Definitely. I have one built as you describe. I’d have to look back through a a bunch of old messages but it’s hitting somewhere between 320 and 350 Kcd with a crazy pencil thin beam. Very lightsaber-like.
Just out of curiosity, was the beam still usable or does it get too narrow? I’ve never seem beam shots of the little xpg2.
Fwiw, and just my 2¢ here, but I only bought my L2 because I wanted a super-thrower, basically a “flashlight laser” with ideally little to no spill, for “reaching out” long distances w/o washing out the foreground. Was between the L2 and a Maxtoch…
A “usable” flashlight with lots of spill kinda negates all that. I might as well just use a regular C8 for that…
Nope, you misunderstood me. I meant “usable” as in the hotspot size at distance. For a dedicated thrower, I would want no spill at all, so as not to hurt my night vision.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
For a dedicated thrower, I would want no spill at all, so as not to hurt my night vision.
There is a tiny bit of spill in my L2 but it only interferes up close. I had to hold it above my head to ensure the white cowling from my boat didn’t light up while looking for markers and shorelines some few hundred meters ahead. Other than that it’s a beautiful beam that lights up just what you are pointing at. I wouldn’t call the beam in mine pencil thin, more like a shaft of light that has negligible spread all the way out.
I’ll see if I can get some decent beam shots tonight.
—
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
Since I don't have an L2, what are the common ways to bump up its power?
Do most folks do a driver swap to bump up the amps or mod the stock driver?
Can the stock emitter handle more power or should it be swapped out with a better one on a copper star?
I might buy an L2 just to check it out. I see the xpl-hi is an option, so I'll get that for sure. Maybe a 4 or 5 amp stock L2 will satisfy my needs, if not I can do more extensive mods. I don't want to get ahead of myself.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
This is great conversation, but I think we should keep the topic in mind. L2 and L6 mods.
Wellp, with a different head, you can fit a deep-dish reflector (shaped more like a champagne flute than a salad-bowl) to “capture” more light and aim it straight ahead vs just having it spill out.
It’s still parabolic, just a different section.
The spill can be measured as the cone from the focus (where the LED chip is) to the edge of the reflector. Light outside that cone hits the reflector and is focussed straight ahead. Light inside that cone travels unimpeded in a straight line outwards, diverging outward.
Make that cone smaller, and a higher percentage of light hits the reflector vs “spills” outside. Hence, the champagne-flute reflector.
Oh yeah, that’s why a reflex setup (LED mounted “backwards” on a stick) has an incredible beam and virtually zero spill, because pretty much everything hits the reflector and is focussed out the front. Lousy heat handling, though.
No it’s a dedomed XP G2 S4 2B with a FET driver. Tried an XPL-HI, was nice but the dedomed S4 2B out throws it substantially and has a tighter beam. With XPL-HI V2 2C I got just under 900 meters. Getting 1050 meters with the S4 2B.
If you’re comfortable with a soldering iron here is the parts list:
No it’s a dedomed XP G2 S4 2B with a FET driver. Tried an XPL-HI, was nice but the dedomed S4 2B out throws it substantially and has a tighter beam. With XPL-HI V2 2C I got just under 900 meters. Getting 1050 meters with the S4 2B.
If you’re comfortable with a soldering iron here is the parts list:
Yes with a fully charged Basen 4500 I got a surprising 4.9 amps at start. I was expecting the forward voltage of the led to keep it down around 4 amps. With that much current a wire bypass of the tail spring is recommended to keep the spring and switch from overheating. Again, not difficult if you can solder. There are threads here to show you the various methods members have come up with.
The most difficult part of the process for me was finding the right focus. You need to sand down the height of the centering ring a little to tighten up the beam profile for a dedomed led. How much is just trial and error. Order a few of these so you can try varying thicknesses. You can use a lux meter to help you tune the focus if you have one or just go outside and shine it into the sky. You can see the difference in the beam.
I see that the host and centering rings are out of stock at the moment but they will restock soon.
—
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
The maximum I measured is about 7.3 amps, with shorted resistor. Wouldn’t recommend it, smells from the driver compartment.
Yes, I’ve heard that the R100 was pretty much like a direct short through the resistors. Also that the stock driver will not reach 8 amps, so a R120 or R140 are the better choices.
The L6 SMO reflector is not available anymore? Anyone can help to confirm this?
As jdub said there were only 30-35 pieces.
You need to wait the second batch.
That is correct. Thankfully the first batch sold quickly enough that Simon agreed to produce a second batch. I will post an update when they are available.
Hmmm might be awhile to post what I have already done to them….but here we go with the most recent…and one of my favorite builds!!
L6 Bare Aluminum – LD-2 Linear Driver set-up at 2S 12amps. Dual button functionality, tail cap moves thru the 3 levels and has memory, and the e-switch has 3 levels with momentary off. I LOVE IT!
The XHP70 P2 1C emitter was chosen for it’s Brutal output what else! A custom hand made driver adapter using (2) 17-20mm brass adapter rings a couple copper crush rings, and the stock brass retainer ring to encase every thing together and sink the driver. Polished every thing up for some inner bling!! Tested 12.01 amps on the money from the Linear driver till the batteries are Dead dead dead, which isn’t long!! Finishing it off with one of the Prototype Smooth reflectors!
This has got to be one of the most gorgeous lights I own, thanks to Jared and Simon, thank you guy’s!!
Same L6 but in the short version with the L2 XHP50 FETDD guppydrv. ver.1 driver Glass Bead Blasted and Polished
Hmmm might be awhile to post what I have already done to them….but here we go with the most recent…and one of my favorite builds!!
L6 Bare Aluminum – LD-2 Linear Driver set-up at 2S 12amps. Dual button functionality, tail cap moves thru the 3 levels and has memory, and the e-switch has 3 levels with momentary off. I LOVE IT!
The XHP70 P2 1C emitter was chosen for it’s Brutal output what else! A custom hand made driver adapter using (2) 17-20mm brass adapter rings a couple copper crush rings, and the stock brass retainer ring to encase every thing together and sink the driver. Polished every thing up for some inner bling!! Tested 12.01 amps on the money from the Linear driver till the batteries are Dead dead dead, which isn’t long!! Finishing it off with one of the Prototype Smooth reflectors!
This has got to be one of the most gorgeous lights I own, thanks to Jared and Simon, thank you guy’s!!
Same L6 but in the short version with the L2 XHP50 FETDD guppydrv. ver.1 driver Glass Bead Blasted and Polished
Great theme friends! I am looking for my next modification and I have in sight a Convoy L2 with XP-G2 dedomed, but I interested ah move to the one L6 with XP-G2 dedomado … that interesting everything I read.
Thanks for sharing
Great theme friends! I am looking for my next modification and I have in sight a Convoy L2 with XP-G2 dedomed, but I interested ah move to the one L6 with XP-G2 dedomado … that interesting everything I read.
Thanks for sharing
I have one from Dale , which is making 439kcd if i remember correctly.
Personally , i would use dedomed xp-l v6 , throw won’t be over 350kcd but it will have 2k lumens too.
Pretty sure the de-domed XP-L V6 won’t do 2000 lumens. Maybe 1600. Since the die is essentially an XM-L2 die it’s likely it would be doing good to make 330Kcd, but if every last trick is pulled it might fare a little better. Would be interesting to see how it stacked up huh?
Pretty sure the de-domed XP-L V6 won’t do 2000 lumens. Maybe 1600. Since the die is essentially an XM-L2 die it’s likely it would be doing good to make 330Kcd, but if every last trick is pulled it might fare a little better. Would be interesting to see how it stacked up huh?
There is a loss when de-doming, and many times you lose the entire emitter when trying.
And that is a quote on the new XP-L W2, not the V6. I’ve seen the W2 make 2000 lumens and a little, but the V6 won’t do it. The W2 is not so easy to acquire.
And, no offense to Mitko, but his numbers always are higher than anyone elses. I know, they said that about me for a long time, but if Mitko’s numbers are even higher than mine, after all the crap I’ve taken over my own high numbers, well…..
There is a loss when de-doming, and many times you lose the entire emitter when trying.
And that is a quote on the new XP-L W2, not the V6. I’ve seen the W2 make 2000 lumens and a little, but the V6 won’t do it. The W2 is not so easy to acquire.
And, no offense to Mitko, but his numbers always are higher than anyone elses. I know, they said that about me for a long time, but if Mitko’s numbers are even higher than mine, after all the crap I’ve taken over my own high numbers, well…..
Mine are always lower
Not a very good thing when you’re into modding I verified it once again with your L6 …
There is a loss when de-doming, and many times you lose the entire emitter when trying.
And that is a quote on the new XP-L W2, not the V6. I’ve seen the W2 make 2000 lumens and a little, but the V6 won’t do it. The W2 is not so easy to acquire.
And, no offense to Mitko, but his numbers always are higher than anyone elses. I know, they said that about me for a long time, but if Mitko’s numbers are even higher than mine, after all the crap I’ve taken over my own high numbers, well…..
Mine are always lower
Not a very good thing when you’re into modding I verified it once again with your L6 …
Yeah I know the feeling! I do back flips and cartwheels, if the thing even (emits light) Turns ON!
So I’m about to pull the trigger on an L6. I’m going to get the full flashlight and swap in a XHP70 P2 1C and use the original XHP70 in something else.
Should I just go with RMM’s 30mm L6 driver? Is it hard to reprogram? And which 26650s? I’d prefer to buy them from RMM so I can get them before Christmas.
The stock driver is quite good unless you just want to go for max output. In the mid range modes the stock driver will be better.
If you want max output the Texas Avenger 30mm should be ready shortly. I have the PCB’s, just don’t have the parts and waiting for a few updates in narsil to release it. Or you can build it yourself as well, I am selling the PCB’s bare as well due to how much they cost from Oshpark.
Nope, you misunderstood me. I meant “usable” as in the hotspot size at distance. For a dedicated thrower, I would want no spill at all, so as not to hurt my night vision.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
This is great conversation, but I think we should keep the topic in mind. L2 and L6 mods.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
There is a tiny bit of spill in my L2 but it only interferes up close. I had to hold it above my head to ensure the white cowling from my boat didn’t light up while looking for markers and shorelines some few hundred meters ahead. Other than that it’s a beautiful beam that lights up just what you are pointing at. I wouldn’t call the beam in mine pencil thin, more like a shaft of light that has negligible spread all the way out.
I’ll see if I can get some decent beam shots tonight.
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
Since I don't have an L2, what are the common ways to bump up its power?
Do most folks do a driver swap to bump up the amps or mod the stock driver?
Can the stock emitter handle more power or should it be swapped out with a better one on a copper star?
I might buy an L2 just to check it out. I see the xpl-hi is an option, so I'll get that for sure. Maybe a 4 or 5 amp stock L2 will satisfy my needs, if not I can do more extensive mods. I don't want to get ahead of myself.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
So this is what I managed to get tonight.
Shoreline is 520 meters distant.
Trees are at 550 meters.
Just the beam.
Edit: Forgot to mention the camera settings. Canon EOS 30D, ISO 1600, f4 at 1 sec. exposure.
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
Cool, what is the condition of the flashlight, stock xpl-hi?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Wellp, with a different head, you can fit a deep-dish reflector (shaped more like a champagne flute than a salad-bowl) to “capture” more light and aim it straight ahead vs just having it spill out.
It’s still parabolic, just a different section.
The spill can be measured as the cone from the focus (where the LED chip is) to the edge of the reflector. Light outside that cone hits the reflector and is focussed straight ahead. Light inside that cone travels unimpeded in a straight line outwards, diverging outward.
Make that cone smaller, and a higher percentage of light hits the reflector vs “spills” outside. Hence, the champagne-flute reflector.
Oh yeah, that’s why a reflex setup (LED mounted “backwards” on a stick) has an incredible beam and virtually zero spill, because pretty much everything hits the reflector and is focussed out the front. Lousy heat handling, though.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
No it’s a dedomed XP G2 S4 2B with a FET driver. Tried an XPL-HI, was nice but the dedomed S4 2B out throws it substantially and has a tighter beam. With XPL-HI V2 2C I got just under 900 meters. Getting 1050 meters with the S4 2B.
If you’re comfortable with a soldering iron here is the parts list:
Host
Driver
Led
Don’t forget to check the dedome box.
Edit: Clarity
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
Nice, that’s good info.
I’ve yet to try a FET driver due to unknown amp draw it might create. Did you measure the tail cap amp draw on your light?
Oh yeah, I assume your running one 26650 battery?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Yes with a fully charged Basen 4500 I got a surprising 4.9 amps at start. I was expecting the forward voltage of the led to keep it down around 4 amps. With that much current a wire bypass of the tail spring is recommended to keep the spring and switch from overheating. Again, not difficult if you can solder. There are threads here to show you the various methods members have come up with.
The most difficult part of the process for me was finding the right focus. You need to sand down the height of the centering ring a little to tighten up the beam profile for a dedomed led. How much is just trial and error. Order a few of these so you can try varying thicknesses. You can use a lux meter to help you tune the focus if you have one or just go outside and shine it into the sky. You can see the difference in the beam.
I see that the host and centering rings are out of stock at the moment but they will restock soon.
If you don’t like what it looks like on the wall, take it outside.
Do we have a list of the resistor mods that can be done to the L6 stock driver?
I’ve heard that adding an R120 on top of the 2 R082’s can bump the amp draw to 6.3 or so.
Also that an R100 bumps it up to over 7 amps.
Does this sound accurate?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Jason , i have installed R100 in my L6 , and i will post the amp draw in 2-3 days , when i receive my clamp meter .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
The maximum I measured is about 7.3 amps, with shorted resistor. Wouldn’t recommend it, smells from the driver compartment.
BLF Q8 Janus --- Emisar D4 RGBW --- Green Lantern and HAL 9000
6th Annual Light Contest Entry --- 7th Annual Light Contest Entry
Yes, I’ve heard that the R100 was pretty much like a direct short through the resistors. Also that the stock driver will not reach 8 amps, so a R120 or R140 are the better choices.
I found a good thread on L6 resistors, I’ll add the link here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/48713
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
The L6 SMO reflector is not available anymore? Anyone can help to confirm this?
As jdub said there were only 30-35 pieces.
You need to wait the second batch.
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
That is correct. Thankfully the first batch sold quickly enough that Simon agreed to produce a second batch. I will post an update when they are available.
When will the SMO reflector be available again?
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Man Scott, I don’t know if I’ve expressed this enough but those may be the most gorgeous L series builds out there. I can’t help but stare in awe!
I don’t know what it’d cost but a Titanium L6 would be freakishly spectacular!
Great theme friends! I am looking for my next modification and I have in sight a Convoy L2 with XP-G2 dedomed, but I interested ah move to the one L6 with XP-G2 dedomado … that interesting everything I read.
Thanks for sharing
I have one from Dale , which is making 439kcd if i remember correctly.
Personally , i would use dedomed xp-l v6 , throw won’t be over 350kcd but it will have 2k lumens too.
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Pretty sure the de-domed XP-L V6 won’t do 2000 lumens. Maybe 1600. Since the die is essentially an XM-L2 die it’s likely it would be doing good to make 330Kcd, but if every last trick is pulled it might fare a little better. Would be interesting to see how it stacked up huh?
About throw : http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1029159#comment-1029159 (325kcd using dedomed W2 emitter)
A comment from Mitko about Lumens : http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1030517#comment-1030517
If i understand right , there isn’t a big loss from dedoming the emitter . ( I haven’t tested it my self , xp-ls hate me when i try to dedome them )
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
There is a loss when de-doming, and many times you lose the entire emitter when trying.
And that is a quote on the new XP-L W2, not the V6. I’ve seen the W2 make 2000 lumens and a little, but the V6 won’t do it. The W2 is not so easy to acquire.
And, no offense to Mitko, but his numbers always are higher than anyone elses. I know, they said that about me for a long time, but if Mitko’s numbers are even higher than mine, after all the crap I’ve taken over my own high numbers, well…..
Mine are always lower
Not a very good thing when you’re into modding
I verified it once again with your L6 …
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Yeah I know the feeling! I do back flips and cartwheels, if the thing even (emits light) Turns ON!
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
So I’m about to pull the trigger on an L6. I’m going to get the full flashlight and swap in a XHP70 P2 1C and use the original XHP70 in something else.
Should I just go with RMM’s 30mm L6 driver? Is it hard to reprogram? And which 26650s? I’d prefer to buy them from RMM so I can get them before Christmas.
The stock driver is quite good unless you just want to go for max output. In the mid range modes the stock driver will be better.
If you want max output the Texas Avenger 30mm should be ready shortly. I have the PCB’s, just don’t have the parts and waiting for a few updates in narsil to release it. Or you can build it yourself as well, I am selling the PCB’s bare as well due to how much they cost from Oshpark.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
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