Convoy L2/L6 modding thread

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Etex
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If you decide to remove driver for swapping out or working on, JasonWW shared a Kawiboy tweak that was pictured on post #265, but now photo is not available (due to photobucket crackdown). It allows you to remove driver & side switch without desoldering the switch (recommended).

rizky_p wrote:
thanks.

i think i’ll go for driver swap in the end but i can also try resistor mod first. What is the diameter of the convoy L6 driver? 30mm?

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Etex wrote:
Actually, Jason, the green you’re seeing is some stuck on coating (on the underside of the resistor) from the circuit board that I lifted the resistor off of. The right hand pic shows a swatch of green missing from the board. The top is black with R100 printed.

JasonWW wrote:
I’m not very experienced in smd stuff, but I’ve never seen a green resistor, only black. I have seen green capacitors, though. Are you sure that’s a resistor?

I had one of the original jumper wires come off as well.

Later on I replaced the tail wire with 1mm copper braid. Now that it’s pulling 12 amps I’ve noticed the copper braid melted through.

Then I doubled up the copper braid and it’s melted through as well.

I’m gonna try some thicker copper wire next.


Okay, just checking. Smile

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Etex wrote:
If you decide to remove driver for swapping out or working on, JasonWW shared a Kawiboy tweak that was pictured on post #265, but now photo is not available (due to photobucket crackdown). It allows you to remove driver & side switch without desoldering the switch (recommended).

rizky_p wrote:
thanks.

i think i’ll go for driver swap in the end but i can also try resistor mod first. What is the diameter of the convoy L6 driver? 30mm?


Yeah, 30mm.

I just uploaded all my L6 pictures in my thread. Link in my signature.

Here’s the pic you were referring to.

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rizky_p
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Etex wrote:
If you decide to remove driver for swapping out or working on, JasonWW shared a Kawiboy tweak that was pictured on post #265, but now photo is not available (due to photobucket crackdown). It allows you to remove driver & side switch without desoldering the switch (recommended).

thanks for the tips.

JasonWW wrote:
Yeah, 30mm. I just uploaded all my L6 pictures in my thread. Link in my signature. Here’s the pic you were referring to.

thank you

mizou51
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Hello

I m modding a L6 silver with a 30mm fet driver from MTN and xhp70 N4 bin.
I have de soldered and replaced led and driver and side switch.
But when I turn on with tail switch I only have the high mode. Side switch dont do anything…
Any idea?

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!

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mizou51 wrote:
Hello

I m modding a L6 silver with a 30mm fet driver from MTN and xhp70 N4 bin.
I have de soldered and replaced led and driver and side switch.
But when I turn on with side switch I only have the high mode. Side switch dont do anything…
Any idea?


So the side switch works since it’s turning on the light, but it’s not cycling through the modes?

I’ve never worked with that driver. I would suggest asking Richard about it since he was the one who assembled and programmed it.

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mizou51
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I turn on light with the tail switch. But seems like side switch doesn’t work…
I did an email and waiting for reply

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mizou51 wrote:
I turn on light with the tail switch. But seems like side switch doesn’t work…
I did an email and waiting for reply

Okay, well you can check the side switch to make sure it’s making continuity just by putting a multimeter on it and pressing the button to see if you have contact. If it has continuity without pushing the button then you may need to desolder one of the wires so you can check it properly.

Or just short the switch pads, bypassing the switch to see if the driver responds.

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mizou51
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I checked that and there is continuity only when I push it. Strange no?

JasonWW
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mizou51 wrote:
I checked that and there is continuity only when I push it. Strange no?

That’s what it’s supposed to do. It’s normally open and when you push the button, that closes the circuit.

So if you rule out a bad switch, then the problem might be a component on the driver or maybe the firmware had an issue when it was flashed. I would have to wait to hear back from Richard because I can’t go any further than that.

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Etex
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Did you check continuity at each end of the switch to driver wires, in case you have a broken wire, midway?

EasyB
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mizou51 wrote:
Hello

I m modding a L6 silver with a 30mm fet driver from MTN and xhp70 N4 bin.
I have de soldered and replaced led and driver and side switch.
But when I turn on with tail switch I only have the high mode. Side switch dont do anything…
Any idea?

This sounds like a short between battery negative/ground and LED negative. Basically connecting the LED direct drive. Commonly this can be caused by the reflector touching the negative LED wire, but you will have to find the short in your case because it could be several different spots.

DB Custom
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Did you put the original side switch onto Richards driver or did it come with a side switch? The easiest thing to do wrong is connect the switch wires in the wrong place. No way to get em backwards or anything, just the wrong pads. In the past Richard wasn’t making this size with a side switch, I don’t know if he’s doing so now or not.

If you put the switch wires on his driver, can you tell us where you soldered them?

Edit: Nevermind, I saw your pictures. The main thing you should look at now is if you have a short at the reflector to the black contact on the mcpcb…

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Got my XHP70.2 today Smile

Really nice improvement in throw and almost no donut hole.


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mizou51
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DB Custom wrote:
Did you put the original side switch onto Richards driver or did it come with a side switch? The easiest thing to do wrong is connect the switch wires in the wrong place. No way to get em backwards or anything, just the wrong pads. In the past Richard wasn’t making this size with a side switch, I don’t know if he’s doing so now or not.

If you put the switch wires on his driver, can you tell us where you soldered them?

Edit: Nevermind, I saw your pictures. The main thing you should look at now is if you have a short at the reflector to the black contact on the mcpcb…

hello

finally Richard respond me also and it wasnt the reflector, but in some way the negative wire on the LED did touch the copper side of the mcpcb…and there was a continuity between negative led and host.

I mesured the sotck L6 and the XHP70 N4 + FET MTN driver and i got 1.6x more lumens.

That’s a good host for modding

thanks you all for your replies and answers.

Cawi
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Since I just got my first L6 I’d like to do something.. Could you guys help me with my shopping list? Smile
I wan’t to use a sliced XHP70.2 with the SMO reflector for getting the most throw and lumens possible.

1) SMO Reflector
2) XHP70.2 P2, 4000K
3) Liitokala 26650 (are they the best I can get? The last 26650 I bought was the KingKong about 3 or 4 years ago..)
4) Driver: I’d like to have Narsil, high current and a lighted side-switch. AFAIK Lexel doesn’t build the TA-drivers any more? Some other source I could get them from?
5) which board/led’s and rubber domes do you guys use for the lighted side switch?

Apart from that.. anyone thought about making the head out of copper (this light is just to light Wink ) and/or build a tailcap with usb-carging? (cell balancing could be a problem?)

The_Driver
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Slicing is probably not worth it in terms of throw Wink

Cawi
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what is it good for then? Shocked

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Cawi wrote:
what is it good for then? Shocked

I meant just this LED. Normally slicing works, but these new Cree LEDs (XP-G3, XHP50.2, XHP70.2) are different. It doesn’t have the same effect as with the older Crees.

See here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/54987

Cawi
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oh.. never used a .2 before. How much increase in throw could I expect?

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Anybody try a 70.2 in a l2?

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Is there a driver that will fit in convoy l2 to run a xhp 70.2.

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Cawi wrote:
Since I just got my first L6 I’d like to do something.. Could you guys help me with my shopping list? Smile
I wan’t to use a sliced XHP70.2 with the SMO reflector for getting the most throw and lumens possible.

1) SMO Reflector
2) XHP70.2 P2, 4000K
3) Liitokala 26650 (are they the best I can get? The last 26650 I bought was the KingKong about 3 or 4 years ago..)
4) Driver: I’d like to have Narsil, high current and a lighted side-switch. AFAIK Lexel doesn’t build the TA-drivers any more? Some other source I could get them from?
5) which board/led’s and rubber domes do you guys use for the lighted side switch?

Apart from that.. anyone thought about making the head out of copper (this light is just to light Wink ) and/or build a tailcap with usb-carging? (cell balancing could be a problem?)

AFAIK you can just ask Lexel for a TA driver for your L6. since he is German as well, shipping will not be any problem.
The other items you are talking about will probably not give you that much more light,
Good cells are indispensable though.

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JIGHEADWORM wrote:
Is there a driver that will fit in convoy l2 to run a xhp 70.2.

28-22 20mm or 17mm Zener Mod FETDD Which ever model you have?http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11...

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JIGHEADWORM wrote:
Is there a driver that will fit in convoy l2 to run a xhp 70.2.
The original driver is a LD-29. Kaidomain’s LD-29S should work. 3A at 6V.
Or if you can fit it in: FastTech’s 4A driver.

XHP50.2 might be a better fit as a thrower.

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Cawi wrote:
Since I just got my first L6 I’d like to do something.. Could you guys help me with my shopping list? Smile
I wan’t to use a sliced XHP70.2 with the SMO reflector for getting the most throw and lumens possible.

1) SMO Reflector
2) XHP70.2 P2, 4000K
3) Liitokala 26650 (are they the best I can get? The last 26650 I bought was the KingKong about 3 or 4 years ago..)
4) Driver: I’d like to have Narsil, high current and a lighted side-switch. AFAIK Lexel doesn’t build the TA-drivers any more? Some other source I could get them from?
5) which board/led’s and rubber domes do you guys use for the lighted side switch?

Apart from that.. anyone thought about making the head out of copper (this light is just to light Wink ) and/or build a tailcap with usb-carging? (cell balancing could be a problem?)

I am still selling the 4. batch, about half of the ones I can build are sold

JasonWW
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Cawi wrote:
Since I just got my first L6 I’d like to do something.. Could you guys help me with my shopping list? Smile
I wan’t to use a sliced XHP70.2 with the SMO reflector for getting the most throw and lumens possible.

1) SMO Reflector
2) XHP70.2 P2, 4000K
3) Liitokala 26650 (are they the best I can get? The last 26650 I bought was the KingKong about 3 or 4 years ago..)
4) Driver: I’d like to have Narsil, high current and a lighted side-switch. AFAIK Lexel doesn’t build the TA-drivers any more? Some other source I could get them from?
5) which board/led’s and rubber domes do you guys use for the lighted side switch?

Apart from that.. anyone thought about making the head out of copper (this light is just to light Wink ) and/or build a tailcap with usb-carging? (cell balancing could be a problem?)


I’ve got a whole write up on how to do this in my signiture.

Lexel can get you a driver.

Simon at Convoy can get you a translucent side switch.

Liitokala are definetly good. I’ve got the blue and the newer ones are black, but they all perform about the same. I’m getting 17.3 amps at 30 seconds.

It’s too dangerous to have built in charging with series cells. Just get a fast charger. I’ve got the Xtar Sv2 rocket which can charge 2 26650 at 2 amps each. It makes for quick charging. Sometimes they are on sale. I got mine for about $19.

Keep in mind that slicing the dome always looses you lumens, but usually creates a smaller hotspot which gives more distance. I tried this on a xhp70, but didn’t like the loss of lumens. I prefer the dome on. I kept the dome on my 70.2 as well. I haven’t done any lux measurements to see what the distance is, but with such high lumens, 8,000 maybe, the range is very good. I wouldn’t be surprised if it was over 900 or 1000 yards.

Keep in mind though that when your making 120 watts the light will heat up fast. I only use full power on rare occasions like testing or if I need max distance. Maybe 30 seconds at most with full cells and full power.

It also tends to burn through braided copper spring bypasses. I had to use a thicker copper wire for a bypassed tail spring.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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JIGHEADWORM
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
JIGHEADWORM wrote:
Is there a driver that will fit in convoy l2 to run a xhp 70.2.

28-22 20mm or 17mm Zener Mod FETDD Which ever model you have?http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=67_11...

If i try a 50.2 on this driver will it go up in smoke?

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