T_A, bout how long do you anticipate until they’re ready?

Also might need to ask you about some other drivers – I need one for my TR-J20 – 12x XM-L2, 3× 32650s, going for max output.

Well the PCB’s are ready now if you want to build it yourself. Not sure when I will have the funds to get the parts to build them myself.

Narsil works now, it could just use a few tweaks.

On the J20, what size driver is it setup for? Also, will you be wiring the LED’s in 3s4p?

The J20 has roughly a 46mm driver (maybe even exactly 46mm), and yeah I’d run the LEDs in 3S4P.

I don’t really want to build the driver myself. Too much going on and I’m still getting used to the loss of my near vision. Getting old sucks.

Well thats great then, you can simply use the SRK drivers for it. You would need to use the LDO version of the SRK driver which I do not have any PCB’s for though.

There are other SRK drivers as well naturally but you need to make sure thay have an LDO.

I will see what parts I have left, been meaning to go through them. I think I have enough laying around to put together 1 or 2 drivers.

Maukka already has dibs on the first one, I will see if I have enough parts for a second. You can keep an eye on the thread in my sig.

Would it be possible to piggyback/bypass the stock driver on either the L6 or the J20? Might could use a 17mm driver then, but I have no clue if it needs heatsinking.

Yeah, you could do that as well, if you do not use the 7135’s on the L6 then it doesn’t need much heat sinking at all but that kind of defeats the purpose.

With the J20 you could not use 7135’s anyways so it would not really matter and you could piggyback a 17mm on it if you wanted.

You could of course piggyback an 17mm FET driver into the L6, run the top binned XHP-70 over 7000 lumens if you so desired. Just use an e-switch compatible firmware, like TK’s ramping variant, and you’re good to go. Richard also has e-switch FET drivers. There’s all kinds of options, including Richards 27.5mm Mtn Max that fits in the L6. Might be tough soldering the switch wires if your near vision is a problem.

Stacking an R140 resistor on the existing resistors of the stock L6 driver will get you up in the 4000 lumens range and not make excessive heat, if you could live with that. You wouldn’t even have to remove the driver completely.

The TR-J20 is a big capable light, but if you’re really going to push lumens output you’ll probably need some heat sinking as the stock light doesn’t transfer heat well from the emitter shelf area down into the heavily finned area in the lower head. Mine’s doing 15,000 lumens on 4 of the 9V MT-G2’s with an FET driver. I have about a 1/4” thick plate as a riser on top of the emitter shelf, and I made a heat sink to fill the head above the driver. Without this heat sink, it’d heat up pretty fast.

One key to the TR-J20 running max is to use TrustFire 32650’s, they’re the top output cell in the category that I’ve found.

Why the LDO in the TR-J20 TA? It’s a tail clicky light, nothing special there.

The LDO is because the J20 is running 3S batteries, it will fry the MCU is you don’t knock the voltage down.

A zener would also work but the LDO is more reliable and only costs and extra .70 cents. Well worth the cost IMHO.

Plus a 5V LDO will have higher drive voltage for the FET and thus lower resistance over a 4.3V zener.

So if I built the FET driver with an LDO for my TR-J20 and replaced the zener modified FET driver it would do more than 15,000 lumens?

Edit: That’s actually a bit of a trick question, because I’ve run a 9V MT-G2 in direct drive with no driver at all and I know what it’s limits are….

It is impossible to say without trying it but it should have slightly less resistance. Weather that reduced resistance is enough to net you a noticeable increase in performance can only be seen by testing it.

Although that said, it is not worth the effort to swap drivers for sure, the difference would be very minor.

The LDO vs zener only effects the MCU. It does give a higher drive voltage to the FET but in the case of the sir800 that is a fairly minor reduction in resistance. Now on lesser FET’s it can be a fairly large factor.

Stuff came in today. Some resistors and emitters from DigiKey and yesterday the SMO L6 reflector from Simon.

Note to self: check orientation of wires on emitter before taking apart.

Did the R120 resistor mod and installed the SMO. Couldn’t get over the Clover in the hot spot and put the OP reflector back. Need to get outside with it and get a better idea of the capabilities of the OP and maybe revisit the SMO. But it is certainly brighter with the resistor mod. Topping of the Keeps to see what the current draw is.

Hey all,

Has anyone tried the following? L6 with XPL HI V2 or V3 and SMO reflector? If so can you please give me your Lux numbers?

Thanks

vestureofblood wrote:

Hey all,

Has anyone tried the following? L6 with XPL HI V2 or V3 and SMO reflector? If so can you please give me your Lux numbers?

Thanks

I have a L6 with dded W2 emitter and a fed dd driver, 335k at 6.3 amps, li 26650 , arround 2k lumens

The same but with L2 is 280k kcds( its actualy a dded V6 1A )

L6 is a much better overall option since it has a side button

Those warmer 5000k – HI tints tent to burn out kinda wierd and sometimes fast when harly overdriven…i dunno if its just my luck, noone shared a simmilar experience

However i have abs no issues badly overdiving dded XPL emitters

Mitko wrote:

vestureofblood wrote:

Hey all,

Has anyone tried the following? L6 with XPL HI V2 or V3 and SMO reflector? If so can you please give me your Lux numbers?

Thanks

I have a L6 with dded W2 emitter and a fed dd driver, 335k at 6.3 amps, li 26650 , arround 2k lumens

The same but with L2 is 280k kcds( its actualy a dded V6 1A )

L6 is a much better overall option since it has a side button

Those warmer 5000k – HI tints tent to burn out kinda wierd and sometimes fast when harly overdriven…i dunno if its just my luck, noone shared a simmilar experience

However i have abs no issues badly overdiving dded XPL emitters

Thanks. I would be very curious to hear what others are getting for drive current on the XPL HIs as well. I just ordered some of the V3 3? tints and would prefer not to kill them

Indeed.
Sometimes they just burn out without any warning, sometimes they start burning near the bond wires

I have not found any V3’s myself but I have had good luck with V2 XP-L HI’s on any of my high drain cells. Even have one in a D01 with 3P 30Q’s that is doing a bit over 6A without an issue. I think that one came form IOS, V2 3C?

I will be putting a V2 1A through the ringer before long to see how it does, hopefully it doesn’t pop but these LED’s with bond wires never seem to survive the testing.

My L6 has a sliced XHP-50 4500K 90CRI. The slicing was done very carefully as far down as possible. It worked wonders! Obviously more throw, but also it mostly fixed the typical Cree problem of yellow spot. Now only the corona is still a bit yellow, spot and spill are basically the same.
Brightness ist much lower of course, maybe 2000 otf lumens.

No, I want a nice smooth beam,

I was sorting out my modding stuff today and found out that i have those L2 leftovers…..

Considering the fact that i made them usualy 2s ones …well, i`ve modded alot obviously

Is that 26 L2 single cell tubes?

Selling them? China may be closed for the new year but Mitko has inventory.

Are these single cell tubes or extensions ?

I’m interested too in single cell tube

They are even more, i have more in the garage too..need some Dale? Will be free for you ofc- just cover the shipping, you did a great community and developing/review BLF work for all of us.

George they are extentions, i didnt knew about their ammount till today…was quite a mess in here so i `ve decided to put an order in my stuff.

Wow! Very generous offer Mitko, I appreciate it. I would like to get some from you to be able to help out some folks here in a pinch to get a tube, wondering if I could convert the extension to work as a single cell tube? Gotta look at that again…

I don’t even seem to have an L2 these days! Waiting on Simon to get geared up again…

I guess let me know how many you’re willing to part with and PM me on a price to make it all work. Thank you!

PM sent
No worries m8, just keep that spirit of your high
PPl like you made that place as it is now.

I see y’all use that m8 for “mate” and every single time my beautiful baked Solarforce M8 comes to mind with it’s shiny finned copper pill from Bucket. Man I love that light!

SBT-70 in my convoy L6

!!