Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

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DB Custom
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Kawi is being silly. UCL means Ultra Clear Lens. UCLp means Ultra Clear Lens plastic, actually it’s acryllic.

Borofloat is glass, so of course it can’t be UCLp. Just sayin…

Borofloat is actually a different type glass, the UCL is water white. 98-99%.

Borofloat is 94% and made of borosilicate glass. The Borofloat isn’t AR coated.

giorgoskok
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“G” refers to giorgoskok Big Smile Big Smile

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giorgoskok wrote:
“G” refers to giorgoskok Big Smile Big Smile

I see.

I’m gonna get the uclp and check it out. Use the stocker as a spare. Thumbs Up

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DB Custom
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I think the meds may be gettin to me, I first posted this on the C8 thread, then realized I was somewhat off base… Blushing

Edit: Can you spot 9 lights and a laser? lol That’s a tiny corner of the bottom shelf, with 2 full shelves above it!

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Hey lads what KCD numbers are people getting from there L2? I measured mine at 270KCD but i am not expert at measuring distance. I shined it across a bay i was fishing at and i could see the light on a white house which is 1km away. It light up the reflectors easily but i was surprised to see it shine on a house.

Its hard for me to gauge distance i live on the coast and we stick out further then most of sydney so we cop all the wind this leaves a lot of water particles in the air. I have noticed if i do beam shots at my girlfriends parents although its a lake its like 30min inland and there isn’t much wind and waves so all lights shine better there.

!distance snip!

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Can someone give me info on L6 o-ring sizes?

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Follow up to my previous post of L6 with TA driver w/ narsil v1.4. By Lexel. Previously the led had a very low glow with side switch in the off position & tail on. See post #227. Lexel thought it was a leaky 7135 chip.

Now I’m seeing this, batteries are at 3.9 volt ea. Wondering if there is a way to measure 7135 chips to pinpoint the culprit.

EasyB
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Regarding the glowing emitters while off, I think I know the cause in my case. Your cause might still be the 7135. I’m not sure of an easy way to check for sure other than removing the 7135 chip and seeing if the glowing stops.

EasyB wrote:
Lexel wrote:
I tested the drivers with a Nichia 219 triple so on LDO drivers I did not drive the driver and LEDs with 2S voltage

My guess on that glow is a faulty 7135 that causes a very low leak current


You may be right, but I’ve observed the glowing with a FET-only driver with Zener mod.
EasyB wrote:
I’ve also observed emitters glowing in my 2s 7xXPL light with a FET driver. I also observe the glowing in its current configuration which is a FET and voltage divider, no MCU. I think it is simply the leakage current of the FET. You don’t see glowing in 1s lights because the voltage across the FET is lower so lower leakage current. Also when the batteries in my 2s light are lower voltage, like 3.7V, the glowing is dimmer or non existent.

I just experimented with a couple FETs I bought from mtnelectronics. Their spec is for ~1 microamp leakage current at 0V gate voltage and 20V drain-source voltage. I measured it with an LED in the circuit and got less than 0.1 microamp at 20V (not measurable on my DMM) and the LED did not glow at all. So FET leakage at 0V gate voltage cannot explain the glow. With my sliding resistor 7xXPL light the lowest setting has the gate voltage not equal to 0V, so that could explain some higher leakage in that case. But when I had a FET-only driver with Zener mod I also observed the glowing, so this is unexplained by me.

To satisfy my curiosity I measured the current through an LED necessary to notice the glowing. It needs about 5 microamps to clearly notice the glowing. To measure this I just put a 4.7 megaohm resistor in series with the LED while adjusting the voltage and measuring the current.

I used all 7 emitters/MCPCBs from my 7xXPL L2 build to make my 7xC8 build, using a (different) FET-only driver with e-switch. Now only the first parallel string of emitters glows while off. So I think there must be a high-resistance connection from one of the LED negatives to ground. In my L2 build I must have had this one LED in the second parallel string, which made all of the emitters glow. In my current build that one LED must be in the first string (from positive), making just the first string glow.

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Etex wrote:
Follow up to my previous post of L6 with TA driver w/ narsil v1.4. By Lexel. Previously the led had a very low glow with side switch in the off position & tail on. See post #227. Lexel thought it was a leaky 7135 chip.

Now I’m seeing this, batteries are at 3.9 volt ea. Wondering if there is a way to measure 7135 chips to pinpoint the culprit.


Wow, thats odd. Maybe Lexel should replace it? I know it’s only $25, but I’d be pretty upset. If he sent you a new one and you sent the old one back to him, he might be able to remove all components and reflow them back on (using new 7135 chips) then he could simply resale it to another person so he doesn’t lose much money.

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I’m recharging batteries to see if symptoms are related to voltage.

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Etex wrote:
Follow up to my previous post of L6 with TA driver w/ narsil v1.4. By Lexel. Previously the led had a very low glow with side switch in the off position & tail on. See post #227. Lexel thought it was a leaky 7135 chip.

Now I’m seeing this, batteries are at 3.9 volt ea. Wondering if there is a way to measure 7135 chips to pinpoint the culprit.

In the new batch I tested the drivers with a XHP70 LED and had 2 drivers with the same behavior
Its voltage related the 7135 support oficially only 6V

Both had a 7135 chip with leak current

Its no problem to fix the driver for free if you send it to me

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EasyB wrote:
DB Custom wrote:
Got a new Convoy L2 in today, XM-L2 NW, almost 1000 lumens on a single cell. While I really really dig the dimensions on the single cell beauty, I had something else in mind. Smile

I did some machine work on it to fit a 26mm MaxToch mcpcb onto the shelf, loaded a XHP-35 E2 3A emitter on it, bored out the driver bay to take Mountain Electronics MTN Buck driver at 27.5mm and 2.5A for the 12V emitter.
No tail spring bypass and with a rigged spacer as the cells are a bit short (I’m using 3 extension tubes, 4 Basen 26650’s) It’s making…

0.01A for 2.59 Lumens
0.05A for 71.42
1.03A for 1193.7
2.42A for 2352.9 and 2270.1 at 30 seconds.

Edit: Lux is 258Kcd for 1015.87M throw. Wink Not fantastic, but not too bad either.

I machined inside the head and outside the reflector to allow the reflector to sit deeper, used Simons taper centering ring he designed for the XP-L, works great! Kind of a Convoy tribute to the old 4 cell MagLite of old. Big Smile

(had to double up on some pain meds, made it through pretty well, covering the lathe back up in the shop is a major pita though, ugh!)

I think this is a great result. I’m planning on playing with the H2-C single cell boost driver in the L2 to see if I can make it put out 2.5A. I’m planning on changing out the inductor for one with less resistance.

Modded the H2-C driver with a R030 sense resistor to output 2.37A to the XHP35 HI E2 3A emitter. (see this post and thread for info on modding this driver) I filed down the edges to make it fit in the L2 driver space. I could not get the output to be stable at this level with 1s input, so I’m using 2×26350 cells. These cells are a bit too long for the L2 single tube so for now the battery tube is not completely threaded into the head, to make room for the cells.

I measured 250Kcd at 6m. I was comparing the L2 w/XHP35 to my fandyfire SP02 with dedomed XPL V6 1A, which does 243Kcd with a fully charged 30Q at about 20s. The SP02 has the same reflector as the HD2010 and Mitko’s BLF style thrower. Based on a ceiling bounce test the L2 has about 30% more output. The two beams look very similar. The L2 hotspot is very slightly larger with a larger corona.

So, a pretty good result, but not a huge performance increase over the dedomed XPL V6. The boost driver/XHP35 setup also uses quite a bit more power, about 60% more from the cell(s).

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I took the H2-C driver and XHP35 out of the L2 and replaced it with a sliced XHP50 J4 running off 2×26350. It pulls around 6.5-7A from the 26350 cells and does about 2900 lumens at 15s and 157Kcd at 30s. There is a donut hole.

Edit: I’m pretty pleased with the short L2 and XHP50 combo. The beam is about the same size as an EE X6 with XPL HI now.

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Modded my Convoy L6 with TA 30mm driver by Lexel.
This is my very first mod and I reused the spring and lead wires.
Thought I burnt a chip but luckily the flashlight is working.
Steep learning curve for me as its a first for me especially the soldering part.

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Quick question, does the LD-29 in the L2 support 5-6V emitters with 2x li-ion input? I want to put a XHP50.2 in mine.

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Etex wrote:
Follow up to my previous post of L6 with TA driver w/ narsil v1.4. By Lexel. Previously the led had a very low glow with side switch in the off position & tail on. See post #227. Lexel thought it was a leaky 7135 chip.

Now I’m seeing this, batteries are at 3.9 volt ea. Wondering if there is a way to measure 7135 chips to pinpoint the culprit.

Mine was exactly the same but last time i tested it was working as intended. My guess is a lose solderblob or a cold solder someplace.

Il do some testing in a few days when im off work for a looong time.

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doubleone44 wrote:
Quick question, does the LD-29 in the L2 support 5-6V emitters with 2x li-ion input? I want to put a XHP50.2 in mine.

Is the LD-29 the stock driver for the L2?
I know a little L2 driver history. When it first came out the L2 could only support a single cell driving a 3 volt emitter. Later on it was able to support one or two cells but the output is always 3v.

If you want to run a 6 volt emitter I’m pretty sure you’re going to have to swap drivers.

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EasyB
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Modded an L2 with triple XPL. I’ve tried a few different emitter combinations in my shorty L2 host recently. I had a modded H2-C driver with XHP35 HI powered by 2×26350 that did around 2200 lumens and 250Kcd. This was a nice combination but I have a fandyfire SP02 with dedomed XPL V6 that had similar performance in a more compact package. Next I had a sliced XHP50 with FET driver and 2×26350 that did ~2900 lumens and 157Kcd. I feel like this combination suited the L2 well; the host has some nice mass and fins so I think a more powerful setup is needed with the L2.

Finally I modded it with this triple dedomed XPL V6 1A setup. The reflectors are from EE X6’s. Quite a bit of shaping (with a file) was needed to get them to fit.

It does ~3600 lumens at 15s and 152Kcd with a 30Q. The beam is pretty much like a EE X6, but appears a bit wider. I think this a result of the modifications to the reflectors. The outer part of the reflector contributes light to the center part of the beam, so removing some of this part takes some of the light from the center of the beam and moves it to the spill, resulting in a wider spill with some “flower petal” pattern.

Was hoping for a bit more beam lux, but it’s a nicer beam than the XHP50 and produces more light more efficiently. It pulls around 12A.

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Nice one! I have a LOT of X6 reflectors sitting around doing nothing. Big Smile

Got my first XHP-70.2 in today from Richard so of course, cervical collar or no, I swapped it into my ramping L6. It’s now pulling 16.48A (up from 11.91A) and making 7417.5 lumens at start on fresh charged LiitoKala light blue 5000mAh cells.

I don’t have a smooth reflector for it, cut the aperture of mine to fit the MT-G2 in my other L6, guess I’ll have to see about procuring another reflector or sanding down one of the OP ones I have extra.

Edit: Does 9073.5 lumens sound better? I forgot I had a small Omten switch in this one and I did not have it bypassed, so I put a Lg Omten switch with a 20ga bypass in it. Big Smile Recharging cells again to see what a max possible lumens is.

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Well, so much for trying to salvage r100's from other circuit boards to stack on an L6. Lux readings were same after mod (if not slightly worse).

 

In other news, I took some comparison measurements with different batteries &  TA Driver :

 

L6 Stock KP Protected 5200mah.

  - 3090 lux - 77,250 cd - 556 meters

 

L6 Stock KP IMR 5200mah.

 - 3125 lux - 78,125 cd - 559 meters

 

L6 TA Driver Schockli 5500mah.

 - 4800 lux -120,000 cd - 693 meters

 

 Ceiling bounce:

L6 TA Driver:
.............................. 15 sec. Off.  +30 sec
KP Protected -     508 lux.     -      497 lux
KP IMR. -             538 lux.      -      506 lux
Schockli. -           541 lux.      -      536 lux

Etex
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Another item I discovered, my original black L6 tail cap spring, started to malfunction. Jumper wire came loose, but I also noticed the height of the spring was shorter than on my clear L6’s, plus the coiled spring wire diameter was smaller, as well. Cause light to not make contact with shorter IMR batteries. Replaced it.

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Removing resistors from one circuit to use on another can be tricky, there is a metal “C” shaped attachment on each end of a ceramic resistor and this is what allows us to solder them on in the first place. Many times, one end of the metal will slip off the ceramic, leaving nothing to solder to. I like to slip a razor blade under one end while softening the solder and let the razor blade divide the resistor from the board, but only lifting by that minimal thickness. Then I go to the other side and, without lifting the loose side, soften the solder on this last side and lift with tweezers. Usually, but not always, works.

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Thanks Dale,

That’s certainly possible, kinda hard to tell on tiny parts. Here’s 1 of 3 resistors (bottom view) I removed from 3 sep locations.

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You should be able to test it with a DMM, make sure both ends are capable of taking a circuit. Looks like the bottom as shown may be missing that metal end cap, can’t be for sure though.

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I tried to measure it, but couldn’t get a valid reading. Differed depending where I put the probes, open vs 0.000 vs .3 ?

DB Custom wrote:
You should be able to test it with a DMM, make sure both ends are capable of taking a circuit. Looks like the bottom as shown may be missing that metal end cap, can’t be for sure though.
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I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

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what is the easiest mod to achieve 5000ish lumens on L6?

JasonWW wrote:
I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

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rizky_p wrote:
what is the easiest mod to achieve 5000ish lumens on L6?

JasonWW wrote:
I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.


It depends on what you mean by easy.

If you mean less work, then you can do a driver swap and easily exceed 5,000 lumen. That’s basically soldering 2 wires. Very easy, but about $25 for the driver.

If you mean cheaply, then maybe you can get the stock driver to work. You can add a jumper wire across the resistors. For this you can just pull the stock driver out a little bit and solder the wire on. It doesn’t cost anything, but I don’t know if you would hit 5,000 lumen.

With any type of mod to the driver, you will always get more output using a unprotected, low internal resistance battery, like the Liitokalas.

Oh yeah, and the cool white versions are always gonna give more output than the NW.

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thanks.

i think i’ll go for driver swap in the end but i can also try resistor mod first. What is the diameter of the convoy L6 driver? 30mm?

JasonWW wrote:

It depends on what you mean by easy.

If you mean less work, then you can do a driver swap and easily exceed 5,000 lumen. That’s basically soldering 2 wires. Very easy, but about $25 for the driver.

If you mean cheaply, then maybe you can get the stock driver to work. You can add a jumper wire across the resistors. For this you can just pull the stock driver out a little bit and solder the wire on. It doesn’t cost anything, but I don’t know if you would hit 5,000 lumen.

With any type of mod to the driver, you will always get more output using a unprotected, low internal resistance battery, like the Liitokalas.

Oh yeah, and the cool white versions are always gonna give more output than the NW.

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Actually, Jason, the green you’re seeing is some stuck on coating (on the underside of the resistor) from the circuit board that I lifted the resistor off of. The right hand pic shows a swatch of green missing from the board. The top is black with R100 printed.

JasonWW wrote:
I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.

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