unit in a safe, clean, & dry manner/area.
You will now see the easily accessible MCPCB & LED.
Un-solder Red & Black wires on MCPCB, being careful NOT to damage LED(if you are going to keep it for use again anyway)
Remove both Phillips head screws from MCPCB
Remove MCPCB
Note: .. *‘Engine’ = Part that houses driver, side switch & MCPCB w/LED
That is it….
Installation will be the reverse of these steps with the EXCEPTION that new Thermal Pasted will be used under the MCPCB. This is AFTER you have removed and cleaned the old thermal paste from the MCPCB mounting shelf of the GT.
.
.
Also…. IF you ever do need to take a bezel off, get a piece of rubber bigger than the bezel (piece of tire inner tube is one example).
Place it on a sturdy flat smooth hard surface, then put the bezel face down on it.
As you push with downward pressure twist the head of the light to loosen and remove the bezel.
The GT bezel can be difficult to remove.
—
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Teacher makes it sound EASY to remove the head from the pill, and of course it is… if you have the right tools. Without a large enough vise (with soft jaws) and strong enough reinforced strap wrenches of sufficient length, well, good luck!
I have the set of tires removed from my diesel VW before the big scam/buyback stacked in the garage, I found it relatively easy to remove the bezel by pressing it into one of these Continental Extreme Contact DWS mounted tires and twisting. Access to the emitter is fairly easy due to the sheer size of the now open space (reflector removed).
Do take steps to keep the reflector clean, of course. I simply place it upside down in the bezel, atop the lens, and that suffices for the amount of time it takes to swap the emitter. Ambient conditions and presence of children are key factors involved in what measures one must go to. Pelican cases used to warranty their product against virtually anything, excepting Acts of God, Grizzly Attack, or Small Children… take heed!
Nice Olight video, you get the picture here how they produce flashlights. I guess this is one of the best facilities. Not every production facility looks like this in Guangdong region. This video shows that the reflectors are milled out of a cylinder of aluminium. No pictures of the coating process. Thanks for sharing.
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today. I’ve been what I call a connoisseur of light for a decade or so now. My sweet spot is 5500K. I’ve just not been able to get into the neutral or warm Whites. There is only 1 incan bulb in my house. Everything else is LED 5000K or 5500K. Now I can precisely measure all of my home, car, searchlight and other lights’ color temps and the REALCRI, not just the averaged number usually quoted for marketing purposes. I’ve learned quite a bit over the last week while researching my purchase. The typical CRI number we see is the calculated average of 8 colors chosen decades ago by a Body in France, the name escapes me now. It represents how close a light source comes to the spectrum emitted by Tungsten incandescent light. CRI of Tungsten light is 100 on the CRI Scale. Extended CRI adds another 7 colors to the mix and the Sekonic 7000 meter has the capability to measure and display the additional 7 additional colors. The more color samples that are taken, the more accurate your CRI is going to be. But even CRI is a bit outdated and there have been and are processes in-motion to use another standard or two. There’s a lot more to it but i won’t get that deep. Suffice to say that below, the first 2 pics are of readings of the Sun. The first shows the Color temp in Kelvin (Tcp on the meter) of the Sun at 3:15 PM. Don’t pay attention to any of the lux reading as I did not set up for a precise Lux measurement. The next pic shows the CRI RA average calculated on only the first 8 colors in the bar graph but it also shows specific individual CRI readings from all 15 samples. The higher the bar graph and number to the left, the higher the CRI of each of the sample colors and the closer to the Tungsten standard the measured light source is.
The 3rd and 4th pics are of the same type of measurements of the GT on HIGH, not Turbo. The 5th and 6th pics are of the GT on Turbo. Notice how the R9 Red is absent from the GT and is actually a minus number.
Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Text Mode
Thats a great tool you have there! All sorts of fun you can have with that.
I am also glad to see proof that what I have been saying for years is correct, that the sun is around 5000k.
Also good to see proof that the tint does get cooler as the power increases. I think some of those saying it is too warm are looking at it in low modes, where it is quite warm indeed. At full power it really looks much better.
Aluminum reflector this size and thickness,is made from single big peace of aluminium block.
After CNC machining all leftovers are being recycled..
I doubt that.
I assume they get rough casts in reflector shape and then machine it.
Otherwise it would be a huge waste of aluminium, time, energy and tools.
Sure they recycle the machined off aluminium, but recycling those bits with machine oil and surface oxidation into the same quality alloy is costly too.
They are using a billet to machine the reflectors almost assuredly. The cost to make a mold and cast them would be way more then it is worth for a production run this small. Plus the surface finish would not be as good with a cast material.
From the outside you can see the material quality is much too high for casting.
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today. I’ve been what I call a connoisseur of light for a decade or so now. My sweet spot is 5500K. I’ve just not been able to get into the neutral or warm Whites. There is only 1 incan bulb in my house. Everything else is LED 5000K or 5500K. Now I can precisely measure all of my home, car, searchlight and other lights’ color temps and the REAL CRI, not just the averaged number usually quoted for marketing purposes. I’ve learned quite a bit over the last week while researching my purchase. The typical CRI number we see is the calculated average of 8 colors chosen decades ago by a Body in France, the name escapes me now. It represents how close a light source comes to the spectrum emitted by Tungsten incandescent light. CRI of Tungsten light is 100 on the CRI Scale. Extended CRI adds another 7 colors to the mix and the Sekonic 7000 meter has the capability to measure and display the additional 7 additional colors. The more color samples that are taken, the more accurate your CRI is going to be. But even CRI is a bit outdated and there have been and are processes in-motion to use another standard or two. There’s a lot more to it but i won’t get that deep. Suffice to say that below, the first 2 pics are of readings of the Sun. The first shows the Color temp in Kelvin (Tcp on the meter) of the Sun at 3:15 PM. Don’t pay attention to any of the lux reading as I did not set up for a precise Lux measurement. The next pic shows the CRI RA average calculated on only the first 8 colors in the bar graph but it also shows specific individual CRI readings from all 15 samples. The higher the bar graph and number to the left, the higher the CRI of each of the sample colors and the closer to the Tungsten standard the measured light source is.
The 3rd and 4th pics are of the same type of measurements of the GT on HIGH, not Turbo. The 5th and 6th pics are of the GT on Turbo. Notice how the R9 Red is absent from the GT and is actually a minus number.
Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Text Mode
Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Bar Graph Mode
GT at Top of Ramp Text Mode
GT at Top of Ramp Bar Graph
GT at Turbo Text Mode
GT at Turbo Bar Graph Mode
WWII 60" Carbon Arc (Sold), 1.6KW NightSun, 1KW VSS-3A, .8KW TrakkaBeam, 600W M-134 Light, PolarLi 500 Watt 114MCP Custom, 500W X-500-14s, 500W Starburst, 500W A120b, 450 Watt AEG German Leopard 1 Tank Light, Enderman CFT-90 Syniosbeam, 300W Locators, Megaray, 150W Communicator, Maxabeam Gen3, Pichel 75W Mini-Novas
Now that is one awesome tool. I hope you know you are now obligated to test and upload results for every light you own lol.
New addict -Various Maglites; Olight S Mini, S1 Mini HCRI, S2R, M1X, X7; Emisar D1 5000K, D1S 4000K, D4 219C; Astrolux S41, S42 219C, and a Gigglestick thanks to BLF!
Nice BVH, bet you’re having fun with that!
Can’t we buy the new 5700k LED already mounted without sending our old LEDs back to Richard?
Problem is, there is no LED boards in the size the GT takes available
-the- Throw calculator - Pulsars list
You have to send him yours & he will reflow it , I think.
If you search the net to purchase a “block of aluminum” google will show you nothing other than square, flat, or rectangular stock. Anyhow, I get the point…
Teacher, I would like to be on the same page here. This block or chunk of aluminium is round stock and I would assume it is being turned in a CNC lathe?
I’m curious to how this reflector is being machined. Do you or anyone know of the page this info can be found or if this information was revealed, possibly a separate thread?Not everyone here realizes how much work and time is involved into producing such a (masterpiece) flashlight like this..!
As far as machining goes, I think we should shine some light on the subject. I think it may help ease the frustration of some of those who were unsatisfied or complaining about there reflectors finish.
Correct, the GT has a massive 45mm diameter mcpcb. Richard carries them up to about 27mm. Keep in mind that the Convoy L6 with its xhp70 and 9,000 lumen potential (for the 70.2 and fet driver) only uses a 20mm mcpcb.
The reason the GT needs the massive size, even though it’s only putting out 2,500 lumen, is because of the massive reflector. The base of the reflector and centering ring are quite huge by normal flashlight standards.
See the base diameter of the reflector below. Courtesy of MRsDNF (Next to C8, S2+ and P60 reflectors)
Bonus pics.
Next to a Q8.
Currently there is a 32mm maxtoch mcpcb for an xml. These can be converted to 12 volt by some cutting and soldering, but I’m still not sure it would fit.
If anyone happens to find a big 12 volt xhp35 mcpcb for sale, please post about it here.
Thanks
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I doubt that.
I assume they get rough casts in reflector shape and then machine it.
Otherwise it would be a huge waste of aluminium, time, energy and tools.
Sure they recycle the machined off aluminium, but recycling those bits with machine oil and surface oxidation into the same quality alloy is costly too.
I think you would be surprised how quickly the modern CNC machine can carve up a big chunk of aluminum. I’m almost positive it’s quicker and cheaper to do it this way as opposed to using a forge and melting down aluminum then making castings which are going to end up not perfectly round for the lathe to grab ahold of.
Recycling the massive left overs is quite easy. It just gets shipped off. The place doing the machining doesn’t have to deal with it.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It’s still a huge loss in material (like 95%), which has to be sold as waste and shipped.
Imagine the weight of the huge solid rods (poles rather) needed to machine 1000 GT reflectors.
Fact is, we don’t know.
People making one offs for a project will have to use solid chunks, but we’re talking Chinese mass production here.
First I though they are made from circle plate shaped 3-5mm aluminum simply and fast with spinning over the shaped cast. Even Alloy wheels body is made that way…
But then I realized that we are talking about small CNC traces all over this thread, so they must be made from solid round chunk of aluminium bars at least 13cm in diameter.
That is just my conclusion, I’m not metallurgy expert, if someone knows better explanation I would like to know.
BLF GT has just arrived. All perfect! What a light: I could use it to illuminate a tennis court! Thanks a lot!
BVH wrote:
Picked up a new toy…………..indispensable measuring tool today. I’ve been what I call a connoisseur of light for a decade or so now. My sweet spot is 5500K. I’ve just not been able to get into the neutral or warm Whites.
There is only 1 incan bulb in my house. Everything else is LED 5000K or 5500K. Now I can precisely measure all of my home, car, searchlight and other lights’ color temps and the REAL CRI, not just the averaged number usually quoted for marketing purposes.
I’ve learned quite a bit over the last week while researching my purchase. The typical CRI number we see is the calculated average of 8 colors chosen decades ago by a Body in France, the name escapes me now. It represents how close a light source comes to the spectrum emitted by Tungsten incandescent light. CRI of Tungsten light is 100 on the CRI Scale.
Extended CRI adds another 7 colors to the mix and the Sekonic 7000 meter has the capability to measure and display the additional 7 additional colors. The more color samples that are taken, the more accurate your CRI is going to be.
But even CRI is a bit outdated and there have been and are processes in-motion to use another standard or two. There’s a lot more to it but i won’t get that deep.
Suffice to say that below, the first 2 pics are of readings of the Sun.
The first shows the Color temp in Kelvin (Tcp on the meter) of the Sun at 3:15 PM. Don’t pay attention to any of the lux reading as I did not set up for a precise Lux measurement.
The next pic shows the CRI RA average calculated on only the first 8 colors in the bar graph but it also shows specific individual CRI readings from all 15 samples. The higher the bar graph and number to the left, the higher the CRI of each of the sample colors and the closer to the Tungsten standard the measured light source is.
The 3rd and 4th pics are of the same type of measurements of the GT on HIGH, not Turbo.
The 5th and 6th pics are of the GT on Turbo. Notice how the R9 Red is absent from the GT and is actually a minus number.
Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Text Mode
Sol at 3:15 PM Dec 12 Bar Graph Mode
GT at Top of Ramp Text Mode
GT at Top of Ramp Bar Graph
GT at Turbo Text Mode
GT at Turbo Bar Graph Mode
.
End of BVH post
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.
Wow BVH!!! .
This is beyond neat… thanks for sharing!
Seems we have the same tint preference. Mine is about 5000K – 5700K.
)
But while I have to go with the advertised ‘data’…. you can actually measure it!
I am impressed!! (and maybe even a slight bit envious…
Thank you again for sharing!!
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Was looking for a youtube video of flashlight reflector production, but haven’t found one yet.
There are various metal spinning videos though, but that’s not how these are made.
It would be cool if Lumintop came with a video of the production process, including the reflector.
Very nice though.
JasonWW wrote:
Correct, the GT has a massive 45mm diameter mcpcb. Richard carries them up to about 27mm. Keep in mind that the Convoy L6 with its xhp70 and 9,000 lumen potential (for the 70.2 and fet driver) only uses a 20mm mcpcb.
The reason the GT needs the massive size, even though it’s only putting out 2,500 lumen, is because of the massive reflector. The base of the reflector and centering ring are quite huge by normal flashlight standards.
See the base diameter of the reflector below. Courtesy of MRsDNF (Next to C8, S2+ and P60 reflectors)
Bonus pics.
Next to a Q8.
Currently there is a 32mm maxtoch mcpcb for an xml. These can be converted to 12 volt by some cutting and soldering, but I’m still not sure it would fit.
If anyone happens to find a big 12 volt xhp35 mcpcb for sale, please post about it here.
Thanks
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End JasonWW post.
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Good info & pictures Jason……. .
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
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Guys, I think there is something wrong with my GT!
I have it now in momentary mode (press&hold for turbo) and each time I press the button
I can feel slight recoil!. This only happens if I go from off to turbo, all normal if it turns ON
in mode that is not turbo.
A large reflector might also be produced differently. A large reflector might also be produced differently.. Production reflectors part 1… And without waste.
Imagine all the trillion photons shooting away in just a couple of miliseconds after pressing the button.
How to unscrew the head? I tried, but no chance.
Neal does not get a list of Lumintop to whom has the lamp been shipped? I wrote a message to Neal but did not answer.
Wouldn’t hydroforming be a better and more cost effective way to produce a reflector of this size?
It's moments of madness that keep us sane.
This is for anyone who does not know how to acess the MCPCB/LED easily on the BLF GT.
First & foremost… DO NOT REMOVE THE BEZEL.
So….. here is the process….
Note: .. *‘Engine’ = Part that houses driver, side switch & MCPCB w/LED
That is it….
Installation will be the reverse of these steps with the EXCEPTION that new Thermal Pasted will be used under the MCPCB. This is AFTER you have removed and cleaned the old thermal paste from the MCPCB mounting shelf of the GT.
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Also…. IF you ever do need to take a bezel off, get a piece of rubber bigger than the bezel (piece of tire inner tube is one example).
Place it on a sturdy flat smooth hard surface, then put the bezel face down on it.
As you push with downward pressure twist the head of the light to loosen and remove the bezel.
The GT bezel can be difficult to remove.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Hello, sorry for uploading a flashlight production video, which is not LT, but you can have an idea of the process, partially, greetings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfQDxs-dvwc
Teacher makes it sound EASY to remove the head from the pill, and of course it is… if you have the right tools. Without a large enough vise (with soft jaws) and strong enough reinforced strap wrenches of sufficient length, well, good luck!
I have the set of tires removed from my diesel VW before the big scam/buyback stacked in the garage, I found it relatively easy to remove the bezel by pressing it into one of these Continental Extreme Contact DWS mounted tires and twisting. Access to the emitter is fairly easy due to the sheer size of the now open space (reflector removed).
Do take steps to keep the reflector clean, of course. I simply place it upside down in the bezel, atop the lens, and that suffices for the amount of time it takes to swap the emitter. Ambient conditions and presence of children are key factors involved in what measures one must go to. Pelican cases used to warranty their product against virtually anything, excepting Acts of God, Grizzly Attack, or Small Children… take heed!
Nice Olight video, you get the picture here how they produce flashlights. I guess this is one of the best facilities. Not every production facility looks like this in Guangdong region. This video shows that the reflectors are milled out of a cylinder of aluminium. No pictures of the coating process. Thanks for sharing.
Thats a great tool you have there! All sorts of fun you can have with that.
I am also glad to see proof that what I have been saying for years is correct, that the sun is around 5000k.
Also good to see proof that the tint does get cooler as the power increases. I think some of those saying it is too warm are looking at it in low modes, where it is quite warm indeed. At full power it really looks much better.
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They are using a billet to machine the reflectors almost assuredly. The cost to make a mold and cast them would be way more then it is worth for a production run this small. Plus the surface finish would not be as good with a cast material.
From the outside you can see the material quality is much too high for casting.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
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