Review: itp A3 eos upgraded

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fran82
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Review: itp A3 eos upgraded

for submission in the Reviews forum

First say it's my first purchase from Lightake. At first I was a bit pissed off that I thought could not be trusted, but see how fast and serious they are, I strongly recommend Lightake the same way I recommend sites like DealExtreme. 100% legit, serious people and fast. They have a good service when managing the order management to time. The Customer Service I have not tried.

http://www.lightake.com/detail.do/sku.iTP_A3_EOS_Cree_XP_E_Q5_3_Mode_80_Lumen_LED_Flashlight_Gray_%28Upgrade_Edition%29-27576

I bought it in natural gray color and is the upgraded version (the three modes, there is a non-upgraded from a single mode that is even smaller and cheaper).
Costs $ 21.08, but using the coupon FLASHLIGHT I paid $ 20.03 (approximately EUR 15.47) with free tracking number.

Paid: August 8 (Sunday)
Waiting Supplier: August 9 (Monday)
Ready to send: August 10 (Tuesday)
HKP office Delivered: August 11 (Wednesday). That day I receive tracking number
Left HK: August 13 (Friday)
He comes home: August 18 (Wednesday). That slow Post suckers in my Country

Well one last note. The envelope where they send. Look at the picture, look at the color of the envelope and see the stickers on the top left is not it reminds you to another site?. Well judge for yourselves.





<<EXTERNAL DESING>>

Well start with the way we receive it. The very nice and neat little box, inside the flashlight tucked under pressure in the plastic, includes bag with two spare orings and manual in English.




Then out of the box, and nothing, I faint. It's the more cute that I have had. Smaller and lighter than the Black Cat can say that the chain and the keyring is not like the early versions, that was a bit shabby. It's the same keyring than that in the A1 and A2. Strong, beautiful, luxurious, robust, but heavy. The whole chain + keychain flashlight weighs more than the flashlight itself .... if you're a weight freak, or you're concerned about weight, you must remove it and put another or to none. I'll leave it like that ... think "luxury."




Includes a clip in black, which can be removed without problems. Apparently not appear to be weak, as is said by some forums. The new version maratac AAA "copper" bring another spare clip.



Now the torch itself. I have no words. This is my first love. It has a high quality finish (better than any Romisen, xxxFire, etc ...). However itp is still a Chinese manufacturer, but it seems that worry waaaaay to do things well. Just say the care with which it comes in the box. In the crystal there are no signs / fingerprints (as in the other Chinese). There is no dust, dirt, debris machining. NOTHING. That's incredible. I think latex gloves at the factory to not leave fingerprints, sweat, dirt ......

Aluminium almost certainly HA III. There is no way to scratch ........

In these photos compare it to other girls:











<<INTERNAL DESING>>

Highlighting the high quality of the threads. Comes with o-ring lubricated and well lubricated threads. Why not lubricated with but does not smell or oil or petroleum jelly. It seems a specific product for that purpose, quality, we ... (I have to find out what and where to buy)




The interior of the tube is machined without irregularities. In the background is the spring of good quality (can change).



Inside the head, we have more high-quality threads and the plate of the driver. It seems of good quality, has 2 holes to insert a tool and loosen it, but as I read, the first version had the dropin stuck with glue to the head. I will not try to disarm him.

<<LED, Optics and DRIVER>>

Declares use a Cree XP-E Q5. Apparently it is. 100% sure it is XP-E, the bin do not know (I think it is Q5) and die I think it's EZ-900. It is perfectly focused, has a sort of bracket that holds it by the four faces and focuses on the center of the reflector.



The reflector is an orange peel (OP), without signs of dust or dirt. The front glass is glass and seems to have an o-ring.

The driver is the weak point, because it keeps the LED "under-driven", ie does not give all the food you can eat. I guess they do to increase the life of the LED (what a nonsense!) And have a great runtime. The only way to take maximum advantage of the LED is using 10 440, which makes DD but retains the modes.

It has 3 modes of memory (good memory lasts 4 seconds). The sequence is MED-LOW-HIGH. Officially, using alkaline batteries or Ni-Mh has these lumens and runtimes:

MED - 18 lumens - 4 hours
LOW - 1.5 lumens - 50 hours
HIGH - 80 lumens - 55 minutes

Officially, the driver holds between 0.8 and 3.0 volts. Unofficially hold up to 4.2 volts. You can use 10 440 but the manufacturer's advice.

And apparently, the new ones are bringing a new driver, the same as the A1 and A2 with a high frequency of PWM is not seen. The first version was the low-frequency PWM and was easily visible. In the new no.

Also some new modes have the sequence changed to LOW-MED-HIGH. (Not mine, I prefer to MED-LOW-HIGH)




<<BEAMSHOTS, CONSUMPTION and Runtime>>

The comparison will be with the XP-E TrustFire F23, which carries an LED-e Q3 supercharged xp .... Both with alkaline. The itp always in the left. At 30 centimeters from the wall.

HIGH mode. The itp beats the F23. Itp can say that has less throw than the F23, but more flood.



LOW mode. Win the F23, but if we want something we can put in MED itp which has twice the F23 in LOW.



At medium distances (3-4 meters from the wall).




Consumption and runtimes with alkaline:

MED - 0.28 A - 2 hours and 30 minutes up to 50% - 3 hours 40 minutes to 0%
LOW - 0,09 A - I did not runtime LOW
HIGH - 0.85 A - 30 minutes up to 50% - 50 minutes to 0%

Now with 10 440, although I have not tried it, reading CPF can draw the conclusion that 10 440 is a pocket rocket. With 10 440 MED mode is stronger than Ni-MH HIGH. With so we have a MED of about 90-100 lumens for 50 minutes and a TURBO mode of 190-200 lumens for 10 minutes, but we should not take it into TURBO (high) over 1 minute or we load the A3 or battery 10 440.

Clarify that do not serve the 10 440 being protected by 2mm longer than the unprotected.



<<Summary>>

I have no words. In quality, size, power, finish, weight and value for money, is the best in the AAA format.
It becomes my current EDC, replacing my heavy F23. It's pounded in every aspect. Especially in the weight (4 times less) and size (just over half). I also love TURBO mode.

POSITIVE:
- Small size, light weight
- Quality of finishes, machining, packaged
- Softness of the threads
- Quality keychain
- Power and runtimes with alkaline
- But even the possibility of turning on a flashlight using 10 440 TURBO, ie 10 440, the mode becomes HIGH MED, and HIGH mode becomes TURBO

NEGATIVE:
- The price could be lower, but still okay
- The keychain though good, is a bit heavy (it weighs more than the flashlight)
- Unable to use 10 440 Protected (not fit)
- No Strobe mode (but who cares!)

This post/thread "may" contain referrals, a little contribution I "earn" in form of points ONLY if you buy the item. The purpose is to redeem items using the points and then making reviews of them in the forums to shar

Edited by: sb56637 on 08/26/2014 - 17:13
midieval10
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How does your mode switching work? From all the reviews, it seems like it goes from med->low->high. Mine actually goes from low->med->high. I can't see the PWM or hear any buzzing sounds that people have been talking about. I emailed goinggear.com and they said the new ITPs have the new modes of low->med->high.

fran82
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No, mine is MED-LOW-HIGH

 

The only A3 that are coming with new circuitry (HIGH frecuency PWM and modeorder as LOW-MED-HIGH) are only the maratac AAA Cu version.

 

The A1 and A2, have the new circuitry from the begining.

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midieval10
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Mine also comes with the keychain from the A1 like yours.

fran82
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OK, perhaps new driver boards are coming with high frec PWM but continues having modes as MED-LO-HIGH.

Yours is alu or SS?

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midieval10
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fishinfool
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I also have the one from Going Gear and it's on one of my keychains.  It also starts in Med then Low then Hi but that doesn't bother me.  I did change the keychain to something more convenient but all in all, it is a wonderful, bright and tiny little torch.  And if it goes on sale somewhere, I will buy a few to give away as gifts.

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

midieval10
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fishinfool wrote:

I also have the one from Going Gear and it's on one of my keychains.  It also starts in Med then Low then Hi but that doesn't bother me.  I did change the keychain to something more convenient but all in all, it is a wonderful, bright and tiny little torch.  And if it goes on sale somewhere, I will buy a few to give away as gifts.

Can you see the PWM on low and med?

fishinfool
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I actually had to look up PWM. Embarassed 

Anyway, I don't notice anything other than a steady low or steady medium light. 

So I guess iTP A3 EOS' has GOOD PWM right?

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

midieval10
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When you look at the light output, do you notice any flickering (sort of like strobe but very subtle)?

fishinfool
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Not at all.  Do you?

 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

midieval10
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Nope. Was wondering because the older models had that effect.

fishinfool
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Good for us we have the newer 'upgraded' ones. Smile

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

midieval10
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I'm not really liking my low->med->high. I would rather have it start in med first.

fishinfool
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I myself would prefer high-med-low.

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

midieval10
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I have a 10440 in mine because it weighs 4 grams less than alkaline/NIMH. On high, it's tremendously bright and gets hot within seconds. Med seems to be ok. If I were using an alkaline/NIMH, I would also like it to be high-med-low.

fishinfool
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I don't have any 10440's yet so high using a nimh would be perfect for me.  But as soon as I do get me some 10440's then I'll probably be happy that mine starts out in medium.

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

midieval10
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I'm using the blue Trustfire 10440 http://www.buyincoins.com/trustfire-10440-aaa-3-7v-600mah-rechargeable-l...

They fit perfectly.

fishinfool
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Thanks for the link midieval10!

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

brted
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I don't notice the PWM on mine unless I wave my hand in front of it and I get a sort of strobe effect. Mine is MLH. Honestly, I'd rather have LH. Maybe HL. If I want M, I can put in a AAA battery. Fran82, the 10440 is impressive. I wouldn't use for that long at a time though. The A3 is great. I carry one every day and gave away a handful of them at Christmas.

midieval10
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fishinfool wrote:

Thanks for the link midieval10!

No problem! You will be amazed at how bright that little light is with a 10440. Just don't run it for too long on high or you won't be impressed with no light coming out of it Tongue out

fran82
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I have done the review, but excuse me because English is not my natal language. I used google translate.

in this moment I am correcting errors and bad photo links!

 

EDIT: some translating error corrected, but the photo links cant be repeared...

However, the original link is here:

 

http://www.forolinternas.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=762

 

You can click in the photos to size up in that link

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phlowcus
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Thanks for your review fran82, makes me want that itp even more. Smile

 

Btw I think you had some bad luck with your F23, mine is almost as bright as some R5s I have while drawing only 0,8A (10440). I'm quite sure I got a real Q5/R2.

fran82
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phlowcus wrote:

Thanks for your review fran82, makes me want that itp even more. Smile

 

Btw I think you had some bad luck with your F23, mine is almost as bright as some R5s I have while drawing only 0,8A (10440). I'm quite sure I got a real Q5/R2.

 

I have 2 F23, and both are less bright than the A3. OR maybe, my A3 is a exceptional and unique unit that produces more light than other A3´s

 

Both of my F23 draw 1,2A on HIGH on 10440, then decreasing down to 0,7A continuos. With Ni-Mh draws 1,3A.

 

Ah, the F23 LED is really a Q3, not a R2

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phlowcus
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fran82 wrote:

Ah, the F23 LED is really a Q3, not a R2

As I said, not on mine. Maybe it's a typical case of 'later badge gets inferior emitter'. I ordered mine the first days it landed on DX.

fran82
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Mines are from January and February respectively

AH!!!

I forgot to say that the manufacturer of the F23 offers this light with different emitters and different drivers:

 

Emitters: From xpe Q3 to xpg R5

Drivers: from single mode, 3 mode, to 5 mode

 

Also in ALL online shops that sells the F23, claims Q3 LED except DX, which claims R2 and is not

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Nautic
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KD has a Trustfire F23, a AAA with a Q3

DX does not seem to have this light. They have a F22, which is a AA R2

 

Could you give us a link phlowcus?

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

phlowcus
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http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.24291

 

I was planning on modding mine with an xp-e q5 warmwhite anyways, if that makes it brighter it was indeed a q3. Smile

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Oh, they call it EF23.

 

Did I hear you say its a Q3 or not a R2?

Cheap quality is good - Expensive crap isn´t

phlowcus
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Nautic wrote:

Did I hear you say its a Q3 or not a R2?

I think it was a plain and clear sentence, I didn't use any irony or metaphers if that helps.

 

EDIT: Erm, wait. Maybe it wasn't too clear after all: I have not done this test yet. Sorry Nautic.

agenthex
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You can't tell from just looking it at whether it's Q3 or R2 or whatever. You need to measure efficacy which is not easy.

Reading this makes you smarter: http://lesswrong.com/

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